When was the last time you saw your trailer? No, not just in passing, but in peace and quiet with a scrutinising look at all the important details. It's been a long time - hasn't it? Boat trailers often lead a shadowy existence. They huddle around in dark corners of warehouses or are well hidden somewhere in the tall grass.
If they are "dug out" before the holiday or the slip date, they should work. The crux of the matter is that trailers don't always do this. If you want to reach your destination safely and comfortably when travelling by car and boat, you need to follow a few rules.
A thorough spring inspection is one of them. The trailer driver can do a lot himself and save time and money. However, and this is important, it is better not to repair the trailer's brake system. This is a job for the experts!
1st axes
Check fastenings for tight fit and corrosion, repair corrosion damage with anti-rust paint and varnish. Lubricate axles if possible (grease nipples).
2. trailer coupling and sway damper
Check the moving parts for ease of movement, function and wear (brake pads in the damper). Heavily worn parts must be replaced. Spare parts are available from the manufacturer.
3rd editions
The side supports should support more than carry. In any case, the adjustment mechanism of the supports must be operable. If it is difficult or impossible to move up and down, the spindle and thread must be cleaned and greased. Wire brushes, grease and oil from a spray can are suitable aids. If the pads are badly damaged, they should be replaced in good time. Glued-on carpet remnants or sturdy adhesive tape are only an emergency solution.
4. overrun brake
Lubricate the push rod, check the bellows for damage and replace if necessary, check the function of the reversing lock during a "test drive".
5. brakes
Check the handbrake lever, brake cables and brake linkage, remove rust if necessary (wire brush and rust remover), make operable and lubricate. Important: The breakaway cable and its snap hook must not be damaged and should (mandatory in Austria, Switzerland and the Netherlands) be routed through a fixed attachment point on the vehicle or towing device. Simply hanging over the coupling with a loop is not sufficient! Check hydraulic brake systems for leaks. The brake fluid should be changed by a specialist (every 2 years). Very important: the first brake test on the pitch before winter storage.
6. electrical system
If "no light comes on", corrosion is often the cause. Plugs and lamp sockets are allergic to water! In most cases, "contact care" with a wire brush, fine sandpaper and contact spray will help. Worn cables can be repaired with special connectors and sturdy insulating tape from the DIY store. Replacements for defective bulbs, broken lenses and reflectors can be obtained from petrol stations, trailer manufacturers or car accessory dealers.
7th HU sticker
Boat trailers must undergo regular general inspections in accordance with § 29 StVZO. You can easily find out when yours is due again on the HU sticker on the licence plate or in the trailer's registration certificate (Part 1).
8. keel rollers
Not much can be repaired here. Anything that does not turn easily, is bent, cracked or burst open must be replaced, and jacks, hammers, punches and side cutters will do a good job. It goes without saying that used split pins and locking plates should be thrown away. A tip: the expensive but much more stable polyvinyl rollers are always the better choice.
9. propeller cover
According to the law, the propeller must be covered during transport on the road. If you use a cover, such as those offered in boat accessory shops, you will generally have no problems during a traffic check.
10. frame
Check profiles and weld seams for cracks and corrosion, repair paint damage and tighten screw connections.
11. wheels and tyres
Retighten the wheel nuts. Check whether the rims are damaged and whether any balancing weights have been lost. If there are any problems, the tyre dealer can help. If the wheel bearings have too much play and/or make noises when turning the wheel, the trailer must be taken to the workshop. If the radial shaft seal is leaking (grease leaking from the rear of the brake drum), the same applies. Defective tyres are the number one cause of breakdowns, which is why the tyres must be checked for damage and ageing cracks at the start of the season and before every long journey. It is also important that the tyre pressure is correct. If the tread is worn down to 1.6 mm, the tyre must be replaced. If the tyres are approved for 100 km/h, they must be approved for 120 km/h and must not be older than six years. The classification and date of manufacture - the first two digits of the DOT number indicate the week of production and the last two the year of manufacture - can be found on the side of the tyre. A must: worn, old and damaged tyres should be thrown away. Of course, the above also applies to the spare tyre.
12. cable winch
Unwind the wire rope or harness completely and check the rope, harness and hook for damage. Small breaks, which can injure your hands, quickly turn into large ones, the consequences of which are a real nightmare. Therefore, replace damaged ropes and straps. A tip: Secure the crank with a strap on the winch stand to prevent it from shaking loose. If you want 5-star comfort, have an electric winch fitted.
13. shock absorber
Shock absorbers (mandatory for trailers with 100 km/h approval) improve driving behaviour and protect the boat and trailer. If there are traces of oil on the shock absorber or if the bushes are worn out, it must be replaced. Important: always check and retighten the screw connections.
14. slip wheels
If the trailer has adjustable slip wheels, their air pressure and lifting mechanism must be checked. Wheels with "flat feet" and damaged cables must be replaced and the spindle of the lifting device cleaned and greased. The trailer manufacturer almost always has suitable spare parts in stock.
15. drawbar load
The force with which the trailer coupling presses on the ball of the towing vehicle trailer coupling has a major influence on the driving behaviour and therefore on the safety of the trailer combination. It is easy to check using a bathroom scale and a square timber placed between the scale and the trailer coupling. A sticker on the towing vehicle provides information on how high the drawbar load should be. A tip: jockey wheels with integrated scales are available from accessory dealers.
16. support wheel
Lost stabilisers can cause nasty accidents. Therefore, check that the clamping device is intact and firmly tightened before every journey. Sluggish clamping screws and spindles must be cleaned and greased. "Crooked things" should be replaced quickly.
17. wheel chocks
Trailers with a GVW exceeding 750 kg must be fitted with two wheel chocks. Are the wheel chocks intact and securely fastened? If in doubt, replacing old with new is the best solution.
18. lashing
Only use undamaged and sufficiently dimensioned lashing straps with functional "ratchets" to lash the boat. A tip: Soft strap underlays protect the gelcoat.
19. tool
The meagre tools supplied by the towing vehicle manufacturer are not enough. Put together a tool kit according to your needs. A sturdy cross spanner for the wheel nuts, a hydraulic jack, a piece of board to provide a firm base and a squared timber to compensate for the height difference between the road surface and the trailer frame are useful.
20. weighing
Excess weight changes the driving behaviour of the trailer and thus endangers safety. You should therefore weigh the weight of the loaded trailer on a vehicle scale before travelling and "slim down" if necessary. A tip: Carrying a weighing card saves unpleasant questions during inspections. It is also clear that the trailer documents should always be with you.
