1st Kungshamn / Hasselösund
The glaciers of the last ice age formed the rocks of the Swedish west coast - a labyrinth of skerries and islands of smoothly polished granite, separated by protected and navigable waterways. Some of these passages are real traffic arteries due to their central location. Hasselösund near Kungshamn, for example, connects the southern and northern parts of Bohuslän.
Moorings: south of the bridge in Kungshamn harbour or north in Hasselösund on the island of Smögen. www.vastsverige.com/sotenas , www.hasselons.se
2. marstrand
Marstrand's biggest attraction can be seen from afar, even from the sea: Carlsten Fortress. The fortress, which is unique along this coast, was built in the 17th century to protect the then important trading harbour. Those days are long gone, and today the seaside resort only attracts holidaymakers and day trippers, especially from nearby Gothenburg. No wonder, as the island of Marstrandsö, which can only be reached by ferry (and is therefore car-free), offers many cafés and restaurants in addition to the view from the battlements in the historic alleyways.
Moorings: preferably directly at the guest harbour on Marstrandsö (book well in advance!). www.marstrandsgasthamn.se
3. basic sound
Fishing used to be very important along the entire coast of Bohuslän. This is evidenced not only by the memorial stone in front of the bright white cruciform church and the red-painted sheds at the harbour with ship names, but also by the many captain's houses with a view of the water - even if only of the narrow (and partly artificial) canal that runs through the middle of the village and turns the western part (as in Marstrand) into an island. A relaxed holiday resort away from the tourist crowds.
Moorings:For guests on both sides of the harbour at the pier (alongside or with stern anchor, protected by the pier), in the Grundsunds Marina at the southern exit of the canal only on request. www.grundsund.nu/hamnen , www.grundsundsmarina.se
4. fiskebäckskil
In the north-west of the island of Skaftö, the houses of Fiskebäckskil stand on either side of a shallow bay. There is little to suggest that the village was still the home harbour for a whole fleet of cargo ships in the 19th century. Fiskebäckskil's most famous son also came from a family of sailors: the painter Carl Wilhemson, born in 1866, later immortalised the people and motifs of this coast in many paintings.
Moorings: Lyckans Slip Marina on the western shore of the bay. www.lyckansslip.se
5th Smögen
Smögen feels like an outpost in the Skagerrak. The houses, sheds and warehouses of the small fishing village at the southern end of Hasselösund seem to be hiding from the wind and weather in the shelter of its bare granite flanks, and where herring used to be salted, malt whisky now sleeps to mature - with a very special flavour, of course. Other attractions include the daily fish auction and the Kleven Nature Park with its bizarrely shaped rocks.
Moorings:Very crowded in summer! Therefore alongside in the packet at Smögenbryggan, further in the harbour with a mooring ring. www.vastsverige.com/sotenas
6 Kyrkesund
From the rocky heights above Kyrkesund, the view stretches far out over the Skagerrak. A good place for Bohuslän's most famous sea mark, four stone beacons known as "St Olav's Valar". The story goes like this: 1000 years ago, the brothers Harald and Olav fought over the throne of Norway. A boat race was to decide the matter. While Harald chose to continue across the open sea, Olav sailed through the narrow strait where Kyrkesund stands today. In doing so, he disturbed seven magical trolls who tried to stop him. But the Viking turned them into stone himself and won. Four of them can still be seen today.
Moorings:about ten guest berths alongside the wooden pier on the eastern shore of the Sound. www.vastsverige.com
7. mollösund
Windmills are a rarity on Sweden's west coast - especially when they also serve as landmarks for sailors. Mollösund's mill has even been the subject of postage stamps and was not only used to grind grain in its active days, but also - fittingly for a fishing village - to produce fishmeal.
Moorings:30 guests can moor on mooring lines in the harbour basin. www.mollosund.com
8th Skärhamn
The largest harbour on the western side of the island of Tjörn is Skärhamn, which with its 4000 inhabitants is also the regional centre. Skärhamn cannot compete with the picture-book charm of nearby Kyrkesund, but the guest harbour is excellently equipped and the supply situation is excellent. Even culture is not neglected here, with the Nordic Watercolour Museum ( www.akvarellmuseet.org ), which specialises in contemporary artists from all five Scandinavian countries.
An interesting concept, because the soft light of the north can really be captured with watercolours - even if abstract works are represented as well as landscape paintings.
Moorings:Floating jetties with stern buoys or mooring lines. www.skarhamnsgasthamn.se
9th Lysekil
After a week of picturesque archipelago harbours, Lysekil almost looks like a big city with its almost 8,000 inhabitants, modern blocks of houses, the neo-Gothic stone church and the freight terminal. There is also a harbour promenade and, of course, a large selection of bars, cafés and restaurants. And if it all gets too much, you can simply take the passenger ferry across to Fiskebäckskil (No. 4) ...
Moorings:200 places for guests on moorings with stern buoy and line at Havsbadets Gästhamn. www.lysekil.se
This district portrait appeared in BOOTE issue 09/2017
