The change of the host flag shows it: After the long journey from Germany via the North Sea, English Channel and Bay of Biscay, our final leg of the journey lies ahead of us: the coast of Portugal to our destination of Portimão in the south. The stage begins in Vigo, Spain, which we leave in glorious summer weather. Dolphins accompany us for a short time. Apart from a brief strong southerly wind, which was not mentioned in any weather forecast, the journey to Porto goes without a hitch.
The mouth of the Douro greets us with a lively current before a Portuguese Coast Guard RIB shoots towards us, circles the ship and then reports in by radio. They only ask the usual routine questions about destination, last harbour, number and nationality of the people on board. Then the Douro Marina lies before us in the bright sunshine.
A dinghy from the harbour master's office guides us to our comfortable berth in the well-kept modern complex. After checking in, we wander through Afurada, where restaurants and residents alike are firing up their barbecues on the street. There is a smoky smell of food in the alleyways and a Mediterranean atmosphere in the air. Much of life takes place outside: Children play obliviously with their dolls, people sit outside their tiled houses and the restaurants set the tables for the evening. We let ourselves fall into this atmosphere while the sun slowly sinks over the estuary like a postcard...
On the north bank of the Douro, Porto welcomes us full of life and with an almost majestic character
Porto lies opposite Vila Nova de Gaia, which we initially think is a neighbourhood of Porto. Both banks rise steeply, giving the valley the character of a winding canyon spanned by several very high bridges. The "Ponte Dom Luís I" is the most beautiful and best-known bridge - a steel arch construction with two storeys built between 1881 and 1886, the shape of which was modelled on the world-famous bridge in Sydney.
The water is a hive of activity: Tourist boats, modelled on the "rabelos" that were used to transport wine down the Douro for port production, a wide variety of pleasure boats and numerous river cruisers dominate the scene. Restaurants, cafés, wineries and shops of all kinds line the banks, where crowds of tourists from all over the world gather.
An hour's journey before Lisbon, the clouds finally clear and the grey sky turns blue
We leave Porto, and after a night in the port of Figueira da Foz and a grey day with rainy weather, we finally make out the shadowy Cabo da Roca - the westernmost point of mainland Europe - shrouded in low clouds. An hour before Lisbon, the clouds finally break and the grey sky turns blue almost immediately. The sea also changes colour immediately, the wind picks up and conjures up little crowns on the waves.
We pass Cascais and soon have to watch out for the numerous fishermen's buoys, who lay out their nets and baskets near the coast. And when we turn the corner at the "Forte de Sao Julião da Barra" fortress, it lies before us in all its width and beauty: the over two kilometre long suspension bridge over the Tagus. In the lee of the coast and as we get closer to land, the temperature immediately rises noticeably. It takes us almost another hour to reach our destination, the "Marina Doca de Alcantara".
After initially failing to find a proper berth, we moor provisionally on a free jetty. When I go to the harbour master's office, which is a long way away, I experience a contrast to the previously super-helpful harbour masters in Portugal: a grim face, dismissive body language, a curt tone of voice - he has no room for us and we should leave immediately. In contrast, I see lots of empty berths - but they are all for "residents" who will be back tomorrow or the day after tomorrow or something. I make myself as small as possible and try to stalk his sympathy. Finally, he picks up the phone and when he's finished, he just says briefly: "Two nights okay, then leave."
Almost directly under the Tagus Bridge, we realise the constant background noise emitted by the road traffic on this bridge: a continuous loud roar, like an underground going through a tunnel, fills the air, making it impossible to sit outside. But that doesn't matter to us today and doesn't detract from the joy of having reached Lisbon - one of the dream destinations of our trip - on our own keel.
We take a legendary round trip on an ancient red tram. We have never experienced anything like it: the tightest bends and steepest gradients seem impossible to negotiate just by looking at them. The still huge network of tracks runs so close to some of the houses that you could caress the walls with an outstretched hand.
As soon as we entered the city, we saw the historic Torre de Belém from the water, which symbolises the heyday of the Portuguese maritime and trading empire. Built in 1521, it greeted the arriving seafarers, but could also take enemy ships in the crossfire with its twin tower on the other side of the Tagus.
The sea route to India discovered by Vasco da Gama in 1498 was the basis for the country's rise
The mighty Padrão dos Descobrimentos nearby is a reminder of Portugal's great explorers. From its high tower, you have a magnificent view in all directions, while in the square in front of it, a large compass rose with a world map shows the voyages and discoveries of Portuguese seafarers. The sea route to India discovered by Vasco da Gama in 1498 towers above everything else and was the basis for the country's rise to become the leading trading and maritime power of the 16th century.
We leave beautiful Lisbon in the direction of Cascais and continue our journey southwards the next day. In marvellous conditions, we round the high Cabo Espichel with its lighthouse visible from afar and sail in its lee towards Setúbal. Our good mood is abruptly dampened when we are turned away from the specially recommended marina on the Troía peninsula due to lack of space. The reason quickly becomes clear: the floating dock for larger yachts is closed due to a technical defect. As the small town harbour in Setúbal seems to be overcrowded and nobody speaks English there, it is also cancelled for us. This leaves Sesimbra at the mouth of the Sado as our last hope, but when they hear the length of my boat on the phone, they just laugh: "We can't do that."
As it is only early afternoon, we are forced to drive on to Sines. The birthplace of Vasco da Gama doesn't look very inviting from afar: Concrete piers, oil tanks, cranes. Behind the piers are not just a few larger tankers, but a second pier that protects the fishing harbour and the marina. But if you don't expect anything, you are often pleasantly surprised. The harbour master, with his exquisite commitment, could work at the reception of a large hotel, there are plenty of restaurants, the beach is meticulously cleaned and the well-kept promenade is of the finest quality. A few sailing boats and fishing trawlers bob picturesquely in the bay, and the elevated old town is inviting with its gallery-like staircases and lift.
The next morning we set sail in bright sunshine and seemingly calm conditions, but as soon as we leave the shelter of the pier and the lee of the coast, the swell and wind increase significantly. Waves up to three metres high roll in from the north-west - a mix of Atlantic swell and a wind sea with 5-6 Bft from the north.
But just before we round the most south-westerly tip of the European mainland, Cabo de São Vicente, it clears up and the sun comes out again. The wind and swell drop dramatically. Soon we are gliding along the coast of the Algarve like on a coffee trip and taking off our jackets.
After successfully conquering the Atlantic coast, we treat ourselves to a few weeks in the eternal summer of the Algarve
We reach our destination harbour of Lagos in the afternoon and enjoy the tranquil journey into the narrow, bustling estuary of the river. The Marina de Lagos is located behind a pedestrian bascule bridge that connects the old town and the marina. The constant stream of passers-by is interrupted several times a day to let larger ships like us through. We have to moor at the reception pontoon beforehand to "check in". Lagos represents the ultimate in charming professionalism that we have experienced here so far.
After the duty comes the free skating - and so after successfully conquering the continental Atlantic coast, we treat ourselves to a few more weeks in the Algarve. While the first autumn storms are already blowing through northern Germany, the warm sun is still shining over Lagos in mid-October from an immaculate blue sky. With temperatures between 25 °C and 30 °C, we don't need much imagination to feel like it's summer.
Firstly, we want to go as far up the Rio Guadiana as possible. To do this, we drive to the small Spanish town of Ayamonte at the mouth of the river into the Gulf of Cádiz. Opposite is the Portuguese town of Vila Real de Santo António, which can be reached by an old ferry in a quarter of an hour. Both estuary towns surprise us with a pretty and lively town centre. Everything looks very well looked after. This also applies to the marina, which is not only very favourably located in relation to the old town, but also has excellent moorings and infrastructure.
At 745 kilometres, the Rio Guadiana is one of the longest rivers on the Iberian Peninsula. It has its source in Spain and forms the border between Spain and Portugal in two sections. This is the first time we have flown the flags of two countries at the same time! Although the Rio Guadiana is supposed to be navigable as far as Mértola (70 km), it is only navigable as far as Alcoutim (40 km) - although this is first class. The river valley is sparsely populated and therefore still has a very unspoilt, almost primeval feel to it. It is bordered by mountains that continue to rise, creating a special atmosphere in their bleakness.
Alcoutim, with its old castle, offers a fantastic view of the Spanish town of Sanlúcar de Guadiana opposite, with its castle on a high hilltop. The two towns are connected by a small passenger ferry, which is also a symbol of the co-operation between the two border towns. Due to their remoteness, they were close friends despite the frequent clashes between the two countries and could only be separated in times of war.
The different time zones in Spain and Portugal provide another special feature
The different time zones in Spain and Portugal (one hour back) give us another peculiarity that is probably rare in this form. The church clocks on both sides of the river consequently chime two different times on the hour. The Portuguese side even chimes twice - once about eight minutes earlier and once shortly after the Spanish.
Before we travel down the Rio Guadiana again, the weather changes temporarily. A few lows from the hurricane that is battering Ireland and the British Isles also touch the Iberian Peninsula. Strong winds and, for the first time, light drizzle are the result, but not for long.
After a stopover on the Spanish Isla Canela, we continue on to the lagoons of Faro and Olhão in glorious weather. We reach the marina via an excellently buoyed fairway, but it turns out to be not very hospitable and a bit shabby. As the day is drawing to a close, the next suitable harbour is too far away. And so we stay in the spacious lagoon in front of Ilha Da Culatra and anchor - for the first time on this tour.
Off to Vilamoura, which can be recognised from ten miles away by its tall hotel buildings. The marina is huge and also organised like a hotel - something we are already familiar with. If necessary, you can be picked up by boat and taken to the office. Otherwise, the town consists of a seemingly endless string of pubs, cafés, restaurants and shops. To our surprise, there is still a lot of hustle and bustle here - dominated by English people. We don't find it all that exciting and soon continue our journey towards our final destination of Portimão, whose natural harbour is protected by two huge piers.
After our arrival, we are once again visited by customs. After breakfast, two nice officers knock on the boat. Apart from the routine, we learn something new: anyone staying in Portuguese waters for more than 183 days a year has to pay a tax on the installed horsepower. What a lot there is! For us, that would be around 4000 euros. We are here for longer overall, but spread over the years 2017 and 2018, so the Portuguese tax authorities come away empty-handed and we pop the corks!
The preparations for winterising our "Azura" begin, the crane date is approaching. As we tidy up, our thoughts inevitably wander ahead and our "other first life" begins to come back into our consciousness. After a total of five months away, we are now looking forward to the autumn and winter months at home and are slowly winding down the 2017 boating season. We have had a wonderful time with countless wonderful experiences, lots of visitors and glorious weather. This whets our appetite for more - and so we will continue our journey towards the Mediterranean next year.
Service Portugal
Cruising stages
S Vigo, Spain - Porto, Portugal: 75 nm
- Porto - Figueira da Foz: 65 nm
- Figueira da Foz - Lisbon: 115 nm
- Lisbon - Cascais: 4 nm
- Cascais - Sines: 55 nm
- Sines - Lagos: 80 nm
- Lagos - Alcoutim (Rio Guadiana): 90 nm
- Alcoutim - Isla Canela, Spain: 21 nm
- Isla Canela - Tavira, Portugal: 14 nm
- Tavira - Ilha da Culatra: 15 nm
- Ilha da Culatra - Vilamoura: 18 nm
- Vilamoura - Portimão: 22 nm
Z Portimão
Total distance:574 nm
Literature
▪ NV chart atlas "Atlantic 2, Vigo to Gibraltar". 4 over-sailors, 11 area and 39 detailed charts. Format 30 x 42 cm, paperback, in English. Price 69,80 €. www.nvcharts.com
▪ "Atlantic Spain and Portugal" sailing guide by Henry Buchanan. All important nautical information. Imray / RCC Pilotage Founda-tion (2015): 348 p., numerous photos and plans, format 21.8 x 30 cm, paperback, ISBN 978-1-84623-620-4, price €58.20. Order via www.hansenautic.de
The journey
Jutta and Thomas Kittel have specialised in long-distance cruises for years: After sailing in the Baltic region as far as Moscow (see BOOTE 3/2015), to the North Cape (BOOTE 5/2016) and around the British Isles (BOOTE 8/2017), the pair set course for the Mediterranean last season, which will be explored in detail this year. The journey from Rostock in Germany to Portimão covered 2959 nautical miles.
The ship
Type: Marlow 72 Explorer (Marlow Yachts/USA), length: 23.66 m, beam: 6.13 m, draught: 1.46 m, displacement: 63 t, engines: 2 C18-Caterpillar 1000 hp each (diesel), cruising speed: 10 kn, range: 2000 nm (10 kn)/3500 nm (6 kn)
