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Conquest 1950 CCRefit project part 2 - The transom is renewed

BOOTE

 · 15.02.2023

In part 2 of our refit project, the Conquest gets a new transom
Photo: Felix Wemheuer/Boote TV
Rotten plywood, that was once upon a time. In part 2 of our refit project, we turn our attention to the transom. From now on, PU foam and epoxy resin will reinforce the rear of our "old-timer".

All episodes of the refit project:

Moisture has penetrated the gluing of the individual veneers and caused the originally stable plywood to rot completely. What looks neat from the outside is at best still suitable for horticulture. The dilapidated mirror can certainly no longer support a powerful motor plus Z-drive. The only solution to the problem is to retread it.

If you want to know what your mirror looks like on the inside, you can borrow a measuring device from M. u. H. von der Linden, which shows on an LED traffic light (red, yellow, green) whether and how much moisture is in the sandwich (GRP laminate outside, plywood inside) of the mirror. There's no such thing as can't. If in doubt, the experts from Wesel also come on board with their equipment.

Make a template of the rear-view mirror from film

Before we really get down to business, we need to clear the way. This means carefully sanding the inside of the transom and then vacuuming up the sanding dust. After cleaning, the entire surface is covered with a film using adhesive tape. It is important that the film is applied without creases. If everything is correct, the outline of the mirror is drawn on the film with a felt-tip pen, which is then used as a template when cutting the "mirror plates".

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Please note: Coosa composite panels from the Bluewater series are made from a polyurethane foam filled with continuous glass fibres and additionally reinforced with glass roving fabric.

After cutting to size with a jigsaw, band saw or circular saw, the panels are fitted into the boat and then all edges are carefully rounded off. If everything fits and is correct, there will be no problems with the final lamination. A tip: First-class sandpaper such as Cubitron from 3M makes the work easier, delivers perfect results and, thanks to its durability, is ultimately no more expensive than paper from the DIY store.

We process the Coosa panels in three layers. The reason: "thin" panels adapt better to the shape of the mirror. This allows any air trapped during bonding to escape completely through the holes we drill in the sheets. Important: Because neither of the two becomes hard on its own, when bonding with epoxy adhesive resin and hardener, always mix the two well together (2:1).

Toothed spatula prevents air bubbles in the transom

Just as important: Always use a notched trowel when applying the adhesive. The grooves that are inevitably created act like a small vacuum pump. This allows air to escape completely and the bond is better. With a normal spatula, you "float" over the panels and inevitably incorporate air. This also results in different layer thicknesses.

Once everything has been glued and filled, the last layer is to cover all visible gluing points on the transom with a tear-off fabric. The latter protects against dirt and absorbs the armour red that develops during curing (at least 24 hours). After tearing off, you have a rough surface that does not have to be sanded before the next work step.

Our boat transom has a curvature in its shape that cannot be levelled out with the notched trowel alone. We therefore screw squared timber to the inside of the transom and press the Coosa panels firmly onto the laminate of the transom. This way, the "sandwich" is glued bombproof. Once the wood has hardened, it is removed again and awaits its next use on the shelf.

Video of the refit project

The BOOTE Refit project is supported by

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Other parts of the Refit series from BOOTE:

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