by Michael Schlögl
In fantastic autumn weather, we roll along the motorway towards the Adriatic, surrounded by high mountains whose trees are already glowing golden in the sun. At short notice, we decided to spend our holiday on a houseboat in northern Italy.
Things are very relaxed at the base in Casale, with only a few other crews checking in. It's the last week of the season. Tomorrow, we are the only ones who want to branch off eastwards from the River Sile at Portegrandi and explore the seaside resorts of Jesolo, Caorle, Bibione and their lagoons in the hinterland. It turns out that we will be the only houseboat there. So pure solitude! We will also always be the only ones at the bridge openings. In the low season, despite fixed opening times - with the exception of the road bridge at Cortellazzo, which opens on the horn during operating hours - you have to call an hour in advance. With a few words of Italian and English, you'll be fine. Our boat, a Minuetto 6+, is extremely clean. Its hot-air heating (with shore power) and diesel heating prove to be essential during the already chilly nights.
At short notice, we decided to go on an autumn holiday on a houseboat in northern Italy
We start early the next morning and aim for the bridge opening at Caposile at 12.30 pm, as we want to make it to the River Piave and on to Cortellazzo today. So we start by travelling down the River Sile for a good two hours. Initially, the banks are still mostly lined with autumn-coloured deciduous forest. The further downstream we get and the closer we get to the lagoon, the wider the view becomes and we overlook open agricultural land and meadows.
At Portegrandi, the lock on the right leads into the Venice lagoon, but we sail past it and head straight towards Caposile via the Taglio Nuovo del Sile canal. We can already see the Venice lagoon on our starboard side. A well-used cycle path runs parallel to the canal. Shortly before the bridge, there is a jetty where we only have to wait a short time. The floating bridge opens to the side and can only be passed when it is fully open and the tow cable is at the bottom of the canal.
After taking a lunch break in the sunshine on the flybridge at the idyllic jetty in Caposile, we follow a winding oxbow lake, the Piave Vecchia, up to the village of Musile di Piave. The connecting lock to the main arm of the river there is usually open: "Just ignore the red and sail through," was the instruction at the base. We then travelled down the Piave itself for around two hours, back towards the sea. The typical fishing nets soon appear. A lamp hangs above each one to attract fish at night.
A leisurely trip on the Canale Commessera
We reach the second bridge for today, the pontoon bridge at Cortellazzo, on time and without any problems. Soon after we honk our horn, the opening is set in motion. A short time later we reach our destination: Marina Michelangelo (still labelled Nautica Boat Service on the plans). Now our on-board bikes pay off for the first time, because from here we cycle along the beach towards Lido di Jesolo as the sun sets.
We coordinate our start in the morning with the bridge at Torre di Fine, which is only about half an hour away and will be opened again especially for us if we book in advance. Beforehand, we had already passed another open lock as we left the Piave and entered the Canale Revedoli. After the village of Brian, the canal is now called Commessera. Today we only have a leisurely two-hour journey to Caorle ahead of us. It mostly takes us through fields on the other side of the dams, where tractors are still carrying out the final work before winter. There are always impressive views as far as the Alps. After a right turn, you have the Adriatic exit in front of you and turn sharp left into the Canale dell'Orologio, where the entrance to the Marina dell'Orologio is soon on your right. The slightly older, very friendly harbour master, who speaks good German, directs us to a berth opposite the harbour office for houseboats.
Lively Caorle despite the low season
Thanks to the historic old town and the (mostly German-speaking) autumn tourists, Caorle is at its liveliest so far. The sunny and sheltered guest gardens are well frequented. We get one of the last free tables and enjoy regional fish specialities. Afterwards, we stroll through the old town and take a photo of the cylindrical Santo Stefano bell tower in Piazza Vescovada without tourists. Then we stroll along the seafront promenade, the Lungomare Venezia, and marvel at the works of art and sculptures carved into the stones of the embankment. Finally, we return to the main square, where we have left our bikes. After doing some shopping, we spend the rest of the afternoon and evening relaxing on board.
The only thing standing in the way of our onward journey to Bibione the next morning is the swing bridge at Caorle. It opens at fixed times (9/11/14.30/16.30, in summer also at 18.00, but not on Saturdays and Sundays). We opt for the passage at 11am. At the end of the Canale Saetta, the firstcasoni,the typical reed-covered fishermen's huts pass us by. On reaching the Canale Nicesolo, the reed-lined waters become much wider and should offer good bathing opportunities in summer. After about two kilometres, we leave the Canale Nicesolo on the right. Via the Canale del Morto, which makes a sharp left turn at Mazarak, we reach the Canale Cavanella, which leads us into the Baseleghe lagoon. Here, for the first time, we have to stay close to the row of dolphins on starboard to avoid getting into too shallow a fairway.
Along the beach towards the setting sun
There we moor again around midday in Bibione Pineta at the jetties of Marina Baseleghe. We are moored right next to the fairway, which is only used by a few fishing boats and leads through the lagoon of the same name to the open Adriatic. Here we are almost alone with the many water birds that populate the calm waters. We register at the harbour office, which is staffed around the clock, and check in for two nights. We even manage the seven kilometres or so to the Bibione lighthouse, the Faro di Punta Tagliamento, without any problems on the well-maintained cycle paths. Until then, the beach is sparsely populated. It's easy to distinguish the tourists in their summer clothes from the Italians already wrapped up in thick coats. Everything is already preparing for winter. Only a few beach cafés are still open. On the beach in front of the lighthouse we have a great view, on the one side looking east towards Lignano, on the other we can see as far as the rows of houses in Jesolo. In the evening, we listen to the sounds of the birds in the lagoon.
Before returning to the charter base, the bridges cause us a bit of a headache as their opening times are not coordinated for a passage in this direction. So we have to wait. Luckily, however, we had already spotted a lonely jetty for a boat in Canale Revedoli about two kilometres before the bridge on the outward journey, where we spent our lunch break. Full steam ahead, we soon make our way up the Piave to reach the jetty at Chiesanuova in the last light of day. Two local fishermen, who have cast their lines here, make enough room for us and help us to moor.
Italian culinary delights at the end of the journey
The Chiesanuova pizzeria was already recommended to us at the base. While we wait for the food, we not only get to taste various specialities from the neighbouring cioccolateria, but also get the right cooking and serving suggestions in a mixture of English and Italian. Back on board, we don't regret our choice and we realise that we have to visit the cioccolateria the next day. So the next morning we buy various sweet souvenirs and, as some of the few guests at this time of day, we are even given a personal tour of the production halls - how lucky we are to have ended up here.
Once again, the weather is perfect and we can enjoy the last part of our journey in T-shirts and shorts. This time we have the lagoon to our left and the afternoon sun shines on our faces as we cruise leisurely along the canal towards Portegrandi and the last part of our journey. When we reach the charter base, several crews have already docked. We are also expected and ushered into the only free space. We are the last boat to arrive this season.
The top 3 in the district
1 Bibione: The seaside resort, which is popular in summer, also offers everything that guarantees relaxing days by the sea in the off-season: sandy beaches, nature and restaurants ( www.bibione.it ).
2 Chiesanuova: A visit to the Cioccolateria quickly turns into a sweet temptation, from Gianduia cream to organic chocolate and Zabaione liqueur ( www.cioccolateriaveneziana.it ).
3 Caorle:The city owes its nickname Little Venice to its colourful alleyways and waterways. If you can't make it to the original, take a look here ( www.caorle.com ).
OUR BOAT: Minuetto 6+, length: 13.50 m, width: 4.10 m, height: 2.90 m, draught: 0.90 m, drinking water: 900 l, diesel: 350 l, diesel consumption: 4.0 l/h, 3 double cabins, 2 heads with shower and electric WC, 2 steering positions, bow thruster, depth gauge. Information and booking: www.leboat.de
