The lock opens the gate to an inland idyll. A moment ago, the journey was characterised by salt air, wind, waves and vastness, now it's calm, forest and dyke. The jackets were already on the hook in the lock. Because here it was cosy and felt ten degrees warmer than usual on the German North Sea coast. As we approached Wilhelmshaven, we were able to orientate ourselves by the cranes of the Jade-Weser Port, tall chimneys and the LNG terminal at the head of a long pier, a strikingly different, industrial backdrop.
Another world begins behind the lock
But then we turned to port, into the outer harbour of Hooksiel and the lock into another world. For a good half an hour, we chugged through the inland deep, which everyone here calls the "Hooksmeer" for short, to the old harbour in the small village of Hooksiel. We pass a shipyard on the starboard side, a water ski facility, a surf school and three marinas. To port, nothing but forest, reeds and, in the narrowing fairway, sheep on the dykes, almost within reach. In the old harbour at the end of the Hooksmeer, pleasure boats and a flat-bottomed ship are moored on the jetty below historic packing houses from the early 19th century. These bear witness to the former prosperity of maritime trade, crabbing and fishing. Markings on their walls show the historical high tide levels in times when the small harbour town was still defenceless against the North Sea tides.
We are in Friesland, and it is not just the name of the region that reminds us of our Dutch neighbours to the west. They have demonstrated on a grand scale how land and inland waters can be reclaimed from the sea using dykes and polders. In Hooksiel and the surrounding area, they followed suit in the 1970s. Previously, a tidal channel led to the old harbour, which was once important for trade and fishing and where the first pleasure craft found a home in a mud hole in 1967.
Old and lovingly restored village centre
In the past, it was the tides that determined calm and activity. Today, the seasons set the pace on a large scale and the weather on a small scale. On a sunny Saturday in May, guests from the restaurant of the same name sit in front of the Packhaus with a drink under parasols, while others stroll around. They all look down at the activity on the boats in the old harbour: Life on board on a beautifully framed presentation plate. The berth for one night is included in the lock fee; this service is paid for by largely foregoing a private life on deck.
A stroll through the small town seems the better option: fish restaurants alternate with ice cream parlours, cafés, typical souvenir shops and shops selling maritime clothing, including a yellow Frisian mink. The businesses are housed in small, old and lovingly restored houses that were once home to fishermen, captains and craftsmen. The most eye-catching is probably the richly decorated former town hall, whose roof is adorned with an onion dome with a gleaming gold wind vane - a gift from a British captain in 1760 as thanks for the repair of his ship in the Hooksiel shipyard. Today, a little boy presses his nose against the window of the shell museum under the crowned roof and marvels at the exhibits from all over the world. In the artists' house next door, painters from the region exhibit their art. Information boards in front of the houses tell the history of the village. The old town centre is clearly laid out.
Also interesting:
With every step out, the surroundings become a little more functional and rustic. North German solidity instead of the sophisticated chic of a seaside resort, as we know it from the Baltic Sea or some North Sea islands. It's not easy to choose from all the restaurants for dinner, but in the end it's all about the look. The "Alte Schneiderei" is housed in a low, historic building with red clinker bricks, a green wooden gable and similar doors.
The inside lives up to the promise of the outside. Solid wooden furniture and a bar with the typical blue and white Frisian tiles stand under the beamed ceiling. Original cosiness without the stuffiness. The kitchen also follows suit. Soups, sumptuous fish platters, traditional dishes and lots of fried potatoes find their way to the tables without a break. There are also fish sandwiches and snacks for those with a smaller appetite or budget, coffee and cake in the afternoon or a cosy tea party in an informal atmosphere.
Back in the Old Harbour, a skipper travelling alone, sitting in the cockpit with a beer, sounds the harbour basin with loud shanties from the tape. The neighbours assure us that this is not always the case. They come from Wilhelmshaven and often like to spend a weekend evening in the tranquil harbour town. In fact, peace returns after sunset. The solo sailor has crawled into his bunk, a few strollers pass by on their way to their holiday flat or the campsite.
The precinct is top class, but doable
The next morning, the free mooring time is over, but the Hooksmeer and its surroundings have not yet been fully explored. The lock master had assured us the day before that there should be berths available in the Hooksiel marina. In fact, there is no need for dense crowds in the packet, not even long odysseys through narrow pit lanes. Some of the 700 or so berths are free. It would be difficult to choose if someone wasn't already waving in a friendly manner at the jetty, taking the lines and answering the expected questions from guests with lots of good tips about the area.
The fact that some guest berths are free is not surprising at first, as sailing in tidal waters is considered the pinnacle of pleasure boating, more challenging than canals or rivers, the Baltic Sea or the Mediterranean. After all, the weather can be unpredictable and there can often be a bit more wind than desired, and tides can dictate the trip planning.
And yet it was evident out on the Jade: The changeable nature of the atmosphere also means that it rarely stays permanently bad. The North Sea itself and the Jade in particular have many faces. They can become rough when there are six Beaufort or more against the current. This battle of the elements produces short, steep waves. On the other hand, when wind and sea play together, you glide swiftly along on smooth water. Harbour porpoises make their home here and occasionally play around the boat. Seals lie lazily in the sun on the sandbanks at low tide. Mudflats sometimes seem so close that you look anxiously at the echo sounder.
But playing with the tides can be fun if you make use of them. From Wilhelmshaven with the outgoing water towards Hooksiel, the log shows a good two knots more speed over the ground than through the water. A free push from the elements - the result of planning a trip in the spring with plenty of anticipation.
Tips from a professional
Benno Wiemeyer, former CEO of the Lower Saxony Motorboat Sports Associationis also something like the country's tidal area ambassador. He has lots of good tips and highly recommends Hooksiel. "For me, it's one of the most beautiful places up there. Everything is still a bit old-fashioned. Sure, there's tourism there too, but it's all kept within limits. If you like, Hooksiel reflects a really beautiful old fishing village."
And that's not all - it's also an ideal stopover on the way to Bremerhaven or the East Frisian Islands. "If we want to go up to the islands, the first port of call is Hooksiel. It's ideal, especially if it's your first trip to the tidal area, because the stages aren't very long and are easy to manage, even if the weather isn't quite ideal," he explains.
The situation is completely different on the other side to the west: if you start your island trip on Borkum, you may have to sail 50 kilometres in one go. The seaside resort is also the ideal starting point for the journey to Bremerhaven, as the tidal current pushes the boat comfortably across the Hohe Weg, the mudflat fairway between the Jade and Weser rivers. Even Helgoland can be reached from here in a few hours in good weather.
Perhaps it is these good sailing conditions that make owners cast off their lines in summer and make their berths available to guests. You don't want to be on your way out again so quickly.
Hooksiel offers more than clichéd North Sea grey
Many small paths lead along the Hooksmeer. Surrounded by dense greenery that looks like a small jungle just a few steps to the right or left, this is a great place to walk or cycle. Sometimes with a view of the water, then again in the semi-darkness between tall trees and bushes, until you reach the dyke on the coast. Behind it lies a long sandy beach. On a summer Sunday, children play in the sand or with the gently rolling waves. Adults doze in the sun or enjoy coffee, cake and cold drinks in a beach chair at the beach bar. To the east, a long pier separates the outer harbour from the Jade.
Behind her, the fish snack bar at the harbour is packed. "To'n Fischhus" is the name of the shop with the appearance of a mediocre chip shop, garnished with maritime artefacts. But it must have a good reputation, because a queue of hungry people stretching down to the stairs in front of the entrance moves at a snail's pace towards the counter to order. You can't help but overhear during the wait that the bestseller must be the fried fish. And it's true: what comes out in cardboard trays is fresh fish in large pieces, not uniform convenience goods. It can also be enjoyed outside with a view of the tranquil outer harbour cinema.
Quaint fishing boats are moored against the sheet piling, pleasure craft circle around while waiting for the lock to open. You have to take in this small world of great diversity and let your thoughts settle. Where better to do this than in a quiet anchorage? As we entered the inland depression, we passed the small island and observed a few boats at anchor behind it, their crews dozing in the sun or bathing - a nice option for a quiet night under the stars. Then we could continue on, perhaps across the mudflats to Wangerooge, another special place. But that's another story
Oversailer for the Hooksmeer
- Fore harbour and waiting area for the lock coming from the sea incl. waiting jetty
- Sluice
- Hooksiel shipyard with its own gantry crane, indoor and outdoor winter storage facilities
- Water skiing facility
- Surf school
- Marina Hooksiel and Sail-Lollipop Regatta Verein (SLRV), in the bay to the east of Wilhelmshavener Segelclub
- Water sports club Hooksiel
- Old harbour with guest berths
Precinct information
Access road
The green buoy H3 in front of the harbour entrance is passed to the south. On the land side, two beacons (hourglass) mark the ideal line into the harbour. Watch out for cross current: Although the entrance has a target depth of 1.60 metres at low tide, there are tidal ridges on both sides. There is a restricted area around the LNG terminal on the pier that must be observed at all times.
Sluice
The train runs from Easter to the end of October. In the main season at weekends every hour from 8am to 12pm and 2pm to 8pm, on weekdays five times between 8am and 7pm, or several times in succession during busy periods. Guests pay the fee at the top of the tower to the lock keeper, who also issues keys for the marina against a deposit.
Berths
Anyone travelling to the Hooksmeer as a guest will always find somewhere to stay: in the marina run by Wangerland-Touristik or with one of the clubs - even for several weeks or months. However, the berths at the shipyard directly behind the lock are reserved for customers. Here are the web links of the marina operators:
- Marina Hooksiel: wangerland.de
- Wilhelmshaven Sailing Club: sailingimwsc.com
- Sail-Lollipop Regatta Association: sail-lollipop.de
- Water sports club Hooksiel: wsv-hooksiel.de
Leisure time
Water sports are a top priority at Hooksmeer: a surfing school offers windsurfing courses inland and kitesurfing out at sea. Beginners and experts alike will get their money's worth at the water ski centre. Those who prefer dry sports will find tennis courts, a horse racing track and pony hire close to the marina.
Charter
If you would like to get a taste of the area or sail from here to the East Frisian Islands, you can charter cabin cruisers in various sizes from the Nordsee sports boat hire service. If desired, also with driving training. sportbootverleihhnordsee.de
