In the past, people at the mouth of the Zuiderzee had to deal with its unpredictability just as much as the inhabitants of Amsterdam inland. It was not only the tides that this open connection to the North Sea brought with it, but also violent storm surges. Due to the deceptive expanse, the incoming water could quickly build up over the shallow subsoil, causing the Zuiderzee to act like a funnel. Its force often caused dykes to break, which often had devastating consequences for all living things on land.
The Zuiderzee is to be tamed
Initially, there was a desire to tame the Zuiderzee and reclaim land. Although the region had a lot of experience in drainage and land reclamation, it was not possible to realise the plans for a long time. As the industrial age progressed, such projects became feasible thanks to the use of machinery.
In 1870, a comprehensive plan was developed to largely exclude the North Sea: the construction of the Afsluitdijk. This impressive structure stretches 32 kilometres from the tip of Noord-Holland near Den Oever to Friesland, where it meets land again north of Makkum. Construction work began in 1927 and was completed on 28 May 1932, when the last gap was closed and the resulting inland waterway was given the name IJsselmeer.
The IJsselmeer becomes reality
The IJsselmeer got its name from its most important freshwater tributary, the Geldersche IJssel. This marked the beginning of far-reaching changes in the region. Systematic drainage measures shaped the newly created waters. Large areas of land were poldered, resulting in the creation of Flevoland, the world's largest artificial island and the youngest province in the Netherlands, founded in 1986.
The Houtribdijk, which separates the Markermeer from the IJsselmeer and is named after the island of Marken, was also completed during this time. Further land reclamation plans were abandoned to leave room for nature.
Unique area for boating
The result is an unrivalled region that offers a special sailing area. In a country with a strong water sports tradition, modernity is combined with history. This combination creates interesting contrasts in some places. The harbours along the IJsselmeer and Markermeer allow for leisurely trips from town to town, ideal for longer cruises.
A little tip: although "zee" (sea) has become "meer" (lake), the waves of the Zuiderzee have remained. In strong winds, short, steep waves of up to one and a half metres can quickly arise due to the shallow depth. This effect can be particularly noticeable when approaching the harbour entrances, as the North Sea is still very close behind the dyke!
Over the Lorentzsluizen into the IJsselmeer
Those travelling seaward from the east via the German Bight and the West Frisian Islands to the IJsselmeer can call at the Lorentzsluizen of Kornwerderzand at the eastern end of the Afsluitdijk. To the west, the Stevinsluizen offer another possible passage. Barely two nautical miles south-west of Kornwerderzand lies Makkum, already known in the Middle Ages as Poort naar de Zuiderzee and today the gateway to the IJsselmeer. The fact that the town with its 3,500 inhabitants is one of the "eleven old towns" of Friesland is not immediately recognisable when approaching.
Tourism and the shipyard industry characterise the picture, with the wide artificial beach and the shipyards of Feadship, which build superyachts here, to starboard as you enter via the Makkumerdiep. From the large, fully equipped Makkum marina on this side, you can easily reach the beach promenade. However, if you prefer to spend the evening in the tranquil centre of the village around the market and Plein, continue to the Buitenhaven, which is run by the municipality.
A trip to old Workum
In contrast to many of the other poldered corners of the IJsselmeer, the natural coastline on the Frisian side has been largely preserved. On the way south, three of the historic Alve Fryske stêden, eleven towns that were granted town rights in the Middle Ages and formed the basis for Friesland's later economic prosperity, are now lined up here.
Workum is the place to start. A visit here is a detour into the countryside, as the town lies at the end of a one-mile-long branch canal that connects to the inland waterway network via a lock. However, the water depth in the canal is only 1.70 metres. Moorings are available in Jachthaven It Soal and in Passantenhaven right next to the lock. Workum's landmark, the massive late Gothic Gertrudiskerk, can be reached on foot in ten minutes.
To Hindeloopen, Stavoren and Lemmer
Hindeloopen and Stavoren, both of which also have large marinas, are located directly on the coast. In addition to nice cafés and restaurants, there is not too much to discover here compared to other places on the IJsselmeer, but you can always relax. Stavoren is also the starting point of the Johan Frisokanaal, a direct route to the large interconnected Frisian lakes, the Fryske Marren, as well as to Heeg and Sneek.
For larger yachts with a draught of up to 1.9 metres, the Staande Mastroute, which is crossed exclusively by movable bridges, is of course ideal for inland navigation between the IJsselmeer and the Ems. However, this route via the Prinses Margrietkanaal will not be passable again until 2026, as the bridge at Uitwellingerga is defective and cannot be opened. The entrance is at the old fishing port of Lemmer in the very south of Friesland, with a pretty town centre along the Zijlroede. Guests will find many harbours, including the fully equipped Jachthaven Friese Hoek and the Watersport Centrum Lemmer.
Nautical literature on the IJsselmeer
- Nautical literature: Cruising guide "Holland 2: The IJsselmeer and the northern provinces" by Jan Werner. Delius Klasing: 224 p., ISBN 978-3-667-12063-2, 39, 90 Euro.
- Manual "The IJsselmeer. With Noord-Holland, Randmeeren, Flevoland" by Manfred Fenzl. Edition Maritim: 224 p., ISBN 978-3-667-12212-4, 39, 90 Euro.
- Sport boat charts "NL3 NVCharts Nederland. IJsselmeer, Markermeer en Randmeren"NVCharts: Oversailer, district and detailed charts. Format: 32.4 x 44 cm, 64.99 euros.
