Journey: Northern Germany - Holsteiner Runde between the North and Baltic Seas

If you've only ever had your sights set on inland waters and now want to get a breath of fresh sea air, the Holstein Round is the perfect choice. Here, the crew can expect a number of challenges involving sea areas, but also calm sections inland.

We are travelling with a Dutch shipyard built by a friend

A good mix with plenty to explore. We start in Cuxhaven, enter the Kiel Canal (NOK) in Brunsbüttel, make a stop in Rendsburg and then moor at the end of the canal after crossing the Kiel Fjord in the beautiful fishing harbour of Heikendorf-Möltenort. We continue via Marina Wendtorf to Fehmarn and from there to the destination of our first stage in Grömitz.

The second part with the onward journey via the Trave and the Elbe-Lübeck Canal back to the Elbe in Cuxhaven will be published in the March issue of BOOTE. You should allow at least two weeks for the entire trip, or more if there are weather problems.

We are travelling with a Dutch steel shipyard construction. The owner, a friend of ours, had fulfilled his dream of owning his own steel displacement vessel shortly before retiring. The budget was limited, so it was a well-preserved Hille Kruiser built in 1989, which now has its new home in the SVC harbour at the Cuxhaven Sailing Association. A little shopping is necessary before setting sail, and of course it is also worth exploring the town and its extensive harbour facilities.

The time of departure for Brunsbüttel must be carefully considered

We round off the evening with delicious fish dishes on the beautiful terrace of the upper deck restaurant right in the harbour. The time to cast off for Brunsbüttel the next day has to be carefully considered, because the Elbe is a tidal river, and this becomes increasingly noticeable the closer we get to the estuary. In the case of our articulated canoe, which can only manage a speed of seven knots at best, the course against the outgoing water would unnecessarily lengthen the stroke and increase diesel consumption accordingly. In Cuxhaven, we have to reckon with an offset of around two hours until the direction of flow changes. So we wait for the water to come in. In our case, a good time to cast off is early afternoon - enough time for a hearty breakfast. The 16 nautical miles to Brunsbüttel are doable in just under two hours thanks to the current, which allows us to travel over ground at around ten knots.

The Kiel Canal is a highlight

The next nautical challenge awaits here with the entrance to the lock. The 98.6 km long Kiel Canal is the busiest artificial sea route in the world. There are locks in Brunsbüttel and Kiel-Holtenau. Many leisure captains will have great respect for this and for the "big boats". But with good preparation and an experienced crew, everything is easy to manage. We strongly recommend reading the "Leaflet for recreational boaters - Kiel Canal" from the Federal Waterways and Shipping Administration( www.wsv.de ).All the rules and special features that must be observed are explained here. The brochures are also available from the harbour masters. Waiting times of more than an hour are to be expected at the locks. The lock masters can be contacted by telephone or VHF. The radio must be listened to. Instructions in the locks are given over loudspeakers. There are waiting areas that must be approached.

We are lucky, and it doesn't take long before the message to enter the small lock comes over the radio. Special light signals apply here for pleasure craft. Entry is only permitted when the white light is intermittent. All other light signals apply exclusively to commercial shipping. There are very shallow floating jetties for mooring in the chambers. The fenders must hang low. Packets are permitted. Thanks to the floating jetty, nothing needs to be done during the lock process. We turn off to port immediately after the lock to head for Brunsbüttel Marina, which is located directly behind the large lock. It is full and we are lucky to find a place on the jetty with electricity and water. The harbour master comes to collect the money in the evening and also gives us the code for the sanitary facilities.

The Baltic Sea delights with beautiful harbours

This is also an opportunity to pay the passage fees, which otherwise can only be paid at a machine in Kiel-Holtenau. It is pouring with rain and we make do with a pizza in the town before quickly returning to the boat. Our destination the next day is the marina in Rendsburg. The canal trip is completely unproblematic. We travelled in the direction of travel on the right, keeping an even distance from the freighters, but also from the shore, because a freighter like this sometimes draws a lot of water away from the shore. In the afternoon, we pass the striking bridge near Rendsburg, then turn into the Eider and dock in Rendsburg at around 4 pm.

The pretty old town with St Mary's Church and the old town hall on the 16th century Altstädter Markt is well worth a visit. Originally, the old town was an island in the Eider, the former border river between the Danish and Frankish empires. For dinner, we choose the Yachthafen Meisterei with its beautiful backdrop in the marina. The next day is again spent working on the canal. We reach the Kiel-Holtenau lock at around 1 pm. After a brief radio conversation, we realise that it will take longer here. So we moor at the sports boat jetty on the north bank, where there is also a machine for paying the canal fees. After about an hour, the time has come. We lock up with a few freighters and set our sights on the fishing harbour of Heikendorf-Möltenort on the eastern shore of the Kiel Fjord.

A strong breeze from the north brings a good swell into the bay

In bright sunshine, we moor in a beautiful setting with a mixture of yachts and fishing boats. Despite the report of freshening winds, we hope to continue our journey the next day, but this doesn't materialise. A strong northerly breeze is bringing a heavy swell into the bay. So all we can do is wait and see. But we're in a good spot here. Because in the harbour, the fish frying cutter "Elke" and the floating harbour restaurant Rimo 1 provide food and drink.( www.rimo1.de )the visitors. It could hardly be better. On the next evening, when the weather was bad and there were few guests at Rimo 1, the chef personally brought us delicious plaice with fried potatoes to our berth. Thanks again for that!

We ended up staying three nights, which allowed us to explore the beautiful coastline. In addition to the local fishing museum, the Heikendorf seaside bathing establishment can be visited to the south of the harbour. To the north is the Möltenort submarine memorial. Gastronomic temptations include Seeblick Beach with beach chairs on the sandy beach and Das kleine Strandhaus. On the way back, the Fährhuus should be mentioned for culinary delights. If you want to cook for yourself, you can get freshly caught fish directly from the cutter in the fishing harbour several times a week( www.fischvomkutter.de/heikendorf ).We are actually grateful for the forced break and can definitely recommend a stay of several days.

From Wendtorf the wide sea follows

On the third morning, the water is calm and the sun is shining, and the journey continues with a short trip to Marina Wendtorf on the north-eastern edge of the Kiel Fjord. The marina is large, has good jetties and sanitary facilities, but not much in the neighbourhood. Apart from a harbour snack bar and some fast food within walking distance, there is little on offer. But it's good enough for the night and is a good starting point for our next trip to Fehmarn. However, there is one hurdle.

The Todendorf/Putlos shooting area in Hohwacht Bay must be crossed. However, shooting does not take place here all the time, and the specified shooting times do not always mean that passage is prohibited. Information is available at www.bsh.de under "Topics", "Shipping", "Nautical information", "Warnings and news", "Shooting areas and shooting times". Current information should be requested by telephone (04385- 59 13 13). In addition, yellow, red or yellow-red flashing lights are used at several signalling points to indicate firing operations. The coastal radio station Marine Radio Todendorf and the safety boats can also be reached on channel 16 VHF. Radio traffic should always be listened to. The only way to be sure is to enquire by telephone. We contacted the centre the day before and were given permission to sail along the Kiel-Fehmarnsund route along the buoyage.

Marina Grömitz is a hive of activity even in the middle of the week

In the late afternoon, 36 nautical miles are completed and we moor in the large and very sheltered Burgtiefe marina, which is part of a holiday complex and very well maintained. At the end of August, it is already quite quiet here. The local restaurant is closed, so the snack boat remains to supply us with fish sandwiches. There is no village. So we spend a relaxed evening with fast food on board. If you want more choice, you can call at Burgstaaken.

The penultimate leg in the Baltic Sea takes us into the Bay of Lübeck to the Grömitz marina. The 21 nautical miles are completed in just over three hours in perfect weather and calm seas. The marina is a hive of activity, even in the middle of the week. The restaurants on the waterfront promenade are packed, sometimes with queues. Just the best weather for an excursion. Fortunately, we find a place in the pizzeria where we end the day. You can read about the next stage to Travemünde in the second part.

Service

Cruise stages

S Cuxhaven-Brunsbüttel: 16 nm

1. Brunsbüttel-Rendsburg: 36 nm
2. Rendsburg-Heikendorf-Möltenort: 21 nm
3. Heikendorf-Möltenort-Wendtorf: 6 nm
4. Wendtorf-Burgtiefe: 36 nm
5. Burgtiefe-Grömitz: 22 nm
6. Grömitz

Total distance: 137 nm

TheITEM 3in the district

• 1 Heikendorf-Möltenort: Very beautiful harbour with classic flair and an active fleet of fishing boats. Good catering, sandy beach with beach chairs and bathing establishment
• 2 Grömitz:Beautiful and large marina with very well-kept facilities, beautiful lakeside promenade and large sandy beach in the neighbourhood. Good catering facilities within easy reach
• 3 Cuxhaven:Large, well-kept marina with good supply options in the surrounding area and very large harbour facilities. Good shopping facilities in the easily accessible town

Literature

• Cruising guide "Baltic Sea Coast 1" Travemünde to Flensburg. By Jan Werner. 192 p., 100 photos and approx. 86 colour maps and plans; Delius Klasing Verlag, 7th edition 2021; format 16.8 x 24.1 cm; 39,90 €. ISBN 978-3-667-12064-9. www.delius-klasing.de
• Single map Kiel Canal. Kilometres, ferry locations, VHF channels, daytime sailing times, signalling at locks and points, moorings for pleasure craft; plans of Holtenau and Brunsbüttel; Delius Klasing Verlag, 1st edition 2022, format 61 x 43.8 cm; €12.90. ISBN 978-3-667-12445-6. www.delius-klasing.de
• NV. Atlas 11 The Elbe - Hamburg to Helgoland. Combi pack paper/digital download and app. District maps, harbour plans, Elbe, Elbe estuary, details. ZV Verlag 2022; Format 32.3 x 44.0 cm. 12,90 €. www.delius-klasing.de
• Flyer and information Water sports on federal waterways between the Elbe and Oder rivers, available for download as a PDF at www.gdws.wsv.bund.de , "Shipping", "Sport and leisure boating". Leaflets for recreational boaters on the Kiel Canal and NOK navigation charges under "Charges for recreational craft (NOK)".
• OUR BOAT:Hille Kruiser (shipyard Zaandam, steel displacement) - length: 11.60 m - beam: 3.50 m - draught: 1.10 m - height: 3.60 m - engine : Volvo Penta MD 47 A ; 4.7 litres 110 hp - fuel tank 960 l - fresh water 900 l - black water 150 l - cruising speed 7 knots

Nautical information

Driving licences

For the first part of the Holstein Tour, a recreational boating licence for the sea is sufficient, but for the second part you will need a recreational boating licence for inland waterways. Due to the conditions at the locks and when crossing the shooting area in the Baltic Sea, we recommend that you are equipped with a VHF radio, for which the appropriate licences are required.

The precinct

What applies to driving licences also applies to identification. If your boat is moored in a seaport and only has a label with the ship's name and home port, you also need an official or officially recognised licence plate to navigate inland waters. The crew should be familiar with meteorology, navigation in tidal waters, behaviour in locks, sailing according to buoys and radio discipline. We recommend that you call 04385-59 13 13 to obtain authorisation before sailing through the shooting area.

Kiel Canal

The rules for navigating the Kiel Canal (NOK) are set out in the "Merkblatt für Sportbootfahrer - Nord-Ostseekanal" published by the Federal Waterways and Shipping Administration ( www.wsv.de ). At the locks, entry is only permitted with an intermittent white light. All other light signals only apply to commercial shipping. Pleasure craft must wait in the designated waiting areas. Watch out for screw current in the chambers. The Brunsbüttel lock can be reached on VHF 13 and by telephone on 04852-885-252. The Kiel Holtenau lock can be reached on VHF 12 and by telephone on 04431-3603-152.

From Brunsbüttel to Breitholz, VHF 2 must be set, from Breitholz to Kiel-Holtenau VHF 3. The maximum speed in the canal is 15 km/h, the signs refer to kilometres. There are several passing places. In foggy conditions, pleasure craft can moor at a suitable place or on the land side of the dolphins of the passing places. Travelling at night is prohibited; exact sailing times are given, which change every fortnight with the seasons. Keep a safe distance from freighters and the shore. There are eight moorings for pleasure craft. Watch out for cross currents and keep on course for ferries, the ferries wait. Sailing is prohibited. The fees can be paid to the harbour master in Brunsbüttel or at the machines in Kiel-Holtenau.

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