Greece: Saronic Gulf - In the wake of antiquity

If you want to explore Greece by boat for the first time but are not yet ready to venture into the sometimes stormy Aegean Sea, there is an area right next door that leaves nothing to be desired: the Saronic Gulf. Between the Peloponnese peninsula in the west and the Cyclades in the east, the area offers everything that is important to beginners or family crews: short distances, safe harbours and anchorages, and there are exciting things to discover every time you go ashore. The region is regarded as the cradle of European civilisation with the first major buildings, large cities and prehistoric sanctuaries. An area where Greek history is constantly in the wake.

While charter customers usually start their weekly tour of the Saronic Gulf from Athens or Poros, we start with our private boat in the far south, at Porto Heli. A place that is located on the border to the Argolic Gulf and is rarely visited by charter boats. We enter the canal, which is about a mile long, at the end of which is the large bay of Porto Heli. You won't find any ancient Greek flair here. But: with a long harbour pier, where dozens of yachts can be moored, as well as a promenade with a few bars, the place seems to be to the taste of the locals. They are among themselves here. Meanwhile, the crowds of tourists throng the picturesque old town streets of nearby Poros or Ermioni.

Porto Heli offers Athenians refuge at the weekend

The shores of the peninsula on which Porto Heli is located are lined with expensive villas and lavish estates, some with fenced-off private beaches and security guards. An unusual picture for Greece. But Porto Heli is very popular with wealthy Athenians who like to spend their weekends here. Where there is so much money, a modern marina is a must. It was opened a few years ago. Drinking water is even available at the taps on the jetty - another exception in Greece. The precious water is specially transported over the mountains in large lorries and filled into the marina's storage tanks on site. However, with berth prices of around 50 euros per night for an eleven-metre boat - and even 84 euros for a catamaran of the same length - it is one of the most expensive in the region.

We head out of the bay and the channel again and initially head eastwards, always close to the coast. You have to keep an eye on the cross traffic of the numerous small passenger ferries travelling across to the island of Spetses. We sail across the Myrtoan Sea, as the sea area is called here, and finally set course for the narrow passage between the mainland and the island of Dokos.

A small passenger ferry runs from Ermioni to the popular island of Hydra

The small village of Ermioni appears ahead. There you can either moor on the south side at the quay wall, although this can be uncomfortable if the wind picks up. Alternatively, you can enter a circular bay on the north side, which is open to the east. Here, yachts are allowed to moor or anchor at the Roman Catholic ferry jetty. Up to twelve boats can moor here unhindered.

Ermioni is a nice harbour village with good tavernas, a supermarket and a bakery at the harbour. The village is served by the fast ferry from Piraeus and a small passenger ferry crosses over to the elongated island of Hydra. If you don't fancy the hustle and bustle there - the charter boats crowd together in two rows of packets - but still don't want to miss Hydra, the ferry is a good option.

More about Greece:

• Greece: 12 special features that boaters should know about the region
• Area overview: Greece for beginners and experts
• Greece: Cyclades for skippers - Sifnos, Santorini and Kythnos

A restaurant tip is the small "Cookoida" taverna on the south side of Ermioni. Tzatziki, bread, a Greek salad and a sumptuous selection of starters - that's all you need for a successful evening.

The next morning, we head north past Dokos and over to Hydra. The barren mountains of the island rise some 600 metres into the sky, impossible to miss. A school of dolphins accompanies us on the way. The closer we get to Hydra, the more crowded the water becomes. The island harbour is one of the main destinations and usually also the turning point for many charter trips that set off from Athens for a week. They have to cover around 55 nautical miles to Hydra.

Poros is just around the corner - a busy island

The inhabitants of Hydra were once very wealthy and also skilled boat builders. However, the economic decline of the island began with the founding of the Greek state. This only changed again when artists such as Chagall and Picasso discovered the gem and tourism came in their wake. Nowadays, the narrow harbour can get crowded in the early afternoon.

We therefore continue on our course towards Poros. It's usually busy there too, but unlike Hydra, there are significantly more berths in Poros. Poros is also well worth seeing. Even the entrance to the harbour is spectacular: the centre is located on the island of the same name, which is only separated from the mainland by a channel around 300 metres wide. While day tourists are ferried over from Galatas by water taxi every minute, a hydrofoil ferry from Piraeus also runs several times a day. Weekends are particularly busy when the local charter fleets are expecting new guests.

There are long quay walls around the town, where Roman Catholic ships moor - which is sometimes not easy due to the slight cross-current. If it gets really busy in summer, there is a good chance of finding a free berth at the charter centre to the south during the week. A floating jetty has been installed on the north side, where it is even possible to moor alongside.

The harbour master comes by twice a day to collect money and unlocks the electricity and water columns. If you run out of fuel, Poros is the right place to refuel. Every minute, small tanker lorries drive along the harbour promenade. But watch out: The petrol tankers' meters are not always calibrated! Poros is built on a rocky hill and there are countless small alleyways that are just waiting to be explored. Steps lead up a picturesque, flower-lined path to the clock tower, which overlooks the whole island. A bench in the shade invites you to linger - and to take in the view of what lies ahead over the next few days: the Saronic Gulf ahead; the Methana peninsula can be seen in the distance.

Almost forgotten: Methana

The next morning, our course takes us westwards, still protected by the island. Then we head northwards. Methana is a rather unpopular destination. The town is located in the south-east of the peninsula of the same name. The former sulphur spa town had a lot to offer, especially before the Second World War, thanks to its hotels, casino, open-air cinema and theatre and, of course, its popular thermal baths. In the meantime, most of the hotels have closed and some of them are in ruins. Yet Methana has everything you could wish for: good restaurants that are not overcrowded. A wide promenade. Supply options. Hiking trails. If you like "shabby chic" and want to get away from the hustle and bustle of Poros, this is the place for you. Provided you can live with the constant smell of rotten eggs. In return, the town makes up for this with its many fragrant orange trees.

Ancient history is omnipresent in Aegina

Swimming stops have been few and far between so far. After the approximately seven and a half nautical mile crossing from Methana to Aegina, we dropped anchor the next morning in one of the numerous small bays. About 150 metres from a beach, we put out 35 metres of chain and let the boat swing. The water is warm and crystal clear right down to the depths.

Aegina is home to 13,500 people, 8,000 of whom live in the main town in the north-west of the island. With a history dating back to 950 BC, Aegina is one of the oldest and most historic cities in Greece. It was known throughout the Mediterranean as a trading centre, not least because of the Aegina coins with a turtle depicted on them that were minted here. In 1828, Aegina was even the capital of the newly founded state of Greece for six months before having to cede this honour to Nafplio.

The harbour is busy, partly because of the ferry traffic to the surrounding islands. However, there is a long pier at the back of the harbour where guest yachts can moor stern-first. Those who prefer to remain self-sufficient will find a large, sheltered anchorage off the coast. Be careful, if you sail into the harbour from there, you have to watch out for an old wall that has been washed over by the sea and is barely recognisable - the old problem with Greece's sunken cities. Horse-drawn carriages drive up and down the promenade, waiters stand in front of the restaurants and invite you to dine, and pistachios, which are said to be among the best in the world, are sold at the roadside. The excavation site of the Temple of Apollo and an archaeological museum are within walking distance in the far north.

Temple of Asclepius and the best-preserved theatre of Greek antiquity

We want to experience even more of the great Greek history and set course back to the mainland the next morning, passing the island of Agistri. Ahead, the mountain range of the Peloponnese grows ever higher and more impressive, and finally a harbour entrance can be seen at its foot: Epidauros. On the map, it is usually labelled "Palea" or "Altea". The archaeological site of the same name with the famous Temple of Asclepius and the large theatre is located around 16 kilometres inland. The harbour town can look back on thousands of years of trading history. An excursion to the former cult site is always worthwhile.

The theatre of Epidauros is considered to be the best-preserved theatre of Greek antiquity. It was built around 330 BC, with a round orchestra made of marble and on a foundation of rammed earth. Even in the top row, you can hear the sound of a coin falling to the ground in the centre below.

More ruins in Epidauros

Another theatre, albeit much smaller, is located directly on the coast not far from the harbour basin. It was only rediscovered and restored in 1970. It offers space for 800 spectators and is now once again a venue for concerts and plays.

The quay wall in the old harbour of Epidauros is relatively short and only offers mooring space for a few yachts. If you don't moor up in the early afternoon in high season, you will have to spend the night at anchor - but that's not a bad thing, as the bay is spacious, well protected and offers good holding. Only the somewhat inconspicuously marked bathing area is off limits. Anchoring here at the foot of the mountains and with a view of the old theatre, as sailors did several thousand years ago, is a moving experience.

Epidauros lies in a fertile valley and is dotted with lemon and orange trees. The small centre has a sleepy feel. In a small park with old spruce and palm trees, you can sit in the shade and enjoy the evening breeze - sea view included. If you fancy something other than gyros or souflaki, you should visit the still young restaurant "Biercode". It offers a special pizza whose dough is supposedly baked according to a 2000-year-old recipe.

There is another anchorage on the southern side of the peninsula, as well as a beautiful beach and the ruins of a Roman estate, which can be snorkelled in shallow water at a depth of around one metre. If you don't want to go in the water, you can also hire glass-bottom kayaks on the beach and look at the ancient cairns through plexiglass.

Conclusion in Vathy

With only one charter week, the crew usually has little influence on which day of the week they sail to which destination. However, if you can somehow manage it, you should sail to your next destination on a Saturday: Vathy on the north-west side of the Methana peninsula. The harbour is tiny, only accommodating around ten ships. On a Saturday, there is a good chance that the town will be a little quieter because the charter fleets have to return to Athens to change crews.

The picturesque, beautiful, circular harbour is huddled close to a rock face. Towards the sea, a large, heaped-up stone pier defends against the waves. Behind it, you feel like you are lying in Abraham's lap. The anchor can be safely dropped on the opposite side of the harbour during the mooring manoeuvre - it is still quite close. When mooring in reverse, you get the feeling that your own gangway will take you straight to the table where you will be eating later that evening. Of the ten houses around the harbour basin, five are tavernas. A small shop next to the "Café Prego" stocks the essentials: White bread, olives, red wine. After arriving in Vathy and a short tour of the harbour, everything that needs to be done here has already been done. Then we recommend taking a seat with a cappuccino freddo in the "Skipper Bar Café" on the promenade and enjoying the scenery. By the way, after dinner, why not return to the "Skipper Bar", the cocktails are award-winning.

On the way back to the boat, the temptation is great to take another seat on one of the wobbly, wicker-covered chairs on the pier and have one last ouzo. Feet in flip-flops on the still warm cobblestone floor, a natural cedar roof over your head. In the glass, the delicious drink that makes you forget the approaching flight home. Anyone who has ever sat in a tiny Greek harbour like Vathy knows that it doesn't get any better - and above all more typical of the country - any time soon. From Vathy, we finally sail north-westwards, heading for Corinth. There we pass through the famous canal. But that's another story.

Info and tips for cruising Greece

The precinct

The Saronic Gulf stretches from the east side of the Peloponnese all the way up to Athens. It borders the Argolic Gulf to the west and the Cyclades to the east. The area is very popular with charter and family crews because the distances are very manageable and the anchorages and moorings are safe and available. What's more, it never gets boring because almost every place has its own special highlights.

Navigation & Seamanship

The area is not very demanding. Shoals are rare, only some passages between islands and the mainland are somewhat narrower. Important approaches to harbours are buoyed, especially when ferries arrive and depart. Ferry traffic is generally brisk. In the high season, some harbours can get crowded.

Charter

The logical starting harbour for the area is Athens with its huge selection of fleets and charter bases, spread over various marinas (Alimos/Kalamaki, Piraeus, Agios Kosmas). From there it is 15 miles to the island of Aegina.

Wind & Weather

The Saronic Gulf is not as affected by the Meltemi as the neighbouring Cyclades. It is most noticeable around Aegina in summer. Further towards Poros, however, thermal southerly winds often occur. Between Hydra and Trikeri, the wind often blows in an easterly direction. Doldrums are not uncommon, even in the early and late season. Then, however, passing lows can bring strong north or south winds.

Good regional weather forecasts can be found on the website of the Greek weather service Poseidon: poseidon.hcmr.gr.

Harbours & anchorages

Mostly simple town harbours with little infrastructure. Moorings are made with bow anchors and stern lines at the pier. Mooring fees are rarely charged, and if they are, they are usually only a few euros. Electricity and water cost extra, if available at all. There are numerous anchorages in bathing bays that are also suitable for overnight stays. However, there is swell in some of them at night. Hydra, Poros and Aegina get very crowded in the high season, as crews from Athens flock to the islands.

Literature & Charts

• Harbour and bay handbook "Greek coasts" by Rod and Lucinda Heikell, 69.90 euros, Edition Maritim
• Cruising guide "Greece 1" by Gerd Radspieler, 49.90 euros

Purchase via shop.delius-klasing.de.

• Nautical charts: Greek pleasure craft charts GRPC 1 and 2, Chart G 16 or British pleasure craft charts from Imray: "Saronic and Argolic Gulf" (with detailed plans).