Journey: The Uckermark - idyll, industrial history and the waters of Templin

• Here you will find the second part of the journey: The Upper Havel to Fürstenberg and the Lychener Seenkreuz

Dragonflies buzz around us in dazzling colours, every now and then a kingfisher flashes between the reed-covered banks and a kite circles high above us. Apart from the monotonous and surprisingly quiet sound of our charter boat's engine and the gentle murmur of the wake, all you can hear are the crickets chirping. The Uckermark is a holiday for the senses. In the north of Brandenburg, the Upper Havel meanders through dense forests and moorland, flows through glistening lakes and opens up to secluded anchor bays, to which it probably owes its name (the root of the word Haf denotes a bulge). A seemingly endless sky is reflected in the lazily flowing water. Just under an hour's drive from the bustling capital city of Berlin is a charter area with winding, unspoilt canals, dense forests and pure nature.

If you are looking for seclusion and tranquillity, you will find it here

With over 3,000 square kilometres, the Uckermark is one of the largest districts in Germany. At the same time, the water-rich region is one of the most sparsely populated areas with only 39 inhabitants per square kilometre. Water lilies and reeds dominate the banks for hours on end, and in places there is hardly a sign of civilisation to be seen. Forests and lakes as far as the eye can see: the best conditions for finding peace and relaxation and exploring nature from the water. The Uckermark offers hundreds of lakes and an extensive network of waterways. Not only stressed city dwellers appreciate the seclusion and tranquillity of the Uckermark lakes and the natural beauty of the Havel. The biodiversity speaks for itself. In addition to the heraldic animal, the osprey, the beaver, once hunted almost to extinction, also finds ideal conditions in the protected nature parks. More than 60 per cent of the slightly hilly Uckermark is a nature reserve. Time seems to have stood still in the small, sleepy villages with their churches and stone streets. Mobile phone networks and internet reception are nowhere to be found here. An invitation to do nothing.

For decades, bricks from Zehdenick set the tone in Berlin

Our starting point of Zehdenick is located in the southern part of the Uckermark Lakes Nature Park. From here, we head north along the Upper Havel Waterway (OHW). Its development over 200 years ago created the first direct connection between the Mecklenburg lakes and Berlin.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the region north of Zehdenick developed into the largest brickworks in Europe. The high demand for bricks for the growing city of Berlin and the good navigable connection ensured that the region flourished economically. It is said that Berlin was built from the barge. The chimneys on both sides of the Havel shot up like mushrooms. But with the triumph of prefabricated housing, the demand for clay declined. Since reunification, even the last kiln has gone cold. The more than 60 clay pits, which line the Havel like a patchwork quilt, were flooded with groundwater and are now a paradise for animals. The Mildenberg Brickworks Park at kilometre 22 of the river provides an exciting insight into brick production, with a walk through the impressive brick-built ring kilns and the machine hall giving visitors an insight into the hard working day of the workers.

Pure idyll in the small marina "Alter Hafen"

For visitors arriving by boat, the idyllic "Alter Hafen" marina right next to the Ziegeleipark is another reason to make a stop here. In the "Alter Hafen" restaurant, you can enjoy regional and seasonal dishes on the "Havel Terrace" with a view of the harbour basin illuminated by the evening light, in our case excellent asparagus. The harbour office and sanitary facilities are located in the building opposite (electricity and water at the jetty, prices for guest berths: 2.60 euros per metre, plus 2 euros per person, electricity flat rate 4 euros).

At the end of May, it's not so busy on the water yet. In July and August, you have to be lucky to get a mooring and there can be longer waiting times, especially in front of the locks, so you shouldn't plan too much. But there's no need to rush here anyway. We are in no hurry, but the next day brings us early summer temperatures and makes us want to head for the next lake to anchor for lunch. So we cast off after breakfast. At river kilometre 32.4, the Templin waterway branches off to the east from the Upper Havel Waterway. The waterway to Templin is one of the oldest in the region and consists of a chain of lakes, most of which are part of the Uckermark Lakes.

After seven years of construction, the Kannenburg lock is passable again

After the large Kuhwallsee lake, we reach the Kannenburg lock. Until a few years ago, the last manually operated inclined chamber lock in the area was in operation here. It had to be closed in 2017 due to irreparable damage. It was impassable for seven long years and the north-eastern lakes were cut off from the waterways to Berlin and the Mecklenburg Lake District. The new lock has been in operation since April 2024. We pass the brand-new lock, which compensates for the difference in height to the Havel, and shortly afterwards turn starboard onto the large Lankensee. We drop anchor and enjoy the silence. Although there are three other anchors across the lake besides us, it feels as if we are all alone in our corner on the southern shore. Thanks to the vastness of the landscape, even in high season you will find what you are looking for if you are looking for seclusion.

A gentle breeze carries birdsong over to us from the dense riverside forest. Mobile phone reception is nowhere to be found here. The perfect spot for an undisturbed lunch on the aft deck.

We weigh anchor in the afternoon. Our next destination is the "Pearl of the Uckermark": Templin. We still have around two hours of travelling time ahead of us via the Templin Canal and Röddelinsee to the Templin lock. We reach the town harbour at the western end of Lake Templin in the early evening. As we moor, the harbour master comes to meet us and tells us that the jetty had only been officially opened by the mayor the previous evening. There is still no electricity at the jetty and some jibs are still missing. The prices have also changed overnight. Yesterday it was 3 euros per metre, from today it's 12.50 euros per person. For us, as there are only two of us, this is actually an advantage. But you can work out what that means for the family crew of six next door.

The "Pearl of the Uckermark": medieval walls and eventful history

During an evening stroll ashore in search of something to eat, we get a first impression of how the town came to be called the "Pearl of the Uckermark". The medieval old town with its fully preserved fortifications, the baroque town hall and the 15th century Georgenkapelle chapel is just a few minutes' walk from the harbour. A small hill leads to the 1735 metre long and seven metre high town wall made of fieldstone. Anyone interested in the eventful and sometimes tragic history of Templin can visit the museum in the Prenzlauer Tor, one of the three impressive Gothic town gates, to get an idea of urban life and the influence of the surrounding forests and lakes on the lives of the people of Templin. If you're not as lucky with the weather as we are, you can relax in the thermal brine spa (www.naturthermetemplin.de), where you can soak in the pleasantly warm brine water.

Before we make our way back to the Upper Havel, the next day we take a tour of the Templiner Stadtsee. On the elongated lake to the east of the town, the wind picks up for the first time on our trip. We circle the Liebesinsel and set course for the Templin lock. Where the Templin waters join the Upper Havel Waterway, we let two boats coming from the right pass before turning off and resuming our course northwards.

Shortly afterwards, we reach the Schorfheide lock and are confused: There is a large construction site in front of us and two red lights on top of each other indicate that the lock is closed. We briefly get the uneasy feeling that we will have to abort our trip here and turn back. But there is already a waiting boat at the waiting point and the skipper informs us that the lock will only be closed for an estimated two to four hours. At least. So we moor up and use the enforced break for lunch. Here again: no mobile phone reception or internet. When travelling through the Uckermark, it is advisable to take plenty of reading material with you.

• Here you will find the second part of the journey: The Upper Havel to Fürstenberg and the Lychener Seenkreuz