Canal du Midi: France’s most beautiful shortcut – from Capestang to Marseillan

​Originally built to speed up the movement of goods between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, the Canal du Midi is now a place to slow down. We explored the eastern section of what is arguably the world’s most famous houseboat destination. A cruising report in three parts. Part 2: From Capestang to Marseillan.

​Before we set off from Capestang the next morning, we make use of the waste water disposal point. It is only in recent years that the VNF (Voies navigables de France) has developed a comprehensive network of self-service facilities for emptying waste water tanks along the canal. For decades, waste water from pleasure craft was simply discharged into the canal. To some extent, this still happens today, as there is still no general requirement for a waste tank on all houseboats on the Canal du Midi; the rule only applies to boats registered since 2008, whilst older boats are exempt under grandfathering provisions. However, there are now pumping stations approximately every 15 to 20 kilometres.

Dreams lived and lost on the Canal du Midi

With the tank now empty, we carry on. Houseboats lie side by side along the bank, some clearly permanently inhabited, with small, lovingly tended deck gardens and curtains in the portholes. Laundry flutters in the wind between the superstructures. In between lie the stark contrasts: derelict, run-down wrecks of boats, overgrown with plants and left to their own devices – there are quite a few of them here – abandoned dreams of life on the water.

After a stretch that resembles a jungle, with reeds metres high, another architectural masterpiece awaits us: the Tunnel du Malpas was the world’s first tunnel dug for a canal. It runs for 160 metres through the hill at Ensérune. Riquet had it driven through the hill in 1679–80, even though the subsoil was considered problematic and unstable and his project met with resistance. As we enter, the glaring sunlight disappears and the walls close in on us. The light-coloured, porous limestone is dotted with countless holes. In the slanting light, the rock resembles a giant sponge. A few minutes later, the bow emerges back into the daylight.

Spectacular hydraulic engineering structures

In the early afternoon, we reach what is perhaps the most spectacular structure on the Canal du Midi: the Fonseranes lock staircase. Perfect timing: the gate is just opening, and we are the third boat to sail straight in. Originally, the Échelle de Fonseranes consisted of ten lock chambers; today, seven of them are still in operation. Over a distance of around 280 metres, the locks overcome a height difference of 21.5 metres. As we descend from chamber to chamber, numerous onlookers watch the spectacle unfold. For many visitors to Béziers, the historic lock staircase is a highlight even when viewed from the shore. Two crew members from each boat go ashore and carry the mooring lines from chamber to chamber. At one point, the passage through the locks takes us under a bridge; here, the lines must be thrown back on board and retrieved again on the other side.

After the last chamber, we turn right and head straight for the Pont-Canal de l’Orb. We cross the Orb on the canal bridge, which is around 140 metres long. Before the trough bridge was completed in 1857, canal boats had to cross the riverbed of the capricious Orb. Today, the river lies twelve metres below us, whilst to our left the old town of Béziers rises up on the hill, with the imposing silhouette of Saint-Nazaire Cathedral.

Béziers – the birthplace of the canal builder

At around 3 pm, we moor at Port Neuf. Time for a stroll ashore in the birthplace of Pierre-Paul Riquet, whose town’s economic rise was closely linked to the canal. After climbing up to the old town, we make our way through shady alleyways to the cathedral and then back down via a wooden footbridge along the old fortification walls to the Orb and the Pont Vieux.

The next morning, we set off again towards the Mediterranean. Traffic on the canal is picking up slightly; the embankment is being trimmed along the bank and the water’s surface looks like a green carpet. When we stop to let another houseboat pass, we promptly catch a tuft of bank grass in the propeller. Forward, reverse, forward again – with a bit of luck, the grass works its way free on its own and, after that brief moment of panic, our boat picks up speed again.

The Agde Round Lock offers yet another special glimpse into the history of the canal. Originally built by Riquet in 1675/76, the Écluse Ronde, with its three outlets, originally provided a link between the Canal du Midi, the Hérault and the branch of the canal leading to Agde. Its unusual shape allowed boats to change direction whilst inside the lock. Although it is no longer quite round following several alterations, it remains an extraordinary structure nonetheless.

From the canal to the lagoon – the end of the Canal du Midi

Then, in the afternoon, a dramatic change of scenery. After around 240 kilometres, the Canal du Midi flows into the Étang de Thau. After days spent navigating between narrow banks, low bridges and shady tree-lined avenues, a vast expanse of water suddenly opens up before us. The water changes colour from milky brown to deep blue; on the horizon, the shore is barely visible. A sailing regatta passes us by. Immediately, a group in a rubber dinghy comes racing towards us and signals that we should not follow the buoy line directly to Marseillan, but take a detour. With a slightly anxious glance at the depth sounder, I do as I’m told and try to avoid the regatta without running aground. The water here is so clear that it feels as though you could reach out and touch the rocks beneath the bow. Fortunately, however, we finally reach the harbour of Marseillan without touching the seabed. And by this point at the latest, that Mediterranean feeling has well and truly set in: packed bars along the promenade, the scent of seafood restaurants, a cheerful babble of voices and the first whiff of sea air.

Marseillan has always depended on the water. The Étang de Thau is one of France’s most important oyster-farming areas, and oyster beds and mussel farms characterise the landscape all around the lagoon. If you fancy it, you can sample the oysters right there on the spot – they couldn’t be any fresher. But Marseillan has another culinary speciality to offer: the famous Noilly Prat vermouth has been produced here since 1813. At the Maison Noilly Prat, you can learn more about the history of this traditional aperitif – and see how the vermouth matures in oak barrels under the open sky. The blend of spices, however, remains a closely guarded secret. In the evening, we have a barbecue on board, drink wine on deck and, under the full moon, listen to the French singing drifting over to us from a party.

To be continued

​Tour information

​The Precinct

In total, the Canal du Midi is 240 km long and is lined with 63 historic locks, 136 bridges and 55 aqueducts. Our leg of the journey: a one-way trip from Argens-Minervois to Lattes. A week is a bit tight for the 185 km, which involves 17 locks. Anyone wishing to stop off for longer in between, explore local towns or simply laze about on board for an afternoon should plan for ten days – ideally with bicycles on board. Tip: Anyone crossing the Étang de Thau should make sure to empty the waste water tank beforehand. There are several places to do this on the Canal du Midi, but after that it becomes difficult. Due to the sensitive oyster and mussel farms, discharging waste water into the Étang is strictly prohibited. Crossing the Étang de Thau is not permitted when wind force reaches 4 Bft or higher.

Charter

Riverly was formed in 2026 following the merger of the two French houseboat pioneers, Locaboat and Nicols. Both companies bring decades of experience in licence-free river tourism to the table: Locaboat has been in business since 1977, and Nicols since 1986. Today, Riverly has more than 550 houseboats at 39 bases across seven European countries. Tel. +49 761 207370, www.riverly.com

Prices depend on the season, duration of the trip, route and type of boat. A one-week hire is available from around 1,120 euros in the low season; for the summer months, prices are correspondingly higher, depending on the boat and dates. Price example: A week on the latest model, the Pénichette Neo, which accommodates up to six people on the one-way route from Argens-Minervois to Lattes, costs around 5,000 euros in July. Extras such as fuel, final cleaning and other services are charged separately.

The Boat

The Pénichette Neo is a modern houseboat that combines the classic look of a traditional river vessel with contemporary comforts. Measuring 13.45 metres in length and four metres in width, it can accommodate up to six people in three sleeping cabins, each with its own bathroom featuring a shower and an electric toilet. It is steered from the interior helm or from the helm on the upper deck. Bow and stern thrusters make manoeuvring easier, particularly in narrow locks and at low speeds.

The bright saloon is air-conditioned, and the galley is modernly equipped. A wraparound railing ensures safety on deck and makes the boat suitable for families with children. On the upper deck, there is an outdoor kitchen with a gas plancha, a sink and a cool box, as well as sunbathing areas. A bimini provides shade – though it must remain folded away whilst travelling on the Canal du Midi due to the many low bridges.

​See also:

• ​From Cahors to Caïx – by charter boat on the River Lot
• ​Aquitaine – the Garonne and Baïse Canals