The "Randmeren van Flevoland" are eight interconnected lakes ("mere" in Dutch) between the mouth of the IJssel into the Ketelmeer and the Hollandse Brug at the south-eastern end of Flevoland. A ribbon of almost 80 kilometres in length that meanders between old and new land - on the one side the coastline that was spared by the former Zuiderzee and on the other the polder areas of Flevoland that the Dutch reclaimed from the water.
The marginal seas are no longer wild, they have been tamed and now have to duck - before the waves of enthusiasm that the modern leisure society brings them. As the summer draws to a close, many places become quieter. At the beginning of September, we set off on a Noblesse 38 XL, which we had booked with Van Straten Yachts & Charter in Sneek, Friesland, to explore this varied area.
28 May 1932, shortly after 1 p.m.: High up on the North Sea coast, between North Holland and Friesland, the Afsluitdijk is closed. The Zuiderzee, for centuries the gateway to destructive storm surges, is a thing of the past. Now the Dutch can reclaim on a large scale what the sea took from them: land. They dyked large parts of the newly created IJsselmeer and drained the areas. The north-east polder is drained in 1942 and the east Flevoland polder in 1957. Construction work on another polder - South Flevoland - is completed in 1968. The new country becomes a new province on 1 January 1986
a new province - Flevoland.
When pumping the north-east polder empty, however, the Dutch made an observation that rightly worried them: the groundwater on the mainland was sinking - it was leaking from the old, higher land into the polder, an effect that was not to be repeated when the Flevoland polders were created. Here, a connection with the mainland was avoided and instead an area of water was left between the old and new land, the "Randmeren van Flevoland". The Vossemeer, Drontermeer, Veluwemeer, Wolderwijd, Nuldernauw, Nijkerkernauw, Eemmeer and Gooimeer are strung together like pearls on a string and have long been one of the most popular boating areas in the Netherlands.
About six hours after our start in Sneek, we arrive at the coast - more precisely, at the coast of the former Zuiderzee, in Blokzijl. Since the construction of the North-East Polder, the picturesque little town, which was once a flourishing trading centre, has been inland. The old sea lock conjures up images in the mind: the Zuiderzee once broke right here. Worth seeing is the historic harbour, which today
harbour, which now houses comfortable pedestrian areas. With the restaurant "Kaatje bij de Sluis", Blokzijl also has one of the best restaurants in the country. Nearby, I stroke the head of a bronze girl - Kaatje. With my left hand, because it's supposed to bring good luck.
According to legend, Kaatje was born at the end of the 17th century as a result of an amorous misdemeanour. The liberal Blokzijl was largely indifferent to the circumstances that led to Kaatje's birth. In any case, mother and daughter remained highly respected, and Kaatje earned even more money and recognition: she was an excellent cook who knew how to spice up local dishes with the foreign ingredients that the East Indians brought to Blokzijl.
But one day, Kaatje's luck ran out. Her great love for a sailor remained unfulfilled, and she also had to leave life in an unpleasant way - at the hands of a murderer. To this day, it is suspected that she was killed solely for her collection of recipes. Many of her handwritten notes are said to have later been found around the Zuiderzee.
We leave the mainland waterways through the open old sea lock at Blokzijl. The Vollenhoverkanaal, on which we are now travelling, runs roughly where old and new land were joined together. Blok-zijl is barely six kilometres behind us when Vollenhove, another historic Zuiderzee harbour, comes into view ahead on the port side. Today there are a number of moorings here for passers-by. The town lived from fishing and the fact that the bishops of Utrecht used to rest here. At the foot of the mighty church are a number of pubs, including the "Seidel", a highly recommended address.
We continue across the Kadoeler Meer, which connects Vollenhove with the Zwarte Meer. In Schokkerhaven we want to put in our oars and cross the Ketelmeer to get to the "Randmeren van Flevoland". As we sail across the dead straight Ramsdiep, our thoughts wander. There was once vastness here, open sea. Off the starboard beam in front of us was a densely populated island - Schokland. Storm surges attacked the island incessantly, taking land with them and making life on the terps even more miserable than it already was. In 1859, the Dutch king had the island evacuated. When the north-east polder was built, the contours of Schok-land were preserved - an "island on dry land" that has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995.
Schokkerhaven is barely behind us before our boat starts to roll strongly. The flags of the "Captain Tasman" flutter in a wild staccato, spray sprays up - a strong north-westerly wind is sweeping across the Ketelmeer, which inevitably catches us from the side. Unpleasant, but not too bad. The whole thing calms down in the shelter of IJsseloog. The island is an artificial product, a kind of oversized "rubbish chute" for silt. IJsseloog is to be developed into a biotope and recreational area.
At Ketelhaven we turn onto the well buoyed fairway of the Flevoland marginal seas. The Vossemeer, which stretches as far as the Roggebotsluis, opens the series of lakes. We find the water rather unspectacular and hope for a change, which we are promptly offered at the Roggebotsluis. The wait has really heated things up here, with people pushing and shoving. Two Vleten boldly pass all those waiting and enter the lock chamber without hesitation, causing heads to turn red at the stops.
After a good hour, we also pass through the eye of the needle and take a look around: The Drontermeer is much more exciting than the Vossemeer. The many moorings in the greenery are particularly nice. We want to call at Elburg on our way back, as we plan to turn round at the Hollandse Brug and head back to Sneek from there. Because it really is true: the "Randmeren van Flevoland" have enough potential to make a charter week exciting.
The Veluwemeer alone, which stretches between Elburg and Harderwijk, offers a range of activities. There are the large marinas with their sometimes lavish leisure facilities: the Riviera Beach marina opposite Elburg, for example, which has an indoor swimming pool, indoor playground and restaurants. The Walibi World amusement park, which should keep the youngsters on board happy, is within walking distance of Riviera Beach.
The cosy marina "De Klink" is located around 2.5 km further west, and a further three kilometres away, also on polder land, is the Aqua Centrum Bremerbergse Hoek. The latter has two beautiful excursion destinations on its doorstep: the islets of De Ral and Pierland. Attention: Due to Neerstrom, the access
access to Pierland can sometimes become silted up.
Shallow, child-friendly beaches close to the marinas make the Veluwemeer (like the other Randmeer) particularly attractive for families. At Bremerbergse Hoek there is also an approximately 6 kilometre long fast shipping route, the longest of the Randmeer.
Understandably, these many beautiful attributes are very popular, especially from the Rhine-Ruhr region, which is just a two-hour drive away. In other words, the Veluwe can be very busy, especially as its width is deceptive - outside the navigation channel, a large part of the water surface is shallow and not navigable. This constellation - unprotected and a lot of shallow water - combined with a strong south-westerly wind can make for a rough ride. The otherwise gentle Veluwemeer is also quite rough on our outward journey. The foredeck of the "Captain Tasman" gets one shower after another, the windscreen wipers work extra shifts and the skipper starts thinking: "Pretty decent waves for this pond ..."
We pass another modern marina, the Flevostrand marina. However, we are drawn to Harderwijk opposite. The town was once situated on the Zuiderzee and made a good living from fishing. The town also had a university, where a student from Sweden was enrolled in the 1730s who later became famous: Carl von Linné, known for his systematisation of the animal and plant world. The university no longer exists, but Harderwijk now has a dolphinarium and will soon have a chic modern waterfront, including a newly designed inland harbour. We moor on the quay just behind the harbour entrance. Opposite is the entrance to "De Haven van Harderwijk", which in hindsight would have been the nicer place for the boat. The quay where our "Captain Tasman" is moored is part of the fishing harbour, which continues further into the city.
We lie with a view of the "Dolfinarium", and sometimes the squawking and giggling of its inhabitants reaches our ears. Flipper & Co. are consistently marketed in Harderwijk. Souvenir shops do their best to satisfy the demand for plush dolphins - including "met piep" - and the neighbouring restaurants are geared towards fast food. So this is Harderwijk? No, it's not. Because behind the 700-year-old "Vispoort", a completely different world opens up: the picturesque fish market with its historic houses. Here
It is also a stylish place to stop for a bite to eat - for example at "Da Gabriele" or "De Smaeckmaaker".
The next day, we cross the extensive Wolderwijd, which adjoins the Veluwemeer. Tip: The idyllic island of De Biezen in the north-west is worth a detour, as is the island of De Zegge off Zeewolde.
Zeewolde and Almere-Haven are the large, young towns on the southern shore of the South Flevolandpolder. The fact that these two urban centres - like the entire polder area - are located at the bottom of the former Zuiderzee, i.e. below sea level, remains an exciting thought. And even more remarkable is the fact that we, the people of the 20th and 21st centuries, are by no means the first to tread this ground. For long before the Zuiderzee existed, people were already living in the area - members of the Neolithic Swifterbant culture (5000-3400 BC).
In the area around Almere, traces of settlement date back as far as 8800 BC. A legacy that Almere, which seems to be so devoid of history, likes to refer to. First we stop by Zeewolde, the youngest municipality in the Netherlands, which also forms the geographical centre of the country. Zeewolde doesn't make it easy for the observer. The townscape is characterised by modern architecture, which doesn't caress the mind the way the old towns over on the mainland do. The buildings here are challenging, which is fun if you get involved.
One such building, the town hall designed by Wim Quist, welcomes us directly at the "Aanloophaven". The library, designed by Koen van Velzen, is also famous. There are some interesting places to eat, for example the "MiXXers" with café, bar and restaurant, about 1.5 kilometres from the "Aanloophaven". In addition to this guest harbour, Jachthaven Wolder-wijd also offers mooring facilities in two adjacent harbour basins.
Once again, it's amazing how many boats can fit into a Dutch lock: No more tenders fit into the Nijkerkersluis, which connects Nuldernauw and Nijkerkernauw, when the gates close. In the confined space, people get closer, even on a personal level. "You have a beautiful ship," smiles the Dutch skipper next to us. And: "Why don't you go on to Amsterdam?" If you have more time, you really shouldn't turn back at the Hollandse Brug like we did, but instead set course for the neighbouring cruising areas.
Our journey continues along the polder coast. Via Eemmeer we reach the Gooimeer and Almere-Haven. The town is attractive, but here and there it gives the impression of being a little outdated, despite its youth. Almere-Haven is the oldest neighbourhood in Almere and as such exudes the charm of the late seventies. When the first settlers moved in in November 1976, many things were still makeshift; today there are a number of places to eat and shop in Almere-Haven.
A bus takes you to Almere-Stad, about 10 kilometres away - or you can take the waterway (maximum clearance height 2.50 m). Almere is now one of the largest towns in the Netherlands. Every neighbourhood has a different look, and the architecture is often experimental and bold. In contrast, Almere-Haven looks cosy, and it is touching when a shopkeeper advertises with the words "sinds 1981". We moored in the municipal harbour; an alternative is the harbour of WSV Almere-Haven to the south-west. The restaurant-brasserie "Bakboord" offers a beautiful view of the harbour. If you like Japanese food, you should
should pay a visit to the "Sensei Haven" behind the Sluiskade.
Around six kilometres from Almere-Haven, a mighty building marks the south-western end of the Flevoland Randmeere: the Hollandse Brug. We turn round and say goodbye to the new land. Now we want to visit the mainland towns that we only passed on the outward journey - such as Bunschoten-Spakenburg and Elburg.
The waves of the Zuiderzee once broke on the southern shore of the marginal seas, the mainland. The free access to the North Sea characterised the towns and the lives of the people. There is Naarden, the old fortified town, which today has a large marina. It is about 3 km from here to the town centre. Or the former fishing village of Huizen with its many moorings - the old harbour is particularly nice, where the quaint restaurant "De Kalkovens" is located right on the water.
Before we call at Bunschoten-Spakenburg, we stop off on the island of "Dode Hond". The island to the east of the Stichtse Brug offers sheltered moorings and the view extends far across the Eemmeer. This should interest dog lovers: The story goes that a couple of labourers working on the polder construction had a dog with them. One day, the unfortunate animal died suddenly. The "dode hond" was buried on the island, and later, when someone made their way there, it was simply said: "I'm going to the dead dog!"
WHAT SKIPPERS NEED TO KNOW
The companyVan Straten Yachts & Charter is an established name on the Dutch charter market. The Sneek-based company has been hiring out motorboats of the highest standard for many years. The fleet currently comprises eleven very comfortable to luxurious yachts. Bregina and Lars van Straten run the company competently, professionally and with the kind of warmth that creates a feel-good atmosphere right from the start.
Nice idea: each charter crew receives a lavishly stocked breakfast basket as a welcome gift. Car parking spaces are available and general information about the cruising area is provided on board. In addition to the usual briefing, there is also the option of booking comprehensive practical and theoretical sailing instructions for a fee. The centre of Sneek, about 3 km away, is recommended for shopping and eating out.
The boat The "Captain Tasman", a well-maintained Noblesse 38 XL (built in 2004), is designed for four people. There is a cabin fore and aft, each with a free-standing double berth and its own sanitary facilities. The saloon and galley are spacious and furnished with attention to detail. Microwave, radio/CD, DVD, satellite system and colour TV as well as central heating are part of the on-board equipment. Bow and stern thrusters make life easier for the helmsman. His place is on the aft deck. Thanks to a good and tightly closing convertible top, you can sit here comfortably and dry even in wind and weather. Cosy deck chairs are available when the sun comes out again.
Technical data Length 12.20 m, width 3.95 m, draught 1.15 m, clearance 4.60 m, engine 1 x 92 kW (125 hp) John Deere 6-cylinder diesel, drinking water tank approx. 700 l, fuel tank approx. 700 l, consumption approx. 8 l/h. The prices The weekly price (4 persons) for the "Captain Tasman" is between 1268 and 1792 x, depending on the season. The company offers a 5% discount for three weeks or more. The cost of final cleaning (60 x) is added to the charter price. Pillows are part of the inventory; duvets, bed and kitchen linen, hand and bath towels can be hired - for example via a "First Class Package" (195 x/boat), which also includes the final cleaning. The amount of the fuel costs depends on the current diesel price. The deposit is 500 x and will be refunded if the boat is returned damage-free. Deposit insurance costs 60 x (all prices as of 2008).
Information and booking
Van Straten Yachts & Charter, Hendrik Bulthuisweg 13, NL-8600 AE Sneek, Tel. 0031-515-
43 81 58. www.yachtcharter-van straten.nl
The precinctDriving licence Boats up to 15 m in length do not require a driving licence in the Netherlands. A licence is required for motorboats that can travel faster than 20 km/h. Navigation instructions There is a well-marked fairway across the "Randmere van Flevoland" in which a maximum speed of 20 km/h is permitted. Outside the buoyage, you may not exceed 9 km/h. Caution: There are often shallow water areas next to the fairway. There are high-speed stretches on the Veluwemeer, Nijkerkernauw and Gooimeer. There are two locks, the Roggebotsluis between Vossemeer and Drontermeer and the Nijkerkersluis west of Bunschoten-Spakenburg. The clearance heights of the fixed bridges were more than sufficient for our boat.
