Sheer size has always been relative. The Müritz is a good example: if you ignore Lake Constance, which is shared by three neighbouring countries, it is Germany's largest lake. In a European comparison, however, it only comes in at 143rd place, between Onkivesi in Finland and Virihaure in Sweden. But as I said, size is one of those things. It's not just the two direct Scandinavian competitors that don't stand a chance in terms of appeal. At least when it comes to holidays on the water, few inland waters are as popular with pleasure boaters as the Müritz region in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, regardless of whether they are travelling on their own keel or on a charter cruise. The offer for holiday skippers is correspondingly large.
Many of these charter companies have at least one of their bases on the Müritz or at least in its vicinity. However, the reason for this is not so much their own size, but rather the central location between the neighbouring Mecklenburg Upper Lakes to the west, which include the Müritz itself, and the Kleinseenplatte in the south-east with its adjacent waters. However, this also means that most crews only perceive the Müritz itself as a stage that is completed in one go in order to see as much of the area as possible in a week.
Müritz: A cruise of short distances
With so much variety and the marvellous nature that the Kleinseenplatte between Neustrelitz, Fürstenberg and Rheinsberg has to offer, it's no wonder. There is rarely much time left for the places along the Müritz. A little unfair, you might think. And that's why we're taking this time this time. Is it even possible to spend a whole week just on the Müritz, without locks and queues? The simple answer is: absolutely. Welcome to the cruise of short distances!
If Lake Constance, which is shared by three neighbouring countries, is disregarded, then Müritz is Germany's largest lake
We set off under blue skies in mid-May from the Eldenburg marina near Waren. The holiday resort on the small Reecksee lake (which lies between Binnenmüritz and Kölpinsee) is also the base of Yachtcharter Schulz, whose fleet includes our floating home for the coming days, a new Gruno 37 Excellent. We are underway for less than a quarter of an hour before the wooded banks of the only stretch of canal on the entire trip open up and release us onto the Binnenmüritz, the northernmost part of the Müritz. The towers of the town of Waren can already be seen to the north-east.
Important: Pay attention to the buoyage!
The average depth of the Müritz is just 6.5 metres, so there is no shortage of shallow spots away from the shore. However, if you keep to the buoyage, you are always on the safe side. This is also the case when approaching Waren, where an extensive shoal lurks just one metre below the surface - the aptly named Warener Berg. Just three quarters of an hour after casting off in Eldenburg, we are moored at the foremost floating dock of the im-jaich city harbour goods.
From the harbour, day trippers are drawn along the riverside promenade to Kietzpark or further into the city to Neuer Markt
The town of 20,000 inhabitants is the undisputed tourist centre of the region. In the harbour, the White Fleet is a constant source of comings and goings alongside the pleasure boats. From there, day trippers are drawn to the riverside promenade to Kietzpark or into the city centre to Neuer Markt. Shops, cafés and restaurants await on every corner, such as the Ratskeller with its hearty Mecklenburg cuisine. But the main attraction is the Müritzeumwhose successful mix of adventure centre, aquarium and natural history exhibition is really worth seeing and reveals a lot about the region. Nature in general: Waren lies on the doorstep of the Müritz National Parkwhich is easy to reach by bike or bus.
Numerous sights away from the water
The stage on the second day is also barely longer than five kilometres: The route leads back across the Binnenmüritz and finally southwards at the "Ecktannen" buoy, up onto the open Müritz. From here, it would be around 16 kilometres or about an hour and a half's ride to the southern crossing into the Kleine Müritz. But this time we have made the announcement that we will leave later and still arrive earlier, so we head for Klink. The relaxed harbour is located directly on the west bank. A stone pier protects the jetties with pile boxes (www.hafen-klink.de). Immediately to the south is the impressive silhouette of the castle, which was completed in 1898. After an eventful history, it is now Wellness hotel. The summer alternative is the Klink beach, which can be reached on foot in ten minutes. Not only does the wide sandy beach really deserve its name, but the bistro, beach bar and SUP hire also ensure a holiday atmosphere (www.strandlaeufer-mueritz.de).
The next short stage takes us into the countryside, to the water hiking rest area in the village of Sietow on the lake arm of the same name. As we arrive at a time when the last late risers are just leaving, we have free choice of the long, fixed T-jetty and take a spot on the very outside. The open Müritz glistens between the reed-lined banks of the bay. Now for lunch: at the fisherman's hut, just a few steps away at the harbour, blue smoke curls out of the chimney (www.fischerhuette-sietow.de). With smoked eel and fried Müritz vendace on a roll, we let our legs dangle by the boat sheds.
Röbel is Waren's little sister
The next day, we continue until we reach the Röbeler Binnensee. Colourful boathouses, club sheds and jetties jut out into the water, and after a final bend, Röbel comes into view. We moor at the municipal jetty opposite the Gothic St Mary's Church, a floating jetty with finger pontoons (www.roebel.m-vp.de/stadthafen-roebel). Röbel is like the smaller (and quieter) sister of Waren: during a stroll through the town, you can follow in the footsteps of the Wachsergeant Bartholomäus Bradhering or the town founder Ritter Nicolaus zu Werle and finally come to the historic mill on the former castle hill on the edge of the old town. Also interesting (not only in bad weather): the adventure pool Müritzthermeabout 1.5 kilometres from the jetty.
And again we continue southwards, around the peninsulas of Großer Schwerin and Steinhorn and past the Ludorf campsite. In the background, yellow rapeseed glows in the fields. Our destination is Rechlin, which is the only place that not only has a harbour directly on the Müritz (namely the marina of the Harbour village Müritz in the Claassee, but also on the neighbouring Kleine Müritz to the south. There, guests come to the Sailing harbour Rechlin which is located directly in the village with good supply options. Although the harbour village is located three kilometres out of town, it offers the services of a large marina and is also adjacent to the grounds of the Museum of Aviation Technology.
The Müritz - not a lake like any other
We actually wanted to end our exploration of the Müritz with its southernmost branch, the approximately eight kilometre long, very scenic Müritz arm. At its end is the reed-fringed Müritzsee lake with the floating docks of the Marina Buchholz. But the weather throws a spanner in the works: tomorrow there are supposed to be strong winds, six to seven Beaufort from the north. That's clearly too much for another crossing of the Müritz - and from the wrong direction to boot. So after casting off, we turn the bow northwards again today, with the prospect of another cosy evening in Waren.
It has already freshened up when we reach the open water surface and our steel displacer braces itself against the first short, steep waves. In the haze, the dark banks begin to dissolve into grey nothingness. The Müritz now seems wider, bigger. We suddenly understand why the Slavic tribes who once settled here did not regard it as a lake like any other. And why they gave it this special name: morice. Small sea.
Information Müritz
OUR BOAT
- Gruno 37 Excellent (steel displacer)
- Length: 11.30 m
- Width: 3.75 m
- Draught: 1.00 m
- Engine: Diesel (55 hp)
- Berths: 4 (2 double cabins) + 2 (saloon)
- WC/shower: 2/2
- Equipment: bow and stern thruster, television (DVB-T), 90-litre refrigerator, heating, etc.
- Weekly prices: from € 1795.50 to € 2840.50 depending on the season.
CHARTER
We completed our week-long charter trip on a Gruno 37 Excellent from Yachtcharter Schulz (see above). The company is one of the largest providers in the north-east and currently has a network of five bases in the inland area and on the Bodden coast, between which one-way trips are also possible. There is also a base in Poland (Masuria). In our case, the starting point and destination was the Eldenburg marina near Waren. The area of the Mecklenburg Upper Lakes or Kleinseenplatte can also be explored during this time; there are also destinations for longer trips. Information: Yachtcharter Schulz. An der Reeck 17, 17192 Waren/Müritz, Tel. 03991/12 14 15. www.bootsurlaub.de
The TOP 3 in the district
- Goods Coffee at the harbour, a walk along the water, then marvel at the exhibition in the Müritzeum. Don't miss it!
- Röbel Especially if you're not in a hurry, you should definitely treat yourself to an afternoon at the Müritztherme.
- Sietow Discover the surrounding nature from a different perspective on one of the numerous hiking trails.
Distances
S Eldenburg (charter base) - Waren: 4.5 km
- Waren - Klink: 6 km
- Klink - Sietow: 6.5 km
- Sietow - Röbel: 9 km
- Röbel - Rechlin (sailing harbour): 17 km
- Rechlin - Eldenburg (charter base):5 km
Z Eldenburg (charter base)
Total distance: 68 km
