Aren't you actually scared? The world situation is not rosy - and your border with Russia is 1,300 kilometres long." Joerg Kammener's booming laughter fills the wood-panelled sauna and makes the glass panes vibrate. Sweaty faces turn towards us, mostly with broad grins. We sit at almost 100 degrees Celsius in Finland's trendy saunathe Löyly in Helsinki.
Start in the sauna - naturally
When Joerg has recovered from his burst of laughter, he explains: "We've been the happiest people in the world for years. We have over two and a half million saunas and we're sitting in one ourselves right now. What's going to happen to us?" In fact, according to the World Happiness Report 2025, the Finns are the happiest people in the world for the eighth time in a row and also have the highest sauna density in the world - statistically speaking, every second inhabitant can get into their own sweatbox.
I now experience the soothing heat for myself. And Joerg and his sweating buddies are not sweating in fear - even if, as he later emphasises, they have respect for the situation and their big neighbour. But something seems to make the Finnish mind resistant to crises. Perhaps it is the country's history, characterised by the struggle for independence: first from Sweden, later from Russia.
At the Nyländska Jaktklubb
We met Joerg at Nyländska Jaktklubben when he put our lines on the bollard in the traditional harbour on the small club island of Blekholmen, which is home to Helsinki's oldest sailing club. A dedicated ferry service conveniently connects the island with the nearby city centre.
The main building with its striking green roof was designed by the architects Estlander and Settergren and inaugurated in 1900 and is still carefully maintained today. Estlander also designed very successful archipelago cruiser cracks - sailing works of art that are cherished and maintained by their owners to this day.
The modern restaurant in the clubhouse with separate areas for members and guests leaves little to be desired. The small library in the sailing area is also particularly attractive. It alone is worth a visit: The shelves contain almost everything that has ever been printed in sailing literature. Of course, there is also a sauna - including a small outdoor pool embedded directly in the seawater. The club also operates the centre located a little further west. Guest harbour Björkholmen.
Helsinki lives with the sea
But there are also other good mooring spots close to the city - such as Marina Bay or Pohjoisranta Harbour. Joerg, who like almost everyone here speaks fluent English, has offered to help us with cultural and cruise planning. "Helsinki is not just by the sea - the Finnish capital lives with it and is closely linked to the Mare Balticum both historically and economically," he explains.
Today's metropolis was founded in 1550 by King Gustav I Vasa of Sweden as Helsingfors, as it is still officially called in the language of the Swedish minority. He had it built as a trading centre at the mouth of the Vantaanjoki - with the aim of competing with the then mighty Reval, now Tallinn.
From the cathedral to the Design District
One of the city's most famous sights is the imposing cathedral, which towers majestically over Senate Square with its white façade and green domes. Right next to it is the Orthodox Uspenski Cathedral with its golden domes and magnificent view over the harbour.
A special architectural highlight is the Temppeliaukio Church - better known as the Rock Church - which was built directly into solid granite. Its exceptional acoustics also make it a popular concert venue.
If you want to experience Helsinki on foot, stroll through the lively Esplanadi Park in the centre or explore the Design District with its small boutiques, studios and cafés. For culinary discoveries, we recommend the market hall at the harbour: regional specialities such as reindeer salami, fresh fish and sweet pastries are on offer here.
The Suomenlinna sea fortress
Just off the coast of Helsinki lies the famous Suomenlinna sea fortress - a UNESCO World Heritage Site that stretches across several archipelago islands. Here, history is combined with nature and a maritime atmosphere. Old bastions, small museums and cosy cafés invite you to explore and linger. Suomenlinna can be easily reached by ferry from the market square - or with your own boat.
The Guest harbour Sveaborg is located on the edge of the historic shipyard on the island of Susisaari. There are 40 berths with jibs available, allocated on a first come, first served basis. Reservations are not possible.
After so much culture and culinary delights, we are drawn out into the legendary archipelago. "There are thousands of saari off our coast - archipelago islands with bare rocks, sheltered bays and small beaches," says Joerg. Even as an infant, he and his parents spent every summer on a ten-metre-long boat - and the archipelago has been his second home ever since.
Archipelago on the doorstep
A true paradise for sailors, it can also be a nautical challenge. The glistening surface of the water conceals flat stones and rocky ridges. It is therefore best not to leave the buoyed fairways - and if you do, only at a reduced speed and with a watchful eye. The best time for a trip is from mid-May to the end of July. This is when you can experience the famous "white nights", when the sun barely disappears behind the horizon.
A final tip from Joerg: "Don't forget mosquito nets and mosquito repellent - otherwise the beasts will eat you up." The people we meet here are warm and helpful - our private guide is the best example.
As the last official act of a thoroughbred Finn, he introduces us to the drinking culture of his country. Cheers, or rather kippis, as they say here. With a grin, he tells us: "Finns don't drink to get drunk, they drink to get a hangover." The next morning, we leave our bunks later than usual. We finally cast off and breathe in the fresh breeze. Our destination: another metropolis, almost within sight - the Estonian capital Tallinn.
