Most water sports enthusiasts are familiar with the large Alpine lakes. Lago d'Iseo (German: Iseosee; Italian also: Sebino) is a different story. It is only when the conversation turns to the legendary boats from Riva, which are built in Sarnico, that it dawns on some people, as the village is one of the best-known communities on this beautiful body of water. It comes as no surprise that Lago d'Iseo is overshadowed by the larger and much better-known Lake Garda, which is only around 50 kilometres to the east and is clearly the focus of most visitors.
Need more information? You can find the travel report on Lake Iseo with more pictures and a service section in BOOTE issue 09/2019 or online at Delius Klasing Shop.
Of course, Lago d'Iseo is also packed in summer, but it is noticeably quieter in the low season. When we arrive in mid-October, we are greeted by a predominantly sunny week with temperatures above 20 degrees and an almost empty lake. Sarnico at the southern tip of the lake was chosen as our base, and the charter boats were just a short walk away at Nautica Bertelli (www.nauticabertelli.it) on the other side of the lake in Paratico. The dealer has its own marina, which guests with trailer boats can also use with a full range of services. It also has its own restaurant.
There are currently nine charter boats, including five with 40 hp outboards, which can also be driven in Italy by German guests without a licence. The fleet of rental boats for licence holders all come from Invictus. The range starts with a 200FX with a Honda BF 100 and extends to a 280 SX with a 350 inboard engine. Prices for day charters start at €120 and go up to €330 in the high season. The distances on the lake are short. It is only around 20 kilometres to the furthest point on the northern shore. This can be done at speeds of up to 27 knots. This means that all villages can be reached quickly. The waters are perfect for day trips. Even recreational captains with little experience will be able to cope here, as the shore is always in sight and navigation is relatively easy.
There is a lot to explore on the lake. A total of 45 official harbours are listed, 13 of which offer marked guest moorings where you can moor for two hours free of charge. Of course, there is always the option of asking whether a short stop is permitted. Bars and restaurants, of which there are plenty on the shores, often have their own small jetties or buoys for their guests. Some of the large campsites, such as Camping Iseo (www.campingiseo.it), also offer visitors the opportunity to launch and moor their trailer boat or hire motorboats.
Those looking for other challenges in addition to water activities such as fishing, water skiing or diving will find great hiking routes, a variety of exciting mountain bike trails or cycle paths and, of course, golf courses around the lake. Franciacorta, an excellent wine-growing region known in particular for its high-quality sparkling wines, begins directly on the south-eastern shores of the lake. We visited the Villa Franciacorta winery (www.villafranciacorta.it), which is located just eight kilometres from Iseo in the middle of the vineyards. The historic building also offers holiday flats, which are ideal as a base camp.
The three islands are among the highlights of the lake. The Isola di Loreto is a feast for the eyes with its picturesque buildings modelled on a castle complex, which was completed around 1910. The Isola di San Paolo is also idyllic. Both islets are privately owned and may not be entered. Nevertheless, a visit by boat is worthwhile. If only for the marvellous view, you can simply drift along for a small snack on board.
The largest inland island in southern Europe, Monte Isola, has all the more to offer its visitors. Guest moorings await boat tourists in the largest village of Peschiera Maraglio. The village with its 300 inhabitants became famous when the artist Christo set up an open-air artwork with floating jetties here for a short time in 2016, allowing visitors to walk to the mainland in Sulzano. The picturesque village is a good starting point for exploring the area.
There are no cars on the island, but scooters can be hired. There are also regular buses that run to all the important points. There are also wonderful hiking trails that allow you to explore all the splendour on foot. At the highest point, at 400 metres, is the Santuario della Madonna della Ceriola church with a magnificent view of the lake. On the northern shore near Carzano, the "Bubble Lake" and the "Bubble Bar" have their own mooring facilities to pamper guests. In Siviano on the western shore, the
Museo della Rete weaving museum can be visited.
If you still have some time left, you can visit the town of Sulzano, which is located directly on the mainland, on the same day, as there are also some official guest harbours here. There are numerous cafés, bars and restaurants in the harbour area. Alternatively, you can follow Via Luigi Cadorna to reach the pretty old town centre. From Sulzano, hiking trails also lead into the mountains, where you are rewarded for your efforts with a wonderful view of Monte Isola and the lake.
The pretty town of Marone is also not very far from the island and has official moorings. The Ristorante alla Galleria awaits visitors there with its wonderful lakeside terrace and its own restaurant, or you can moor in the centre directly in front of the striking town church Parrocchia San Martino, where there are several bars and restaurants.
There are also many attractive places to visit in the northern part of the lake. The small town of Riva di Solto is one such gem. Unfortunately, there are no moorings for guests in this community of 1000 people. In autumn, however, most of the private buoys were free, so it was possible to moor for a short time.
The municipality has been documented for around 1000 years, but prehistoric finds prove that there were settlements much earlier. As the main road runs above it, the promenade is almost car-free. Here, visitors can sit under palm trees on the shore and enjoy the marvellous view and tranquillity, for example in the Café del Porto, a gelateria or other eateries. The steep coast begins directly behind the town with cliffs that end directly in the lake. The Borgo di Zorzino bathing bay boasts a picturesque cliff face and excellent protection from the wind. If you drop anchor here, you will be surrounded by breathtaking scenery.
After a wonderful ride along the picturesque cliffs, the northernmost town of Lovere with around 5000 inhabitants appears on the horizon. Here it is flatter again and the hustle and bustle is much greater. First of all, an unsightly factory site comes into view. Behind it is the harbour of the sailing club, which does not accept guests. No problem, because the town has 20 visitor places right in the much nicer centre. The centre is teeming with street cafés, bars and restaurants. There are also shopping opportunities.
Travelling further east, you first pass the mouth of the River Oglio, which feeds the lake. Pisogne with its small harbour follows shortly afterwards. If you see a free berth and ask nicely, you can moor for a short time, but there are no official berths for visitors. Despite its 8,000 inhabitants, it is much quieter here than in Lovere. The beautiful old town, which is mainly characterised by 17th century façades, is located right by the harbour. The gastronomic offer is extensive. Directly to the south is Porto Goen, a small private harbour with a harbour restaurant of the same name. If you want to eat here, you should also be allowed to moor.
The southern half of the lake remains to be explored. The River Oglio leaves the lake again in Sarnico. The town is one of the wealthier and larger settlements. Several villas with parks on the shore testify to the fact that Sarnico's popularity and prosperity have lasted for some time. Visitors can stroll along the lake and the larger marina via a jetty on the shore and enjoy the view. The pretty old town centre with its car-free narrow streets is located directly on the bridge to Paratico. Catering is available everywhere.
Travelling north along the coast, you will also pass the Riva shipyard at the end of the town. Predore follows immediately afterwards. Fragments of a Roman thermal bath, which can also be visited, and a tower of the 13th century fortifications are evidence of the long history of settlement. Boating enthusiasts will be delighted by the Molo 31 restaurant with jetty and the Easy Bar with lakeside terrace. Further north, Tavernola follows at the height of Monte Isola. Here there is a marvellous view of the island, as well as a beautiful backdrop on the promenade. Mooring in the small marina is difficult due to the lack of guest berths.
Things are hardly any better in Iseo. There is only one place for visitors in the beautiful harbour. For the leading town on the lake with 9,000 inhabitants, this is a little tight. In the season, mooring is therefore likely to be difficult here too. You can also try your luck in the nearby marina, but there are no permanent berths there. Iseo has a lovely old town and is visibly characterised by tourism. Bars, pubs and shopping opportunities alternate in the centre around Piazza Garibaldi. Numerous museums and churches can be visited. A visit to the old town is of course a must and is the perfect way to round off a wonderful holiday by the lake.
