New boat, new destination: after our exploration of the inner archipelago, Šibenik itself and the Krka are now on the programme. The Sv. Ante canal takes us to Šibenik and the Mandalina marina on the south-western outskirts of the town. We are surprised to discover that the marina is not really fully booked and that progress on the construction of the harbour section for mega yachts is barely visible.
Up the Krka through barren karst. This river passage is always impressive. While the large trek of boats follows the course of the river towards Prokljansko jezero and Skradin, we initially stay on course and head into the worm's mouth of the Krka towards Zaton.
Halfway there, we discover Zaton Marina on the south-west bank of the river, opened by Želko Čoga in 2011: 30 berths in front of Murings with water and electricity on a 200 metre-long pier running parallel to the shore. Reception, sanitary facilities and "Hangar" restaurant. Želko Čoga tells us that his harbour is designed more for permanent residents, but transit guests are always welcome for one or two nights.
The village of Zaton radiates peaceful tranquillity. There is virtually no sign of the huge stream of tourists travelling by land and sea towards Skradin and the Krka waterfalls. There are twelve murings on the village pier, which is around 50 metres long, and the water is at least 2.00 metres deep. There is a well-stocked supermarket in the village towards the church and the very popular fish restaurant "Konoba Porat" next to the church, run by Kresimir Zivković. (Tel.: 022-485 294).
Upstream towards Skradin. By the way: The maximum permitted speed on the Krka between Šibenik and Skradin is 5 knots. But many skippers don't seem to care. The river meanders in increasingly tight bends towards the Prokljansko jezero, an impressive inland lake measuring 5.5 kilometres from north to south and 2.5 kilometres from east to west. The Krka flows into the lake on the eastern shore, at the green-lit headland of Rt Oštrica. From here it is another 2 kilometres upstream to Skradin and its beautifully situated ACI marina.
Thanks to a new jetty (the third) in the western outer area of the harbour bay, the marina now has 180 berths, 90 of which are for day guests. However, marina director Darko Vidić is hoping for even more: two new jetties on the NE bank of the marina, a fixed pier for mega yachts and a licence for buoys in the anchoring area. Marina Skradin continues to be a success story. No wonder, when you are so close to the spectacular Krka waterfalls, which were a little weak at the beginning of September last year, as the Croatian summer was very dry.
In Skradin, the "Konoba Toni" at the end of the village street has been one of our "regulars" for years. Chef Zora Sladič's highly recommended speciality is peka in different variations. Pre-ordering is mandatory here (Tel.: 022-771 177 or 098-512 008).
On the approach to Skradin, directly below the spectacular motorway bridge, lies the now very well-known and popular Vidrovača bay with the konoba of the same name, which is run by Vlatko Petrović and his family. There are now 24 moorings for 10 to 20 yachts, including two yachts up to 30 metres in length (at the head), at the Vidrovača floating jetty. And this year there will even be water and electricity connections.
Fierce gusts of wind whistle through Skradin Marina and the Krka valley. A thunderstorm is forecast for the morning, with black clouds over the mountains that have largely dissipated by midday. But the wind is still blowing freshly from the west at 4 Beaufort as the Krka estuary releases us into the Šibenik archipelago. Heading WNW, we pounded towards Prvić and the waves.
Prvić Luka, the beautiful harbour in the south of the island, is well protected from westerly winds. A few gusts push from the side as we moor on the inside of the ferry pier in front of Muring. There is water and electricity on the pier and even a small toilet block with a shower and toilet. We pay the usual 364 kuna.
We round the island and realise that neither Prvić on the east coast nor the beautiful fishing harbour of Sepurine (west coast) has a mooring suitable for the size of our boat.
So we set course once again for the island of Kaprije, as our insider tips have not yet been discovered. One of them was the new restaurant in Medoš Bay on the north-east coast of the island of Kaprije. The bay is perfectly sheltered from the prevailing wind from the WNW; it only gets uncomfortable here in jugo.
Five buoys are anchored in the bay - without a state licence, of course - and there is a 10-metre-long floating dock in front of the paved shore, which is equipped with six moorings and can definitely accommodate three boats. Our 16-metre yacht is the third boat to find a mooring. Above the jetty is the "Kunjka" restaurant, more or less just a covered terrace. The simple style fits perfectly into the landscape.
The restaurant was only completed in June 2011, and since then Zoran Vidović, a chef who has already cooked in top restaurants in Zagreb, has been the head chef there. His specialities are fish, lamb and veal, also as peka. After a tasty dinner, we realise why the restaurant has such a good reputation. Unfortunately, it remains to be seen whether Zoran Vidović will be cooking there again this season.
The second insider tip takes us to the southern end of the Kornati islands: On the small island of Ravni Žakan, the "Konoba Žakan", housed in the former fish loading bay, has been completely rebuilt and turned into an architectural gem with top-class gastronomy. It is so modern and sophisticated that even critics find it "incredibly beautiful", but note that "such high standards and ambience do not fit in the Kornati islands". Nikša Bakulić, Managing Director of the new "Konoba Zakan", sees things differently: "The enormous popularity of our establishment confirms our concept.
And indeed, even at the beginning of September, all 30 mooring places on the 60 metre long L-shaped pier are occupied and you are well advised to book a table in the restaurant for the evening. Only those who eat in the restaurant also get electricity, which then adds 75 kuna (around 10 euros) to the (certainly not low) bill. In return, the mooring including WLAN is free of charge. There is a small shop next to the restaurant, which also sells bread.
Local products are used in the kitchen. This means that the fish, lamb, herbs and olive oil come from the Kornati islands. Everything is deliciously prepared in the tradition of the Kurnatars and is served in an ambience that Kornati nostalgics will have to get used to. Conclusion: The days of rusty iron grills as the ultimate grill for fish and meat are probably over for good in the Kornati.
With this realisation, we leave Ravni Žakan and enjoy the last 25 nautical miles back to our home port, Marina Kremik, in a leisurely displacement cruise.
Click here for part 1: The Šibenik archipelago between Žirje and Zlarin.
WHAT SKIPPERS NEED TO KNOW
Company With currently 28 yachts ranging from 12 to 22 metres in length, the Austrian company Offshore Boote is one of the largest charter providers for motor yachts in Croatia. It is part of the traditional company's philosophy to prioritise tried and tested classics in the fleet over modern, but possibly not yet fully developed new builds. However, this does not mean that new yachts are not considered at all. Offshore Boote has been based at the Kremik marina near the small town of Primošten since 1997.
Boats Due to late bookings, we had to split our charter trip between two boats in August/September last year: A Jeanneau Prestige 46, only one year old, and a rather old Yaretti 1570. Of course, the Jeanneau is sportier and more modern in its lines, but it cannot compete with the generous space offered by the Yaretti. Although both boats are offered with 6 (+1) berths, the larger crew should opt for the Yaretti.
Technical data: Jeanneau Prestige 46 Fly length 14.55 m, width 4.26 m, draught 1.20 m, engines 2 x Cummins diesel 368 kW (500 hp), water tank 570 l, diesel tank 1500 l, consumption see under prices.
Yaretti 1540 Length 15.70 m, width 4.36 m, draught 1.20 m, engines 2 x Caterpillar diesel 276 kW (375 hp), water tank 1300 litres, diesel tank 1800 litres. Consumption see under prices. Both boats are equipped to the highest nautical-navigational level as well as for daily life on board. Further information:
www.offshore-boote.at
Prices Depending on the season, the Jeanneau Prestige 46 Fly costs between 7350 and 10,500 euros per week. The Yaretti 1570 is cheaper, with weekly prices ranging from 4340 to 6200 euros. Of course, the rise in diesel prices also plays a role in the on-board budget. Eurodiesel currently costs 9.53 kuna/litre (1.27 euros) in Croatia. So you can save a lot of money by driving economically. Another savings and fun factor was, of course, the fact that our trip followed the motto "Because good things are so close". Travelling intensively in an area virtually on the doorstep of the charter base makes "mileage eating" unnecessary and is easy on the wallet.
Information and bookingOffshore Boote, Baumgasse 83, A-1030 Vienna. Phone: 0043-1-799 23 45, Fax: 0043-1-799 2345 -417, Skype: offshore-boote1, www.offshore-boote.at
Cruising guide and charts
- Bodo Müller/Jürgen Straßburger: Coastal Handbook Croatia and Slovenia. Koper - Split. Edition Maritim, Hamburg. ISBN 978-3-89225-631-1. www.delius-klasing.de
- Karl-Heinz Beständig: Croatia, Slovenia, Montenegro - 888 harbours & bays. Self-published by Beständig, Pressig.
- Günter Lengnink: Coastal Secrets Volume 9: From Biograd to Primošten. virtualStore, Munich. ISBN 978-3-00-024762-0. www.virtualstore.de
- Delius Klasing Sportbootkarten Satz 7: Adria 1 - Venedig - Rijeka - Šibenik - Drvenik V. Delius Klasing Verlag, Bielefeld. ISBN 978-3-7688-3207-6. www.delius-klasing.de
Further informationThe Croatian National Tourist Board provides a wealth of information for boaters on its website (http://de.croatia.hr or http://at.croatia.hr), some of which can also be downloaded. Some of the nautical brochures can be ordered and will be sent to you free of charge by: Croatian National Tourist Board, Hochstraße 43, 60313 Frankfurt am Main, or Rumfordstraße 7, 80469 Munich, or Liechtensteinstraße 22 a/1/1/7, A-1090 Vienna.
Cruising stages(insm)
