The Italian tourist is in a hurry. Guidebook in one hand, daughter in the other, she rushes towards the little manwith black bowler hat and white gloves who ensures that everything is organised at the entrance. She fires her question impatiently across the corridor:
"I want to know: Is this the University of Oxford?" She waves her thick handbook on England's south as if it were the Bible itself.
"It's Christ Church College, madam," the porter explains politely. Then he adds: "The University of Oxford
Oxford includesThirty-six collegesincluding this institution." But that's not enough for the visitor: "Then tell us which one is the best college. Our bus is waiting. Please, we only have time for the best one!"
"The best thing," replies her counterpart with a profound smile, "is always what you make of it."
Even the previously restless Italian has to laugh: "A very British answer," she says - very British!
We have also been making the most of our trip, a charter cruise on the Thames, for a few days now.
We don't find this difficult. On the contrary: the "royal river" shows itself from its most beautiful side, and the landscape runs like a postcard panorama fromGood Old England with bright rose bushes and hanging willows, bridges with round arches and names painted in gold on the inns.
Review: Arrival in Henley
Three days earlier, we drive in our hire car from Heathrow Airport to Henley, a town on the Thames with a population of 10,000, a good distance from the airport.west of the metropolis London and its urban periphery.
Henley is located at river mile 46 of the Thames and thus pretty much exactly in the middle of its 90-mile section that is navigable for charter boats.
This makes itas start and finish point for holiday cruises: Either downriver to Windsor or - like us - upriver to Oxford. Our boat is waiting for us at the Hobbs of Henley premises "Midsomer", a comfortable, well-equipped and only one year old boat.Linssen Grand Sturdy 36.9 AC.
Base manager Andy leads us on board to take over and together we go through the extensive inventory: "You'll especially need these," he says with a wink, holding up a stack of boaters. The flat straw hats with a cloth band got their name for a reason: in the past, they were simply part of an appropriate outfit on the water.
We can make friends with that. However, we are happy to forgo the previously equally appropriate combination of polo shirt and T-shirt in favour ofBlazer, tie and collar. After all, it's not so much what you wear, but how you wear it.
It's mid-June and the weekend: We notice this not only when we make our way to the supermarket through the narrow town centre at walking pace despite having a car, but also on the water afterwards. While we're still tidying up our things on the shore, pretty much everything with a keel passes by next door: Pedal boats, cabin cruisers, launches and fully occupied excursion boats.
In addition to the wailing of steam whistles and the chugging of outboards, other sounds echo across the Thames: the steady tearing of oars, the clapping of rudder blades and the bright gurgling of the water as the slender hull of a racing oarsman shoots ahead. This is accompanied by barked commands or hoarse cheering. Single, double, quadruple and even eights are on the move and deliver a performance of impressive technical precision.
And we're only seeing the relaxed part of the training here: it only gets serious after the bridge downstream, because that's where Henley Reach is located, a 2.5 kilometre-long, fairly straight section of the river. Every summer, it hosts what is probably the oldest and most famous international rowing event in the world: the Henley Royal Regatta.
As early as 1839, a certain Captain Gardiner had the idea of organising an annual rowing race to attract more visitors to the town - a clever marketing measure. The first duel for the Grand Challenge Cup - an almost waist-high and richly decorated Victorian silver jug - was a resounding success and signalled the start of a piece of sporting history that continues to this day (now with twenty disciplines). The River and Rowing Museum on the west bank south of the town centre provides an exciting insight. rrm.co.uk
When we set off the next morning, however, we head upstream towards another rowing mecca on the Thames: Oxford. After a few hundred metres - or rather yards (one yard equals 0.9 metres) - the first lock is already waiting for us, Marsh Lock. There will be fifteen barrages before we reach Oxford.
The Thames has been used as a transport route since the earliest times. The Romans called it the Tamesis. The first reports of mills and weirs date back to the Middle Ages, and the first barrage locks to facilitate the transport of goods are documented from the 16th century onwards. However, like most other inland waterways in Europe, the Thames lost its importance with the triumph of the railway. Today, long since freed from all traces of industry, it is used for recreation - on and by the water.
Together with a narrowboat, we enter the open chamber of Marsh Lock. The "Gently" slowly slides into the gap next to us. The canal boat, which is barely two metres wide but more than fifteen metres long, is a real feast for the eyes. There is not a shadow to mar the polished brass, not a speck to mar the bright miniature paintings: colourful diamond patterns, blooming roses and romantic castles adorn the ship's side and deckhouse.
As indispensable as the "Narrows" used to be as hard-working workhorses on the island's inland waters, today they are just as popular as houseboats - often literally, when they are moored on the shore as a cheap alternative to expensive rental flats.
The two friendly lock keepers help us with the ropes, the heavy black gates close, and soon we are travelling comfortably upwards. We quickly strike up a conversation with the couple from the "Gently": Cherrie and Peter come from Birmingham in the north. Since he retired, they have been using the summer months to cruise all over England.
"Your yacht would be a little too big for that," laughs Cherrie, trying to tame her wild silver hair under a wide sun hat. Most of the canals are so narrow and shallow that they are only suitable for narrowboats. "At least the two boys can shower standing up!" Peter interjects from the stern.
The gates at the head are already swinging to one side. Cherrie gives us a tip on the way out: the "Catherine Wheel" in Goring. Good food! We say thank you and shout "Have a nice holiday" - have a nice holiday! Then the "Gently" is slowly left in our wake.
The route continues at a leisurely pace under a summery sky, now passing riverside properties with very exclusive buildings and immaculately manicured greenery. In these works of art of landscape gardening, modern geometric concrete façades alternate with venerable bent half-timbering.
Even some of the boathouses on the shore are so opulent that they could be mistaken for a small villa - until the actual, set-back estate comes into view. Small, densely wooded islands called eyots force us to take serpentine routes. But blue arrows labelled "channel" leave no doubt as to where the fairway continues.
It now becomes more rural along the shore. Fields and meadows stretch out on both sides, small villages are passed: Wargrave, Shiplake and Sonning, with white and grey houses, the obligatory pub and church tower. In between are old bridges (whose rusty girders and crumbling arches often do not leave a particularly trustworthy impression) and, of course, locks.
The fourth, Caversham Lock, is followed by a trip through the urban area of Reading, the only major town on the entire cruise. Christchurch Meadows, an extensive public green space on the north bank just above the lock, offers a number of guest moorings.
We spend the night here on the return journey - in the company of countless grey geese, which chatter irritably as we return to the boat in the dark from our shore leave. Even if what we saw of the city wasn't spectacular, the trip was still worth it - because we came across the Griffin in Church Road, a historic pub-restaurant with a beer garden that we can recommend. www.chefandbrewer.com
But back to the first day, when we were just passing through Reading. Because our destination for the day, which Cherrie and Peter from the Gently had also advised us to do, was still ten miles (or sixteen kilometres) away: Goring.
The way there leads through the Goring Gap, the most beautiful and spectacular piece of nature on our trip. We have to lock twice beforehand, at Mapledurham and Whitchurch, then the river moves towards green ridges, the Chiltern Hills to the north and the Berkshire Downs to the south. Together they push in on the Thames from both sides and squeeze it into a narrow valley flanked by beech and oak woods.
The Goring Gap was formed during the last ice age, when the original course of the river was dammed up in such a way that it had to find a different route and carve a new bed through the limestone hills. As usual in the area, we find a nice spot alongside the public moorings.
moorings at Goring, within sight of the lock. With a magnificent view of the narrow valley of the Gap behind us, we make ourselves comfortable on the aft deck. Time for a Pimm's - and it's quickly mixed: lots of ice and a little of the popular herbal liqueur of the same name in the glass, topped up with orange soda, garnished with mint and cucumber slices! Very refreshing - and very British ...
We then walk past the old mill (with a whole crowd of tourists) along the High Street of the pretty village: Whitewashed cottages alternate with Victorian houses made of grey stone and red brick, proud rose bushes and wild ivy frame doors and windows. We are drawn to the Catherine Wheel on Station Road, the pub that was recommended to us.
Ale has been served here for 350 years, and the current building with its bent beams and the two tall chimneys on each gable dates back to the 18th century. To eat, there is honey ham with a crispy fried egg or golden-brown haddock with mashed peas. Local specialities such as Brakspear Bitter and Thatchers Cider come from the barrel. As the glasses empty, the summer evening slowly dawns over the terrace. www.tcwgoring.co.uk
We cast off at nine o'clock in the morning and set off on our second stage. The sky is now covered in a light veil, nothing to really worry about. But just to be on the safe side, we ask the lock keeper at Cleeve - the second barrage of the day after Goring. After all, a bit of small talk about the weather is always a good idea in England.
"Nice day today," I say. "What do you think, will it stay that way?" I tap the brim of my boater with my finger. The lock keeper's reply couldn't be more diplomatic: "Oh yes, definitely! Lovely day. The hat is just right." An effective pause follows before he adds: "But I'd still keep an umbrella and wellies handy." Okay, got it!
As the Thames now loops through gently undulating farmland, not only do the bridges get lower, but the now grey sky also seems to sink lower and lower. Fortunately, the wind remains pleasantly warm, even when we put the top down after the locks at Benson, Day's, Clifton and Culham, so that we don't hit anything.
We arrive in Abingdon in the early afternoon. Here, too, we will spend another night on the shore on the way back from Oxford. There are plenty of moorings above and below the old stone bridge. With two pegs you are safe in the weak current and can explore the pretty little town with its centre on the west side of the river at your leisure.
For example, Saint Helen's Church with its filigree Gothic arched windows. The church was begun in the twelfth century and has been continuously extended. Among the art treasures in the dark interior is the "Tree of Jesse" - a family tree of Jesus Christ, which was completed in 1391. One of the paintings, surrounded by fine carvings, shows the Son of God himself on a cross made of flowering lily vines. For the evening, head to the "Nags Head" on the small Thames island by the bridge. Steaks from the hot stone and sumptuous salads are served in the beer garden right by the water, accompanied by the pub's own ale. www.thenagsheadonthethames.co.uk
Back to the outward journey one last time: Under the stony sky, the landscape now seems strangely still and enraptured. Trees lean over the river, a pair of black swans follow silently in our wake. Long hedges stretch like dark lines across meadows and pastures. The walkers on the banks are already wearing yellow rain jackets.
From the lock at Abingdon, it's only a handful of miles to the university town of Oxford. We already see the first rowers again: we end up in the afternoon training session of a college, whose boathouse appears here in the middle of the countryside behind a bend. We are now part of this armada until we reach the bottom of the Sandford lock.
Iffley shortly afterwards is our last lock. You can now see taller buildings, the odd church tower: Oxford has been reached! The public moorings are in the south of the city, on the west bank. Opposite, on Boathouse Walk, there is one boat shed after another. The city's many colleges train here: Balliol, New, Christ Church and others - including some with a two-hundred-year-old tradition - identified by the coats of arms on the buildings and the club colours of their rowing blades. Despite the sporting rivalry, they are good neighbours.
As we hammered in the last peg shortly after mooring, the first drop fell right on time. But we don't let that put us off - after all, England's famous "changeable" weather is part of the programme, isn't it? In the rapidly increasing rain, we walk a little further along the slippery and muddy riverside path to Folly Bridge, which is so low that only narrowboats can pass through. This is where the famous "Head of the River" inn is located. A fitting name, a fitting place! www.headoftheriveroxford.co.uk
We shake out our umbrellas and sit down at one of the cosy wooden tables. After all, tomorrow is another day - and rain is always followed by sunshine!
Cruise stages
Henley - Goring 31 km (19.5 mi)
Goring - Oxford 41 km (25.5 mi)
Oxford - Abingdon 12 km (7.5 mi)
Abingdon - Caversham 48 km (30 mi)
Caversham - Henley 14.5 km (9 mi)
Total distance: 146.5 km (91.5 mi)
Tips
▪ Off to the pub! There are restaurants in every town, but they are comparatively expensive. The pub is the cosier (and more social) alternative - and the menu usually offers far more than fish and chips. You usually order (and pay) directly at the bar.
▪ Get to the shore! Don't be afraid to moor directly on the embankment. The current and waves are so small that you can safely moor on two pegs. If it rains, however, the path along the shore can quickly become very muddy. So pack appropriate footwear!
Literature
Cruising guide: "The River Thames Book" by Chris Cove-Smith. English language, with all nautical information, maps and plans (available on board). Very comprehensive description. Imray: 236 p., format: 23.4 x 16 cm, ring binder, ISBN 978-1-84623-462-0, price: 16 €. www.imray.com In Germany: www.hansenautic.de
Travel guide: "The Thames" by Hans-Günter Semsek. Beautiful description of the places, towns and sights. With lots of culture and history. Insel paperback: 238 pages, size: 10.8 x 17.7 cm, paperback, ISBN 978-3-458-35033-0, price: €4.99. www.suhrkamp.de
Charter
We went on our week-long charter trip on a Linssen Grand Sturdy 36.9 AC from Hobbs of Henley, who have their base in Henley, which was also the start and finish point. There is also a slightly smaller 34.9 AC on offer. Trips are possible downriver to Windsor as well as upriver. The company is a partner of the Europe-wide charter network Linssen Boating Holidays ( www.linssenboatingholidays.com ). Information: Hobbs of Henley, The Boat House, Station Road, Henley-on-Thames, RG9 1AZ, United Kingdom, tel. +44/(0)1491/57 20 35. www.hobbsofhenley.com
Our boat
Type: Linssen Grand Sturdy 36.9 AC (steel displacement) - Length: 11.10 m - Width: 3.80 m - Height: 3.80 m - Draught: 1.00 m - Berths: 4 (2 double cabins) - WC/shower: 2/2 - Special equipment: bow and stern thruster, oven, picnic equipment, pegs for shore moorings - Weekly rates: £1700 to £2750 (€1900 to €3070)
Driving licence
The area is licence-free; however, Hobbs of Henley requires demonstrable motorboat experience (such as an official licence) for safety reasons.
experience (such as an official licence). If in doubt, it is better to ask the charter company in advance.
Precinct (Upper Thames)
Length: 217 km (135 mi) from Cricklade to the crossing into the tidal Thames at Teddington Lock - For charter boats: 150 km (93 mi) from Oxford (Folly Bridge) to Teddington - Locks: 41 - Clearance height: some low bridges that can only be passed with the top down, Folly Bridge at Oxford (3.12 m) cannot be passed - Draught: various; officially at least 4 feet (1.22 m) in the fairway - Maximum speed: 8 km/h - Registration: all pleasure craft on the Thames require a registration (licence), which is also available for guests for short periods (1 day, 7 days, 30 days). Costs depend on duration and boat size. www.gov.uk/government/publications/river-thames-visiting-launch-short-period-application
Navigation
Navigation on the tide-free upper Thames is largely uncomplicated - also due to the always manageable width of the river. However, beware of narrow, overgrown passages near islands and close to the banks (water depth) and low arched bridges (keep to the centre!). There are hardly any buoys, but there are signposts at important points (channel = fairway, lock = lock channel, weir = weir arm). Pay particular attention to the many rowers!
