Around Krk? For God's sake! Aren't you afraid of the bora?" Our jetty neighbour in Marina Punat can't understand our sailing plan. "I've been moored here for two decades and always head south. The circumnavigation of the island is certainly nice. But the wind lives in the Vinodolski Canal!" And it's not to be trifled with. While off Cape HornWind peaks of "only" 160 km/h the bora in this channel between the island of Krk and the mainland has been proven to beTop speeds of 250 km/h. That's twice 12 Beaufort!
One of the epicentres of the bora is the Senjska Vrata, the strait in the south of Krk. If you want to round the island, you have to go through it.
But don't worry: even the Bora only manages such extremes in winter.During the boating season From May to September it can reach 7 to 8 Beaufort in gusts, but rarely more. For an experienced crew on a safe boat, this should not be a problem.a manageable challenge be.
Additional security The more precise bora forecasts on the internet are the main reason for this. Their occurrence can now be predicted down to the hour. So if you have a fast motorboat, you have plenty of time to seek shelter. For example inone of the two new marinaswhich were only opened last year. The Marina Novi and the Mitan Marina, both located in Novi Vinodolski, are specially designed to withstand the wind.
At Mitan Marina, for example, boats are not moored with the boat's own ropes, but with special lines.
Meanwhile, the most extreme gusts are also measured around 40 nautical miles further south-east on the Velebit Channel. Nevertheless, the bora in the Vinodolski Channel or in the Senjska Vrata should not be underestimated: You only have to look at the landscape: bare rock, blasted by the merciless wind.into a lunar landscape. Neither tree nor shrub grows here. A cruise around Krk therefore promises extraordinary experiences: secluded anchor bays, picturesque harbours and a breathtaking landscape. The largest island in the Adriatic has more diverse faces than almost any other region in the Mediterranean.
But there are other good reasons for the round trip: Croatia's largest island is easy to reach compared to other regions of the Adriatic. From southern Germany or Austria, you can reach Krk in a day's journey by car. If you live in the centre or north of Germany, you can reach the island by plane for little money. Rijeka is served by several airlines. The journey from the airport to Marina Punat takes just half an hour. The award-winning marina is one of the best in the country and has long been the centre for nautical tourism on Krk. All of the island's charter companies use it for their fleets. From the supermarket to the nautical shop and upmarket catering, everything is on offer in the service area.
If you decide to sail around Krk, you should do so in a clockwise direction. The reason for this is that if the bora should start up unexpectedly, you will not get it from the front at an angle, but from the stern; this helps to get the boat out of the danger zone more quickly. The 60 nautical mile trip around the island can easily be completed in a week. Theoretically, it could also be done in a day. However, there are simply too many interesting places where it is worth making a stop. We present some of them here:
1 Krk
The island capital of the same name with its Roman and Venetian town centre is a must-see. Krk is one of the oldest health resorts on the Adriatic; people were already enjoying their summer holidays here in the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Worth seeing are the market square and the harbour, which is full of tourists in the season.
Since 2018, Krk has had a small, fine maritime museum called "Interpretacijski Centar Pomorske Baštine Otoka Krka" (Interpretation Centre of the Maritime Heritage of the Island of Krk). It is located in the centre of the old town in "Frankopanska 1" and is open daily from 9-12 and 19-22.
The number of guest moorings is unfortunately limited. On the city side, there are six guest berths with murings, electricity and water on the east side of the western pier. The new floating pontoon directly in front of the old town is only designed for boats up to ten metres in length. Bora and Jugo carry heavy swell into the harbour. It is also difficult to moor at the western jetty during bora, as the wind and swell push right onto the jetty.
If you are safely moored in the Punat marina in Bora, it makes sense to travel the five kilometres to the island's capital by shuttle or bus without stress. If you return to the marina in the evening, you will find the best restaurant in the region: the "Marina" specialises in island specialities such as fish, crabs and mussels, which are traditionally served here with local wine. Bookings are essential during the season: Tel. +385-51-65 43 80. www.marina-punat.hr
2 Sveti Juraj
Just two miles west of the town of Krk on the south coast lies the popular anchorage bay of Sveti Juraj. It offers good protection in northerly winds, but not in Jugo. Swells can roll into the bay during bora. There is an old farmhouse on land, but no konoba.
3 Porto Mulino
Boat harbour with beach and aqua park of the Hotel Malin in Malinska. Porto Mulino is primarily intended for hotel guests, but you can usually get a guest place. Please book in advance at reception: Tel. +385-51-85 02 34 ( malin-krk.com ). Porto Mulino has moorings with electricity and water. The harbour is well protected from all winds and is an alternative to the town harbour of Malinska, which can be full at times during the season. From Mulino, you can walk along a beautiful path along the shore for just under a kilometre to Malinska harbour. The "Mulino" restaurant is located right next to the harbour.
4 Malinska
Life pulsates in this popular seaside resort in summer. In the town harbour there are guest berths with moorings, electricity and water either directly at the entrance on the starboard side or on the floating dock to the left of the central pier. The centre pier itself must remain free for excursion boats. There are a number of restaurants, bars and cafés in the harbour. A hotel complex that is far too large is currently being built in the northern part of the harbour. The original charm of the village, which consists mainly of villas, is unfortunately being lost as a result. There are still no toilets or showers for guests in the relatively large harbour. The public sanitary facilities are located 300 metres away in a car park outside the harbour and are hardly used by boat crews.
5 Kijac Bay
A popular anchorage about two nautical miles north of Malinska. Although the bay is relatively open, you can find shelter here in bora or jugo. You anchor close to the shore at five to seven metres. The water is very clean and inviting for a swim. There is no town or konoba nearby.
6 Njivice
Very beautiful town harbour on the west coast of Krk, which has been enlarged in recent years and now offers sufficient guest berths with moorings, electricity and water. Guests can moor either on the inside of the breakwater or opposite on the town side in the new guest harbour. There are numerous shops and restaurants all around. In summer, Njivice is a popular seaside resort. The "Rivica", located right next to the old harbour, is one of the best fish restaurants on the Adriatic. In its own wine shop you will find a sensational variety of quality national products from Istria, Slavonia, Dalmatia and Kvarner. Be sure to book a table during the season: Tel. +385-51-84 61 01, www.rivica.hr
7 Omišalj
The northernmost harbour on Krk, located at the head of the deep Omišaljski zaljev. It is a club harbour operated by several clubs. Officially, there are no guest berths. As a guest, you usually moor in a free spot on the outer section of the northern jetty and report to the harbour master, who normally approves this. There are moorings, electricity and water at the jetty. However, the toilets are in such a state that it is better not to use them. The village of Omišalj is about 100 metres above the harbour and can be reached on foot in ten minutes. It is one of the most interesting ancient towns on the island. From the top, you have a sweeping view over the northern part of Krk all the way to Rijeka.
The harbour, which is protected from the bora, is the ideal starting point for entering the Vinodolski Canal from the north. Here, at the latest, you should check the usual weather websites (see page 120) to find out whether there is any danger and how strong the wind will be. Also check your boat, the safety equipment and the radius of action you have available. Even though the forecasts have become very accurate, you may still be in for a surprise. However, if in doubt, those unfamiliar with the area and beginners should rather avoid the passage, skip the next three harbours and take a relaxed trip back south along the west coast. The picturesque Lišičak anchorage (no. 11) would then be the perfect end to the trip.
8 Vrbnik
The wine-growing village of Vrbnik on the east coast of Krk towers spectacularly over the Vinodolski Canal like a fortress. Situated on a cliff almost 50 metres high, the village is one of the oldest and most beautiful in Croatia. The noble Žlahtina grape variety, which forms the basis for the white wine produced only in this region, is cultivated in the immediate vicinity.
In the harbour of Vrbnik there are eight mooring places without service at the new wooden jetty. When mooring with the stern, watch out for stones (water depth approx. 1.60 metres). Between 5 and 10 pm, guests can also moor alongside the jetty. Caution: the four metre high wall offers no protection from bora! If in doubt, you should leave Vrbnik as soon as possible. In heavy bora, the seas go over the breakwater. Where to go?
There are two new marinas diagonally opposite on the mainland in Novi Vinodolski: Marina Novi and Mitan Marina are built in such a way that they are safe even in a bora. The distance is only 6.5 nautical miles, but the course is such that you get the wind exactly from the front. If the bora has already built up a swell, it is better to head southeast before the wind and take shelter in Vela Luka (11 nautical miles) or in the harbour of Baška (14 nautical miles).
Vrbnik is definitely worth a visit: the old town centre with its alleyways, through which no car fits, looks like an open-air museum to the visitor. Almost every family in the village owns a vineyard and produces its own Žlahtina wine. You can taste the light and acidic white wine on every corner. An excellent restaurant is the "Nada" on top of the rock above the harbour with a spectacular view over the Vinodolski Canal.
9 Mala Luka
The breathtaking panorama and its location on the Vinodolski Canal make Mala Luka a special bay in the south-east of Krk. It is surrounded by the ruins of early Christian settlements. There are reasons for its literal loneliness today: There is no road access, only an arduous donkey path. In the Mala Luka, you can weather a light summer bora. You can anchor inside the bay at three to five metres and have plenty of room to swing. If a strong bora is expected, it is better to leave the place beforehand, as the gusts blow unchecked across the bay.
There is a small, quaint konoba in the north-east of the bay, but it is only open when the bora is not blowing because the owner also has to come by boat. There are six mooring lines at the jetty of the konoba, but you can only moor with small boats or with a dinghy (flat and stones).
10 Baška
The municipality of Baška, located in the south-east, is one of the most popular seaside resorts in Kvarner due to its numerous pebble beaches. In summer, the old town around the harbour is full of tourists. There are restaurants, cafés and wine bars. Every year at Whitsun, the "Crna Ovca" (Black Sheep) festival is celebrated in Baška. There is a rich programme of music and theatre on several stages along the waterfront. Lamb is served in all the restaurants and at several barbecue stands.
The harbour is largely occupied by local boats. There are seven guest moorings with murings at the outer end of the breakwater, roughly at the height of the green pier light. If yachts seek shelter in a bora, they are allowed to anchor in the harbour basin, but the direct route from the harbour entrance to the ferry jetty must be kept clear.
11 Lišičak Bay
About halfway between Stara Baška and Punat, there are several spectacular anchor bays with vertical cliffs up to 40 metres high. One of the most beautiful is Lišičak Bay, where there is a narrow beach between the sea and the rock face. The bay is a popular swimming stop, and you can also stay overnight if the weather is stable.
