Sometimes things turn out quite differently. This is particularly important to bear in mind on a week-long boat trip in a coastal area of the western Mediterranean, as the weather can quickly throw a spanner in the works. We actually wanted to start from Mallorca and then head for and explore the coasts of the neighbouring island of Menorca. This was to be the continuation of our Balearic Islands cruise from theBOOTE issue 8/2015 become.
But the mistral is whistling violently from the north-west when we arrive again on the "España Emotion", a Bavaria Sport 39 HT from Premium Charter SL.
Fortunately, we have allowed for some room to manoeuvre, because with the strong wind, there is no question of leaving the harbour. We have no choice but to stay in theClub de Mar in Palma de Mallorca to wait for better weather. So we use the time to stock up on food at the Porto Pi Centro Comercial, 900 metres away.
In the evening follows aCulinary voyage of discovery. A tip leads us to the unusual Fish restaurant "La Parada del Mar" and it's so good that it has to be mentioned. The restaurant is less than two kilometres away in Cala Fornaris. At the entrance is a signa large counter with fresh fish. You choose, get a number and then pick up the seafood prepared. Simple, inexpensive and excellent quality.
The weather app promises a quiet phase
The next morning, the wind and waves have calmed down. The weather app "El Tiempo.es+", which we use to check the forecasts, promises a calmer phase. So we takeCourse for Portocolom on the east side of Mallorca, which is well protected from north-westerly winds. The route would be completed in two hours with the sporty motor yacht, but there areAttractive destinations along the way, some of which we don't want to leave out.
The beautiful Cala Piand we leave the marvellous sandy beach of Es Trenc to port. Instead, we want to take a closer look at the picturesque Cala Figuera. The small bay has a narrow finger that runs deep into the sea, whereTraditional fishing boats and old boat garages still offer the original backdrop. There are only five berths on the outside of the pier at the entrance. If you find a space, you can moor with the stern to the pier and ground line for a shore leave.
A stroll through the idyllic fishing harbour is just as recommended as a stop at one of the many restaurants for lunch. There is a great temptation to stay here overnight.
But we want to go further and set course for Cala Mondragó, just two nautical miles to the north-east.The barely built-up natural bay is one of the most beautiful in Mallorca - and also one of the most crowded in summer. If the weather is right and there are no swells from the south-east, you can enjoy aBathing stop on white sand can be anchored. We can only stay overnight if the weather is perfect, as the bay is quite open. As the wind and waves have picked up again, we decide to continue our journey after one round.
Without further ado, we change the plan and run a
When we reached the entrance to the harbour three nautical miles to the northeastCala d'Or As we pass the harbour, a considerable wave has built up and the wind is whistling. Without further ado, we change our plans and stop here for the night. Portocolom is relatively open and, with its large expanse of water, offers moreRisks for a restless night. We prefer to moor at the new jetty at the very end of the very long and excellently sheltered Cala d'Or.
We are followed by a few more yachts, which have probably also broken off their day's journey early. The 57 euro mooring fee per night seems quite steep for mid-May.
The bay ischaracterised by upscale yacht tourismwhich hardly ever takes place in the low season. So we set off on a walk to the nearby town centre. We reach the town centre after a quarter of an hour. The town centre is noticeably thriving on mass tourism, and the pedestrian zone is lined with countless restaurants with sprawling menus.
Despite the huge selection, what is recognisable on the plates does not seem very attractive - and the prices are just as high.
So we head back to the bay for dinner. The few open restaurants - with a fine ambience and consistently high prices - are mainly occupied by a posh clientele. TheQuality of the foodwhich we are then served, unfortunately does not stand up to the external impression in any way and is more reminiscent ofCanteen level. The next day, having gained some new experiences, we continue our journey to the north-east ...
Of course, we don't want to miss the beautiful harbour of Portocolom. After four nautical miles, the short leg into the large natural bay is over. If you want, you can anchor here or moor at one of the three new floating jetties.
There are numerous restaurants along the promenade, at least some of which create a beautiful picture with the classic fishing boats moored south of the jetties.
During the tour, we meet the friendly harbour master for an informative chat. It quickly becomes clear that he doesn't like the neighbouring bay at all. He also criticises the price level in the private marina in Cala d'Or.
We would have paid around half the price for an overnight stay here. It's nicer here anyway, even if it's not quieter in bad weather.
As we still have some plans, we set off again after a tour and a snack. On the way, we take a look at the harbours of Porto Cristo and Cala Ratjada. An overnight stay can also be planned here.
As we pass the Cap des Freu between Mallorca and Menorca, it is still relatively calm close to the shore. Further out, however, higher waves are definitely recognisable. As the weather is expected to improve the next day, we stick to our plan of spending the night in Pollença so that we can better assess how the weather will develop.
As we are travelling in calmer waters in the large bays on the north-east coast, we stay close to the coast and make a short stop at the Alcúdiamar marina before entering the Port de Pollença in the afternoon through the very scenic bay.
This is part of the cheaper network of Ports IB which we immediately notice with the harbour master:
We are not even charged 24 euros for the berth here, which confirms the statement of his colleague in Portocolom. The municipal marinas also have favourable rates. Ports de Balears if there are free places.
To be on the safe side, we top up the diesel tank. This is not absolutely necessary, as the "España Emotion" has a 950-litre long-distance tank, but you never know. The fuel nozzle stops at 409 litres. With around nine hours of operation and very mixed driving, just 45 litres ran through the pipes every hour. With efficient cruising, you can expect twice as much.
Port de Pollença is also geared towards tourists, but in a pleasant way. The fact that the harbour has a long history and has developed from a fishing village is recognisable in its basic features.
But the history of the settlement is much older. After conquering Mallorca around 70 BC, the Romans established their "ciudad romana de Pollentia" and thus their main harbour in the area. Palma, which had been founded around 40 years earlier, played a subordinate role at the time.
After the Roman period and the foundation of Alcúdia by the Moors, the settlement lost its importance and disappeared. The ruins were only rediscovered in the 16th century.
Today's Pollença is located a few kilometres inland from the coast. Unfortunately, we don't have time to explore the whole region, so we limit ourselves to the area around the harbour. There is a great variety of restaurants of all levels.
The promenade, along which we stroll before dinner, has a lovely ambience. In the harbour area, it is also lined with well-maintained llaüts with their classic Mallorcan boat shape, most of which are privately owned, but some are also chartered out.
The next morning, the sun in the gloriously blue sky promises a perfect day, but the forecast raises doubts: another period of strong winds is imminent. In concrete terms, this means that the crossing to Ciutadella de Menorca is possible today without any problems and the bay would be a safe harbour even if the wind picks up.
The problem is that the coming strong wind phase is associated with waves several metres high in the channel and is expected to last for several days.
In other words: We would come to Menorca, but not back.
However, the long-discussed alternative is drivable. We stay on Mallorca and aim for Port de Sóller on the north-west coast as our next destination. Then we hide from the coming strong north-westerly wind in Port d'Andratx the next evening to make our way back under the protection of the south-west coast.
The 35 nautical miles to Port de Sóller, the only harbour on the Serra de Tramuntana, which is quite rocky with steep mountain ranges and high mountains, are quickly completed. Guest berths are available in the municipal harbour section of the beautiful natural bay, which also belongs to Ports IB.
Alternatively, moorings are available in the Tramontana marina. It is hard to miss the fact that fishing is still important here. Some fishermen are unloading their catch at the Moll Pescador. We don't want to miss the spectacle. The numerous smaller boats belonging to families who only occasionally cast their nets also contribute to the harbour's image.
If you have time, you can take a trip on the historic tram to the very unspoilt village of Sóller, three kilometres inland. Longer hikes through the marvellous mountain landscape can also be planned.
As the next day's route to Port d'Andratx is quite short at 25 nautical miles, there is enough time for a lunch stop in Sant Elm. The picturesque bay is located on the south-western tip of the island and offers a variety of buoys.
At the height of summer, it is very crowded here. We get the dinghy ready for the shore leave. The range of restaurants on the promenade is enormous, including the view of the bay and the island of Sa Dragonera. The uninhabited island used to be a hideout for pirates and is now a nature reserve.
Excursion boats offering guided tours of Dragonera depart from Sant Elm. In the early afternoon, we set off in the direction of Port d'Andratx. In the well-protected harbour of the large natural bay, there is not much to fear from the strong north-westerly winds and the way back to Palma along the coast should not be a problem.
The town harbour of Port d'Andratx is located directly behind the large pier on the port side. There are plenty of moorings available here in the low season. The marina also belongs to the Ports IB. Guests may moor for a maximum of three days.
As everywhere on the Balearic Islands, you need to book well in advance for the high season. The promenade with the restaurants can be reached on foot through the bay, as the centre is located on the eastern side. The actual town of Andratx is again located inland.
The reason is simple: it used to be safer, because settlements located directly on the coast were easier for pirates to attack.
The area is known for its hiking trails. If you have time, you can walk the first stage of the GR 221 long-distance hiking trail, which starts in Port d'Andratx and leads to the ruins of the former Trappist monastery of La Trapa after a good three-hour walk via Sant Elm.
For the last night, we treat ourselves to the luxury of the island's hippest harbour, Port Adriano. Following its renovation, which has doubled its surface area, it is almost unrecognisable. The old pier has been replaced by the new commercial and catering complex that separates the old and new basins.
Visitors can also pursue other hobbies here. Scuba divers are attracted by the nature reserves around the Malgrats Islands and the small island of El Toro with its excellent diving sites. Golfers will find three courses in Santa Ponça.
On the last day, the return journey remains: the harbour of Palma is in sight after 14 nautical miles. A stopover at anchor is worthwhile in Portals Vells, also known as the three-finger bay. However, we don't leave Palma de Mallorca without a visit to the " Basic Bar Restaurante ".
The Austrian-run restaurant serves very reasonably priced, top-class multi-course menus. There could hardly be a better way to round off a cruise around Mallorca. And we'll stay tuned for Menorca...
