But at least as far as Passau, the situation remains the same as on the Main: many of the old towns with their sights make it difficult for boaters to discover their charms. If there is a harbour or mooring at all, they are often far away from the historic centres.
Bamberg: The MBC Regnitz-Main is located at the mouth of the left arm of the Regnitz (the right arm forms the Main-Danube Canal). A 20 metre long jetty is available to guests. It is a good 2 km walk from here to the old town of Bamberg with its idyllic fishing quarter "Little Venice" and the "Old Town Hall", which stands colourfully between the arches of the "Upper Bridge" in the middle of the Regnitz. It's a long but rewarding journey, as Bamberg is considered by many to be the most beautiful city in Germany.
If there were a sports boat mooring on the Main-Danube Canal, for example at the Kettenbrücke bridge, water travellers would be very close to this World Heritage Site. Or do the people of Bamberg not even realise that the canal passes so close to their treasures? The Bamberg lock keeps us waiting for an hour. A boat travelling down the valley had priority. A foretaste of the lock regime on the MDK? It tends to be, because it's no longer as smooth as on the Main. Silence reigns above the lock: two commercial vessels and a motor yacht are the only encounters of the day until Forchheim. The high canal bed offers a view of the lower-lying surroundings, but there is nothing of any significance to be seen.
At the Forchheim yacht club, the rustic "harbour sheriff" Horst Brandel welcomes us not with a "colt in his belt", but with an axe over his shoulder: there is always something to do on the yacht club's spacious camping meadow. The harbour is located in an oxbow lake of the Regnitz in front of the old Regnitz bridge (water, electricity, showers, WC). It takes a good ten minutes to walk to the centre of the town, the gateway to Franconian Switzerland. Once a Carolingian imperial palace and later the most important fortress of the Bamberg diocese, the old town centre still enchants visitors with its magnificent half-timbered buildings, including the Old Town Hall. The Franconian way of life is celebrated in the "Forchheimer Kellern" (traditional pubs, usually with a beer garden) with a cool beer and a hearty Franconian snack. Not to be missed!
"The early bird catches the worm". Not in Forchheim harbour! At 5.30 a.m., a passing motor vessel sends such waves into the marina that the "Troll", moored alongside the jetty, hits the side a few times and our crockery from the previous evening crashes to the cockpit floor. We sail another 40 kilometres along the second oldest section of the Main-Danube Canal. The Hausen and Erlangen locks annoy us with the powerful pressure of the water flowing in at the chamber wall. Even with two people, the boat is difficult to hold. Now I understand why the cruising guide "Gewässerkarte Main, Main-Donau-Kanal" states: "When locking uphill, do not underestimate the strong inflow of water."
In the harbour of the 1st MYC Nuremberg, we are warmly welcomed by harbour master Gottfried Leonhard. And while I am writing this text, I hear from Nuremberg that Gottfried Leonhard died of a heart condition on 16 October. We will never forget him and his tireless willingness to help. We hope that the people of Nuremberg will find a worthy successor for Gottfried. A long way into the city The MYC harbour is located on the south-western outskirts of the city, a good 5 km from the centre. Take the 69 bus from Südwestpark (600 m from the harbour) to Gustav-Adolf-Platz and from there take the U3 to the city centre.
It is humid as we leave the cosy city of Nuremberg. Together with MS "Bavaria 80", we pass through the Nuremberg, Eibach and Leerstetten locks. Eibach is the first lock on the canal section from Nuremberg to Kelheim, which was only opened in 1992. From here to Dietfurt, the locks have eight floating bollards distributed along the eastern wall of the chamber (on the port side when travelling uphill towards the Danube). Problem: If the commercial shipping ahead does not leave enough space "behind", you cannot get to any floating bollards. As the first bollard at the entrance is around 20 metres away from the lower gate, it is often already in the stern area of the motor vessel and is therefore out of bounds for a pleasure craft. In this case, the only option is the ladder or an alcove bollard on the starboard side of the chamber.
As we ascend the enormous lifting height of 24.67 metres in the Leerstetten lock, the sultriness unloads in a thunderstorm. With consequences: An hour later, when we radio in at the Eckersmühlen lock, the lock keeper announces: "We've been struck by lightning. The lower gate can't be moved." The repair takes 3 1/2 hours, which we spend in the boat in apocalyptic rain. Then we go up 24.67 metres for the second time and the third concrete block of this size is the Hilpoltstein lock. And now exactly what I described earlier happens to us: Commercial shipping travelling ahead blocks all the floating bollards and we tie up to a ladder on the starboard side with two lock hooks plus ropes.
The water shoots up the chamber wall with such force that even two of us cannot hold "Troll" and have to abandon a lock hook and mooring line. Hanging from the ladder rung, it disappears into the water. We manage to release the second hook and start the engine. Under engine power, I keep "Troll" clear of the lower gate and the motorised vessel in front of us in a confined space. It's amazing that the lock keeper doesn't comment on our dicey manoeuvre. Did he not even notice in the end?
In our exhaustion, we hardly realise that we have reached the crest and that we will soon pass the granite sculpture that marks the European watershed. How good that Bachhausen is our first valley lock and doesn't challenge us any more. In the pitch dark and dead tired, we moor at the Berching yacht club's guest jetty. What a horrible day's stage: 12 1/2 hours for 55 kilometres and five locks. The next morning, the clean sanitary facilities in the clubhouse of the Berching Yacht Club do us a world of good.
The sun even peeps out as we make our way to the town, which is not quite so far away this time (around
1 km). The "jewel of the Middle Ages" is surrounded by a very well-preserved old town wall with four gates and nine towers, which is a must-see. Convenient: an Edeka supermarket and a bakery are just 300 metres from the harbour. But even on this day, not everything runs smoothly. When registering at the Berching lock, the lock keeper says: "You can come in behind MS Mira." After
45 minutes, "Mira" passes us in the direction of the lock. At a good distance from the screw water of "Mira", we set course for the lock when suddenly, a few metres in front of us, the upper gate comes out of the water: stop and full speed backwards!
With my adrenaline levels high, I reach for the spark and shout: "We're registered and should be coming in behind 'Mira'!" "Oh yes, you can come in in five minutes." The gate goes up completely, then down again, and we enter. What a sh...t feeling when a lock keeper sleeps so brutally! A cool dip in the canal
Misfortune rarely comes alone: in the underwater part of the lock, "Troll" suddenly gets chills and rumbles like a dervish. We've caught something. I get into the cool water and cut a mighty "tangle of rope" out of the propeller. Now I've had a dip in the Main-Danube Canal.
We are rewarded with a lunch stop in Beilngries: in the harbour of the Motor Yacht Club Altmühltal, we enjoy Upper Palatinate lamb and fresh Franconian (or Upper Palatinate?) asparagus on the terrace of the club's own restaurant "Zum Hafen". From Beilngries down to Kelheim, the Main-Danube Canal shows its full beauty in sunny weather. The scars that were inflicted on the magnificent Altmühltal when the canal was built seem to have healed completely. On this stretch, you have the feeling of travelling on a natural river.
To understand the operating instructions for the Riedenburg and Kelheim sports boat locks (chamber size 20 m x 4 m), which are written in convoluted official German, you should have a few years of administrative experience.
In any case, the lock passage is easier than the instructions suggest. Just 5 kilometres below the Kelheim lock, the Main-Danube Canal joins the Danube after 171 kilometres, and the lively current is immediately noticeable: Instead of 12 km/h, our GPS now shows almost 17 km/h over ground. So the Danube is giving us a good 4 kilometres per hour! After 1.5 km, today's "Danube stage" ends in the harbour of Marine Center Donau GmbH in Saal. Comprehensive boat and engine servicing, an 80-tonne crane, boat accessories and a petrol and diesel station (the only one on the German Danube, by the way!) make this harbour ideal for a final technical polish of the boat before the big trip up the Danube.
In the Italian restaurant "Da Raffaele", which has a terrace on the first floor of the harbour building, the name is more melodious than what comes out of the kitchen. Just ten minutes into our journey the next morning, a pleasure boat with a dead engine is anchored in the Danube. We take "Jenny 2" on the hook and tow her into the Donautal sports boat harbour in Kapfelberg. So at least we have seen this beautiful facility of the MBC Kelheim. The Bad Abbach sports boat lock (chamber size 20 m x 4 m) is quickly negotiated, and we also pass through the sports boat lock in Regensburg, which leads into the southern arm of the Danube.
There are three jetties here on the island between the south and north arms of the Danube. We moor at the jetty of the
1. MWSC Regensburg because it is the closest to the Danube bridge "Eiserner Steg" - and therefore the direct route to the old town. You also have an impressive view of the magnificent backdrop of Regensburg from here. Less nice is the fact that the club has no sanitary facilities, but charges 16 euros for the berth including water and electricity for our 8-metre boat. Pretty steep. There are a few nice restaurants just a few steps above the club jetty on Schopperplatz and in Badstraße (which leads to the Eiserner Steg). We opt for "Hagens Auberge" (Badstraße 54) in the upper price range and are not disappointed.
Farewell to Regensburg: The "Troll" shoots through the Stone Bridge with gusto, where the arched foundations narrow the river, further accelerating the already powerful current. On the mountain, "Troll" would probably not stand a chance here. Past the Walhalla, the monumental memorial to German personalities in a seemingly out-of-place replica of the Pantheon, and the "smallest wine-growing region in Germany", which lies east of Regensburg between Tegernheim and Wörth an der Donau on the right bank of the river, the journey continues towards Straubing, 55 kilometres and two locks away.
A city I've always wanted to see. The only annoying thing is that there's not a trace of a mooring for pleasure craft. But there is a WSA winter harbour in the Wehrarm zu Berg, just below the castle bridge and therefore close to the town centre. So I call the WSA Regensburg branch office in Straubing and ask very carefully, "whether it might be possible ... also for the night ... we'd really like to see Straubing."
The friendly Mr Ammann has barely spoken when he says: "Permission has just been granted." So we are moored very exotically at the sheet pile wall of the WSA harbour, and an employee even gives us access to the electricity box and a key to enter the harbour. And it's all just a ten-minute walk from the centre of Straubing, in absolute peace and quiet.
There are plenty of restaurants, bakeries, butchers and clothes shops in the centre, but a supermarket? Not a chance! "Yes," says an elderly lady, "the last supermarket in the centre is now gone too. Everything is outside now." Although she is afraid to give strangers a lift, she drives us in her car to an industrial estate with a Real supermarket, Lidl, drinks market, etc. We stock up and take a taxi back to the harbour.
You won't soon forget beautiful Straubing with its friendly people, magnificent town houses around the town square, the striking town tower and the cosy inns all around. The only thing missing is the marina.
We need 2 1/2 hours for the 37 km lock-free journey from Straubing to Deggendorf. So the Danube has become a little slower here and is only flowing at just under 3 km/h. Lunch break in the Deggendorf harbour. Four clubs are based here. We moor at the Niederbayerischer Motoryachtclub Landshut. Not because it is the last mooring in the harbour, but because the "Yellow Wave" can be seen from afar.
We are delighted that this water tourism signpost has also arrived in Lower Bavaria! We had already heard at the jetty in Regensburg that "the people in Hofkirchen are particularly nice people". In the small harbour, we moor at the central jetty in front of the "Donauperle", the magnificent club ship. (Water and electricity at the jetty, sanitary facilities in the club ship, 6.3 tonne crane). We quickly feel at home on the terrace of the "Donauperle" with its magnificent view over the harbour. In the evening, we experience Bavarian cosiness with delicious food in the beer garden of the "Gasthof Buchner" (450 m).
8 kilometres below Hofkirchen, we pass Vilshofen. At least in terms of water tourism, this town in the "Danube Valley Adventure Region" is not "On the River of Time", as the tourist adverts so beautifully put it. Although the town has a very active boating club, it has absolutely no mooring facilities. The BSV complains on its homepage: "Facilities of any kind that are conducive to and could promote water sports may not be built. For example, it is only possible to anchor our boats in front of the property.
It is therefore very difficult for the BSV to accommodate boating friends travelling by water." The BSV members hope that the planned harbour facility will be approved by the city of Vilshofen
and that it will be realised in whatever form. Between Vilshofen and Passau we experience that the Danube can become uncomfortable. An easterly wind of 5 to 6 Beaufort (wind against the current) creates such a steep wave that we even have to close the skylights to avoid being showered with Danube water. In these conditions, it is quite uncomfortable at the MYC Passau's guest jetty and we are very happy that the people in Passau let us manoeuvre into the harbour basin, which is actually limited to 7 m, despite our 8 m length.
Skippers and crews can relax and unwind here: Water, electricity, sanitary facilities, 4-t crane, very nice clubhouse with terrace, pool, play equipment, etc. There is a bus to the town, a good six kilometres away, which of course is a must-see. We pass the Kachlet lock on our own! Then we can enjoy Passau's magnificent scenery from the water.
Shortly below Passau, at Danube kilometre 2223, the Danube becomes a border river: We fly the Austrian guest flag. We have a snack in Obernzell, the last German Danube harbour, where the members of the Danube Water Sports Association invite us to "Radi" with tomatoes and bread. The first marina on the Austrian bank, the spacious harbour of Kasten (Danube km 2208.4 RU), is surprisingly empty. Below the Jochenstein lock, the last German lock, the river now only belongs to Austria and, gently nestled in the green hills, immediately appears particularly splendid.
We head towards the first absolute landscape and water sports highlight: the Schlögener Schlinge
and the Schlögen marina. The marina is located in the first of the two mighty Danube loops, perfectly protected from the turbulence of the Danube by a narrow dam. If you take location, facilities
facilities and services, this harbour is the absolute number 1 on the route to Budapest.
nothing is missing here, neither for the physical well-being nor for the well-being of the boat.
So it almost goes without saying that there is also a boat filling station (petrol, diesel) here. But there is also a swimming pool, good catering, a mini-market and fresh bread rolls in the morning. So it's no wonder that an entire jetty in this marina is firmly in German, or more precisely, Bavarian hands. Of course, "Troll" is recognised during the photo session in the harbour: "You can moor here."
And we are already immersed in summer life on jetty "D" for "Deutschland" and experience first-hand how German crews here enjoy the Austrian Danube to the full: "If I had to sail on the Bavarian Danube, I wouldn't be on the water at all," says Anselm, and the group nods in agreement. You have to "experience" the difference: lunch break at the "Gierlinger" inn in Obermühl.
The boats at the hotel's own jetty in the mouth of the mill. Ten kilometres downstream: anchoring and swimming break at the mouth of the "Große Mühl". What a beautiful stretch of the Danube, for which some from jetty "D" have even given up Croatia.
At the first Austrian Danube lock, Aschach, we learn something new: locks are only opened if the crew members
crew members involved in the lock passage have put on life jackets. This is monitored meticulously. If someone has forgotten their lifejacket, the loudspeaker promptly announces: "Please put on your lifejacket, otherwise you will not be able to continue."
Our day's stage ends in Oberlandshaag, in the harbour of the MYC Kachlet (Danube km 2159.8 LU). We moor at the long guest jetty (water + electricity), showers and WC in the clubhouse. We cross the mighty Danube bridge to reach Aschach, which is well worth a visit. We stop for dinner at the "Fischerhof" inn, which is located on our side of the Danube a little above the bridge and is highly recommended.
The last 30 of the less spectacular Danube kilometres of the second stage take us to Linz. There we have registered "Troll" for a longer stopover at the Motoryachtclub Nibelungen (Danube kilometre 2131.9 LU). The jetty in the winter harbour is not very attractively situated between the outskirts of the city and the industrial area. There is water and electricity at the jetty, which is closed to the outside, and showers and toilets in a construction trailer.
The attractive town centre is around 2.5 km away.
To be continued.
WHAT SKIPPERS NEED TO KNOW
Kilometres The Main-Danube Canal is kilometre-long from the branch from the Main at Main-km 384 starting at MDK-km 0.0 towards the Danube. At kilometre 170.80, it flows into the Danube, which is at kilometre 2411.45. The Danube is kilometre-long from its mouth into the Black Sea (km 0.00) to Berg.
Fairway depth Main-Danube Canal: at least 2.50 m; Danube: depending on water level, at least 2.00 m at low water in the free-flowing river between Straubing and Vilshofen. Clearance height Main-Danube Canal: lowest clearance height at the highest navigable water level (HSW) at the chain bridge Bamberg 5.33 m; Danube: lowest clearance height at the highest navigable water level (HSW) railway bridge Deggendorf 4.40 m.
Flow The flow speed of the Danube is between 2 and 15 km/h, depending on the section and water level.
Travelling speed The maximum permitted speed on the Main-Danube Canal with a draught of less than 1.30 m is 13 km/h; from 1.30 m draught 11 km/h. No restriction on the Danube.
Travel authorisation According to the Danube Navigation Police Regulations, a navigation permit is required for pleasure craft wishing to navigate the Danube below Austria. This free document is issued by the WSA Regensburg, Erlanger Str. 1. www.wsa-regensburg.wsv.de
Refuelling Danube: Marine Centre Donau in Saal (km 2410.0 RU). Diesel, petrol. From 1 April to 31 October Monday to Friday 8am to 12pm and 1pm to 5pm, Sat and Sun 10am to 5pm. Telephone 09441-68 86 60.
Marina Schlögen (km 2188.0 RU). Diesel, petrol. 1 April to 31 October daily 8.30 am to 12 noon and
14 to 17 hrs. Telephone 0043-7279-87 22 or -82 41.
