A Saturday evening in July, silence lies over the water. We are in Jachthaven Eldorado on the Mookerplas, one of the many beautiful lakes along the Limburgse Maas, stretching our legs: After a cosy trip from Roermond to here, the mooring beer tastes good.
It's nice in Jachthaven Eldorado, cosy and very comfortable. But, with all due respect for the amenities on offer, what a name for a harbour so deep in the Dutch province: "Eldorado". After all, the myth that inspired it tells of nothing less than a Garden of Eden, a distant land of gold that fulfils our human longing for boundless carefreeness. No one has yet found this paradise, not even the poets. "But sometimes," wrote Joseph von Eichendorff, "it emerges from dreams as if it lay far out at sea ..." The sea. That's where we want to go.
Our journey will take us from Roermond to Texel and back. We have two weeks. Our boat can switch to planing if necessary - that suits us. Our route will take us from the Limburgse Maas via Maas-Waalkanaal to the Waal near Nijmegen. After about 20 kilometres upstream, we will leave the Waal and switch to the Pannerdenskanaal.
South of Arnhem, we head downstream on the Gelderse IJssel to the Ketelmeer and IJsselmeer. After crossing the Markermeer, we want to head for Den Helder via the North Holland canal network. From there we will set course for the West Frisian Wadden Sea island of Texel, about 6.5 nm away. We plan to return to the IJsselmeer via Den Oever.
The rest of our journey home from the Ketelmeer will follow the same route as before. All in all, a colourful potpourri of waterways awaits us, with very different demands on the boat, skipper and crew: rivers and canals, modern major shipping routes and historic waterways, open waters and a tidal area.
Day two of our tour. We have said goodbye to the Mookerplas and after a few minutes' drive we reach the approximately 13.5 km long Maas-Waalkanaal, which reaches the Waal in Weurt near Nijmegen. Opened in 1927, the Maas-Waalkanaal is neither beautiful nor relaxing. This is because we now have to share the waterway with columns of commercial vessels.
April 2006, a tragic accident occurs on the Maas-Waalkanaal: a tanker and a motor yacht collide. Two people on the pleasure craft die. Today, large posters on the riverbank warn of tricky situations between large vessels and pleasure craft - including the so-called "dode hoek", the "blind spot". This refers to the area in front of the bow of a commercial vessel that cannot be seen from the helm of such a "giant".
Rule of thumb for skippers: If the wheelhouse of a large ship is recognisable, then you are in the professional's field of vision. So "Rondum zicht", as one of the posters recommends in large letters - keep your eyes open in all directions. The posters, which can also be found on other Dutch waterways, are part of the "Varen doe je samen!" project. Info: www.vdjs.nl
The bottom gate of the Weurt lock opens, now it's only a few metres to the Waal. We pass the futuristic-looking Verkeers-post Nijmegen and finally enter the river at Waal-km 887. We have about 20 kilometres uphill ahead of us. As the most imposing estuary in the Rhine delta, the Waal takes over from the Rhine with all its spate marks.
Its course begins soon after the Dutch-German border, where the Rhine (which now bears the name "Bijlandskanaal") branches into the Waal and Pannerdenskanaal. Some 84 kilometres further down the valley, the Waal becomes the Boven Merwede. Because of the little spokes: Like the Rhine, the Waal is a busy artery with a strong current. Ideally, the current is around 5 km/h, but we have to deal with a strong 6 km/h. And that's not all.
On this Sunday morning, the commercial shipping ploughs through the water in clusters and produces veritable wave crests that combine to form considerable cross-seas. To add to the hullabaloo, a fresh westerly wind is blowing against the current. And as if all this wasn't circus enough, heavy rain suddenly sets in. We struggle upriver at a displacement speed. Before we lose all our good humour, we prefer to give our boat the reins. Now we're travelling at speed, and the journey becomes more pleasant.
Nevertheless, we only pass a few big "pots" bit by bit. For safety reasons, we have stayed below the maximum speed of our diesel engine and, after deducting the current speed, are now travelling at around 30 km/h over ground. A decent speed, but obviously not enough to overtake a modern large vessel with ease.
Current: A buoyed fairway for pleasure craft only is to be set up on the Waal near Nij-megen during the 2010 season on a trial basis. A pilot project that makes sense. At Waal kilometre 867, we set our oars for the Pannerdenskanaal. The water, which merges into the Neder-Rijn after about 6 kilometres, welcomes us without any roughness, and we have less large vessels to deal with. Instead, for the first time, other vessels need to be manoeuvred carefully: Yaw pontoons. Ferries of this type are suspended from a steel cable that is anchored in the river and marked by buoys. The ferryman positions the yaw pontoon in relation to the current so that it is pulled to the opposite bank by the course of the river. We pass the ferries opposite their respective mooring points and keep a safe distance from the anchoring and rope.
In 1657, the principle of the yaw pontoon is said to have been developed just around the corner, in Nijmegen. Decades later, gun smoke hangs over the area and the region has once again aroused foreign desires. This time, a line of defence was built near Pannerden. A trench is also dug in the process. At the beginning of the 18th century, this ditch was connected to the Neder-Rijn and Bijlandskanaal canals and made navigable. This is the birth of the Pannerdenskanaal shipping route.
After Pannerdenskanaal and Neder-Rijn, we take the Gelderse IJssel under the keel at Arnhem, a river some 120 kilometres long that flows into the Ketelmeer. The Gelderse IJssel flows northwards full of bends and becomes increasingly gentle on its way there. Its banks move further and further apart, and what was initially a river rushing along at speeds of up to 6 km/h becomes a leisurely flowing body of water that barely makes any perceptible progress in its lower reaches.
Green banks, famous towns, inviting marinas - the Gelderse IJssel is one of the most charming sections of this cruise. In some ways, it is like the Rhine's "little sister", a charming river that is nevertheless a real challenge. When narrow fairways and strong currents, tight bends and heavy shipping come together, the skipper needs to be extremely attentive. Once again, it's all about maintaining all-round visibility, looking ahead, using the radio - and putting yourself in the shoes of the professional skippers, who don't have an easy job on the Gelderse IJssel either.
They lie like pearls on the Gelderse IJssel: the Hanseatic towns of Doesburg, Zutphen and Deventer, Hattem, Zwolle, Kampen and Hasselt. Their glorious past shines out from behind almost every stone, sparkling from turrets and volute gables, shimmering through stained glass windows and bull's-eye windows. History can be experienced here with all the senses - even tasted. A number of restaurants in the area serve hearty Hanseatic-style dishes, such as the "Bij d'n Open Haard" in the centre of Zutphen.
At our stop in Zutphen (river kilometre 928), we moor at the WV Gelre in the old Vispoorthaven, a very cosy place to stay, although it is also very cramped. The harbour is within walking distance of the city centre and has all the usual facilities. Caution: There is a strong neer current in front of the entrance, so enter quickly and keep to the centre.
Jachthaven Dorado Beach, which we visit on our return journey, is a completely different type of harbour on the Gelderse IJssel. The facility with the enticing name is located on Het Zwarte Schaar, a side arm of the Gelderse IJssel, which branches off at around river kilometre 905N. You are surrounded by greenery and enjoy all kinds of comforts. The harbour is part of a holiday park with all the necessary amenities, and there is also a restaurant and a shop.
But we are not yet on our way home. We have only just left Zutphen behind us and are now following the Gelderse IJssel further downstream. At Kampen we reach a magic marker: river kilometre 1000. As the Gelderse IJssel is part of the Rhine delta, it continues the Rhine kilometre marker (as do the other estuaries). Then, at around river kilometre 1002, the fairway splits. We take the main route, the Keteldiep. After another four kilometres we are on the Ketelmeer, and suddenly the space seems to widen.
In the distance, we can make out the outline of the mighty Ketelbrug, behind which we think we can already see the IJsselmeer. The wind from the sea blows in our faces. A new section of our journey has begun. Behind the Ketelbrug, we set course for Lelystad. That's where we're supposed to finish for the day. On the other hand, what's wrong with adding the jump across the Markermeer? Nothing, on the contrary, the afternoon is young and the weather is perfect - a real stroke of luck after the heavenly cancellations of the last few days.
Without having to wait long, we pass through the Houtribsluizen from the IJsselmeer to the Markermeer. About an hour and a half later, our boat is already moored in Marina Monnickendam, a hospitable and well-equipped harbour facility. A long, beautiful day on the water draws to a close. A fitting finale: a visit to the star restaurant "De Posthoorn" not far from the marina.
It was a debacle that began to emerge in the 17th century. On their return to Holland, the heavily laden East Indiamen were still able to navigate around the shallows of the Zuiderzee with a great deal of luck. But at some point, there was no getting past the sandbanks off Amsterdam. Smaller ships had to take on the cargo of the colossi and transport it to Amsterdam harbour. Or a "ship's camel" was attached to the hull of an East Indiaman, a kind of mobile floating dock that lifted the ship by the missing hand's breadth of water under the keel.
A costly affair that did not suit the world trade metropolis of Amsterdam at all. So a new route had to be found, one that made the route across the Zuiderzee superfluous. As a canal to the North Sea at IJmuiden was not yet technically possible, the decision was made in favour of a connection between Amsterdam and the coastal town of Den Helder. The Noordhollandsch Kanaal, which was around 80 kilometres long, was completed in 1824. However, it soon reached the limits of its capacity, and with the opening of the Noordzeekanaal from Amsterdam to IJmuiden, which was only 24 kilometres long, in 1876, the Noordhollandsch Kanaal was out of business.
From Monnickendam, we head for the Noordhollandsch Kanaal via Trekvaart Het Schouw-Monnickendam-Edam. We don't get really enthusiastic about the Noordhollandsch Kanaal until after Purmerend: the banks are now more varied and there are finally enough places to lie down on the Alkmaarder Meer. Then we reach the "cheese heads", which is not meant disrespectfully at all.
The nickname for the citizens of Alkmaar is more akin to an accolade, as the name recalls the city's magnificent victory over the Spanish in the 16th century. When it came to the defence of Alkmaar, the resisters put wooden cheese moulds - the Kaaskoppen - over their heads. A clever protective measure that earned the people of Alkmaar this nickname. The town is otherwise a tourist highlight, if only because of its famous cheese market (Fridays 10.00 - 12.30, from the first Friday in April to the first Friday in September). The most idyllic moorings are on the Stadsgracht Luttik Oudorp (July/August only, see Wateralmanak 2 for details).
In Alkmaar we leave the Noordhollandsch Kanaal and take a more attractive route northwards: via Kraspolder Kanaal and Kanaal Omval-Kolhorn to Kolhorn, from there via Waardkanaal, Amstelmeer and Balgzandkanaal to Den Helder. A simple jetty in the greenery near Oudkarspel turns out to be an atmospheric place to spend the night on the Kanaal Omval-Kolhorn. In another inlet of the Kanaal Omval-Kolhorn, south of Nieuwe Niedorp, lies Jachthaven De Rijd - a cosy spot with a restaurant on the water. And then there is Kolhorn, the former fishing village: until 1844, the open sea, the Zuiderzee, used to break here.
Today, Kolhorn lies dreamily in the middle of a vast polder landscape. The old hamlet has been beautifully renovated, with neat moorings along the banks. The pubs, "De Roode Leeuw" and "'t Anker", are located directly on the canal.
It is now our fifth day of sailing. The wind has been picking up steadily since the morning. In the afternoon, as we are about to move into our box in the Willemsoord passing harbour in Den Helder, a huge gust grabs our boat and lays it across like a toy - greetings from the sea, we're here. Once we've sorted ourselves out, we hold our anemometer up to the angry forces of the sky: 5 to 6 Beaufort, 7 Beaufort at peak times. Outside, off Den Helder, the sea is foaming.
Three sea areas - the North Sea, the Marsdiep and the Wadden Sea - surround the town high in the north of North Holland. A location that already made Den Helder interesting for Napoleon I. The French emperor ordered the construction of defences and a naval dockyard. The Dutchman Jan Blanken Janszoon, who would later also design the Noordhollandsch Kanaal, was responsible for its construction. The shipyard was completed in the early 1820s under Dutch King Willem I, who also gave it its name: "Rijkswerf Willemsoord". The Royal Navy used the shipyard until 1993, when it was renovated and remodelled.
The result is a jewel: around the "Natte Dok", which houses a number of historic ships and, since 2008, a modern passenger harbour, there is so much entertainment that you should plan enough time for it. The impressive stops in Willemsoord include the Marinemuseum and the Nationaal Reddingmuseum Dorus Rijkers. There are also places to eat and drink on the shipyard site, and the city centre with its restaurants and shops is close by.
We are greeted by sunshine the next morning, accompanied by a moderate to light breeze. The first skipper to come in to Willemsoord by sea signals: "Everything's fine out there. You can sail!" The Zeedoksluis transports us from the "Natte Dok" to the marina on the Wadden Sea side. As we have a VHF radio on board, we listen to channel 62 (Rijks Haven Coördinatie Centrum) as we leave the harbour. After leaving the harbour, we leave the Marsdiep on the port side and take the deep, buoyed Texel Current with a direct course to Oudeschild, Texel.
We are being pushed by rising water, but it is barely noticeable. The wind and waves are also coming from astern, which we are well aware of. Especially since we are without land cover. The swell that is now following us is not without its challenges. Now we have to sensitively adjust the speed of our glider to the swell. Off Oudeschild, we follow VHF channel 12 as prescribed (Rijkshaven Oudeschild, mandatory reporting on Mondays and Fridays when the fishing fleet leaves or arrives). And then we are already at our destination.
The approximately 6.5-nm crossing from Den Helder to Oudeschild took just over half an hour. A stone's throw, nothing more. We pull through to Waddenhaven Texel, a state-of-the-art marina that connects to Visserijhaven, Werkhaven and Verenigings-haven. And as it is still early in the morning, we have no trouble finding a suitable berth. That's a good thing, because we won't be able to leave it until further notice. Strong winds are forecast.
Admittedly, the mishap could not have happened anywhere better than on the holiday island of Texel - boredom is practically impossible here. Even marina holidaymakers are well connected to the island's attractions. You can either hire a bike or take the bus. Oudeschild, the home harbour of Texel's fishing fleet, is also a great place to spend time. There are cosy restaurants in the harbour and the village also has a small supermarket. Tip: "De Texelse Visspecialist" just behind the Oudeschild dyke. Fish and seafood are offered in many variations.
We stroll back to the boat, past excursion boats and modern cutters, enjoying the hustle and bustle on the quays. When Oudeschild was given this harbour in 1780, an era came to an end - that of the famous Texel roadstead.
This anchorage in the mudflats stretched from the northern tip of North Holland to Terschelling. On the Marsdiep, the sea inlet south of Texel, there were often dozens of them - warships, expedition ships, East Indiamen.
On their way from the harbours of the Zuiderzee out into the world, the captains stopped once again, mainly to wait for favourable winds. The Texel roadstead was reasonably well protected, but when a storm came up, it was not uncommon for disaster to strike. This was the case on Christmas Eve in 1593, when a storm swept over around 150 anchored ships. 44 of them sank, killing around a thousand people.
The weather keeps us on Texel for two days. Then a window of opportunity opens up: Tomorrow the wind is expected to drop to 4 Beaufort for a short time. We get everything ready for the return journey. As the tide falls, we set course for Den Oever (observe VHF listening obligations). We will have enough depth in the main fairway even at low tide, but the shortcut through the "Bollen" is no longer advisable. Once again, the current pushes us along, again barely noticeably. However, the westerly wind is pushing a considerable swell onto our starboard side.
We change to a more westerly course closer to Texel and the annoying rolling stops immediately. With a stern wind, we turn into the "Malzwin" fairway, which merges into the "Visjagersgaatje". The swell is soon no longer worth mentioning. Just under an hour and a half after our start in Oudeschild, we slip through the Afsluitdijk at Den Oever. The IJsselmeer is pushing us with hack, but we stay a while longer and pay our respects to the beauties of Medemblik, Enkhuizen and Urk. But then we have to return, inevitably.
WHAT SKIPPERS NEED TO KNOW
The boatJeanneau Merry Fisher 805, length 8.25 m, width 2.94 m, draught 0.74 m, clearance 2.71 m, 1 x 200 hp Nanni 4-cylinder diesel, fuel tank approx. 230 litres, top speed 43 km/h, CE category B (outside coastal waters)
The cruise information At the time of our trip, there was no speed limit on the section of the Waal that we travelled and on parts of the Limburgse Maas, Gelderse IJssel and Ketelmeer.
areas of the IJsselmeer and Markermeer as well as on the main shipping routes of the Dutch Wadden Sea. As we were travelling with a glider, we were able to use these routes to make faster progress.
We used about 470 litres of diesel on our tour, and our refuelling stops were: Jachthaven Eldorado/Mookerplas, Jachthaven Flevo Marina/Lelystad, Passantenhaven Willemsoord/Den Helder, Marina Schokkerstrand/ Schokkerhaven, Jachthaven Dorado Beach/Zwarte Schaar.
There are 17 locks on the route described. 12 movable bridges had to be opened for us. We were able to pass the movable bridges on the Zeedoksluis/Den Helder and the Stevinsluis/Den Oever when they were closed due to the tide level.
The annually updated Wateralmanak 2 of the Koninklijke Nederlandse Toeristenbond ANWB (see cruising guide and charts) provides detailed information on passage heights and widths, bridge and lock times, water depths and maximum speeds, mooring and supply options. The obligatory cruising guide for Dutch skippers also contains a tide calendar.
Anyone travelling at sea needs to keep an eye on the weather. The same applies to the IJsselmeer, which is notorious for its sudden and violent weather changes. The coastguard in Den Helder broadcasts a very accurate marine weather report four times a day at 8.05 am, 1.05 pm, 7.05 pm and 11.05 pm local time, issued by the Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute (KNMI). Very important for IJsselmeer skippers is the Centrale Meldpost IJsselmeergebied in Lelystad, which broadcasts a situation report and weather forecast every hour at h + 15 min on VHF channel 1. The coastguard announces nautical warnings and storm warnings on VHF channel 16 and DSC channel 70,
The cruise stages (in km)
Roermond - Mookerplas (85)
Mookerplas - Zutphen (90)
Zutphen -Monnickendam (138)
Monnickendam - Oudkarspel (57)
Oudkarspel - Den Helder (41)
Den Helder -Oudeschild/Texel (6.5 nm)
Oudeschild/Texel - Medemblik (15 nm + 19)
Medemblik - Enkhuizen (18)
Enkhuizen - Urk (26)
Urk - Doesburg (115)
Doesburg - Leukermeer (97)
Leukermeer - Roermond (55)
Total km 741
Total nm 21.5 nm
