The Danube is the only waterway in Europe that connects the West with the East. The second longest river on the continent flows through ten countries. The fact that even the Romans, who used the waterways intensively, appreciated this is shown by the fact that the river god Danuvius was named after the waterway. As our charter boat has its home harbour in Untermühl in Austria, we have already completed the first part, which is in BOOTE 04/2021 the section from Vienna to the Schlögener Schlinge. Now comes the sequel, which is mainly dedicated to the German section from Saal an der Donau. Our floating home is once again the charter boat "Julio". The Quicksilver Active 905 Weekend is propelled by a Mercury Verado 350 and powered by the Charter company Danube Yachts operated. The charter company Thomas Schauer drove the "Julio" into our harbour of departure and thus made this trip possible. In principle, one-way trips are also possible for charter customers with appropriate planning. The river trip leads to historic cities such as Regensburg or Passau and through the marvellous nature of the free-flowing Danube between Straubing and Vilshofen.
Cast off at Marina Saal on the Danube
We start in the immediate vicinity of the officially navigable part of the Danube, near the confluence of the Altmühl and the Main-Danube Canal at Kelheim in the Marina Hall. There is also a petrol station here. The next opportunity to fill up with fuel is not until the marina on the Schlögener Schlinge in Austria, 223 kilometres downriver. Thanks to the "Julio's" 400-litre tank, however, it is no problem to reach the nearest petrol pump. Otherwise, the water sports clubs along the Danube are also very helpful in organising the transport of canisters. The hospitality of the clubs deserves special mention. Never before on a trip have we been so warmly welcomed by all the clubs without exception as on this trip along the Danube. This went far beyond the use of the jetties to complete city tours organised by club members to make this story happen. We would therefore like to expressly thank all the clubs and club members involved for their excellent support. Leisure captains will have to forego a detour to the picturesque Weltenburger Enge with its rock formations and the picturesque Weltenburg Abbey, as the nature reserve is closed to leisure boating. So we set off directly for our first overnight destination, the Danube Valley marina in Kapfelberg. The idyllic marina is run by MC-Kelheim and offers everything a recreational skipper needs, from crane service and slips to sanitary facilities and a harbour snack bar. Guest berths are available for boats up to 10 metres. Car parking spaces are also available. There are two campsites and restaurants in the immediate vicinity. We end the evening with a cosy get-together with the club board on the terrace of the Donaulände restaurant right on the shore.
Locks in Bad Abbach and Regensburg
The next morning we have to travel to Regensburg, passing through the locks in Bad Abbach and Regensburg. This goes smoothly. Although you could take the sports boat lock in Regensburg directly into the old arm of the Danube with the moorings, this is more suitable for smaller boats. As we don't want to take any risks, we take the large lock in the canal and accept the small diversions.
At the Regensburg lock, the delegation from the Motorboat and water sports club Regensburg who operates the jetty directly behind the sports boat lock. Once there, helpful hands are waiting at the floating dock to take care of the line work. Everything the skipper needs is also provided here. The very well-kept facility with a large lawn and club buildings, including sanitary facilities, also has a crane if you need to launch. Guests should book a few days in advance, which incidentally applies to all of the facilities visited. We gladly accept the friendly offer of a complete guided tour of Regensburg's historic city centre.
Settlement in the region began in the Stone Age. After the Celts came the Romans with a fort. Regensburg later became a royal seat and one of the oldest dioceses in Germany. It's not far to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Old Town, which leads over the striking 12th century Stone Bridge, which we had just passed on the way to the footbridges. This masterpiece of medieval architecture is the oldest preserved bridge in Germany. Once you reach the other side, you find yourself in the old town, whose impressive medieval architecture provides a marvellous backdrop for a stroll. Right at the end of the bridge, the historic Wurstkuchl the oldest bratwurst parlour in the world. The original building was the office for the construction of the Stone Bridge, which became a cookshop for the harbour and construction workers after its completion. Sausages have been roasted here on the banks of the Danube for centuries. Of course we don't miss out on the snack. Then we stroll through the old town centre. The Town Hall Square with the 13th century Old Town Hall and the Reichssaal building is very impressive. Also worth seeing is the towering St Peter's Cathedral, the city's most important church building from the same era. We enjoy strolling through the busy, pretty alleyways and stop for a cosy dinner near the mooring on the way back to the boat.
Sightseeing from the Danube
When travelling on the next day, you pass the imposing Walhalla in Donaustauf just after the end of the town. The memorial was built in the first half of the 19th century by King Ludwig I of Bavaria. If you want to take a closer look at the site, you should take a taxi from Regensburg, as there is only a landing stage for commercial shipping. There are two locks to negotiate before reaching Deggendorf. Thanks to prior notification by radio, this also works perfectly. The free-flowing part of the Danube begins at Straubing, where there are neither barrages nor canalised sections. The journey through alluvial forests and natural sections of the riverbank is a particular pleasure.
In the early afternoon we stop at the Lower Bavarian Motor Yacht Club on. The board is quickly on site. We have a nice chat with information over a wheat beer. The way into the town involves a short walk. There is also evidence of settlement in the Deggendorf area dating back to the Stone Age. The settlement was first mentioned in documents in the 11th century. The 19th century brought major changes. Many of the medieval buildings disappeared along with the town walls and were replaced by new buildings. As a result, the old town around Luitpoldplatz with the Old Town Hall, the south wing of which was built in 1535 as the town hall, is today characterised by architecture from this period. For dinner, we made use of one of the many restaurants in the historic centre. Fortunately, we had listened to the radio in the afternoon and thus learnt of an accident and a full closure that might prevent us from continuing our journey. When we returned to the harbour, the river police boat was back in place and the officers were still on board. We enquired and were told that the journey would be possible again the next day.
Caution is advised where the Isar and Danube meet
The Isar flows into the Danube directly behind Deggendorf. Caution is advised here, as shallow sandbanks lurk outside the fairway. The lock-free journey to Vilshofen along the natural banks of the Danube is a special experience that we thoroughly enjoy. A striking lighthouse marks the marina in Vilshofen, where unfortunately the free-flowing part of the river ends. We moor at the guest jetty. The Vilshofen boating club has its moorings here, eight of which are for guests.
A little later, Christian Gödel, the second chairman of the association, is standing on the jetty and invites us on a detailed tour of the town, which we thoroughly enjoy. The existence of Vilshofen has been documented since 776. The town square with the striking town tower from 1647 forms the centre of the old town. With a few exceptions, the buildings were rebuilt after a major fire in 1794. The centre, formerly built in the Gothic style, was given a new and more modern look by the master builder Franz Anton Glonner, who was commissioned to rebuild it. The parish church of St John the Baptist was only rebuilt in the first years of the 19th century. We end the tour on the beautiful banks of the Danube and look forward to a hearty meal in the rustic Wolferstetter Keller.
Passau, the city on the three rivers, is the next destination
The next destination is Passau. This route is also still lock-free. If you want, you can Heller Restaurant make a stop at the Fischerstüberl and plan a lunch in the Donaulounge directly at the landing stage. Overnight stays are also possible. Unfortunately, the restaurant and lounge were closed when we visited. The landlord, Robert Heller, told us the reason was a lack of staff. At the time of going to press, this was still the case, but catering is now available on request. So we set off again. As the city of three rivers has so much to offer, we decide to stay for two days. At the Motor-Yacht-Club Passau is further away from the town centre, but it is quiet and can be easily visited by bus. Moorings for larger boats are rare and available at the entrance. We get a nice spot. Once again, we are given a wonderful welcome and exemplary service by club members.
A visit to the old town centre is planned for the afternoon. The Celts already settled on the peninsula, at the tip of which the Inn and Ilz rivers flow into the Danube. The Romans had several forts and a harbour here. Passau has been a bishop's see since 739. After a fire in the 17th century, the city was rebuilt by Italian architects, giving it its special southern flair. We enjoy the walk through the old alleyways with their pretty street cafés, stroll to the Dreiflüsseeck and then along the Inn promenade back into the old town. Shortly before the train station, where our bus to the harbour departs, we come across the Bayerischer Löwe pub. We quickly agree that the cosy beer garden is perfect for dinner. Full and satisfied, we board the bus that takes us back to the harbour. The next day, the club organised a visit to Veste Oberhaus on the northern bank of the Danube. The imposing 13th century castle offers a unique view of Passau's old town and the confluence of the Danube, Inn and Ilz rivers, which is not to be missed. After lunch at the "The House of Lords" In addition to visiting the castle and exploring the town, we end the day later in the clubhouse with a cool wheat beer and a nice chat.
Crossing the border to Austria by boat
The penultimate stage is coming up and it takes us across the border into Austria. There are two locks to negotiate. Today's destination is the marvellous Marina on the Schlögener Schlinge which we had already visited on the first part of our Danube tour. The well-maintained facility also has a petrol station. Harbour master Franz Ebner is already waiting for us. You only get a perfect view of the water if you make the half-hour climb to the viewing point. It's worth the effort. Our evening ends in the harbour restaurant. The next morning, we travel 19 kilometres without locks to the Charter base in Untermühl. Thomas Schauer, who also runs the harbour, helps us with the lines and then shows us the changes. A lot has changed since our first visit. The complete remodelling has brought significantly more comfort. The idyllic marina now has electricity and water, modern sanitary facilities, swimming access to the Große Mühl, a barbecue area with a fire pit and a room for socialising. We can look back on a wonderful week exploring the beautiful Danube with its varied destinations and many hospitable clubs.
Service
Map
Cruise stages
- Saal an der Donau - Kapfelberg: 7 km
- Kapfelberg - Regensburg: 27 km
- Regensburg - Deggendorf: 97 km
- Deggendorf - Vilshofen: 35 km
- Vilshofen - Passau: 17 km
- Passau - Schlögen: 50 km
- Schlögen - Untermühl: 19 km
- Untermühl
- Total distance:252 km
The TOP 3 in the district
- Regensburg:Wonderful jetty and a picturesque old town centre with so much to discover.
- Passau:Historic old town with a special flair and unique location as well as a great festival.
- Marina Schlögen: Large marina in the middle of nature and a good contrast programme to exploring the city.
Nautical information
The precinct: The Danube is a busy waterway. The current is very variable and fluctuates. You can expect speeds of between 3 and 10 km/h. Freighters and pleasure boats are omnipresent. The locks are designed for commercial traffic, which has priority. Anyone wishing to pass through the locks should register via VHF. The channels are signposted. If you do not have a radio licence, you can also make contact by telephone, but you should listen to the radio traffic in this case too, as transmitting is prohibited without a licence. Waiting times must always be taken into account. Sometimes there are waiting areas for pleasure craft in front of the locks. The very hospitable marinas are mostly run by clubs. Contact persons are not always on site. You should always book a few days in advance. Contact details can be found on the clubs' websites. Legal regulations are available from the ADAC: www.skipper.adac.de/reviere/ under the country code "Germany" and "Austria".
Driving licence:The prerequisite for sailing motorboats on the Danube is the official inland waterway recreational craft licence.
Weather/climate
Literature
"The Danube. From Kelheim to the Black Sea". By Melanie Haselhorst and Kenneth Dittmann. Delius Klasing Verlag, 4th edition, 2022; 328 pages, 396 photos and illustrations, format 17.9 x 24.6 cm; € 44.00. ISBN: 978-3-667-12172-1. www.delius-klasing.de
Online chart Danube. You can find a detailed nautical chart of the part of the Danube travelled for trip planning at: https://at.d4d-portal.info/
Our boat: Quicksilver Activ 905 Weekend (GRP glider) - Length: 8.91 m - Width: 2.98 m - Draught: 0.63 m - Cruising speed: approx. 43 km/h (against the current), top speed: approx. 50 km/h (against the current) - fuel tank: 400 l - water tank: 100 l - engine: 350 hp (outboard) - equipment: plotter, VHF, inside steering position, 2 double cabins with 4 fixed berths, kitchenette, WC/shower, air conditioning/heating (only with shore power). Recommended crew for stays of several days on board: up to four persons
Charter:The Quicksilver Activ 905 Weekend is available at Donau Yachten (www.donau-yachten.com) between May and October with or without skipper. Charter for 3 days (from € 1494), 4 days (from € 1743) or a week (from € 2490). A skipper costs 65 €/h
