Harbour manoeuvresWhat you should bear in mind when mooring and casting off

Christian Tiedt

 · 09.05.2021

Harbour manoeuvres: What you should bear in mind when mooring and casting offPhoto: Christian Tiedt
For many skippers, harbour manoeuvres are a source of stress. With our illustrated guide, we aim to help you stay calm: what you need to know and be able to do when mooring and unmooring

Throwing a line

1 Unroll the line neatly in loops in one hand
Photo: Christian Tiedt

As a general rule when throwing a line: the recipient will be pleased if they aren’t hit by a heavy bundle, but instead receive just one or two loops after a well-aimed throw. However, they’ll be even happier to have the line handed to them directly. Sometimes, though, throwing the line is unavoidable. That is why a long manoeuvring line, which can also be thrown, is part of the preparation for any harbour manoeuvre. Here’s how to do it: 1 Wind the line neatly into coils in one hand. 2 Then take two to three coils into your throwing hand, depending on the line’s thickness and your own strength. Let one loop drop to take a full swing. 3 Now fling the remaining loops towards the person you’re aiming for, 4 whilst quickly opening your hand with the coiled section facing the direction of the throw, 5 so that as much line as necessary can run out by itself.

Secure the cleat

Wrap the mooring line 180 degrees round the cleat. This usually provides sufficient friction. The taut end must lead away from the cleat. Otherwise, it may pinch the slack end (the line is also routed as shown here when it needs to be slackened).
Photo: Christian Tiedt

Turning round, figure-of-eight, bow tie: everyone on board should commit these three words to memory like a mantra. After all, any crew member may find themselves in the position of having to handle a mooring line during harbour manoeuvres. As cleats are fitted on most boats and at many jetties, it’s also important to know how to secure a line to them. Cleats work by friction. By tying figure-of-eight knots, you increase the length of the line over which friction acts. This is further enhanced by the sharp change of direction at the cleat’s horns. Here’s how to do it: 1 Wrap the mooring line 180 degrees round the cleat. This usually provides sufficient friction. The taut end must lead away from the cleat. Otherwise, it may pinch the slack end (as shown here, the line is also routed in this way when it needs to be eased). 2 After the first loop, wrap the loose end in figure-of-eight knots around the horns, repeating this until there is no tension left on the loose end 3; otherwise, the final clove hitch could become pinched. This is because the clove hitch is only intended to secure the figure-of-eight knots. 4 The overhand knot must be tied in a criss-cross pattern. This ensures that, at the end, all the figure-of-eights lie parallel on top of one another

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If the mooring line is run onto the slipway – which is handy later when casting off – one end is secured on board (either to a cleat or a bollard A). From there, the loose end runs under the railing onto shore and then back on board B. However, if the line is secured properly ashore, the same rule applies as on board: only as much as is necessary. In the picture above, far too many round turns and figure-of-eights have been tied onto the cleat C. If you already have a loop in the line, pull it through the cleat and then lay it over the top D.

Keen eye

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Photo: Christian Tiedt

To moor to a post, simply loop an eye over it or wrap the mooring line around it loosely. However, if the post does not have a hook, the line can easily slip down. Dirty harbour water is the lesser of two evils; if there is heavy mussel growth, the mooring line can even become so snagged that it has to be cut. The method shown here, using a running eye, helps to prevent this. It is also useful if, whilst mooring, you suddenly realise that the actual eye is too tight, or if it might slip upwards off the post as the water level rises. However, this method also has a serious drawback: boats arriving later can only loop their mooring lines over your own line, which then becomes difficult to access or blocked. The running eye should therefore only be used when moored long-term at your own berth or, otherwise, in consultation with your neighbours.

Pierce the eye

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If a bollard is already occupied by other lines, the eye of your own mooring line should not simply be placed over them. Otherwise, when casting off, your neighbour would either have to untie their own clove hitch or – if the eye is spliced – even remove both lines. 1 Therefore, as shown, your own eye should instead be threaded through the other line from below 2 and only then placed over the bollard 3. In this way, the other line can still be untied first.

Extension

Boat hooks can be used as an extension of your arm: to do this, hook the eye of the mooring line onto the hook and open it by pulling on the loose end. It can then be looped over the post. Take care with telescopic extensions: whilst they are lighter and reach further when extended, they are not as stable as fixed models.

Well prepared for the mooring manoeuvre

boot/Wasser_1_561c21e03d2c15d8585e285e2f306738Photo: Christian Tiedt

The larger the crew, the better for the mooring manoeuvre. This is because, particularly with larger boats, it is easiest if two people can be assigned to each end of the boat – as shown here – to handle the relevant lines. To avoid any confusion, however, the crew must be well-coordinated or at least have been given clear instructions on their respective tasks. One person at the bow is also responsible for indicating the distance to the jetty. In addition, the following equipment should always be prepared and ready for use on deck or already in place: 1 FENDER Depending on the length of the boat, at least three standard fenders and one ball fender should be positioned on each side of the hull, until it is clear which side will be used for mooring. They are secured to the railing using a webbing knot and should not touch the water. The height depends on the mooring position. Stern fenders may also be required. 2 LINES It is important with all lines that they are routed from the cleat on board, under the railing, first outwards and only then round the top back onto the deck, where they are laid out in loops and ready for use. In any case, two bow lines should be prepared at the corresponding cleats A, along with two stern lines C. Lines can also be stowed amidships B. These can be used as needed, either as a temporary short centre line or as a spring line at any location. In an easily accessible place – if available – a further long spare line D should be added, in case another line breaks, goes overboard or has to be left behind. 3 MISCELLANEOUS In addition, an extra fender for fendering and the boat hook should be within easy reach so that lines can be secured E. At the helm F, the skipper ensures a clear all-round view, switches off the external music to allow for clear communication, and activates the bow and stern thrusters, if the boat is fitted with them.


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Christian Tiedt

Christian Tiedt

Editor Travel

Christian Tiedt was born in Hamburg in 1975, but grew up in the northern suburbs of the city - except for numerous visits to the harbor, North Sea and Baltic Sea, but without direct access to water sports for a long time. His first adventures then took place on dry land: With the classics from Chichester, Slocum and Co. After completing his vocational training, his studies finally gave him the opportunity (in terms of time) to get active on the water - and to obtain the relevant licenses. First with cruising and then, when he joined BOOTE in 2004, with motorboats of all kinds. In the meantime, Christian has been able to get to know almost all of Europe (and some more distant destinations) on his own keel and prefers to share his adventures and experiences as head of the travel department for YACHT and BOOTE in cruise reports.

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