- Check the side outlets before craning
- The correct belt position when craning
- Paint antifouling under the crane
- Deploying lines and fenders
- Hot strop, hook and traverse
- Lowering the boat
- Liability for damage
- Operate the crane yourself
- Do not allow any hectic at the crane
- FAQ: Three important questions about the crane appointment
For many owners, hoisting is one of the most delicate moments of the season. At the latest when your own boat is hanging freely in the straps, your pulse starts to rise. It is often not the actual lifting that causes problems, but the preparation.
Some owners lack the routine. After all, most of them only crane once or twice a year, in spring and autumn. This makes it all the more important to know the crucial points in advance and to work through them on site without rushing.
Larger boats are usually lowered into or taken out of the water by crane or travel lift. On many inland waterways and with trailer boats, however, craning is almost part of everyday life. Beginners in particular often wonder what really matters. The good news is that proper preparation significantly reduces the risk.
Check before the crane appointment
- Have all onboard outlets and sea valves been checked?
- Have encoders, log encoders or plugs been reinserted?
- Is the belt position known or marked?
- Are fenders and mooring lines ready?
- Is it clear how the boat is checked for leaks after launching?
Check the side outlets before craning
Before the boat goes into the water, all valves should be checked. They must be closed and the connected hoses also deserve a look. Are they still flexible, do they look intact and do they sit neatly on the connection? Two hose clamps are the safe solution here.
Transducers can also become a nasty trap. If they have been removed during the winter, for example for cleaning or because they should not be painted with antifouling, they must be put back in correctly before the crane appointment.
It is also important to check the boat immediately after launching. As long as the boat is still in the harness, the valves, transducer, stuffing box of a shaft system and the sealing sleeve of a saildrive should be checked quickly. A valve plan on board will help you not to forget any points. If a leak is discovered during this phase, the boat can be raised again immediately.
The correct belt position when craning
One of the most important questions before lifting is: Where should the straps be positioned? Crane markings are the best help here. If you don't have any markings, you can ask the boatyard or use boats of the same design as a guide. Bulkheads below deck are also often a good guide, as the hull is more resilient there.
The rear strap must run free of the saildrive or shaft system. The front strap should sit far enough aft so that it cannot slip out forwards. If there are no reliable empirical values, only careful lifting and gradual repositioning will help.
A boat that is hanging askew must never be lifted far. Once it starts to slip, it is almost impossible to control. For this reason, the straps should be secured against slipping when trying out and even more so when actually hoisting. If you regularly work with the same harness, you will save time later if the correct position is permanently marked.
Paint antifouling under the crane
A small amount of antifouling should be ready to hand at the crane appointment. The keel sole and bearing surfaces often cannot be completely painted during winter storage. These areas can then be repainted when the boat is hanging in the straps.
This is not ideal. The substrate is often not perfectly prepared, and wet paint directly before the water is added is also not ideal. Nevertheless, it is usually better than leaving the areas completely unprotected. The only important thing is to have materials and tools ready and to avoid unnecessary delays. Furthermore, work should only be carried out under a suspended load if the boat is securely and stably moored.
Deploying lines and fenders
Preparation should be the same as before a mooring manoeuvre. Fender out, mooring lines clear, responsibilities clarified. There should be at least four fenders on the side where the boat is moored under the crane.
The lines must also be long enough. They must be easy to grip even if the boat is already raised or hangs low when lowered. One person should lead a line at the bow and another at the stern. This helps to prevent uncontrolled rocking or turning, especially in windy conditions.
Hot strop, hook and traverse
How the boat is attached to the crane has a major influence on stability and load. Four-point or scissor lifting beams are ideal. They keep the straps largely vertical and distribute the load favourably. Craning with a travel lift is similarly relaxed.
However, caution is advised with smaller boats. If the distance between the straps is too large, boats can slip between the straps more easily. The belt position must then be secured particularly carefully.
A crossbeam is often a good solution for smaller boats, as long as it is really used transversely and not lengthways to the boat. Craning directly on a single hook is more problematic. This significantly increases the load on the hull and the straps must be secured particularly well. Hot slings are only suitable for this if they have been provided by the shipyard and the attachment points have been reinforced accordingly. In addition, the load in the boat must be evenly distributed so that it does not hang heavily forward or aft.
Lowering the boat
When lowering the boat onto a trailer, not every centimetre has to fit immediately. It is often quicker to manoeuvre the trailer by hand just before setting it down than to swivel the boat in with millimetre precision using the crane.
With double-axle trailers, manoeuvring can be made easier if the front wheel is set so that one of the two axles is relieved. The reason: on tight bends, the axles work against each other due to their different radii of gyration. This creates a lot of friction and makes manoeuvring difficult.
Liability for damage
If the manoeuvre is carried out by trained personnel or a crane company, the responsibility in the event of damage usually lies with them. Nevertheless, it makes sense to inform your own insurer immediately. This can be important if the crane company only reimburses the current value and there is a gap.
Owners should also check the general terms and conditions of the crane company, the harbour operator or the association. Recourse claims may be limited or excluded there. Your own insurer should be familiar with precisely these points.
Operate the crane yourself
On some inland waterways or in the case of smaller installations, owners have to crane themselves. In such cases, they are generally liable for damage to their own boat, and sometimes also for damage to the crane. It should therefore be checked beforehand whether hull and liability insurance covers such cases.
Anyone operating a crane themselves should definitely have the system explained to them. Of course, the maximum authorised load must not be exceeded. The following applies when operating the crane: start slowly, never get hectic and, if possible, only activate one function at a time. A boat should also never be lifted higher than necessary. The further it is from the ground, the more difficult it will be to control using auxiliary lines.
Do not allow any hectic at the crane
Pressure quickly builds up on busy crane dates. The next people are waiting behind, the schedule is tight and suddenly everything has to go faster. This is precisely the moment when mistakes occur.
Therefore, do not accept external pressure. The boat should not be removed from the harness immediately after being lowered into the water. A quick leak check should be carried out first. Then the next step. Having a valve plan on board saves time and gives you peace of mind. If damage does occur over the winter, the boat can be taken out of the water immediately while still in the harness.
FAQ: Three important questions about the crane appointment
Who is liable for damage when craning?
If the manoeuvre is carried out by the crane company or trained port personnel, this is usually also where liability is to be sought. Nevertheless, your own insurer should be informed immediately.
When should the belts be removed?
Not immediately after launching. It makes sense to carry out a brief inspection while the boat is still in the harness. This allows you to recognise possible leaks immediately.
What is particularly important for smaller boats?
Above all, the correct strap guidance and securing against slipping. With a small boat and large belt spacing, there is an increased risk of the boat hanging unfavourably or slipping between the belts.
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Lars Bolle
Chief Editor Digital
