A good-looking bar deck not only looks good, but also offers just as much support. If a crew member slips on deck, there is a risk of injury; but even if the outcome is minor, it will at least disrupt the manoeuvre. In heavy seas on the foredeck, boaters should not only rely on a non-slip deck covering, but also on a safety line. Nevertheless, a non-slip deck covering contributes greatly to safety on board and not just to the boat's appearance. Whether on a new boat or a second-hand bargain in need of a refit - a decision has to be made about what goes on the deck.
Teak has long been considered the first choice, but there are also some arguments against it: teak is a tropical wood for which, in addition to certified suppliers, illegal sources cut down the rainforest. Quality is rare and also expensive, a good teak deck costs from 1000 euros per square metre (laid by a specialist), but it can also cost more than 2000 euros. In addition, there is a not inconsiderable additional weight of around 6.5 kilograms per square metre. The deck also requires maintenance and wears out more quickly than plastic alternatives.
Plastic, cork or lacquer?
Instead of the beautiful natural product, there are decks made of plastic rods that can be laid in exactly the same way as the wooden version. Cork is also a natural alternative to plastic. Many manufacturers also offer prefabrication according to a template. The finished panels can then be glued to the deck even by non-professionals. This process is also offered for decks made from teak rods and reduces the price, which then lies somewhere between the pure material value and the sum that a specialised company would charge for the complete work.
Roll goods, which are laid in a similar way to a carpet, are cheaper and even simpler. A good pair of scissors is often enough to cut them out. The material can be completely customised and laid by yourself. Another option for coating the deck is varnish, which uses a special additive to provide the necessary slip resistance. These additives are added to the paint in powder form to create a rough, non-slip surface. The advantage of the latter variant is that it is easy to apply. The shape of the coating is determined solely by prior masking, the additional weight is very low and the price is manageable, depending on the paint system used.
The large selection
In addition to the classic teak rod, there are many other materials for coating the deck
In addition to the appearance, the effort involved in coating and the grip, the price also decides what goes on the running deck. We collected a total of 23 rubbers for the test. The picture does not show three of them, which are attached to the back of the discs prepared for the test. A rough categorisation was made according to appearance: Stick deck look forms the first group; the second the plastic coverings with studs, grooves and other textured surfaces; group 3 contains anti-slip coatings for brushing on. Teak stick deck, Treadmaster and a shipyard-applied GRP structure in the deck were tested as a reference.
We have representatives of all these deck coverings in the test field. Easy-Tek (formerly Tek-Dek), Esthec, Flexiteek and Isiteek, the latter being the DIY version of Flexiteek, are available in a stick deck look. Nuteak is also made of PVC, while Marinedeck 2000 is made of cork, and Marine Floor from Gisatex is a roll product with a printed joint pattern. The surface is identical to the Antislide Soft Walk from Gisatex, which is represented in the roll goods category alongside Multi Nopp and Safety Walk from the same manufacturer.
This category also includes Smartdeck from the Finnish manufacturer Brand ID. Similar to Seadeck, the material is a foam with integrated adhesive from 3M on the back. All you have to do is peel off the film and you can stick it to the deck. Visually, the Seadeck material fits into the stick deck category. However, the Smartdeck is a borderline case: it can also be ordered with a joint look. The joints are milled into both coatings. The foam has two layers with different colours, and the milled groove makes the underlying tint visible. Decking from TBS and Vetus is also available in rolls. The structure of the latter is reminiscent of Treadmaster. This decking is only included in the test as a reference value.
This is how we tested
The decking was glued onto boards either by the manufacturers or dealers or in the editorial office. These were then placed at an angle; we measured the angle of inclination. The tester stood on the deck and the angle at which the shoes began to slip was recorded. The angle up to which a secure footing was possible was recorded as the result. The same test was repeated with a wet deck and wet shoes. The shoe we chose was the price-performance tip from the YACHT shoe test: Sunrise II from Lizard. The model offered good grip, but did not have the best grip in the test.
The anti-slip paint range includes an Epifanes paint with various additives, bare paint for comparison, paint and additive from International and the coating from Kiwi-Grip. This differs from the paint-powder systems as it is applied and the structure is given by a special foam roller.
Grip is particularly relevant for the assessment, and accounts for 80 per cent of the rating. The remaining 20 per cent is accounted for by the price, where there are considerable differences. In the test, the rubbers, whether strips, from the roll or lacquer, were applied to a plywood panel. This was then tilted at different angles. When placed on top, the angle was then determined up to which the substrate provides a secure hold. The results are between 25 and 37 degrees angle of inclination, which is already a lot as a heel.
Simulated situation
In these conditions, it is highly advisable not only to rely on the grip of the deck and the shoes, but also to secure yourself. However, the direct comparison of these values in the test is informative and offers a very good opportunity for comparison. The range of twelve degrees, within which all test candidates lie, doesn't seem that big at first - but the difference when standing on the slope is enormous: just under 40 degrees feels almost vertical.
The result must be supplemented by an additional value. There is also a pure lacquer surface in the test that offered grip up to 32 degrees. Nevertheless, it is not advisable to leave your deck completely without an anti-slip coating. When stepping onto this lacquered surface, the boat shoe could suddenly slip away, even if the shoe was standing securely with very little inclination. Although a good deck coating can no longer provide a secure grip on a 40 degree incline, the shoe should only lose its stability slowly.
Secure hold
The rubber from Smartdeck offered the most grip in the test, closely followed by Easy-Tek, Flexiteek, Isiteek, Marinedeck 2000 made of cork, Nuteak and Esthec. The studded Vetus Safari also scored highly with similar measured values. The result of TBS21 was astonishing, achieving a very good value of 37 degrees when dry - but only 28 degrees when wet. Nevertheless, it gave a secure feeling, even if the shoe started to slip at some point.
The coatings made from lacquer with anti-slip additives also achieved very good values. The Epifanes coating, for example, was at 36 and 37 degrees when dry. With water, however, the surfaces lost some of their grip, and a phenomenon was also observed: If you lost grip, this happened abruptly. However, this is not comparable with the topcoat without additives; therefore, in our experience, the powder coatings are recommended for practical use.
Preliminary work
With the exception of lacquers and coverings with their own adhesive surface on the back, such as Smartdeck and Seadeck, the adhesive must be applied before the deck covering is laid. Careful preparation is required: the surface must be free of dust and grease, and particularly smooth lacquered surfaces should be sanded so that the adhesive adheres better. Unevenness can be seen through thin rolls, which is why the surface must be levelled and sanded beforehand. All preparatory work and the adhesive are not included in the price per square metre (unless otherwise stated). The price quoted for the paints refers only to the top layer with the anti-slip additive. If a colour structure with several layers of primer and then lacquer is required, the price is multiplied.
The structure of Kiwi-Grip was somewhat surprising with quite low gradient values, as the surface looks extremely rough and durable. Although the values are not among the best in the test and are even slightly below those of the pure lacquer surface, the Kiwi-Grip is nevertheless much safer: if the shoe slipped, it did so only slowly and also found its footing again. In addition, the Kiwi Grip structure can be very individualised due to the handling of the roll, such as different pressure. More material per square metre and rolling over it just once probably produces an even stronger structure. Conversely, a finer surface can also be created with a fur roller. In this case, it is advisable to make a few small samples on a board before the final application on deck. This is possible without any problems, as the material is processed as a single component and is water-soluble. The roller can therefore be rinsed out and used again later.
The Intergrip and the products from Gisatex are all good midfield performers. The Seadeck rubber delivered astonishing test results, offering even better grip in wet conditions than before in absolutely dry conditions.
Reference values
To enable comparability, a teak stick deck, Treadmaster and a GRP deck were also tested; these are the surfaces that can be found on many boats. However, the data was not included in the tables because teak and especially GRP decks vary from shipyard to shipyard and the Treadmaster deck was not new.
Deck covering as desired
Owners are now spoilt for choice. In terms of pure points, everything speaks in favour of paint with powder. This is due to the good grip and the very attractive price. What's more, it's easier to work with than a stick deck, even for less skilled users. What's more, you can of course choose any colour you like, which makes the look very variable.
What could not be mapped in the test is the wide range of different additives on the market or the option of experimenting with sand or other granulates and mixing your own personalised surface. The plastic coverings also offer great flexibility - Esthec, for example, is available in twelve colours and five different joint shades.
Coating for brushing on
There are two fundamentally different systems on the market in the group of anti-slip coatings for painting: paint with an additive that provides a rough surface texture, and Kiwi-Grip, which is given its texture by application with a coarse-pored foam roller. The texture can be customised by applying a finer roller or more or less pressure. All systems are very easy to apply yourself. The price per square metre is also extremely attractive. However, the invoice does not include the coating of the deck or consumables such as adhesive tape.
Cork has very exciting properties as a deck covering. It not only offers good grip, but also insulates at the same time. It is also a renewable raw material for which no trees have to be felled, as the cork oak is only peeled; the cork is the bark of the tree. The material for Marinedeck 2000 is FSC-certified and comes from plantations in Portugal. The material is not cheap, and laying it is just as much work as a conventional wooden deck. That is why the prices are similar.
According to our results, the test winner is the Smartdeck from BrandID in Finland. The grip was the best and the price is fair. Depending on the design of the flooring, for example with a milled bar pattern, it ranges from 70 to 200 euros per square metre of deck surface.
Do it yourself
Coatings with additives are particularly suitable for creating an anti-slip coating yourself. But there are other ways to add grip to the running deck: for example, by sprinkling sand onto the fresh paint surface. Salt is also a tried and tested method. After the varnish has hardened, it is rinsed off with water, leaving only the imprint as a rough surface. Various manufacturers also offer granules that can be stirred into the paint to create an excellent topcoat. Gelcoat or topcoat can also be used to create a customised texture. The material is mixed and spread evenly with a brush. The texture can then be created using a fur or foam roller. This is also possible with peel ply: simply place it on the gelcoat, wait until it becomes slightly sticky and then peel it off. Depending on how long you wait, this will change the texture of the self-made deck covering.
All in all, however, there is plenty of choice in terms of appearance and properties, because ultimately - and this is the good news - not a single surface failed the test in terms of slip resistance.
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Michael Rinck
Redakteur Test & Technik
