Only a few boaters know the coasts of the Thermaic Gulf in the north of the Aegean. But the area has a lot to offer: secluded bays, quaint harbours, unspoilt nature and culinary highlights.
Between the Alpine lake and the Caribbean
As if on a large inland lake with a mountain panorama, the boat heads west until the narrow passage between the delta of the Axios River in the north and the headland at Angelochori in the south can be made out. The jade green of the water to starboard in the huge delta of the river harmonises just as well with the wooded, mountainous backdrop of the mainland behind it as the turquoise to port with the snow-white beaches to the east. The decision between the two sides of the Thermaic Gulf on the way south seems like a choice between the Alpine Sea and the Caribbean.
The Caribbean side wins, not least because of the prospect of spectacular sunsets and wide beaches: the Thessaloniki region and, to the south, the Halkidiki peninsula, which stretches its three fingers into the Aegean Sea.
Starting point Thessaloniki
In the morning, we cast off from the Aretsou Marina in Thessaloniki. Greece's second-largest city turned out to be a kaleidoscope of cultures, with Byzantine churches, Ottoman baths, Jewish neighbourhoods and modern boulevards, spiced with the aroma of freshly brewed mocha.
Its lively riverside promenade is dominated by the town's landmark, the White Tower. Tall pine trees lean respectfully to one side next to it, as if to let the old walls breathe history. Inside, cool, dark stone covers the floors in narrow vaulted corridors. Small halls with exhibitions on the history of the city and region open up on all floors. The artefacts give a foretaste of the traces of diverse culture and history that we will encounter along the Thermaic Gulf. From the balustrade, the view stretches far and wide, to mountains in the background, green hills and plains in front, touching a clear, turquoise-coloured sea on coasts lined with white beaches - a beautiful view, a promise for the cruise.
Anchoring with a view of Mount Olympus
We hardly encounter any other pleasure craft on the way. This is a little surprising, but will make it easier to find a free mooring or anchorage. There are hardly any sheltered anchorages, but in anticipation of a windless night, the iron falls north of Cape Epanomi, which stretches flat and white sandy far into the bay of Potamos.
The day was bathed in silvery light, the coast of the mainland in the west only vaguely recognisable. As the sun set, however, the spotlight came on and cast an almost breathtaking light on the 2,900 metre-high mountain range with the legendary Mount Olympus, the home of the gods in Greek mythology.
As the sun sinks, it emphasises its edges like a silhouette, gently rounded here, karstic and pointed there. First grey against pink, then black against bright dark orange. A sight that is repeated every evening in changing shades and from which it is difficult to look away despite the repetitions.
Authentic harbour life in Nea Moudania
The next stage south to Nea Moudania is barely more than a stone's throw away, where the coastal fringe is constantly changing: beaches and cliffs, olive groves and fields.
The early Christian basilica Ekklisia Panagia Korifini can be seen from afar. A little oversized, with turrets and frescoes and a tall, narrow bell tower, it towers over the city as a witness to deep faith. The harbour welcomes you with hustle and bustle: Fishing boats moor and are unloaded, seagulls circle over the chests, and the clinking of glasses and the laughter of guests can be heard from the tavernas.
From the boat, it is only a few steps to one of these tavernas, where excellent fresh seafood is served on simple crockery, while the sun mercifully bathes the facades of the rather functionally built houses in a golden light. Traditional, authentic Greece.
Sani - Greece's little Monaco
The contrast to the next destination could hardly be clearer. It advertises itself as "Greece's own little Monaco": Sani, one of the few genuine marinas on the Thermaic Gulf. In front of the entrance, a small mountain with a watchtower juts out into the gulf as a signpost. To the right and left of the long piers are beaches with parasols, sunbeds and towels in uniform, bright colours.
The narrow fairway leads into a large, round harbour basin with lots of high-quality yachts that blend seamlessly into a backdrop of elegant architecture and upmarket shops. However, you will look in vain for ostentation. "In the 1960s, there was nothing here but swamps and mosquitoes, yellow fever and churches," says a man at the beach bar in the evening, who turns out to be the manager of the Sani resort.
Luxury in harmony with nature
A visionary property developer and his business partner once bought the land from monks to build the resort. They had to commit to preserving and protecting the surrounding nature. The predominantly low and spacious buildings were built around old trees. There are ancient pines and gnarled olive trees everywhere. Rosemary, lemon balm and thyme grow in the flowerbeds between the laurel hedges, while native flowering plants attract bees.
Relaxed holidaymakers lie on the beaches and stroll along the paths, with offers such as yoga and spa, tennis and climbing forest or day trips on their daily schedules. The dignified and extremely well-kept ambience pleasantly dispenses with tourist clichés and ostentation.
A place that invites you to simply check in with the family even without a boat and enjoy the upscale comfort of a flat with a sea view - especially as budding boatmen are also trained here and charter boats with local skippers are available in the marina.
Dolphins and culinary highlights
John is one of them. He raves about his area, where dolphins play around the boat every day. "We have a lot of fish, shrimps and mussel farms here because the big rivers flow into the Gulf," he says. The fishermen moor their boats at the pier and the catch goes straight to the restaurants. Admittedly, their prices are significantly higher than those in the rest of the country. "But the quality of the food is also very high," says John.
We put this to the test in the evening at the "Avli" restaurant right by the marina. Greek cuisine is reinterpreted here - and leaves all the gyros and souvlaki variations we know from home far behind. Home-baked bread and olive oil for dipping, plus spicy black olives are brought to the rough, wooden table, followed by a whole range of small, fine dishes, fragrant with the fresh herbs that grow here by the wayside: salads, fresh fish on creamy risotto, aubergine and feta dips, green beans and meatballs.
Excursion into the interior of Kassandra
Sani also offers guided tours across Kassandra - a good opportunity to take a look inland. Roads and paths wind their way through dense pine forests. The old trees are marked by scars in the bark, from which resin runs into containers. "The pine trees are so full of resin that they explode like bombs when they catch fire," explains driver Manos. The resin is mainly used to make firelighters and retsina, the peculiar-tasting wine that is often mixed with cola here to make it drinkable. The flavoursome pine honey, for which beehives are scattered throughout the forest, is more appealing.
On the east coast of Cassandra, Manos drives through villages with narrow alleyways, where sandstone houses with blue shutters house small tavernas and shops. Figs, pomegranates and limes grow in the gardens. The alleyways repeatedly open up views over the turquoise Gulf of Toroneos.
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In the footsteps of the apostle Paul
Behind an inconspicuous metal door in Nea Fokea, a journey into early Christian times begins between olive groves. Behind it: a mystical room with frescoes depicting scenes from the life of the apostle Paul. He is said to have hidden here from his persecutors. Crawling through a narrow corridor, we reach a small cave, the actual hiding place. In one corner, water gushes out of the rock, which is said to have healing powers. Couples wishing to have children leave messages and gifts, but we don't know what the sacrificed women's underwear is all about.
Natural paradise and last sunset
Back in the marina, it is only a few steps to a natural and deserted beach that describes a wide arc around the bay. Behind the dunes at its edge lies a species-rich wetland biotope with two lakes, surrounded by thatch and wet meadows, a nesting and resting place for more than 200 bird species. Narrow, sandy paths lead through it. Cormorants perch on a dead tree, herons stalk past with long legs.
As the sun gets lower, the path leads back through the dunes to the beach. Your feet sink into the soft sand. Relaxed club music sounds from the beach bar, cicadas singing from the forest behind. Small waves lapping softly. The ideal place for a last sunset in Greece's forgotten paradise.
Precinct information
The Thermaic Gulf
The estuary is located in the north of Greece between the mainland with the almost 3,000 metre high Olympus Mountains and the Chalkidiki peninsula.
Three large rivers flow into the gulf. They create fertile plains with olive groves and sunflower fields. The coast is characterised by crystal-clear water, white beaches and pine forests.
Weather and climate
The proximity to the Balkans is reflected in cold winters and very hot summers, especially in July and August. There is often no wind or very light wind in the mornings and evenings. The Meltemi reaches the Thermaic Gulf only to a lesser extent. In the south of the gulf it can occasionally become stormy. Short, steep waves then build up.
Harbours and bays
There are marinas in Thessaloniki (Thessaloniki-marina.gr) and in the Sani resort (Sani-Resort.com). Pleasure boats can also moor in the small fishing harbours near the town. In good weather, you can also anchor along the coast. However, well-protected bays are more likely to be found on the east coast of Kassandra.
Literature
Rod and Lucinda Heikell: "Coastal Handbook - Greek Coasts", ISBN: 978-3-667-12948-2, 69.90 euros, delius-klasing.de
Klaus Bötig: "Travel Pocketbook Chalkidikí & Thessaloníki with Maps and Tours", ISBN: 978-3-616-00765-6, 19.95 euros, DuMont.
Ursula Meer
Redakteurin Panorama und Reise
