We are already stuck on our first stage. It's pouring with rain and the treetops are bending in the wind above us. The only consolation is the thought that we are in a place with a reputation for splendour: Groningen. "Ain Pronkjewail in golden raand is Grönnen", the Groningen song promises us, a jewel of splendour with a golden rim is this Groningen. Peter has given us plenty of time to explore the metropolis and later, as we travel along the old peat canals east of the Zuidlaarder Meer and the picturesque Reitdiep down to Zoutkamp, he adds a handful of sunshine to the mix.
The Van Starkenborghkanaal, which ends at the Oostersluis in Groningen, took us to Groningen. We continued into the city centre via the Eemska-naal. The harbour of the Groningen Motorboat Club is located at the intersection of the canals (just under 2 km from the city centre), and the Jachthaven Oosterhaven is located further into the city centre.
Others had already had the idea of staying there before us: the jetty is packed, and that in the early afternoon. We are sent on to the moorings on the Schuitendiep, a narrow canal just around the corner. As soon as we are moored, the next boats arrive. And they are not the last boats to be stowed here today by the harbour master, a virtuoso in the art of packing and space utilisation.
Groningen is dripping wet, and there is more rain and bad weather to come. "A warning to shipping!", creaked the marine radio this morning in anticipation of a strong north-easterly wind. We're just under 30 kilometres from the coast as the crow flies, so we're in for a good breeze. And so we settle in in Groningen for the time being.
The youngest urban population in the Netherlands keeps the time-honoured city fit. In addition, around 50,000 students keep the 190,000-inhabitant capital on its toes. Above it all stands "d'Olle Grieze", the old grey one, Groningen's 97 m high Martini Tower, which is a good hundred years older than the glorious university of 1614. The Hanseatic League left its mark on the city and, of course, the "Golden Age".
Something also remained of the "Bommenberend", the Bomben-Bernhard, essentially the good feeling of having chased him away. The thing was: in 1672, the Prince-Bishop of Münster, Bernhard von Galen, had his eye on Groningen. The citizens took the precaution of flooding parts of the surrounding area, which kept the churchman at a distance. He now sent cannonball after cannonball, which only earned him the nickname "Bommenberend". The town still celebrates the day on which the high lord left again to this day.
They are also subtle, the people of Groningen. The urinal they erected on the Kleine der A street is a work of art, a synthesis of edification and relief, so to speak. The Groninger Museum (www.groningermu seum.nl) also turned out to be an extraordinary building. Only Amsterdam is said to offer more cultural experiences in the Netherlands than Groningen.
Groningen is also a great place to eat and shop. Our first stop is at "t Pannekoekschip" on the Schuitendiep. In the belly of the historic two-master, built in 1908, around a hundred different types of pancake are served. The clipper also has an 84-year-old "treasure" on board: one of the first Deutz VM diesels.
After two days in Groningen, we say goodbye to the Schuitendiep. Via Eemskanaal we now head for the Winschoterdiep, an artificial waterway that connects Groningen with Winschoten. The Drentsche Diep, which leads to the Zuidlaardermeer, departs at canal kilometre 6. This is where we want to go.
The Drentsche Diep meanders leisurely through a vast cultivated landscape. Reeds sway in the wind on the banks, pastures and hay meadows lie along the way. The fact that we are travelling through a glacial valley remains hidden from view. Glacial meltwater formed the valley that became the bed of the Hunze. From today's Gasselte in the province of Drenthe, it flows northwards.
Part of its drainage system is the Zuidlaardermeer, a natural inland lake through which the Hunze flows from south to north. Between the northern edge of the lake and Winschoterdiep, the river bears the name "Drentsche Diep". In earlier times, the Hunze connected further to the current Reitdiep and flowed into the North Sea.
The old Hunze valley was inhospitable, swampy and forbidding. Then people created polders and utilised the drained land. The Drentsche Diep, which is around 7 kilometres long, has also long since been regulated and pacified. We travel uphill, but do not notice any current. Only the slightly meandering course of the
of the water reminds us that we are travelling on a river.
The "Meerwijck" camping site comes into view on the port side. The site includes a marina (berths up to a maximum of 7 metres), a restaurant and a supermarket. Then the water opens up: we have reached the mouth of the Drentsche Diep into the Zuidlaardermeer. There are mooring facilities right on the north-eastern shore of the lake, including the well-equipped Allround Watersport Meerwijck marina.
We stay in the buoyed main fairway, which runs in a north-south direction and has a comfortable depth of around 2 metres. It immediately becomes shallower on both sides. After all, the approaches to the lake's marinas do not usually pose any draught problems for motorboaters. The situation is sometimes different around the marinas. For example, there is only 0.50-0.80 metres of water at the simple stopping points on the western shore of the lake. With our draught of just under 0.80 m, we don't dare go there. A look at the chart is therefore essential on the Zuidlaardermeer - even if we would have liked more precise information and greater compatibility with the Almanak 2 here and there. If necessary, a call to the harbour master will clarify the accessibility of a harbour (see below for depths and clearance heights on this trip).
In the south of the Zuidlaardermeer, already in the province of Drenthe, more harbours await us. We moor in Jachthaven Meerzicht and come across a beautifully situated facility that is in need of renovation. We are informed that it is about to be renovated. A cosy pub, the Paviljoen Meerzicht, is located right next to the harbour. The southern outlet of the Hunze into the Zuidlaardermeer is very close by.
The river is called the "Oostermoerse Vaart" and is navigable for motorboats as far as De Groeve. The Zuidlaardervaart branches off from the Oostermoerse Vaart and ends in Zuidlaren. According to Wateralmanak 2, the passers-by harbour there is designed for boats with a draught of up to 0.80 m. It is also around 3 kilometres from Jachthaven Meerzicht over land to Zuidlaren. The small town with its green streets is very pleasant, and the fact that there are a number of shops and restaurants is also pleasing. Tip: a visit to the mill museum "De Wachter" (www.dewachter.nl).
The next day, we say goodbye to the Zuidlaardermeer and thread our way into the Leinewijk on its eastern shore. Ahead of us lies a stretch that has only been open to pleasure craft since 2008/2009 under the motto "Van Turfvaart naar Toervaart!
To the east of Groningen and far to the east and south once stretched a seemingly endless area of high moorland, the remains of which - the Bourtanger Moor - still exist today. For centuries, the area was feared, an eerie place that people avoided. The upheaval came in the 17th century, when the Netherlands began the boom that went down in history as the "Golden Age". The increasing demand for peat, a much sought-after fuel at the time, provided the impetus for peatland colonisation.
Initially, ditches were created for drainage purposes. The ditches were connected to larger waterways to ensure that the peat could be transported away. The peat cutters built their huts along the ditches. This settlement structure is still recognisable in the region today. The network of waterways has also been preserved, and what's more, many of the old peat routes have been restored and given a new purpose: recreational boating.
The "Van Turfvaart naar Toervaart!" initiative closed an important gap in the network when it opened up the route from Zuidlaardermeer to Bareveld. The measure, which was fully realised three years ago, comprises three sections: the route from the Zuidlaardermeer via Leinewijk, Kieldiep and Grevelingskanaal to Bareveld, and the waterways from Kiel-Windeweer to Hoogezand and from Kiel-Windeweer via the newly built Westerdiepsterdallenkanaal to the Langebosschemeer, which connects to the Oosterdiep in Veendam.
We decide in favour of the section to Bareveld, a route that is dotted with countless movable bridges and two locks. They are operated by mobile helpers and are cleared in convoy (for bridge and lock times on this trip, see "Cruising literature" and "Practical links").
At the Leinewijk waiting area, we press the signalling button. "Bridge keeper coming!" someone announces. 15 minutes
15 minutes later, two handsome men on scooters drive up, and after a further quarter of an hour we are on the track. What happens next is probably called "having a run". Because our companions do their job with an ease and dedication that is marvellous - we would have had big cheeks after the first dozen crank bridges.
The size of our convoy is manageable: we are the convoy. All the rest stops along the route are deserted, which may be due to the changeable weather. In any case, this route does not deserve to be a Cinderella. All the canal structures are in top condition, and the fact that there is so much countryside here is something the region shares with other areas. The canals are dead straight and the countryside is dignified, with a quiet friendliness enveloping every hamlet. We shift down a gear, so to speak, and enjoy the journey. It takes about three hours to Bareveld, provided you don't make any stops.
Soon after our start, the Leinewijk meets the Kieldiep. Heading north, it takes us to the Drevenbos passing place in Hoogezand. We follow the waterway southwards and cross Kiel-Windeweer, which really only stretches along the banks of the canal - typical of places whose beginnings date back to the time of peatland colonisation. From the Zuidlaarderweg mooring, it is just a few minutes' walk to the former village church, which now houses a restaurant (information and reservations: www.de-amshoff.nl).
While the Kieldiep continues to the Westerdiepsterdallenkanaal, we find ourselves on the Grevelingskanaal after a sharp right-left bend. The former moorland villages of Annerveenschekanaal and Eexterveenschekanaal, both with reasonable stopping points, are now joined by Bareveld. We briefly change to the Oosterdiep and then bring out the mooring lines. The mooring facilities, like all the previous ones on this leg of the journey, are simple but neat. There is a pub nearby, the "Huize Bareveld".
Bareveld functions as a canal junction. If we hadn't been heading for Veendam, we would have reached the Winschoterdiep via the Stadskanaal, Pekeler Hoofddiep and Pekel Aa. The Stadskanaal also takes us via Musselkanaal and Ter Apel-kanaal to the German Haren-Rütenbrock Canal.
Veendam, which we pass through the next morning in an escorted convoy, also has its origins in peatland colonisation. Over the centuries, the village developed into a regional economic centre and today boasts a comprehensive infrastructure. The Molenstreek marina on the Oosterdiep, for example, offers moorings. The Veenkoloniaal Museum (www.veenkoloniaal museum.nl) tells the story of the peat mining era.
The 30 movable bridges and three locks on the 7 kilometre stretch of canal from Bareveld to the Geert Veenhuizerbrug are operated for us without delay. Veendam is left behind and with it a certain idyll. The A.G. Wildervanckkanaal welcomes us with practicality, as does the Winschoterdiep, which we take back to Groningen. We are all the more surprised at how pleasant it is in the pedestrian harbour of Zuidbroek.
The town has the most important amenities and a regional train runs regularly to Groningen. Journey time: 24 minutes. Zuidbroek's medieval lifeline was an overland trade route, later the Winschoterdiep brought prosperity to the town. A first section was dug at the beginning of the 17th century from Zuidbroek to Foxhol, south-east of Groningen.
The canal was then extended towards Winschoten and Groningen. Its western end point was originally in Groningen's Oosterhaven harbour. Today, the Winschoterdiep flows into Eemskanaal and Van Starkenborghkanaal. The latter would take us quite unpretentiously to the Reitdiep. We choose the more romantic route to the Reitdiep - right through the centre of Groningen.
We first take the Verbindingskanaal to the Zuiderhaven, a completely smooth affair as none of the movable bridges need to be operated for us (clearance height closed max.
3 m). Halfway along the route, we come across a breathtaking architectural masterpiece: the Groninger Museum. We take out the mooring lines briefly in the Zuiderhaven. The next bridges have to be opened for us, and the service is just about to take its one-hour lunch break.
Soon the first boats form up to cross the bridge together; we set off and join the queue. The next time we visit Groningen, the passer-by seats here on the quay will be our first choice. Like the Jachthaven Oosterhaven, the Zuiderhaven is ideally located in relation to the city centre, but has a more open feel. The fact that the Zuiderhaven's facilities are limited to essentials such as water, electricity and waste disposal is acceptable.
The Museumsbrug leaves at 1 pm sharp. The last section of our journey through the city begins. A bizarre glass construction comes into view on the starboard side, the art urinal. A few metres further on, we catch a glimpse of the Noordelijk Scheepvaartmuseum, which is housed in two 15th century buildings on Brugstraat (www.noordelijk scheepvaartmuseum.nl).
Then we are already at the Noorderhaven. Old warehouses rise up on the quay and in our imagination we can see the colourful hustle and bustle of a historic harbour in front of us, we think we can hear the haggling of the merchants and the shouts of those loading a sailing ship.
The Noorderhaven harbour and the Reitdiep, which begins here and once led to the open sea, were tide-dependent for generations. It was not until a lock was built near Zoutkamp in 1876/77 that the North Sea was kept out. Since 1969, the Afsluitdijk at Lauwersmeer has provided protection from the rough seas.
Apart from a 25-minute delay in front of the Groningen railway bridge (waiting area available), we pass through the town without a hitch. The Reitdiep takes us further and we soon pass the modern Jachthaven Reitdiep, which is about 5 kilometres from Groningen city centre - but there is a bus connection, among other things. Just under two hours after our start in the Zuiderhaven, we arrive at the Dorkwerdersluis.
After passing through the lock and crossing the Van Starkenborghkanaal, we continue our tour via the Reitdiep. After about 1.5 kilometres, at Wierumerschouw, the watercourse begins to meander gently again: The Reitdiep is now effectively the Hunze, our friend from the Zuidlaardermeer. We cycle through a wide river landscape, coots squawk and the scent of camomile fills the air. We recognise dykes that have become redundant and have shrunk into a chain of green mounds. We don't feel a current, which according to the sailing literature is to be expected on the Reitdiep under certain circumstances.
The mooring options range from a simple stopping point in the countryside to a well-equipped passer-by berth. Garnwerd, for example, which is overlooked by a windmill and scores points for its waterside restaurant "Café Hammingh", is well catered for. The tranquil jetty in Schouwerzijl would also have been a wonderful end to this day's cruising, but we decide to move on.
We have travelled about 35 km since Groningen when the sea air fills our noses. Zoutkamp comes into view, almost on the Lauwersmeer. The former fishing village is the end point of the Reitdiep and the final stop on this journey. We are about to call at the pedestrian harbour and later stop off at a much-praised restaurant, the "ZK86". Tomorrow it's "tot ziens" Groningen, "welkom" Lauwersmeer and Friesland. More on this soon in BOOTE.
WHAT SKIPPERS NEED TO KNOW
Boat We were travelling with a Jeanneau Merry Fisher 805. Boat data: Length 8.25 m, width 2.94 m, draught 0.74 m, clearance height 2.71 m, 200 hp Nanni diesel.
Driving licence No boat licence is required on the route described, provided the boat is shorter than 15 m and not faster than 20 km/h.
Water data There were six locks and 100 movable bridges (BB) on our route. The service is free of charge for boaters. For service times, see cruise literature and practical links.
- Eemskanaal: (Groningen city area): 4.50 m water depth, BB, max. 6 km/h.
- Winschoterdiep: 3.50 m water depth, BB, max. 11 km/h.
- Drentsche Diep: 2.10 m water depth, lowest clearance height of fixed bridges 3 m, max. 6 km/h.
- Zuidlaardermeer: max. 2 m water depth in the main fairway, for details see cruise literature, max. 6 km/h.
- Oostermoerse Vaart, Zuidlaardervaart: max. water depth 1.50 m, see cruising literature for details, minimum clearance height of fixed bridges 3.50 m, max. 6 km/h.
- Leinewijk, Kieldiep, Grevelingskanaal, Oosterdiep: max. 1.20 m authorised draught, lowest clearance height of fixed bridges 6 m, max. 6 km/h.
- A.G. Wildervanckkanaal: 3 m water depth, BB, max. 11 km/h.
- City passage Groningen, Reitdiep: 2.40 m water depth (fluctuations of up to 0.50 m possible), BB, max. 6 km/h (Roode-haan - Zoutkamp 9 km/h).
Mooring All harbours and mooring options along our route are listed in the annually updated Wateralmanak 2, the classic cruising guide for Dutch skippers, which also indicates equipment and prices. Fuelling facilities are also listed.
Practical links
- www.varen.groningen.nl
- www.toerisme.groningen.nl
- www.provinciegroningen.nl
- www.infocentrum-binnenwa teren.nl
Cruise literature
- Manfred Fenzl: Friesland - Between the Ems and the IJsselmeer. With route through the Veen, Edition Maritim, Hamburg, ISBN 978-3-89225-656-4.
- Jan Werner: Holland 2 - The IJsselmeer and the northern provinces, Delius Klasing Verlag, Bielefeld, ISBN 978-3-7688-1180-4.
- ANWB (ed.): Wateralmanak 1 - Regelgeving en tips, ANWB, The Hague.
- ANWB (ed.): Wateralmanak 2 - Vaargegegevens, ANWB, The Hague.
- ANWB (ed.): Wateratlas A - Groningen & Drenthe met Eems-Dollardgebied.
Cruise stages
- Groningen-Zuidlaardermeer 18 km
- Zuidlaardermeer-Bareveld 19 km
- Bareveld-Zuidbroek 16 km
- Zuidbroek-Zoutkamp 57 km
Total 110 km
