Happy Copenhagen! There are few places in the world where people are happier. The metropolis of millions regularly makes it to the top of corresponding studies. It has even topped the list several times. The reason is simple: all urban planning efforts on the Øresund are officially centred around quality of life. Clean water, wind power, future-orientated living - many ways are being tried out that should lead to sustainable progress. As far as cyclists are concerned, the Danish capital has become such a symbol that internationally people now speak of "Copenhagenisation" when its concepts are emulated in the two-wheeler sector. However, the most important indicator of happiness is the "green part" of the city: planted roofs, mini-parks, gardening as a school subject. Nature as a neighbour, green Copenhagen! It is not a new realisation that relaxation is best found outdoors. Only the conditions for this need to be created.
More information? You can find the Baltic Sea Journal with many more pictures in BOOTE issue 05/2021 from 21 April 2021 at newsstands or online at Delius Klasing Shop.
In Copenhagen, fresh air is of course not only available in the countryside, but at least as much on the "blue". After all, not only is one half of the city surrounded by the Baltic Sea, it is actually criss-crossed by it. Together with the city's beaches, a network of canals provides plenty of space to switch off. If you want to immerse yourself in this mix of serenity and joie de vivre, all you have to do is get out on the water at Indrehavn in summer. Just like us - by electric boat.
The harbour divides Copenhagen's centre. On the western shore, on Denmark's largest island Sjælland, the representative, stately part of the city rises in keeping with its status. On the eastern shore, on the much smaller island of Amager, the alternative, independent face of the city can be seen. This side is also home to GoBoat Rental, a long floating jetty with a reception building. Although it is only early afternoon, most of the moorings are already empty and the hire boats are on their way. No wonder, as the sun is shining from the July sky. After a long lockdown, every day counts. Those who can are outside. The Havnepark lawn and the sunbathing areas of the harbour pool right next to the GoBoat jetty are already colourful with bikinis, shorts and parasols at this hour. However, after quickly registering - luckily we have a reservation - we sit on board our grey-blue number "18" shortly afterwards and are explained the basics. You don't need a driving licence here; everyone has the tiller of the Torqeedo electric outboard motor at the stern under control after just a few moments.
Sunglasses on and cast off! Our cruise begins. With a large gay pride heart in rainbow colours on the foredeck, we head into the colourful heart of Copenhagen. Orientation is easy, even this close to the water. We have a simplified map on board, and the canals can only be travelled in a fixed one-way direction. Even before we reach the six-lane Langebro with the engine purring quietly, two jet skis overtake us in a slalom. After the Lille Langebro, which only opened in 2019 and is already the third bridge reserved for pedestrians and cyclists, we point our bow towards the entrance to the Frederiksholms Canal on the left bank: Copenhagen's stately half is first on the programme today. We want to circle the island of Slotsholmen in a clockwise direction. It immediately gets crowded. Both sides are used as moorings. At walking pace, we pass island ferries on the old part, converted into floating flats, as well as the red and white wooden hull of another veteran, "Fyrskib No XI", as the golden letters on the stern reveal. The lightship is followed by a row of small pleasure craft at Murings. Deciduous trees with full crowns turn the waterway into an avenue.
But then the Marmorbron with its neoclassical arches lies ahead, and by now you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Paris. On the right-hand side of Slotsholmen is the island's namesake: Christiansborg Slot. Two predecessors burnt down and the current castle is less than a century old. The west axis leads over the marble bridge across the enclosed riding arena into the courtyard of honour, which is framed by the three wings of the building and surmounted by the castle tower. The interior is home not only to the country's parliament, but also to the supreme court and prime minister. After the Frederiksholms Canal merges into the Slotsholms Canal, Copenhagen's most unknown work of art awaits behind the Højbro. The bronze group of figures, created by Suste Bonnén, can only be guessed at - as it is completely under water. This is not far-fetched: it depicts the folk ballad of "Agnete and the Aquarius".
Shortly before leaving the canal, we take our "18" alongside the kayak bar to get some much-needed refreshments for the second part of the journey between the palm trees. Then we complete our detour and return from the Slotsholm Canal to the wide Indrehavn. Further north, with considerably more traffic: you have to keep an eye on the yellow harbour ferries, which throw a wave and don't necessarily plan to get out of the way on dead straight courses from one pier to another. The same applies to the numerous cabrio boats full of tourists, but not travelling so fast. Their main stop is in Nyhavn, the entrance to which is now on the port side. With its colourful houses and traditional ships in front of it, this canal is Copenhagen's biggest visitor attraction after the Little Mermaid. However, we are not allowed in because of the manoeuvring convertibles.
At this point, the Inderhavn also merges into the much wider Nordhavn, which ultimately leads to the open Baltic Sea at Langelinie and the fortress island of Trekroner. Two large cruise ships dominate the skyline in the distance. The water is full of boats drawing white lines through the choppy water: Day cruisers and pointed creels, a pontoon catamaran with an improvised bar, sailors, SUPs and RIBs. Families, couples, whole parties. Exciting contrasts on the shore too, alternating modern and classic architecture: old buildings, warehouses and low-energy houses side by side, coordinated in form and colour. The black glass front of the theatre comes into view on the port side, followed by Amalienborg Palace with its palace arranged in a square and the monumental rococo dome of Frederik's Church behind it. Opposite the royal city residence, exactly opposite to starboard, another building dominates the harbour: Operaen, the Royal Opera House. It was opened in 2005 and with its round glazed foyer and sharp overhanging roof, the building is one of the most impressive of its kind in the world, not least because of its spectacular location directly on the water. Operaen is a gift in the truest sense of the word: it was donated by the Copenhagen shipowner Arnold Mærsk Mc-Kinney Møller, who died in 2012.
The Holmen district consists of artificial islands. They were created in the late 17th century: At the time, a new naval base was needed further away from the centre because the wooden warships posed a major fire hazard to the city. Over time, Nyholm, Frederiksholm, Arsenaløen and Dokøen, where the opera house is located today, were built. Only Nyholm is still a naval station and home to the Royal Naval Academy. The rest of the area is used for bright, modern housing estates and art schools. We now also circle this archipelago at a leisurely pace, passing historic sheds that once housed rowed gunboats and are now home to creative minds, and the Torpedo Hall with its exclusive flats. Houseboats can also be found here, both elegant and alternative.
