Part 1 of this report can be found here!
Change of scene: The Rollberge, the twelve-kilometre-long Ruda Woda channel lake and a night in the small marina Przystań na Wyspie in Miłomłyn are behind us and the Miłomłyn lock is in front of us as the entrance to the eastern part of the Eylau Lake District. In contrast to the Masurian Lake District, which is around two and a half hours away by car, this patch of earth praised for its creation is densely populated. Towns rich in history, medieval castles and pretty manor houses line a silver network of around 100 lakes.
Napoleon: "A castle at last!"
Many celebrities have left their mark here - first and foremost Napoleon. After the indecisive battle against the Russian army at Preußisch Eylau in February 1807, he took up quarters in the castle of Ostróda (Osterode). But the defiant Teutonic Knights' fortress was anything but to his liking.
The "Butcher of Europe", as his opponents, above all the British, called him, used to lay his head to rest in establishments befitting his status. In other words, after a brief interlude, he moved to the three-winged baroque residence of Count Finck von Finckenstein with the famous words "Enfin un château, a castle at last!".
His new liaison, the Polish noblewoman Maria Walewska-Łączyńska, 21 years old at the time and married to a rich count over 50 years her senior, was also in on the action. 130 years later, Hollywood adapted the quirky love story, with none other than the film diva Greta Garbo in the role of Maria.
From Ostróda around the world
Our arrival in Ostróda is without glamour. We take the Jezioro Drwęckie under the keel, head for the marina of the Żeglarski Ostróda sailing club and enquire about a berth. Krzysztof, who has been in charge of the boat parking for over three decades, nods. "No problem!"
He then asks where we are from and where we want to go, gives us a few sightseeing tips for Ostróda and finally presents us with his sailing club's collection of trophies. There are a lot of shiny things, but one item stands out: we ask him what the old, orange-coloured ship's lantern among all the trophies is all about.
"That," he answers proudly, "is the all-round light of the yacht 'Mazurek'. In 1978, Krystyna Chojnowska-Liskiewicz was the first woman ever to sail around the world on this boat, which is less than ten metres long. She earned her first sailing spurs as a teenager here on our lake," continues the harbour master."
We say thank you with an anchor beer and make our way to the town of 31,000 inhabitants. Twenty minutes later, we are sitting in a pretty café on the waterfront promenade. A few metres away, the "Ostróda" sets sail with a loud signal from her ship's horn. Jochen looks after her. "3.20 metres wide," he comments. "Of course, now it makes sense. You can't go any wider, otherwise the steamer won't fit in the trolley."
Kanał Iławski: in the green tunnel
We set course for Iława (Eylau): We pass the Miłomłyn lock again, have a quick chat with the lock keeper and then take the Kanał Iławski towards Jezioro Jeziorak under the bow. As if by magic, the canopy transforms into a green tunnel of dense forest.
Shortly before the Karnicki aqueduct, an almost 500 metre long causeway, a sports boat comes towards us. At the transom, 200 horsepower show what they can do. And produce a powerful wave. "Have a good trip," Jochen teases. Which means: "Take your hand off the accelerator!"
Shortly before the Zatoka Kraga flows into the Jezioro Jeziorak, a picnic area invites us to make a stopover. We moor up, have a second breakfast and then walk to the manor house towering high above the lake. It belonged - of course - to the Finckensteins. Like so many other aristocratic families, a mixture of chance, lobbying and politics brought them to Prussia. In the service of His Majesty, they held high state and military offices. And in doing so, they amassed immense estates, which the Lord gives to his own in his sleep.
At Joasia in Matyty
You may think what you like about Prussia's rulers - the introduction of compulsory education by Frederick William I in 1717 is definitely one of the dynasty's plus points. Of course, the idea was not simply an impulse. Rather, the monarch was appalled by the lack of education among his subjects. He wanted them to learn to read, write and do maths so that, according to the soldier king's ulterior motive, they would become good Christians, i.e. obedient citizens.
Joasia does not know to what extent the small village school in Matyty was able to fulfil this educational mission. The 24-year-old has leased the former school and runs it as a kind of eco-pension. In addition to a riding stable, it also has a canoe hire centre. We reach Matyty at around 4 pm. When asked if there is a restaurant or supermarket, Joasia shakes her head. "You'll have to go to Zalewo. But I can also cook for you." We don't need to be told twice ...
Zalewo: the northernmost town
The next day at 10 a.m.: we have a leisurely breakfast on Joasia's terrace, with bread, cheese and jam, all homemade, plus eggs from the neighbour's chickens and vegetables from our own garden, say goodbye and set course for Zalewo. The town of 2,300 inhabitants is the northernmost town in the Lake District and is connected to the Jezioro Jeziorak via the Kanał Dobrzycki canal, which was built in 1331.
According to the author of our travel guide, the town was founded by the Teutonic Knights, had a castle and flourished economically with the construction of the Rollberge. The Second World War and the politically difficult post-war period may have spit in the town treasurer's soup, but the peace and nature there alone are worth the detour.
We enjoy sweet idleness, then it's time to cast off for the last leg. A good 30 kilometres separate the well-equipped and environmentally certified Zalewo Marina from the destination of our one-way trip, the water sports town of Iława, from which the lake district takes its name. The waterway of the Upperland Canal also ends there.
Iława - the goal has been reached
After just under a third of the way, we pass Siemiany, the largest marina between Zalewo and Iława. It's Sunday and the weather is at its best. The number of boats on the water increases with every kilometre towards Iława. Nature is taking a back seat. Instead of dense deciduous and coniferous trees, the shoreline is characterised by large villa plots. "Top!" Jochen comments on the chic properties, which could just as easily be on the Upper Thames or Lake Zurich. Proximity to the water is attractive; the closer, the better. Even in the beautiful Oberland. In Prussian times as well as today in Poland.
Part 1 of this report can be found here!
Precinct information
Charter
Vistula Cruises, Marina Rybina, 82-103 Stegna. The company has a total of 8 boats between 8.20 and 10.10 metres for charter. The weekly hire price for our Vistula Cruiser 30 S is between 1,150 and 1,750 euros/week, depending on the season. In addition, there is final cleaning (70 euros), bed linen if required (20 euros/p.p.), fuel costs (billed according to sailing hours, on average around 100 euros/week) and, on request, a helper's hand for the rolling mountains (70 euros), transfer on request from Gdansk airport to the base and vice versa (flat rate 80 euros/tour, max. 6 people). Internet: zeglugawislana.pl. Mail: biuro@zeglugawislana.pl (Language: English).
Our boat
Vistula Cruiser 30 S (GRP), length: 9.10 m, width: 2.92 m, draught: 0.45 m, berths: 7 (1 twin cabin, 1 open twin cabin under floor, 3 saloon berths), WC/shower: 1/1, engine: 27 hp inboard (diesel). Equipment: fridge with freezer compartment, two-burner gas cooker, heating, bow thruster, depth sounder/fishfinder.
Maps and literature
- Double-sided, weatherproof laminated leisure maps of the Polish map publisher Compass(in Germany approx. 14 euros/map, languages: Polish and English): "Pojezierze Iławskie" (Eylau Lake District including between Maldyty, Zalewo, Ilawa and Ostróda), scale 1:50,000, 2021 edition. "Mierzeja Wislana, Zulawy Wislane" (Polish Baltic coast between Sopot and the Vistula Spit as well as the hinterland between Gdansk, Malbork, Elbląg and Frombork), scale 1:55,000, 2023 edition.
- "Masuria. With Marienburg, Danzig and Thorn", compact, well-researched paperback. Trescher Verlag, 12th ed. 2024, 299 p., 18.95 euros.
