We sailed right through the heart of Europe. Where the common ground is present, where the maxim of the European Union is tangible: "United in diversity". We travelled through France, Germany and Luxembourg without noticing any dividing borders.
Our journey took us to Lorraine and the Saarland, through Rhineland-Palatinate and into Luxembourg - regions which, together with parts of Belgium, form a close alliance across national borders, the "Grande Région". The Moselle and Saar are the interfaces of this "Grande Région". We took both rivers under our keel, as well as the Saar Canal and the Rhine-Marne Canal. We discovered a cultural area that has more to offer than just top vineyards.
Niderviller, France. On a Friday afternoon in June, we take over a "Kormoran 940 (3+2)" from Kuhnle-Tours, which will take us via the Rhine-Marne Canal, Saar Canal and Saar to Sierck-les-Bains on the Moselle. Around 232 kilometres and 40 locks lie ahead of us, a considerable distance for which Kuhnle-Tours recommends seven to ten days of cruising. We estimate one week for the tour, as we have already familiarised ourselves with the route to Saarbrücken (see BOOTE 10/08).
Immediately after the briefing, we cast off in Niderviller. It's only two and a half hours of lock-free navigation to the "Port du Houillon" at kilometre 2 LU of the Saar Canal - perfect as a prelude. But wait, we almost forgot: In order to pass through the locks on the Saar Canal, you have to register at the first lock the day before - by 5 p.m. according to the official signposting. And now it's almost five. The telephone number (tel. 0033 (0) 387 25 03 16) can be found in the on-board documents. We quickly type the number into our mobile phones. A friendly voice immediately answers in German: "All right. Are you from Niderviller? Then you must be from Kuhnle-Tours ..." The area is a charter stronghold.
In the "Port du Houillon" we are - just like back then - in close contact with nature. The small marina is once again very welcoming and, looking forward to the next morning, we place our order for a fragrant, crispy breakfast baguette with the harbour master.
The next day greets us with clouds. The air is clammy, raindrops are beading on the railings and windows. Our boat, which goes by the meaningful name of "Newt", bobs along in the mist that creeps over the water. We cast off early and are standing in front of the first "écluse" at 8.30 a.m., just in time for the lock keeper's shift.
From the junction of the approximately 63 km long Saar Canal from the Rhine-Marne Canal to its confluence with the Saar at Sarreguemines (Saargemünd), we have to pass through a total of 27 locks. Locks one to 14 are operated by an "éclusier" who will accompany us ashore. Locks 15 to 27 are operated automatically. There are a further four locks on the Saar from Sarreguemines to Saarbrücken, three automated and one operated.
As we stand expectantly at the lines in lock number 12, the lock keeper only gives us a caring glance. Then Monsieur gets on his moped and rattles off without having achieved anything - pause de midi, lunch break. There we are in the well-filled lock chamber, with a view of the Mittersheim pond. The mouse grey of the morning has disappeared, the sky is deep blue again.
The light greenery to the right and left of the canal chirps and chirps and chirps, the water gurgles in the lock. We tie up and put our feet up. It's a shame that Monsieur comes rattling back after just an hour.
At lock 14, the "éclusier" hands us a lemon-yellow box and says goodbye. With the help of this box, a remote control, we can set the next locks in motion ourselves. Button "A" (from the French en aval, meaning downstream) prepares the descent and is crucial for us; button "M" (from the French en amont, meaning upstream) would be relevant for the ascent. After pressing a blue bar located in the chamber, the actual locking process begins. In the last lock before Saarbrücken - Güdingen - a lock keeper will be on duty again.
It's time to round off the day. The restaurant "L'Ecluse 16", which serves such wonderful things as truffle risotto and cinnamon-chocolate fritters, is located directly on the canal underneath lock 16. There is a proper jetty opposite the restaurant, which can be reached via a bridge.
We moor for the day in Bissert harbour between locks 17 and 18 (Saarkanal km 33 LU). The modern jetties and the sanitary facilities ashore are in tip-top condition when we visit. We walk about 15 minutes to Harskirchen, a friendly but sleepy provincial town. We come across a small shop and places to stop for refreshments such as the down-to-earth "Belle Vue".
You can find the full travel report by Ingrid Bardenheuer in the May issue of BOOTE, which is available everywhere from tomorrow (27 April).
