Canal du Midi: France’s most beautiful shortcut – from Marseillan to Lattes

​​Originally built to speed up the movement of goods between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, the Canal du Midi is now a place to slow down. We explored the eastern section of what is arguably the world’s most famous houseboat destination. A three-part cruise report. Part 3: From Marseillan to Lattes.

The Canal du Midi is now behind us – taking the boat out of the water in Marseillan

​During the night, I’m woken by heavy swells. We’re moored just behind the harbour entrance at Marseillan, where the waves roll in unchecked. I check the mooring lines, tie on an extra fender and try to get back to sleep. To no avail. One question in particular keeps niggling at me: how are we supposed to cross the Étang de Thau in this weather? The lagoon is very shallow, with an average depth of just 4.50 metres. In stronger winds, short, steep waves build up quickly. From four Beaufort onwards, the crossing is therefore strictly prohibited for houseboats without a licence. Some charter companies even prohibit sailing from a wind force of more than three Beaufort. Furthermore, thunderstorms and rain are forecast for tomorrow, Saturday, lasting into the early hours of Sunday morning.

So, with a heavy heart, we’re staying for another day and paying for yet another night in the harbour – which is quite expensive compared to our previous stops. This means our planned stopover on the Mediterranean has fallen through. Instead, we have a tight schedule to stick to on Sunday: a good three and a half hours to the bridge at Frontignan, which only opens three times a day, and then another five to six hours to Lattes – and we must get through the last lock by 6.45 pm at the latest.

Early in the morning across the Étang de Thau

Fortunately, things are looking better on Sunday morning. We set sail at seven o’clock. Outside, despite the wind now being down to just two Beaufort, there are still sizeable waves. Navigating this vast expanse of water feels unfamiliar: the buoys are few and far between, and against the backlight, the buoys next to the vast oyster beds are only visible at the very last moment. We keep to the oyster farms and are almost on our own. Around eight o’clock, the sky clears, and when we reach the entrance to the Sète Canal an hour later, the sun is beating down again as if nothing had ever happened.

Flamingos, salt pans and an unusual swing bridge

Now the final stretch begins. Just past the lift bridge at Frontignan, we enter the Canal du Rhône à Sète. In the midst of the bleak industrial landscape, we spot the first pink silhouettes in the shallow water: flamingos! Then, gradually, the rather unattractive suburban atmosphere of Frontignan gives way to a vast lagoon landscape. To the right and left of the canal lie open salt pans with ever-larger colonies of flamingos. And beyond that, separated from the lagoons only by a narrow spit of land: the Mediterranean, within touching distance! At Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone, where we’d actually planned a trip to the beach, we instead signal to the bridge keeper that we wish to pass. After closing the bridge to pedestrians, he starts up two large outboard motors at the head of the swing bridge and manoeuvres the bridge in a semicircle to the other side.

Back inland – and a fitting finale

Just past Palavas-les-Flots, we finally enter the Lez. The river becomes narrower and more winding again; the final lock lies ahead of us. And, of all times, our engine starts playing up several times – some green gunk in the cooling system provides one last little adrenaline rush. But then we’ve made it. In the late afternoon, we reach Port Ariane in Lattes. Behind us lie 185 kilometres, numerous locks, countless bridges and several complete changes of landscape – from parched fields, through shady stretches of the canal, to the open lagoon area.

To our surprise, there’s live music and a huge fireworks display in the harbour that evening. It’s 14 July – France’s national holiday. We sit on deck and bring our trip to a close with a glass of Minervois wine and music, well past midnight. A perfect end to an extraordinary week’s charter in one of the most exceptional houseboat destinations Europe has to offer.

Tour information

​The Precinct

In total, the Canal du Midi is 240 km long and lined with 63 historic locks, 136 bridges and 55 aqueducts. Our leg of the journey: a one-way trip from Argens-Minervois to Lattes. A week is a bit tight for the 185 km and 17 locks. Anyone wishing to moor for longer in between, explore local towns or simply laze about on board for an afternoon would be better off planning ten days – ideally with bikes on board. Tip: If you’re crossing the Étang de Thau, you must empty your waste tank beforehand. There are several places to do this on the Canal du Midi, but it becomes difficult further on. Due to the sensitive oyster and mussel farms, discharging waste water into the Étang is strictly prohibited. Crossing the Étang de Thau is not permitted when the wind reaches force 4 on the Beaufort scale or higher.

Charter

Riverly was formed in 2026 following the merger of the two French houseboat pioneers, Locaboat and Nicols. Both companies bring decades of experience in licence-free river tourism: Locaboat has been in business since 1977, and Nicols since 1986. Today, Riverly has more than 550 houseboats at 39 bases across seven European countries. Tel. +49 761 207370, www.riverly.com

Prices depend on the season, duration of the trip, route and type of boat. A week’s hire is available from around 1,120 euros in the low season; for the summer months, prices are correspondingly higher, depending on the boat and dates. Price example: A week on the latest model, the Pénichette Neo, accommodating up to six people on the one-way route from Argens-Minervois to Lattes costs around 5,000 euros in July. Extras such as fuel, final cleaning and other services are charged separately.

The Boat

The Pénichette Neo is a modern houseboat that combines the classic look of a traditional river vessel with contemporary comforts. Measuring 13.45 metres in length and four metres in width, it can accommodate up to six people in three sleeping cabins, each with its own en-suite bathroom featuring a shower and an electric toilet. It is steered from the interior helm or from the helm on the upper deck. Bow and stern thrusters make manoeuvring easier, particularly in narrow locks and at low speeds.

The bright saloon is air-conditioned and the kitchen is modernly equipped. A wraparound railing ensures safety on deck and makes the boat suitable for families with children. On the upper deck there is an outdoor kitchen with a gas plancha, a sink and a cool box, as well as sunbathing areas. A bimini provides shade – though it must remain folded away whilst travelling on the Canal du Midi due to the many low bridges.

See also:

• ​From Cahors to Caïx – by charter boat on the River Lot
• ​Aquitaine – the Garonne and Baïse Canal