The Coast of the Gods is a charming destination in Calabria – but one known to very few. Not least because most skippers are invariably drawn to the Aeolian Islands, which are within sight. That’s not wrong, of course. But you’re missing out on something.
It stretches between Pizzo and Nicotera and boasts crystal-clear waters, idyllic beaches and charming little towns. And as just under 30 nautical miles isn’t exactly a nautical challenge, the journey continues a little further south to Scilla, at the entrance to the Strait of Messina. If only for the unique swordfish fleet there. And the excellent seafood restaurants.
Pizzo, a delightful start
For day one, we recommend Pizzo, just round the corner – a delightful start to your trip on the Tyrrhenian coast. Approaching it from the sea is an experience in itself: the town is picturesquely perched on a rocky outcrop above the sea and, as you approach from the water, offers a stunning panorama featuring the old fortress and the pastel-coloured houses of the old town.
Just below the picturesque town centre lies a small, sheltered harbour, which is, however, reserved for fishing boats only. Anchoring is no problem in light, offshore winds. On land, crews can expect a typical southern Italian atmosphere: winding alleyways and historic sights such as the Castello Murat. The castle bears witness to Calabria’s turbulent past and is closely linked to the history of one of Napoleon’s brothers-in-law.
The real attraction: Tartufo
Pizzo’s real attraction, however, is its famous Tartufo ice cream, which you really mustn’t miss out on in Piazza della Repubblica, overlooking the harbour. The dessert was invented here in the 1950s. Several ice-cream parlours claim to serve the original version – Gelateria Dante is particularly famous. A must-try. The rest is silence and smacking your lips.
A cave church on the beach
The next highlight the following day, just north of Pizzo, is the Chiesetta di Piedigrotta, a unique cave church near the beach, which is very easy to reach by dinghy. The church was carved into the rock by the sea and has a remarkable history.
According to legend, the chapel was built at the end of the 17th century: Neapolitan sailors were caught in a severe storm and vowed that, should they be saved, they would build a church in honour of the Madonna. And so it came to pass. Despite their shipwreck, they reached the shore unharmed – as did an image of the Madonna that had been in the captain’s cabin. Out of gratitude, they carved a chapel out of the rock at the site of the shipwreck and placed the image there.
From one swimming stop to the next
There’s certainly no sign of a storm on our cruise. The gentle onshore breeze during the day carries us towards Tropea, the pearl of Calabria, from one swimming stop to the next. On the way, we moor at a special anchorage. It’s near a tuff rock formation that looks like an ancient Etruscan harbour and is very popular at the weekend. Unfortunately, we’re a bit late. We don’t have time for more than a quick dip. Never mind – any chance to cool off is welcome!
Part 2 of the report will follow shortly!
More about Italy
- A place of retreat: Porto Cervo in Sardinia
- Volcanic fires and secluded bays: the Aeolian Islands
- Porto Azzurro: Elba’s blue jewel
Jan Jepsen
Freier Autor
