Who wouldn't want one? A teak deck looks classy and is also safe because it is non-slip. On the other side of the coin are maintenance, weight and price. If you don't like scrubbing, want to keep it light and save money, look for alternatives and find "dek-king", a deck covering made of UV-stabilised PVC, from Robert Lindemann (www.lindemann-kg.de). Manufactured in 10-metre strips with tongue and groove, the decking is available in various widths and colours. Just the thing for our Variant, whose deck is smooth and in poor condition. The new deck is glued in large panels. This means you need templates on which the strips are cut, fitted and fixed in place with pins.
1. interface:
With a wooden boat like our Variant, there's no need for a template. Here, the strips cut with a cutter knife are "pinned" directly onto the deck. A ruler ensures that nothing goes wrong when cutting.
2. scissor cut:
"dek-king" is easy to install, says the manufacturer. We believe that it does not work without experience in handling wood and tools. The easiest way is to use the scissors with a degree scale.
3 All beginnings are difficult:
The first deck strips on the outer edges and on the cabin superstructure really have to fit perfectly so that everything doesn't end up crooked and lopsided. If the work here is sloppy, stress is inevitable.
4. heat works wonders: It goes without saying that a "clear ship" must be made before starting the installation work. Fittings must be removed. If, despite everything, the dead-straight deck strip does not want to "bend", a hot air gun can help.
5. clear edge: Material protruding from the edges can be easily removed with a small metal plane. Small steps and a sharp blade are important. If it is blunt or incorrectly adjusted, there will be tears - and nobody likes them.
6. weird types: Mitres must fit perfectly and are therefore best cut to size using "degree scale scissors". If a fitting cannot be removed, "carving" is the order of the day. If you want it to be round, a hole saw from the DIY store will help.
7. cut off: After cutting to length, the black, elastic joint strip is missing at the mitres. Logical and therefore not a problem. The manufacturer of "dek-king" offers the joint strip as a (10) metre product as an accessory. Of course, you can't do without it.
8. adhesive strips: The black joint strips are glued with Stelmax adhesive (available from "dek-king" as an accessory) to their designated "lip" under the cover strip. It really couldn't be easier.
9. problem zone: If the deck moulds are really round, as is the case with the motor tub, the only thing that often helps when cutting and gluing is the gentle force of the screw clamp.
10 The new centre: On the foredeck you work your way outwards from the centre. Because it simply looks better, the centre strip is slightly wider (70 instead of 50 mm). That fits. The strips of adhesive tape prevent the decking from sticking to the deck when it is fitted and glued together.
11. pencil and paper:If things get tricky, homemade templates can help. The shapes of the deck strips you are looking for are drawn on the object as they should be on adhesive tape, paper or cardboard.
12. small but nice: The small parts cut out with the help of the drawn and cut-out templates are fitted piece by piece. This can take time, but it's worth the effort. And if it gets stuck somewhere, the small plane with the sharp blade helps.
13. physical exercises: On the side decks, work from the outside inwards. The reveal is important: adjust the first deck strip on the ship's side so that the last deck strip on the cabin superstructure is not too narrow. The expert's advice: it is better to measure too much than too little.
14 Let's go: The side decking, which has been cut to size and glued only to the tongue and groove, is carefully lifted off again over the entire surface before the big gluing operation.
15 Don't drop it:If everything fits and the Stelmax adhesive has had 24 hours to "weld" the deck strips firmly together, the new foredeck can be lifted off in one piece. This is best done in pairs. As with the side decks, strips of adhesive tape and careful handling of the adhesive prevented the new "strip suit" from sticking to the old foredeck.
16 If possible, please turn round:The back of the new front deck is treated with "Sikaflex activator" before bonding. This works much better with a lambskin roller than with a brush. Important: Allow the activator to evaporate for at least ten minutes before gluing.
17. major cleaning: The sanded (80-grit paper) deck of the boat must be absolutely dust-free. Then apply activator and primer with the lambskin roller.
18. a big thing:Once the activator and primer have dried, the Sikaflex adhesive (291i or 298i) is applied in thick "sausages".
19. show teeth: Spread the adhesive evenly with a notched trowel.
20 Roll on, roll off: To avoid ugly air bubbles, the deck covering is pressed down firmly with a pressure roller (available from "dek-king" as an accessory).
21 The famous pressure from above: Weigh down the newly glued and firmly rolled deck covering with as many weights as possible and leave it to rest for one night.
22. a steady hand is needed:The edges must be sealed with Sikaflex adhesive. If you know how, you do not need to tape. Inexperienced people should mask off each edge with adhesive tape before sealing.
23 The direction must be right: Any excess adhesive must be sanded off. This is best done with 40 grit sandpaper. It is only important that you always sand in the direction of the grain.
24. wanted: The deck fittings, pulpit and rubbing strake go on deck. If you drew up a plan when dismantling the boat, you won't have to search for the holes for long.
25 A good ending: The previously smooth and badly battered aft deck only needs the finishing touches described in point 23. That's it then!
