Swedes, Germans and Dutch people can be seen on the jetties, as well as English and Polish people. Lots of sailors, with motor yachts in between. An aluminium ketch from Poland had the longest journey. It's almost like the Baltic Sea. But only almost. Because the splendour of the bougainvillea and hibiscus flowers around the harbour wouldn't stand a chance in northern climes. The deep blue of the sea doesn't fit either. And then there's the temperature: 22 degrees in December - something you can only dream of in Travemünde.
Climate: Twelve months of summer a year
Despite the familiar home harbours on the transom: Germany is 2000 nautical miles away. This is not Port Olpenitz, but Puerto de Mogán, in the very south of Gran Canaria. The fact that so surprisingly many boats from northern Europe have found their way here - the smaller ones probably more as deck cargo or on trailers - is of course due to the climate: twelve months of summer, unbeatable. And when it comes to dream destinations, the Canary Islands are still a realistic destination. In any case, skippers with wanderlust are well catered for there, and not just from a nautical point of view. Our area portrait shows the many different faces of Gran Canaria.
The largest and most populous of the Canary Islands in terms of area is Tenerife, the longest is Fuerteventura. Gran Canaria is at the forefront when it comes to climate: there are around forty different zones, from the exposed high altitudes to the lowlands. barrancosThe island is a continent in miniature with rich native flora and fauna, from the Osorio shrew to the Canary Island pine, which even survives fires.
Las Palmas and the green north
The north is the green side of Gran Canaria. It faces the trade wind, which usually blows constantly from the north-east and brings with it pleasant temperatures and humidity. The laurel forests at higher altitudes, often shrouded in mist, are evidence of this. According to studies, the capital Las Palmas, which lies in the north-east, has the best climate in the world. 380,000 people live here - almost twice as many as in the second largest city in the Canary Islands, Santa Cruz on Tenerife.
As far as sea transport is concerned, Las Palmas is the first port of call in the archipelago. From here, there are not only weekly ferries to the Spanish mainland, but also to the neighbouring islands. Around one million cruise passengers also arrive here every year. The airport is connected via the GC-1 coastal motorway and can be reached in just under half an hour. In terms of flair, Europe and Central America meet in Las Palmas, a modern city and a winding old town.
One example of the modern city is the seawater aquarium Poema del Mar, which opened in 2017 near the fishing harbour. It is the largest in Europe. The historic Las Palmas can be found in the shady alleyways of the Vegueta, the oldest neighbourhood: the Plaza de Santa Ana, flanked by palm trees. The cathedral of the same name, whose construction began in 1497, rises at its front. With the popular Playa de las Canteras, the city also has its own local beach.
The largest marina in the Canary Islands
The Marina Las Palmas in the south of Puerto de la Luz is also the largest in the Canary Islands: With more than 1300 berths (even fifty-metre yachts can be accommodated here) and a range of services for every conceivable service, it is not surprising that it also plays an important role in stage plans for Atlantic crossings on the barefoot route. marina.palmasport.es
This also applies to the harbour in general: Las Palmas, for example, is the traditional starting point for the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC), whose field of cruising yachts, racing yachts and multihulls gathers here every year before heading over to St. Lucia with the north-east trade winds, where most of the yachts arrive in mid-December. This year, the start takes place in Las Palmas on 23 November.
However, the last "celebrity guest" in the harbour had a different destination: shortly after the start of the Vendée Globe last November, Hungarian participant Szabolcs Weöres had to visit Las Palmas to repair storm damage to the rig of his Imoca "New Europe". He was able to carry out the work on a mooring buoy in front of the marina, as prescribed, without assistance before he was able to continue the race around the world.
Volcanic past
Gran Canaria's volcanic past is visible everywhere on the island, from the rugged coastline to the 1956 metre high Morro de la Agujereada. Roque Nublo is one of the island's landmarks: the 65 metre high basalt rock is the vent of a former volcano. While the softer rock of the cone was eroded by wind and weather, the "foggy rock" remained standing.
But the solidified forms are deceptive: It is still bubbling under the crust. The monumental cliffs in the north-west in particular show just how powerful the forces lurking there are capable of being. In the Tamadaba Nature Park, it stretches from Agaete to Mirador del Balcón. The traces of Gran Canaria's indigenous inhabitants, on the other hand, have almost disappeared. However, the La Fortaleza archaeological interpretation centre provides an exciting insight into the lives of these people.
The dry south of Gran Canaria
The south of Gran Canaria, El Sur, is virtually unaffected by the rainfall in the north. The mountainous interior keeps the moisture out like a wall. This makes the landscape all the drier. The calima exacerbates the situation. Although the desert wind only blows from the east, straight out of the Sahara, in special weather conditions, it not only brings temperatures of up to 50 degrees Celsius, but also covers the sky behind a pale veil of dust.
In terms of tourism, however, the sheltered location has proven to be a decisive advantage. The best proof of this are the hotel complexes along the sandy beaches of Bahía Feliz, San Agustín and Playa del Inglés. But it can also be much quieter - and no less inviting: to the west of the famous dunes and the striking Maspalomas lighthouse, the coast becomes rougher, but in the deeply incised valleys of the barrancos and cañadas there are other places that leave nothing to be desired, especially for visitors on their own keel.
Puerto Rico and Pasito Blanco
Where fishermen used to keep to themselves and pull their boats directly onto the beach in open bays, yachts from all over the world are now moored on fixed jetties behind secure stone piers. With around 530 berths in two basins, Puerto Rico offers the largest of five marinas in this stretch of coast, which is just twenty kilometres long. Guests are accommodated in the Puerto Base in the eastern part of the harbour. The service on the jetty and ashore is comprehensive. The same applies to supplies on land: there is a supermarket at the harbour and the modern Mogan Mall shopping centre is just a ten-minute walk away. Puerto Rico is also the starting point for ferry trips and excursions along the coast, water sports activities and dolphin and whale safaris.
In contrast, Pasito Blanco, the first harbour west of Maspalomas, has a sophisticated club atmosphere. Full service is also offered here, from electricity at the jetty to the boat filling station and the 70-tonne travel lift. There are 388 berths available. Deep-sea fishing is also very popular. Depending on the season, you can compete with bonito, barracuda, blue fin and even blue marlin.
Puerto de Mogán: Tenerife at a glance
Puerto de Mogán is the last town before the coast turns northwards, rises further and merges into the wild west of Gran Canaria. You will look in vain for towering hotels here, the charm of a fishing village has been preserved, even if holidaymakers also make out the more lucrative catch here. At first glance, you would never guess that the neighbourhood right by the harbour with its rectangular alleyways and flower-bedecked façades dates back to the 1980s.
However, this style is correct because the buildings have been adapted to the old neighbourhood that stretches up the slope of the barranco next door. At the harbour, the first row belongs to the bars and restaurants, such as the Casito Mediterraneo. In Puerto de Mogán there are 246 berths spread over the three floating jetties, the harbour wall and the inside of the piers.
However, the most beautiful spot is outside: passing the fishing harbour and stony beach, you come to the foot of the cliffs. A narrow, well-trodden path leads closely along the cliff to a natural terrace. There is a lot going on here, especially at sunset, with bottles of wine clinking to Caribbean beats. The silhouette of Pico del Teide on Tenerife rises darkly out of the ocean. You briefly catch a glimpse of the neighbouring island before turning your attention back to the sunset. But your thoughts continue. Past the low sun, they reach into the distance beyond the horizon, across the Atlantic - to new shores.
Gran Canaria: Nautical information
The Canary Islands are located at a position of 28°30' N, 15°52' W in the eastern central Atlantic off the African coast. The shortest distance to the mainland is 100 kilometres (Fuerteventura), the longest around 420 kilometres (La Palma). The nearest Spanish mainland port of Cádiz, to which there are also ferry connections, including to Las Palmas on Gran Canaria, is around 1000 kilometres (540 nautical miles) to the north-east.
The Canary Islands, which belong to Spain, comprise eleven islands, eight of which are inhabited. The largest and most populous is Tenerife, while the largest city is Las Palmas, which also has the most important harbour. The seabed around the islands drops steeply to a depth of several thousand metres. Two traffic separation zones have been designated between Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Fuerteventura. The Spanish Maritime Search and Rescue Service (Salvamento Marítimo) is responsible for the SAR area, while the Coastguard (Servicio Marítimo de la Guardia Civil) is responsible for public order tasks.
