A circumnavigation of the Adriatic’s largest island takes you to tranquil anchorages and through bizarre karst landscapes. Our three-part travel feature: Around Krk. Part 2: Along the north-east coast – Bora, Klimno and the wine-growing town of Vrbnik
Windfinder is forecasting a bora of 4–5 Beaufort, though it isn’t due to set in until around midday. We motor northwards, round the petrol stations at Omišalj and head for the Krk Bridge. No sooner have we passed under the bridge than it seems as though Rasmus has flipped a switch. Cold gusts whistle in from the north-east, causing the water to ripple.
Sheltered coves in the lunar landscape of Krk
On the port side we now have the Velebit Mountains, from which the bora sweeps down; on the starboard side, the lunar landscape, stripped bare by the cold winds. There aren’t many safe places along this coast where you can take shelter should the bora get out of control.
Klimno Bay is a safe haven. The entrance is wide and deep enough to allow passage in (almost) any weather, and it is also marked by lights. The only drawback is that there are only four guest berths at the village jetty. Alternatively, there is plenty of space to anchor. We’re lucky that there’s a space free just behind the sheltered jetty. There’s no harbour master to be seen, and it’s not exactly easy to moor using just a mooring line with the Bora gusts coming in at an angle from the side. No sooner is the boat securely moored than the harbour master turns up to collect the fee. A round 33 euros for a mooring berth without electricity, water or sanitary facilities is almost a bargain in Croatia.
The highlight of the village is the ‘ZAL’ restaurant, right next to the jetty. You sit on a terrace built out over the sea, with the evening sun on your face and a view of the Velebit Mountains. Here you can enjoy the surlice (handmade pasta) typical of Krk, served with fish, shellfish and other seafood. The quality of the food is top-notch. Unlike the seafood restaurants in the Kornati Islands or southern Dalmatia, a meal at ‘Zal’ is very reasonably priced. Junior manager Rosemarie Fanuko sighs and says: “Unfortunately, we’re not situated on a yachting route, but right in the middle of the Bora.”
Vrbnik – not the place to be on days when the bora blows
The bora is kind to us and continues to die down the next day to two to three Beaufort. We can sail on to the wine-growing town of Vrbnik without any concerns. The town lies further south on the Vinodolski Canal and has a harbour protected by a five-metre-high breakwater. But be warned: Vrbnik harbour is not safe in a bora. Even with a moderate bora, swell rolls into the harbour basin, reflecting off the rocks and causing the boats to bounce. In a strong bora, the waves break over the breakwater and you can no longer get out of the harbour.
Just before Vrbnik, the bora dies down and Windfinder promises us a calm night. We moor at the southern end of the harbour using a mooring line. A couple of friendly tourists take the stern lines, whilst we cast the mooring line ourselves. Once we’re done, the harbour master arrives and charges us 39 euros – naturally, without electricity, water or toilet facilities. Anyone wishing to moor a deep-draught yacht alongside the southern harbour pier using a mooring line can only do so in the central section, as the water is too shallow at the sides and there are rocks. There should also be a gap of at least two metres between the stern and the jetty to ensure the rudder remains clear. Alternatively, you can moor alongside behind the breakwater. However, in that case, you must cast off by 10 am at the latest, as the breakwater must remain clear to serve as an operating area for excursion steamers. Things quieten down again from 5 pm.
A climb in Krk’s wine-growing town
Vrbnik is the wine town of the island of Krk. This is where the indigenous Zlahtina grape is grown – a fine white wine that thrives nowhere else in the world. From the harbour, the path leads steeply uphill, partly via steps, into the narrow, winding old town with its Venetian architecture. The Zlahtina is pressed in the cellars beneath many of the houses. If the doors are open, you’re welcome to step inside and sample the grape juice.
Perched at the highest point of the village, the Pampanille – the free-standing Venetian bell tower – overlooks the harbour. And right next to it is the village’s most famous attraction: the terrace of the ‘Nada’ restaurant. It is situated 50 metres directly above the harbour jetty. Standing at tables made from wine barrels, people from all over the world gather here. From here, you have a breathtaking view across the Vinodolski Channel as far as the Velebit Mountains. The panorama is particularly enchanting when you let a slice of Bora ham melt in your mouth and wash it down with a glass of Zlahtina.
The Bora’s breathing down our necks yet again
After a quiet night, we have to leave the wine town in the morning. A bora of 5–6 Beaufort is forecast, which would leave us trapped in Vrbnik. We head south past the imposing rocky scenery of Krk. There are quite a few small bays here, some even with beaches and traces of historical settlement. But given the unstable weather conditions, we don’t dare to drop anchor in such a place.
We’re looking for a safe place to spend the night. To the south-east of Krk, we head into Mala Luka, a bay carved deep into the mountains that offers good shelter from a moderate Bora. It’s about five metres deep, making it an excellent place to drop anchor. Other crews know this too. Despite it being the early season, half a dozen boats are moored here.
A night amongst ancient ruins
Mala Luka is uninhabited today, and has not been inhabited even in the recent past, as it is connected to the nearest larger town, Baška, only by a donkey track. It takes a good three hours to walk there. However, Mala Luka was inhabited 2,000 years ago. All around the bay, stone ruins bear witness to its early historical inhabitants. The name of the Corinthia fortress, which towers above the former town, also recalls its ancient ancestors.
Occasionally, cold gusts of the bora sweep across Mala Luka, yet the water remains calm and the sandy seabed holds the anchor securely. Like an amphitheatre, the ruins of the early Byzantine town rise up on the slopes surrounding the bay, casting long shadows in the soft evening light. Later, the Monastery of St Nicholas stood here, which survived until the 16th century – a magical place where you can still feel the breath of history today.
To be continued
See also:
Bodo Müller
Freier Autor