Burgundy is not a country, Burgundy is life." Former French President François Mitterand is credited with this glorifying saying, and even if it is a hint of local patriotism - Mitterand came from Burgundy, where he was "mayor" of the small town of Château-Chinon - no one can escape the magic of this primeval French region, where savoir-vivre accompanies everyday life and dominates the rhythm of life.
And as a visitor, you are only too happy to follow this "knowledge of living" when you let the peaceful landscape pass you by on the Saône. Sensual pleasure as a silent companion. A tour for the soul, on the one hand. On the other hand, an immersion in the fullness of life. The two banks of the river may not be lined with Mâconnais, Côte Chalonnaise or Côte d'Or vineyards, but you can literally smell them behind the flat landscape, which is shared by densely wooded regions and lush green meadows, where the famous Bresse chickens scratch, geese cackle and creamy white Charolais cattle graze.
A promise of culinary delights par excellence. And then, at the latest, one willingly follows the Burgundian table greeting "bon appetit et large soif", which means that in addition to a good appetite, one also wishes for a good thirst.
thirst. And gourmet chef Fernand Point left no doubt that butter dominates the art of cooking in Burgundy, as the following saying is attributed to him:
"Butter, give me butter and more butter!" And indeed, it is impossible to imagine Burgundian cuisine without butter.
Tasty butter also "followed us in our wake" on our journey from Branges to Gray, whether in restaurants or at the bakery. We willingly adapted to our navigable home. To the delight of our taste buds, to the detriment of our "line".
A thunderclap start Because charter boats are usually handed over on Saturdays and we are travelling from the far north, we cannot avoid an overnight stay. Branges is out of the question as a harbour of departure. So off we go to neighbouring Louhans, the arcade-blessed capital of the Bresse region.
We stay at the "Cheval rouge", simply situated on the main road, because nothing else is available. Too bad, because we would have liked to spend the night at "Le Moulin de Bourgchâteau", idyllically hidden in a park not far away. But the next day, the lunch menu in this stylish former watermill on the Seille river made up for it. The kitchen's recommendation? Well, I wonder what?
Bresse chicken to get us in the mood for the next few days, which will not only bring us an unforgettable culinary boat tour. The charter station in Branges with its hard-working family clan gives us an unmistakable welcome the following day with short but all the more violent claps of thunder and a passing thunderstorm.
Afterwards, the narrow harbour basin is a hive of activity, as the handover of the boats is well behind schedule.
Anyone who hasn't taken advantage of the charter station's favourable pre-purchase service can now at least use the time to fill the gaps in their fridge.
Bakers, butchers, vegetables, wine and a well-stocked corner shop open up opportunities for last-minute bunkering. Our "embarkation" is also delayed. But does that matter? From now on
time and let ourselves drift, even if the distant destination of Gray requires a certain amount of time planning. After a short briefing, we set off in the late afternoon, because the 200 kilometres and 12 locks ahead of us to Gray don't allow for a leisurely cruise.
Anyone planning an adventure trip should allow at least 14 days, as the 35 or so romantic kilometres on the Seille to the mouth of the Saône invite you to glide along at a leisurely pace; small spots such as Bantanges, Loisy, Cuisery with the hotel terrace of the "Hostellerie Bressane", Ratenelle and also La
Truchère invite you to linger longer.
We don't reach the first lock, Loisy, which is waiting for us that evening. "Rain, rain, no visibility," we note in the logbook. We moor for the night at a small jetty in Port Chevreuse and the next day begins as the previous one ended: rain showers, downpours, drizzle in a lively succession. But we are accompanied by pure nature: fields of water lilies, lush shoreline vegetation, with grey herons, ducks and other water fowl in between.
There is work waiting for us at the Loisy lock: self-service, and because there is no other boat in sight, we two "boaters", i.e. my wife and I, can't expect any help. Because a driver in the valley ahead of us didn't close the lock gates again after passing through the lock, we have to do double the manual labour: close the lower gates - open the upper gates - flood the chamber - open the upper gates - drive the boat into the chamber - close the upper gates and gates - open the lower gates - the water in the lock chamber flows out until the lower river level is reached - open the gates - drive out - close the gates and gates again.
close the gates and sliders again.
What sounds like a huge slog is actually a lot of fun in the end, if it weren't for the rainwater that is now rising in our boat shoes and causing us to "sink". At the next two locks, unforeseen assistance awaits us. In Cuisery, bored people from the nearby campsite cheerfully crank the lock gates open and closed.
The last lock, La Truchère, immediately before the Seille flows into the Saône, is operated by a pretty lock keeper mademoiselle. In Tournus, founded in Gallo-Roman times and today our destination for the day, there is already a rush for berths at 2.30 pm. We moor comfortably in the second row on a
"giant bucket" of the charter company "Pavillon Saône" on the Quai de Verdun, because the moorings on the Quai du Nord on the other side of the road bridge are also occupied.
Meanwhile, a passing Swiss man berates the "impudent charter captains" who spread out without consideration by not getting close enough to the boat in front of them. He is right, but in France, where driving licences are not compulsory, charter captains are predominantly inexperienced and often
overstretched. For them, the motto is "moor, no matter what". There is no room for seamanship considerations.
In Tournus, at least nobody has starved to death yet, they say. Just a few steps away from the jetties, the Quais du Midi and de Verdun are lined with one food stall after another, including "Le Grill", "Chez Momo" and the "Café de la Marine". If you prefer something special, make a pilgrimage up to the "Greuze". With Yohann
Chapuis is a star chef at the cooker here. successor to the famous old master Jean Ducloux, who founded the restaurant in 1947 and
Ducloux, who founded the restaurant in 1947 and cooked for famous people such as François Mitterand, Jean-Paul Belmondo and others.
A stroll through the town tells us that this historic place, like our next destination, Chalon-sur-Saône, deserves more than just one day. Unfortunately, as already mentioned, a week's cruise does not allow for extensive exploration. To gain time, we set off early, with only a single lock on the way today, called "Ormes 4".
A huge structure with professional operators. Light signals regulate access, and when the lock keeper gesticulates wildly out of the tower window with a lifejacket, I realise:
Lifejackets are compulsory, no lock gate will move without a lifejacket on man, woman, child and cone. We reach the harbour at Ile St. Laurent by midday.
CChalon, which Julius Caesar used as a supply depot during his campaigns in Gaul, impresses with its picturesque architecture from many centuries. Following a recommendation, we visit the Musée Niépce
on the Quai des Messageries. The man with the strange-sounding name Nicéphore Niépce, born in Chalon in 1765, was one of the pioneers of photography. This is reflected in the variety of exhibitions at this museum,
which even features the world's first camera.
If you want to feast, you don't have to walk far, but you are spoilt for choice. Rue de Strasbourg, close to the harbour, is home to around 30 restaurants, from "da Nunzio" to "Chez Margot" at the other end of the street. Faced with this overwhelming choice of gourmet temples, we opt for a home-cooked meal prepared in the lavishly equipped galley.
The store to be stormed is called "Carrefours". The supermarket of superlatives behind the harbour master's building is practically calling us to go shopping, especially as an approaching thunderstorm forces us under the roof of the department stores' (and today is not Monday). We are overwhelmed by the range of fresh produce on offer - a land of milk and honey. Unsurprisingly, we end up doing more shopping than planned. The subsequent menu on board no less so.
The next morning, sleep is no longer an issue when my wife wakes me from my dreams at the crack of dawn. The 25 kilometres ahead of us to Verdun-sur-le-Doubs hardly justify this disturbing act of rest.
... Anyway, we pass Port d'Allériot too early to stop at "Les pieds dans l'eau" (feet in the water) right on the banks of the Saône.
in the water) right on the banks of the Saône. At least our feet stay dry.
But the next destination is calling: Verdun-du-le-Doubs, the site of a former charter base, where - after the boat hire companies left the field - small-town tranquillity has returned and now provides the harbour at the mouth of the Doubs and Saône with sufficient mooring facilities.
harbour at the mouth of the Doubs into the Saône. Valerie Connon, the lively harbour master, is waiting for us at the jetty. She shows us the ropes, helps us tie up and gives us all sorts of tips on the "what and how" of the town.
"Do you know our culinary speciality, pauchouse?" We haven't yet, and she explains: "It's a ragout made from freshwater fish such as pike, perch, eel and tench, cooked in white wine and served with croutons." Try it in the restaurant 'Les Platanes'. And then we come across butter again.
Early the next morning, on the way to the nearby bakery. On the shop window
window is emblazoned in large letters: tout au beurre, everything with butter.
croissants and other buttered baked goods. Historically speaking, the town has repeatedly come to grief. If it wasn't for acts of war, it was ravaged by plague epidemics and floods.
and floods. It was not until the conquest of Franche-Comté by Louis XIV that Verdun-sur-le
Doubs came to rest and became an important trading centre for grain from the Saône plain.
Impressively recreated in a museum (La Maison de Blé et du Pain) in the former town hall built in 1836.
town hall. We still have about 100 kilometres to go. Only three days left when the calendar says Wednesday. And every new morning wakes us up with the exciting question "What awaits us today?" The planned 45 kilometres to St.-Jean-de-Losne are quite a stretch with a "Plaisirgondel", which - as intended by the charter company - only allows you to make moderately slow progress against the current.
And when we reach St.-Jean after just under five hours, we also know the answer to the day's question: two locks in Ecuelles and Seurre, which do not need to be operated because they are primarily used for large commercial and tourist vessels. What follows is an endless monotonous worm of a canal that bypasses the Saône as soon as you pass the historically interesting town of Seurre.
The small town became famous as the "last fortress in Burgundy", which withstood King Louis XIV. The landing stage,
with water and electricity, lies invitingly in the shelter of a small island. St.-Jean - centre of the inland waterway boatmen When the first houses of St.-Jean-de-Losne appear behind a bridge, you are faced with the choice of either heading for the hugely desolate but relatively quiet harbour basin with the station of our charter company Le Boat
(formerly Crown Blue Line) or to moor in front of the lively town centre.
Our tip: opt for the city "in the centre of life". St.-Jean, situated at the junction of the Canal de Bourgogne and the Rhine-Rhône Canal, is advertised as a regional shipping centre whose history is reflected in the "Musée des Mariniers". The small, picturesque town of bargemen also offers good shopping opportunities and deserves more than just a quick visit - a shopping tip on the side: you will find a very good butcher in Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau.
Monsieur Perret Machado is characterised by his impressive moustache, but above all by his art of making incredibly tasty pies. The region was ravaged by plague epidemics and floods. It was not until Louis XIV conquered Franche-Comté that Verdun-sur-le Doubs also came to rest and became an important trading centre for grain from the Saisons.
an important trading centre for grain from the Saône plain. It is impressively recreated in a museum (La Maison de Blé et du Pain) in the former town hall built in 1836. There are still about 100 kilometres
ahead of us.
Only three days left when the calendar says Wednesday. And every new morning wakes us up with the exciting question "What awaits us today?" The planned 45 kilometres to St.-Jean-de-Losne are quite long with a "Plaisir gondola", which - as the charter company wanted - only allows you to make moderately slow progress against the current.
The decision to head for the market town of Pontailler-sur-Saône, 36 kilometres away, proves to be less fortunate, apart from being able to scramble up the "mountain" of Mont Ardoux at 223 metres. The view over the Saône plain and the Jura mountains at least makes up for the not exactly easy mooring in the narrow harbour basin, which is primarily reserved for the charter boats from "Canalous".
But there is also Henk Kuilder, a Dutch harbour master, who is returning to his home country after 26 years in France. At the moment, however, he still gives every guest a warm welcome. And with his friendly help, even the most inexperienced charter captain has so far been able to moor safely.those who still want to avoid the harbour should opt for the Saône quay off Pontailler.mooring manoeuvres are easier here, even if berths are scarce.
even if berths are scarce.
Alternatively, I prefer Auxonne next time, even if the penultimate 42-kilometre stage to just before Gray demands stamina. 1788 saw a small sub-lieutenant on duty in the former garrison town: Napoléon, who still greets boat tourists today. Silent as a monument, why Auxonne of all places? Firstly, there are plenty of moorings, easy to navigate, with water and electricity included. In addition to historic buildings, including the castle with the "Napoléon Bonaparte" museum, the ambience is also appealing.
In the evening, perhaps an aperitif in the "L'aquarium" bar followed by a delicious dinner at "Les Promenades"? And if you want to bring an eventful trip to a tranquil end before reaching Gray, you should moor in the enchanting Mantoche, where only six kilometres and one last lock separate you from Gray. The charter station itself offers little atmosphere to spend the night here.
Unfortunately, we have no choice but to leave Mantoche on the left bank on our last leg of the journey.what happened? A sharp bend in the river just before the Apremont 17 lock demands our full attention, not least because the self-service system is activated. And so we overlook one of the hundreds of thousands of French anglers crouching well camouflaged in the bushes in front of the lock. Our propeller promptly reels in the fishing line he has cast out, stalling the engine.
From then on, the damaged prop only allows us to creep under heavy shaking. So what began with thunder ends with vibrations ... in keeping with our status.
WHAT SKIPPERS NEED TO KNOW
The company The charter company Le Boat was created through the merger of three formerly independent charter companies: Crown Blue Line, Connoisseur and Emerald Star. A powerful company with the guarantee of not falling into the hands of a windy provider of houseboat holidays. The centre of gravity of the destinations: France. In addition, there is an extensive fleet of boats of different sizes in Germany, Italy, Belgium, Holland, Ireland and Great Britain, in the "Modern" and "Classic" categories, ranging from
simple and affordable to luxurious.
Agent in Germany: Le Boat, Theodor-Heuss-Str. 53-63, 61118 Bad Vilbel, Tel. 06101-557 91 66, e-mail: info@leboat.de.
The boat We sailed a Corvette A, a boat with an ideal layout with a fore and aft cabin, each with a washroom (shower and toilet) and a saloon in between, including galley. Length: 11.35 m, width: 3.81 m. The boat was in good condition, insignificant defects are due to the permanent use as a charter boat. One design flaw is the entire lower driving position, which allows almost no visibility in rainy weather.
A boat licence is not required. All documents relating to the boat are provided by the charter company. These include a captain's handbook explaining the boat's functions, equipment and navigation signs.
The precinct In the catalogue, the area described by us is called "Burgundy-Franche-Comté". We chose the 3-region tour from Branges to Gray over 211 km with 12 locks, ten of which are operated automatically or by lock keepers. LeBoat estimates a journey time of one week and 34 hours for this tour, which covers the regions of Franche-Comté, Burgundy and Bresse, but if you want to take it easy, you should allow at least two weeks.
The maximum speed is 10 km/h on the Seille, 35 km/h on the Saône from Tournus to Auxonne and 15 km/h from Auxonne to Gray. In addition to our stage destinations, where there are good moorings even for less experienced skippers, there are numerous other moorings that are not always easy to reach. For example in Gigny, the former Port de Gergy (km 159), Seurre (km 188), Auxonne (km 233), Heuilley (km 257) or Mantoche (km 276). In the open countryside, mooring is permitted anywhere except at trees, bridges, narrow passages or river bends. However, there is a risk of running aground with the boat near muddy banks.
