We say goodbye, untie the lines and the skipper carefully turns the "RS2" on the disc until the bow points to the narrow exit. The next two hours are a beautiful cruise through the Östergötland archipelago. We zigzag northwards, about ten nautical miles to Harstena. Most of the islands are nameless, at least on our charts. In earlier times, the larger islets were certainly sufficient for sealers and fishermen to find their way around.
In the Östergötland archipelago
Narrow passages alternate with wide passages. There is a lot of pleasure craft on the move, mostly under motor. The patient sailors try to take advantage of the faint breeze, but even the lightest of cloths falls in again and again. Fångö passes on the port side and we cross the Reskärsdjupet.
Also interesting:Also interesting:
You could easily sail past the approach to Harstena. We turn to starboard into the narrow sound and in front of us is a crowded scene that couldn't be more summery: Yachts with stern anchors along the jetty, a white skerry steamer, a restaurant on the water, the terrace fully occupied.
Holiday mood in Harstena
Behind it, more houses and forest. People are everywhere, the exuberant atmosphere can be felt all the way on board. Two girls on a SUP, a couple paddling, families from the mainland, boat crews and day guests, prams, folding chairs and an old man carefully hanging up a net to dry.
Fantastic, you should stay here! We allow ourselves at least two hours. As there is no room at the jetty, we anchor further ahead in a small bay near a catamaran. Also perfect - and the dinghy is in the water in no time. I wonder what's going on here in August.
Two hours to go ashore
Walk ashore and right in the middle of it all: Restaurang Loftet, the tourist information centre, the Handelsbod, all at a small crossroads where an old tractor is parked as decoration. Nobody can get lost here. The towels of the sun-seekers are spread out on the warm, bare rocks above the water. They are not disturbed by the lively harbour cinema.
Only small boats cross the sound to its other end, which is buoyed but very shallow. 1.50 metres, warns a sign. Day cruisers take the plunge, including a travelling dinghy. And of course the five children in the dinghy, the skipper perhaps ten years old.
It's hard to tear yourself away
It's hard to tear yourself away from this paradise, but it has to be done. Next stop: Arkösund, which Wikipedia doesn't tell us much more about than that it has 180 inhabitants and is a popular harbour for yachts in summer. Doesn't sound that exciting at first, a sail-in supermarket. We'll be surprised.
Another two and a half hours, and we soon return to the main fairway, with lights at every corner. They are named like the islands on which they stand: Enskär, Fågelön, Ådkobb. They belong to Sankt Anna skärgård. The Finnfjärden leads to the west. At its inner end, Slätbaken, about 15 nautical miles away, lies Mem - the beginning of the Göta Canal.
Area information: Östergötland
The Cruising Club of Switzerland (CCS)
On this trip, we travelled with the Cruising Club of Switzerland (CCS). With around 6,500 members, the Bern-based Central Club is one of the largest water sports clubs in Switzerland and is a leader in the country's recreational boating sector when it comes to offshore training.
The motorboat division forms a subdivision of the club with its own yacht, which is used for training and cruises in northern and western Europe. In the 2026 travel season, the cruising programme for members will take them from the North Sea across the English Channel to southern Brittany and back to the Solent, with side trips to London and Paris. ccs-motoryacht.ch
The yacht
"Rolling Swiss 2" (Trader 42; semi-glider made of GRP). Length: 13.30 m - Width: 4.30 m - Height: 3.80 m - Draft: 1.20 m - Berths: 6 (in 3 double cabins) - WC/shower: 2/2 - CE category: A - Motorisation: 2 x 380 hp (Cummins diesel) - Special equipment: VHF radio system, autopilot, plotter with radar and AIS overlay (active and passive), generator, epirb, bow thruster, dinghy with 15 hp outboard in davits.
The precinct
The area travelled on this two-week cruise covers the section of the Swedish south-east coast between Kalmar and Stockholm (in this first part of the report to Hävringe near Landsort). From south to north, it touches the provinces of Kalmar, Östergötland and Södermanland.
While there are comparatively few islands in Kalmar Sound, the number of archipelagos increases towards the north. The archipelago of Östergötland includes the Sankt Anna archipelago, which lies off the eastern entrance to the Göta Canal. The direct distance between Kalmar and Hävringe is 220 kilometres or 120 nautical miles.
The navigation
The coast and archipelago are shaped by the ice age and characterised by a flat rocky landscape. Continuous fairways are marked on the nautical chart and are buoyed and lighted depending on their importance. Careful navigation is required away from these fairways, for example when steering away from bays or natural harbours. Good preparation is essential when planning your route.
Harbours and anchorages
Apart from that, the area offers a large number of guest harbours, marinas and other mooring options. As it can still get very crowded, especially in summer during the holiday season, alternatives should be prepared for overnight stays. Town harbours on the mainland generally have a comprehensive range of services with good supply options.
Literature and nautical charts
- Delius Klasing Sport Boat Chart Sets 11 "East Coast Sweden 1" (format A2, ISBN 978-3-667-13023-5, 129.90 euros) and 12 "East Coast Sweden 2" (format A2, ISBN 978-3- 667-13190-4, 139.90 euros). delius-klasing.de
- Harbour guide "Hamnguiden 7th Landsort - Skanör, Öland, Gotland, Bornholm", ISBN 978-82-7997-243-3, 75 euros. lmf.no
Also interesting:
- Baltic Sea: Ten favourite destinations for the sailing summer
- Natural harbours: How to moor properly at the skerry
- national parks: Sweden's desert island Gotska Sandön
Christian Tiedt
Editor Travel
