This rivalry is so old that no one can really say when and why it actually started: two sisters on the banks of the Rhine and each found herself the prettiest! Some people think it was about long-forgotten trading privileges, and yet the rivalry is still being passionately cultivated today. Alaaf and Helau, Kölsch and Alt, one much bigger, the other nevertheless more important. Yet each of the two has so much of its own to offer that it could be wonderfully combined by those not involved: Halver Hahn with a velvet collar, for example. This doesn't mean a grilled rooster with table decoration, but a rye roll with cheese, onion and gherkin (Halver Hahn: Cologne) and a "Kurzer" made from Kornbrand and Boonekamp (Samtkragen: Düsseldorf). But what's all the preamble: it's best to visit both cities on your own keel. It's worth it!
Düsseldorf: With the anchor in the coat of arms
All Rhinelanders can party, no doubt about it, and not just at carnival. But "the longest bar in the world" is in Düsseldorf! And yet the state capital on the Düssel (yes, this river really exists!) has much more to offer than a celebrated pub culture: art, architecture and plenty of relaxed corners to relax and enjoy! What you can expect:
1. the media harbourtoday Düsseldorf's first port of call for touring skippers, owes its current appearance to the seventies of the 20th century: in a decade otherwise known for building sins, city planners decided to reduce the size of Düsseldorf's commercial harbour and redesign part of it. The proximity to the city centre was intended to attract service providers from the film, advertising and fashion industries, creativity instead of coal and steel. The former customs harbour was to become the centrepiece, soon to be occupied by pleasure craft. Major construction projects were launched around it: The Rhine Tower was completed in 1982, followed by the new North Rhine-Westphalian state parliament in 1988. The transformation has since been completed and the Media Harbour (as it is now called), with the striking metal façade of the "Neuer Zollhof", has become a modern, urban centre on the waterfront: There are a good three dozen bars and restaurants in the immediate vicinity, as well as a large multiplex cinema (UCI). The connection to the city (main railway station) is provided by the new tram line 719. www.medienhafen.de
2. the Marina Düsseldorf and the Medienhafen harbour are located on the southern (right) bank of the Rheinknie, a narrow, double bend in the river that separates the districts of Oberkassel and Bilk. The entrance to the port is about 500 metres above the Rheinkniebrücke bridge at river kilometre 743.1 RU. Because of the groynes, the buoyage in this section must be carefully observed. Marina Düsseldorf, which opened in 1976 and was the first private marina on the Rhine at the time, offers a total of 160 berths in a prime location on seven jetties (with finger pontoons, electricity, water and WLAN). Faeces can also be disposed of. Sanitary facilities in the floating harbour master's office. Mooring fees: 1.50 euros per metre. Tel. 0211-39 43 69, www.marina-duesseldorf.de. Diesel is available from the bunker boat "Vasco" in the city harbour: Tel. 0211-302 17 28, VHF 10.
3. the Rhine Park encloses the eastern part of the Media Harbour. The 240 metre high Rhine Tower rises up right next door. From the two restaurants and the viewing platform at a height of 170 metres, there are great views of Düsseldorf and the Rhine - on a clear day even as far as Cologne, 55 kilometres away ( www.guennewig.de/rheinturm-duesseldorf ). Past the NRW state parliament building (Düsseldorf is the state capital) and under the Rheinkniebrücke bridge, you walk along the Rheinwerft riverside promenade to the old town.
4 The North Rhine-Westphalia Art Collection is housed in three buildings in the city: "K21" in the Ständehaus on Kaiserteich near the Rheinkniebrücke bridge (Ständehausstr. 1), "K20" on Grabbeplatz a little to the north in the old town (Grabbeplatz 5) and the neighbouring Schmela-Haus (Mutter-Ey-Str. 3). The extensive exhibition focuses on 20th century art, with works ranging from Paul Klee and Pablo Picasso to Jackson Pollock. www.kunstsammlung.de
5. the Königsallee is the best place to see and be seen. All the top international luxury labels are represented on the "Kö". Shopping without inhibitions - if the bank account is right. www.koenigsallee-duesseldorf.de
6. the old town is just as world-famous as the "Kö", albeit more for physical consumption. 300 pubs, bars and restaurants are packed closely together and have earned the reputation of "the longest bar in the world". One of the institutions that also serves delicious local cuisine is the brewery "Zum Schiffchen" (Hafenstr. 5, www.brauerei-zum-schiffchen.de ). You drink fresh Alt, Killepitsch or even Samtkragen. Our savoury tip: oxtail ragout!
7. the old harbour is located between the Rhine and the old town directly on the Rhine promenade. A lovely place to sit outside on nice days! The Düsseldorf water level gauge (Rhine kilometre 744.2) is also located here. Equivalent water level (GlW): 105 cm, highest navigable water level (HSW): 880 cm. 0221-194 29, www.elwis.de
8. the courtyard garden is Düsseldorf's central park with extensive woodland and meadows - without a view of the Rhine.
Cologne: Into the heart of Cologne
In terms of population, the million mark has been exceeded and the status of the metropolis is visible everywhere - especially on the waterfront, where glass and steel glisten on the banks. Nothing stays the same, as the "Cologne Basic Law" says. But the people of Cologne take it easy. After all, their cathedral towers over everything around it, just as it always did -
and it's still the same old story!
1. the Rheinau harbour was the most important commercial harbour in the city of Cologne until the 1950s. Protected from the current, its 700-metre-long basin lies on the left bank in unbeatable proximity to the city centre. The entrance is located between the Severins and Deutz bridges at kilometre 687.5 LU. Watch out for upstream travellers and passenger ships below when turning into the basin! The swing bridge over the entrance is usually only passable for small pleasure craft when closed (clearance height: 8.20 m minus the water level in Cologne), but opens on the hour from 8 am to 8 pm by appointment with the harbour master (Tel. 0221-932 05 85).
In recent years, the former industrial area has been transformed into a new urban quarter, whose landmarks are the three "crane houses" visible from afar. The work was only completed last summer, and a viewing pavilion at the southern end of the harbour basin now documents its former history. The jetty access to the Köln Marina (RSK) is also located right next door.
2. the Cologne Marinaor the Rheinau-Sporthafen Köln (RSK), is the home of the Kölner Autbord- und Motoryacht-Club. Guests are welcome and may moor in places with a green sign. The 350 metre long floating jetty is equipped with finger pontoons, electricity and water and is spectacularly situated in the shadow of the modern architecture all around. Sanitary facilities, boat refuelling station (super and diesel) and waste disposal station are available. Managed event boat "harbour boat" directly at the jetty. Mooring fee: 1.60 euros per metre, plus 4 euros for electricity and water. Tel. 0221-932 05 85, www.rheinau-sporthafen.de
3. between the harbour and the Rhine Today, delicate cargo cranes and historic warehouse buildings worth seeing, such as "Silo 23" or the "Siebengebirge", are still reminiscent of earlier times - even if they have been converted into office buildings. They are overlooked by the three high-rise buildings, the "crane towers", which are certainly one of Cologne's more exclusive addresses with a price per square metre of 6,000 euros. Next door are two rather contrasting museums: the German Sports and Olympic Museum ( www.sportmuseum.de ) on the one hand, the Chocolate Museum on the other ( www.schokoladenmuseum.de ).
4. the Rhine promenade takes the shortest route from the harbour to the old town and the cathedral, which is just under two kilometres away. The jetties for excursion boats and hotel ships are located on the banks, and the Cologne water level gauge is also located at river kilometre 688: Equivalent water level (GlW): 145 cm, highest navigable water level (HSW): 830 cm. Water levels: 0221-194 29, www.elwis.de
5. the old town fulfils every wish when it comes to liquid or solid food: whether Kölsch, Mediterranean or Asian, from Himmel un Ääd to Tom Kha Gai, everyone will find something here. But it doesn't necessarily have to be Düsseldorfer Alt.
6. the Roman-Germanic Museum opens a window into late antiquity, when the Rhine metropolis was already a Roman provincial capital with the (somewhat cumbersome) name Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensum, long since shortened to "Cologne". Roncalliplatz 4, www.museenkoeln.de/roemisch-germanisches-museum
7. the Cologne Cathedral is not only the undisputed landmark of the city, but also the most visited sight in Germany (!): begun in 1248, it was not completed until 1880. World War II bombs and acid rain could not bring down the mighty Gothic cathedral. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Of course, a must! www.koelner-dom.de
8 The Rhine Park on the other hand, is perfect for relaxing: There are restaurants, a beach club and thermal baths on site. Plus the cable car across the Rhine! www.koelner-seilbahn.de
