Necessity knows no commandment. Or does it? If you're in a real predicament, you won't bother with regulations, directives and paragraphs. Who can blame them? Especially when life and limb are at stake. Sure, distress at sea is one thing, but what do I do if the engine goes on strike or the steering gear suddenly gives up the ghost? Somehow get out of the fairway, away from the shallows and drop anchor? If I can, yes. And if not? Anyone drifting in the fairway unable to manoeuvre should warn other shipping in their own interest. The only question is how?
How to attract attention
If you have nothing on board, you will try to do this by repeatedly raising and lowering your arms outstretched to the side. Of course, this only works if the other boats or ships are in the immediate vicinity. In this case, it may also help to sound the horn and flash (position lanterns). If you have one, you can use hand flares or flares to draw attention to your plight. However, because looking away and listening are unfortunately widespread nowadays, even this does not always work. Radios and telephones are clearly better in this respect.
Radio and mobile phones are the first choice
The emergency call channels 16 or 70 DSC (Digital Selective Calling, which is mandatory for modern radios and is usually linked to a chart plotter, automatically forwards the emergency call with exact position information to the relevant rescue centre at the touch of a button), channel 10 on inland waterway radio or Nautical Information Radio (NIF) ensure that you are always heard.
German North Sea and Baltic Sea coast
What other options there are for making an emergency call: Provided your mobile phone has a network and a charged battery, you can reach the Bremen Maritime Rescue Coordination Centre (MRCC) of the German Maritime Search and Rescue Service (DGzRS) on the German North Sea and Baltic Sea coasts by calling 124 124.
Inland waters
On inland waterways, people seeking help dial 112 or 110 and the emergency call centre then informs - depending on the location and situation - the waterway police, fire brigade, water and shipping authority, DLRG or, if necessary, the Red Cross.
Adriatic and Balearic Islands
When dialling an emergency number on a mobile phone, the location service is activated automatically. The private "SeaHelp" breakdown service is available to members and those who want to become members via a 24-hour hotline on 0 03 85-919 112 112 (Adriatic) or 00 800-112 00 112 (Balearic and Baltic).
The DGzRS
The DGzRS press office would like to say the following to all those who believe that they can only call the DGzRS when it is a matter of "bare survival": "We are always there as soon as the skipper needs assistance. In principle, it is up to the skipper to decide whether and what kind of help he needs. It is important for us to make it clear that the DGzRS not only helps in an emergency at sea, but also when technical assistance or towage assistance is required, and that rescue and assistance by DGzRS units (available via VHF channel 16) is always free of charge, regardless of the person or cause. As a rule, however, the DGzRS asks for a donation, as all of its work is financed exclusively by voluntary contributions.
Well insured?
Insurers often bear these costs because major damage to the vehicle has been averted. Everyone should clarify this question with their insurance company in good time. Rescue from distress at sea is of course free of charge."
On the subject of insurance: Anyone who believes that they are adequately covered by liability insurance should bear in mind that their liability does not cover the damage to their own boat. And certainly not the costs of salvage and/or wreck removal. If you are not adequately insured, you may lose your house and yard. This is why hull insurance that covers salvage and wreck removal costs makes sense in any case. But be careful, hull insurance naturally only pays out if there is an insured loss event. If the skipper is "grossly negligent", he must not only bear the damage to his own boat, but also the salvage costs.
At this point, just this much in advance: towing, for a long time a matter of course among seafarers and boaters, for which you thank them with a "Buddel Köm" (high German: schnapps) or a meal in a harbour restaurant, can under certain circumstances lead to a tangible legal dispute. According to Section 27 (1) of the German Maritime Traffic Regulations (SeeSchStrO), only vessels that have the necessary equipment and whose manoeuvrability is guaranteed when towing or pushing are allowed to tow or push. The exception to this rule is not stipulated anywhere: in an emergency, a pleasure craft may (and should!) of course "tow" another, but only to the nearest harbour or berth.
Motor sport vessels towing other recreational craft, says § 2 Para. 1 No. 7 of the SeeSchStO, are not considered to be towing power-driven craft within the meaning of the Collision Prevention Regulations (KVR). This means that they must comply with the rules for avoiding other vessels, but are therefore not bound by the lights prescribed in Rule 24 of the COLREGs.
Whether and how the towed boat must be "manned" is not regulated. A "crew" only makes sense if it can keep the disabled vessel on course using its steering gear. And when mooring, of course. Otherwise, you are better off on the manoeuvrable, towed boat. Better safe than sorry! In any case, the skipper of the "tugboat" is always responsible, whose insurance will be asked to pay in the event of a "ramming".
If, despite all the risks that can be eliminated relatively quickly with a letter or binding agreements between witnesses, you are not one of those who look the other way and want to help the boater in distress, there are a few practical things you should bear in mind:
Towing: how it works
If you want to be taken on the famous hook (i.e. towed), stand in the cockpit or, even better, on the foredeck, clearly visible to potential helpers, and swing the towline held ready in bays.
Approach slowly from astern The "tug" approaches the unmanoeuvrable boat as slowly as possible, but with rudder action from astern to leeward (the direction in which the wind is blowing) or against the current.
Once at the same height, he stops and hands over or takes over the towline. It goes without saying that sufficient fenders must be deployed on both boats.
Caution: Only throw the towline if a hand-over-hand transfer alongside is not possible (shallow water, unclean bottom). It is then important that the tug approaches the distressed vessel with the bow first. The reason: If the line is cast too short, it can get caught in the propeller and render the tug unmanoeuvrable. If you want to be on the safe side in this respect, have a buoyant polypropylene towline ready. A line made of polyamide is better. According to the manufacturer, this mooring line, which is also recommended as a towing line, has a significantly higher breaking load, is extremely abrasion-resistant and highly elastic and can therefore also be used in extreme situations without a shock absorber. If the line is to be used exclusively for towing, it is advisable to attach a stainless steel or plastic thimble to one end (splicing or eyebands) to make it easier to attach.
As not every pleasure craft has a solid water ski towing eye and cleats or bollards are rarely positioned amidships, it makes sense to run the towing line over a Hahnepot. Equipped with a sturdy towing eye, the Hahnepot distributes the towing load over two (or more) points and thus relieves the load on the cleats or bollards at the stern or bow. In addition, the towed boat runs better behind a Hahnepot. This means that it does not constantly sheer off, but floats exactly in the keel line of the tug. However, the prerequisite for this is that the towing lines of the Hahnepot are the same length.
It is important to start slowly when towing a heavy boat (especially when free-towing). This means that the towline does not have to absorb the full pulling force abruptly. If only a round turn is applied to the line when towing (cross strokes and head strokes can come later), the line can be slackened if necessary, thus avoiding over-hard jerking. An elastic line also acts as an additional shock absorber. And that's a good thing, because cleats and bollards are not always sufficiently dimensioned and have a large underlay. If you are willing and able, you can therefore additionally secure the towline to the anchor winch.
The diameter of the towline depends on the weight of the boat being towed and the material of the line. Up to 2,000 kg displacement, 14 mm is recommended; for boats weighing around 5,000 kg, you are on the safe side with a 16 mm thick line. The crux of the matter is that the existing cleats and bollards are often one size too small for the appropriate lines. When it comes to the length of the towline, the motto is "the longer, the better". A long line acts as a shock absorber and increases reaction time. And you need this if the towed boat "starts an overtaking manoeuvre" in front of a moving sea (which should be avoided if possible). This means that in bad weather, the length of the towline must be adapted to the visibility conditions and the swell.
Ideally, both boats should be either in the wave trough or on the wave crest at the same time. You don't always manage to do this perfectly, but it's worth a try. And almost synchronised is always better than completely out of step. In the event that something goes wrong, you should always have a suitable (large and sharp) knife or a small axe to hand. The towing speed must not be too high so that the material is not overstressed and the tractor and its trailer are on the safe side.
Speed is of the essence when towing
The towing speed must not exceed the theoretical hull speed of the towed boat. As a reminder: Hull speed in kn = 2.43 x root of the length of the waterline (LWL). Example: 7 m LWL = 6.4 kn.
Longitudinal towing
Longitudinal towing: What does not work in rough seas is the better solution in narrow fairways and when mooring, but may also be expressly prohibited (§ 27 Para. 3 SeeSchStrO). Why the better solution?
The "packet" is more compact than the tug and tow and is therefore easier to manoeuvre in confined spaces. It is important that the boats are well fendered. The fenders have to absorb thrust forces and should therefore be thick and stable. Do you know in which direction your propeller turns when travelling forwards? Usually more to the left than to the right. If you know, the boat to be towed is taken on the side towards which the propeller is turning. So, as a rule, on the port side. For boats with twin engines and counter-rotating propellers, the preferred side is the side on which the steering position of the "tug" is located. This ensures a clear view of the distressed vessel. The fore and aft lines are sufficient for mooring as a cross connection (breast line).
A front spring absorbs the thrust in the direction of travel. When stopping and manoeuvring in reverse, the forces act on a stern spring. In any case, the lines must be as rigid as possible. If this is not done properly, the boats can shift against each other - which rarely happens without nasty scratches on the hulls of those involved.
If everything is correct, the towed unit is relatively easy to manoeuvre: If you have the boat to be towed on your port side, a little more throttle will make the "double pack" turn to this side; if the throttle is taken away, disengaged or briefly stopped, the entire pack will turn to starboard. This works best if the tug is moored as close as possible to the stern of the boat being towed. Ideally a short distance behind the damaged boat. Positioned far aft, its propeller is much better exposed to the water than further forward.
Towing several boats
If more than one boat needs to be towed (e.g. after a sailing regatta), not everyone can simply tie up to the boat in front, because the lines and cleats of the first boat would have to absorb the pulling force of the entire tow. This may or may not work. It is better, because it is safer, to have a long, strong centre line to which the individual (smaller) boats alternately moor to the right and left with a stopper bar. The heavy boats should always be right at the front! To keep them close to the towline, the oars of the towed boats should be set to shear (keep clear of the towline) if possible.
Once at the destination, the tug must be informed in good time by radio, telephone or shouting when the towline on the towed boat is cast off. This is the only way he can prepare himself and his engine for the sudden release and keep the line clear of his propeller. The easiest way to do this is when the gearbox is disengaged. If the towing connection on the tug is released, the line must be thrown far enough aft so that it does not end up in the propeller.
