CroatiaThe pearls of the Kornati islands

Bodo Müller

 · 21.05.2021

Croatia: The pearls of the Kornati islandsPhoto: Bodo Müller
The Kornati Islands, an island paradise.
Stars in the sea: "On the last day of creation, God crowned his work and created the Kornati Islands from a breath of tears and stars." George Bernard Shaw. We show you the most beautiful places.

Ravni Žakan

The island of Ravni Žakan floats like a green jewel in the south of the archipelago on the deep blue of the Adriatic SeaPhoto: Bodo MüllerThe island of Ravni Žakan floats like a green jewel in the south of the archipelago on the deep blue of the Adriatic Sea

A place of longing

The island of Ravni Žakan is located in the south of the Kornati National Park and is now a popular cruising destination for boaters. In socialist Yugoslavia, when there was still plenty of fish in the Adriatic, a large pier was built where fishing trawlers and factory ships docked. On the land side there was a fish loading point and a fish restaurant with the charm of a canteen. Today, it is home to the largest and one of the best fish restaurants in the national park. Up to 20 yachts can moor at the massive piers. There is plenty of space to anchor in front of it. The stylishly furnished Žakan restaurant belongs to Marina Hramina in Murter and is considered a top address for gourmets. Be sure to book a berth and table during the high season: Tel. +385-91-726 05 79 or by e-mail: niksa@marina-hramina.com. www.marina-hramina.hr. Alternatively, you can stop off at the quaint little Konoba Larus in the north-west of the island. The small harbour can only be reached by dinghy, but there is a field with 18 mooring buoys in front of it. Tel. +385-91-150 12 19 or +385-99-190 87 05.


Koromačna

The Koromačna bay with the konoba of the same name is located in the south of Kornat and offers mooring places for guests at the pier and at eight buoysPhoto: Bodo MüllerThe Koromačna bay with the konoba of the same name is located in the south of Kornat and offers mooring places for guests at the pier and at eight buoys

Hermitage

Nowhere is social change more clearly visible than in the Koromačna hermitage. In gardens laboriously wrested from nature, the ancestors cultivated olives, figs, wine and vegetables. Today, scrubland overgrows the work of generations. Simple huts have been converted into holiday homes, and the Konoba Koromačna at the harbour invites you to enjoy fish dishes, lamb and traditional peka (please book four hours in advance). There are eight buoys for guest boats and five mooring places with electricity at the pier. Due to the limited capacity, the Czech leaseholder Zbyněk Dolejš asks you to book a berth and table by telephone: +385-91-611 32 63. www.konobakoromacna.com. There is a branch of the national park administration next to the konoba. Koromačna is relatively safe in bora and jugo. However, it can get uncomfortable in the bay during a strong maestral.

Most read articles

1

2

3


Lopatica

The well-protected Lopatica bay is located on the west coast of Kornat. Boats moor at the pontoon of Konoba BebanPhoto: Bodo MüllerThe well-protected Lopatica bay is located on the west coast of Kornat. Boats moor at the pontoon of Konoba Beban

Traditional

Sheep have been bred in Lopatica Bay for generations. The special thing is that the animals do not know green meadows, but only slopes of karstic rock. The centuries-old stone walls that can be seen everywhere in the Kornati islands are the former boundaries of the grazing areas. Only the sheep are not recognisable to the inexperienced observer because they are the same colour as the light grey stones. Because there is hardly any grass, only wild herbs, the sheep and lambs feed on thyme, sage and rosemary. This makes the sheep's milk and the cheese made from it uniquely flavoursome. The meat of the Kornati lamb is therefore also a special delicacy. Konoba Beban is said to have the best Kornati lamb in the entire archipelago. It is cooked according to tradition as lamb goulash with wild herbs or as lamb peka for two hours under the iron bell. Guest boats moor at the hotel's own pontoon with murings. The hermit family Mudronja asks you to book your berth and food two hours in advance, tel. +385-99-883 00 81. Maestral is very safe, strong Bora generates circulating winds, at Jugo you should cast off.


Smokvica

The natural harbour cut deep into the island of Smokvica offers good protection for boats and yachts
 	protection - except during jugoPhoto: Bodo MüllerThe natural harbour cut deep into the island of Smokvica offers good protection for boats and yachts protection - except during jugo

The fig island

It is the southernmost populated island in the Kornati archipelago. In the past, figs were the main crop grown here. The chessboard-like fields, which were wrested from the karst by generations of hard labour, bear witness to this. Today, the labour-intensive gardens, which can no longer feed a family, have fallen into disrepair. The aerial photograph shows the social transformation from rural hermitages to yacht moorings with a pub. The Konoba Piccolo has existed at the head of the fjord since 1995, with its own pier where you can moor with murings. The other moorings on the eastern shore are now also used by Piccolo. Please book a berth and table during the season: Tel. +385-22-64 36 88 or konobapiccolo@gmail.com. Alternatively, you can moor on the west bank at the pontoon in front of Konoba Smokvica, where there is even electricity and water at the 16 mooring places, tel. +385-91-333 00 44 or +385-98-85 87 83, konobasmokvica@gmail.com. Both establishments score with fish and seafood.


Lavsa

A deep bay cuts into the island of Lavsa, where the popular Konoba Idro is located on the eastern shorePhoto: Bodo MüllerA deep bay cuts into the island of Lavsa, where the popular Konoba Idro is located on the eastern shore

Little paradise

The island of Lavsa is located in the southern part of the small Kornati islands, which lie to the west of the main island of Kornat. While rugged cliffs and water depths of over 30 metres on the sea side make any approach impossible, you can steer far into the island from the north. In the large and well-protected bay, you can anchor at depths of two to four metres or tie up to a buoy. On the eastern shore is a hermitage where the fisherman Tedi Juraga runs the Idro tavern. It can get very crowded here in high season, so it is advisable to book a table by calling +385-99-343 87 26 or +385-91-720 82 35. The well-protected Uvala Lavsa is a small paradise where you can anchor or moor safely at night. The exception is a heavy bora, as the bay is open to the north-east. In this case, it is better to move the boat one island further west to ACI Marina Piškera.


Opat

The Opat bay below the mountain of the same name is a top address for gourmets. There are 25 mooring places in front of the Opat restaurant, also for large yachtsPhoto: Bodo MüllerThe Opat bay below the mountain of the same name is a top address for gourmets. There are 25 mooring places in front of the Opat restaurant, also for large yachts

Rock in the sea

Like a single rock, the 109 metre high Mount Opat marks the southern end of the main island of Kornat.
Those who manage the easy climb are rewarded with a marvellous view. From the top, you can see that the mountain "sticks" to the island of Kornat with a 150 metre narrow headland. One of the best seafood restaurants in the Kornati islands is located right here. Founded in 1988 by Mile Božikov, Opat is now run by his son Ante. Over three decades, the jetties for boats and yachts have been expanded, enlarged and equipped with murings. Yachts up to
25 metres in length can now moor here. The Opat restaurant has been one of the best in the Kornati islands for three decades. There is no menu, instead fresh catch of the day is prepared. The stylish cocktail bar right on the pier is a great place to round off a busy day at sea with a sundowner. If you are looking for an inexpensive fast-food restaurant, you should head for another bay. To book a table and berth: +385-91-224 78 78, www.opat-kornati.com


Piškera

With our charter boat Bavaria Sport 35 HT we sail from Piškera out onto the open Adriatic SeaPhoto: Bodo MüllerWith our charter boat Bavaria Sport 35 HT we sail from Piškera out onto the open Adriatic Sea

Marina in the park

The only marina in the Kornati National Park is ACI Marina Piškera. Strictly speaking, it is located on the island of Panitula. Piškera is the name of the larger island opposite. The ACI Marina offers the comfort of a marina, but with limited technical service due to its island location. Here you are safe in all weathers. The marina restaurant is one of the best in the ACI network. A small mini-market offers a modest range of products. Booking is not necessary as there are always places available, even in the restaurant, even in the high season. Due to the island location, water is only available from 8 a.m. to 10 a.m. and a maximum of 100 litres. The generator produces electricity from 8am to 12pm and from 6pm to midnight. Opposite the marina on the island of Piškera is the seasonal Konoba Jadra. Traditional Kornati cuisine is celebrated there in a beautiful ambience. The jetty at Jadra is only suitable for small boats. You can either take a dinghy the 250 metres there or order a shuttle from the konoba at the ACI reception.


Most read in category Travel