Sigi is sceptical. "Just the two of you on a ship? All alone?" Yes, that's exactly what we had in mind. We want to spend a week cruising the Great Masurian Lakes in north-east Poland on a charter boat from Kuhnle Tours. Sigi, who has now collected other travellers at Warsaw's Chopin Airport, quickly pushes his charges to the door, where the bus and driver are waiting.
The "Masuria shuttle" is to take us to Piaski, around 200 kilometres away, where the Kuhnle base is located. We think there's going to be quite a crowd at the briefing, as full as the bus already is. The situation soon clears up: Piaski also has a cycling resort, and the "Classic Lady" is also located there. Sigi and his group want to go on the cruise ship, we want to go on a Kormoran 940. Sigi grins: "Well then ..."
Around four and a half hours later, the "Masuria Shuttle" turns into a groaning forest track. It rumbles downhill. All of a sudden the greenery thins out. "Oh ...", sighs everyone on the bus, including us. A wide expanse of water stretches out in front of us, the Jezioro Bełdany. The evening sun makes the horizon glow: Violet, purple, vermilion. Crane calls waft in, waves smack softly around the jetty where our "Schmerle" is moored. Masuria. We have arrived.
Masuria, land of lakes. There are said to be around 3000 of them. They share their history of development with the origins of other lake regions along the southern Baltic Sea. Like Holstein Switzerland and the Mecklenburg Lake District, the Masurian lakes were formed in the wake of the last ice ages. Glaciers left depressions and furrows that filled with water. Shallow lakes formed and narrow channelled lakes of considerable depth.
The Jezioro Bełdany ("Jezioro" meaning "lake") is one such channelled lake. With a length of around 12 km, it is just 1.5 km wide. At its deepest point, however, it measures 46 metres. From Piaski on the eastern shore of Jezioro Bełdany, we could head south and visit Ruciane-Nida, a detour that we decided not to take: soon after Ruciane-Nida, motorboats are prohibited from travelling further. With six days of sailing and a wealth of other options, the only solution for us is to head north.
We cast off the next morning. Our destination for the day is Mikołajki, where we pass the Galindia jetty on the port side, a hotel and leisure complex that showcases the Pruzzian heritage of Masuria. The simple jetty is occupied, as it will be on our return. The Jezioro Śniardwy, Poland's largest lake, then branches off to starboard. One of the worthwhile addresses on its shore is Popielno, which is practically "around the corner". The harbour is considered atmospheric, not least because of the wild horses that graze nearby. The almost Müritz-sized Jezioro Śniardwy was rightly nicknamed the "Masurian Sea": the waters can be just as unpredictable as the open sea.
As the Jezioro Śniardwy is barely 6 metres deep on average, an unpleasant swell quickly builds up in windy conditions. In addition, stones and sandbanks, sometimes close to the fairway, make rowing challenging. Sudden changes in the weather are another characteristic of the Jezioro Śniardwy, and we will see in time that it shares this mood with other lakes here. But for now, the sun is shining. Mikołajki comes into view, the tourist centre in the southern section of the chain of lakes.
We easily reach the city quay, which is a nice place to be even without any catering facilities. If you need service, you can get it at the Eko Marina right next door, for example. On this Sunday afternoon, the waterfront promenade in Mikołajki is packed with day trippers. There is popcorn, soft ice cream and 50cm pizzas, while Abbas croaks "Money, Money, Money" from a loudspeaker. Flying traders and innkeepers are in full swing, a little train makes its way cheerfully ringing its bell.
We discover a supermarket in the village, find everything we need and then arrive at the meat counter: a paradise of home-made sausages! A piece of that one please, I say in English, then in German. The shop assistant smiles and replies with a torrent of Polish vocabulary. When I use my thumb and index finger to indicate the approximate thickness of the slice I have in mind, her eyes light up. In no time at all, she has weighed out two complete sausages and put them in my basket. Okay, next time we'll have a few basic terms ready in the local language - why else does our cruising guide have the corresponding appendix?
The menu at "Oaza" on the promenade is also available in German, and we opt for pork loin in chanterelle sauce. The mushrooms drift in the cream, although there are plenty of them in the surrounding forests. But it was delicious and pleasingly cheap. The main course with a side dish and soup beforehand cost around 7 euros. When we got back on the "Schmerle", the first thing we did was get red ears - we had locked the cabin door but forgotten about the large window above the galley. It is wide open and inviting. So we didn't have any uninvited guests - so much for security.
The next morning is fabulous. Soon after casting off, we pass a plastic fish with a crown that someone has tied up in the water by the town bridge in Mikołajki. It is the legendary "Stinthengst". As the king of fish, he couldn't deal with fishermen for understandable reasons. He knocked over their boats and didn't behave well in other ways either. With the help of dark forces, the troublemaker was eventually captured. This is how the story is told in some places: The "Stintengst" promised to fulfil every wish as long as no one got on his fins.
The inhabitants of Mikołajki agreed, but far-sighted as they were, they did not let the mythical creature swim away afterwards. The "Stinthengst" was put on a leash so that it could take care of people's dreams and hopes for all eternity. And he seems to do this reliably, as cheerful as Mikołajki appears. We gently pass the "Stinthengst". It would be a shame if he were to break away now.
We are soon rowing on the next stretch of water, the Jezioro Tałty. One of the most charming sections of this tour awaits us: the connection of the Jezioro Tałty with the Jezioro Niegocin. Four lock-free canals and a series of smaller lakes make up this section of the trip. The canal system, which was created in the 18th century, is in top condition and is comprehensively marked.
The Kanał Tałski (1.6 km) is the start. We cycle through a mixed forest that smells more fragrant than we have ever experienced before. Terns rattle above the Jezioro Tałtowisko, and from time to time delicate butterflies stray into the boat, which we gently push back to freedom. The idyllic harbour of Zielony Gaj between Kanał Grunwaldzki (500 m) and Kanał Mioduński (1.9 km) is full to the brim. Nobody is to be seen. A deep calm lies over everything.
A sailing yacht overtakes us with a thick bow wave and an excursion boat approaches from afar. It's just before 11 a.m. and the region has finally rubbed the sleep out of its eyes. From the Kanał Szymoński (2.4 km), we cross over to the Jezioro Jagodne, which merges into the Jezioro Boczne. But what is this? The sun has gone and the light has become diffuse. As it's lunchtime and we're at a jetty, we decide to moor up.
As the mooring lines hold our boat securely, there is a rumble in the distance. The sky turns black literally in the blink of an eye. Gusts sweep in, then the first drops splatter onto the deck. The magic is soon over, but we are impressed by Rasmus' speedy performance. And with the strong breeze he left behind, we don't want to sail across the expansive Jezioro Niegocin. So we stay here in Rydzewo.
Sparrows chirp as we walk down the street. Huddled houses are lined up next to each other, with a sign on one of them. "Zimmer frei" is written on it in German. We see a church that is over four hundred years old, shops and pubs. Rydzewo seems to be what you would imagine a Masurian village to be like - quiet and far away from the world. But that is only one side of this small village on Jezioro Boczne and Jezioro Niegocin. Rydzewo has long since become an attractive holiday destination. Work is being carried out and modernised all around.
Everything also looks new at "Port Messa", where we spend the night: Jetty (about 12 places), sanitary facilities, sunbathing area. Rydzewo is known far beyond its borders for the "Gospoda pod Czarnym Łabędziem" ("Black Swan Inn"). Regional specialities are served in an old Masurian ambience. All dishes are based on original recipes and the ingredients are organic. It tastes marvellous, and once again our on-board funds are spared. Tip: There is a marina next to the restaurant (about 40 seats).
The next day, we cross the Jezioro Niegocin. The third largest body of water in the district is connected to the following lakes via the 2.13 km long Kanał Łuczański. The canal route leads through the tourist centre of the northern lake district, Giżycko. We will stop there on the return journey. Now we are supposed to continue, but we don't. We still have an hour until the next opening of the swing bridge that spans the Kanał Łuczański in Giżycko. It is the only "obstacle" on our route. The 19th century construction is operated by hand several times a day. Until then, it's easy to moor up on the shore.
On the Jezioro Kisajno, a fairway leads from Giżycko to the entrance to Węgorzewo on the northern bank of the Jezioro Mamry. But we don't want to go that far. Our destination is Sztynort. At the Królewski Róg peninsula, we leave the buoy line in a north-westerly direction. The densely wooded shore at Sztynort is already in sight - dark, uniform, seemingly inaccessible. Only after a while do we recognise the approach to Sztynort harbour with its diamond and buoy.
We reach the Jezioro Sztynorckie and the Sztynort marina via a 170 metre long passage, where our "Schmerle" is perfectly accommodated. The modern marina has around 500 berths. Once again we come across a "sklep", a small, usually well-stocked grocery shop. There is also a beer garden-style pizzeria and a restaurant up by the castle.
It is only a few steps away from the lake and marina: Steinort Castle, one of the large estates for which the former East Prussia was famous. The manor house, farm buildings and park are in a desolate state. Safeguarding measures have saved the ensemble from complete decay for the time being.
Steinort Castle is to be restored as soon as possible and then made available to the public for a variety of purposes. It is not only the cultural significance of the complex that justifies this feat of strength. Steinort Castle also symbolises the responsibility and courage of the individual to rise up against dictatorship, terror and genocide.
In 1939, at the beginning of the war, Heinrich Graf von Lehndorff is the lord of the manor at Steinort Castle. In 1940, the National Socialists began building a "Führer headquarters", the "Wolf's Lair", near his estate. From 1941, high-ranking Nazi henchmen came and went here. One of them, Reich Foreign Minister Joachim von Ribbentrop, likes it more feudal. He stays at Steinort Castle. At this time, Heinrich Graf von Lehndorff was already a member of the resistance.
Despite the Nazi greatness under his roof, he secretly carries on. On 20 July 1944, the conspirators plan an assassination attempt on Hitler. But the attack in the "Wolf's Lair" fails. The resisters are hunted down and arrested. "A complete transformation takes place, whereby the previous life gradually sinks completely and completely new standards apply," wrote Heinrich Graf von Lehndorff in a farewell letter to his wife on 3 September 1944.
The following day, he was executed in Berlin-Plötzensee. Von Lehndorff's words are inscribed on a memorial stone on the driveway to the castle. There we can also make out the remains of a flowerbed, which must once have been lushly planted. Two rose bushes have taken root here and, although still scrawny and delicate, have blossomed - splashes of colour with symbolic character.
The marina smells of pizza ovens and campfires. We see young people everywhere, the atmosphere is relaxed. Everyone here is enjoying the Masurian summer. We hear the humming and whirring of outboard motors as the sailors manoeuvre their charter yachts skilfully into the smallest of gaps. And boats keep coming into the harbour. We are convinced that the count up in the castle would have liked this light-heartedness. We will remember Masuria as we experienced it in Sztynort and elsewhere: young and lively, aware of the past but looking ahead, focussed on the future.
On our way back to Piaski, we now set our sights on Giżycko, which has several marinas. We are curious about the Ekomarina on Jezioro Niegocin, which was built in 2010. The smart marina has around 140 berths and offers all the usual comforts, including a restaurant. We discover other eateries nearby and in the town centre just a few hundred metres away. There are also shopping facilities there. Practical: various bus routes depart from the railway station to the surrounding area.
Giżycko, which is currently celebrating its 400th anniversary, welcomes us in a friendly and smart manner. We prefer to escape the organised hustle and bustle along the promenade onto the boat. And a visitor arrives - our old mate Rasmus. It's easy to see that the wind god will be pulling out all the stops this time: Storm warning lights are flashing all around the Jezioro Niegocin and the water rescue team is getting ready. The storm rolls in from the south-west and hits the harbour, held back only by a breakwater.
The jetty keeps the swell out, but our mooring lines are still creaking under the pressure of the gusts. The heavy rain has reduced visibility to almost zero. It is not until two hours later that the first skippers venture back onto the water. There's no doubt about it: in tricky weather, the Great Masurian Lakes, like comparable bodies of water, can be extremely inhospitable and daunting.
The next day we have another visitor. This time it's a young man. As soon as we dock in Ryn, he rushes over from the road and politely shakes our hands. "I'm Hermann. Father from Hanover, mother from Poland. Do you understand?" We are moved by his spontaneity and warmth. "How high is the unemployment rate here?" our new friend enquires and casually adds: "Is Poland expensive?" Before the harbour master can compliment him back ashore, he gets to the point: "10 euros, you understand?" So that's how it goes.
We don't take Hermann's desire for personal attention amiss. The Warmińsko-Mazurskie voivodeship is the Polish region with the highest unemployment rate, and we realise this for the first time in Ryn. The crusader castle from the 14th century, which has been refurbished with a four-star hotel and fine dining, towers above many an expressionless house façade and looks down on people like Hermann. And yet: Ryn is keeping up.
The small town at the north-eastern end of the Jezioro Ryńskie has a new riverside path and the mooring facilities here are currently being expanded. At the Stanica Żeglarska Stock jetty (Port Ryn, about 18 berths), we are already moored neatly and close to the town centre. Now a quick trip to the supermarket and then somewhere nice to stop for a bite to eat. Below the castle, we notice the "Ryński Młyn", a rustic inn that operates in the reconstructed castle mill. Once again we enjoy pierogi and flour soup. We have to go back tomorrow. A real shame.
CHARTER INFORMATION
The company
130 houseboats strong is the fleet of Kuhnle-Tours. The well-established charter company was founded in 1981
and today has five bases in Germany, two in France and one in Poland. Here, in Piaski in Masuria, Kuhnle-Tours offers boats of the type Vetus 900, Kormoran 1280, 1140 and 940. All models can be used on the Great Masurian Lakes without a licence. There is a restaurant at the station, which belongs to the neighbouring cycling resort. There is also a guarded car park. Communication was excellent thanks to the German-speaking staff at the base.
Info:Kuhnle-Tours, Müritz harbour village, 17248 Rechlin, Tel. (03 98 23) 2 66-0
The boat
We travelled in a Kormoran 940, which is designed for 3+2 people. The steel displacement boat, built in 2003, was in excellent condition. The cosy interior and plenty of space make this type of boat the perfect holiday companion. The centrepiece on board is the wheelhouse with saloon, galley and steering position. There are three berths in the aft cabin (double or single berth), two more can be made up in the saloon. The sanitary area is amidships. The boat also has a second steering position (outside) and a bow thruster. The weekly price for a Kormoran 940 in Masuria is, depending on the time of the season, between
1130 euros and 2090 euros (as of 2013). Diesel, heating, gas and engine oil are charged according to operating hours. Details on the boat, other booking options, deposit and special offers at Kuhnle-Tours.
Technical data: Length 9.45 m, width 3.90 m, draught 0.85 m, clearance height 2.75 m, water tank approx. 800 l, diesel tank approx. 530 l, holding tank approx. 1000 l, engine 1 x 45.6 kW (62 hp) Nanni diesel.
TERRITORY INFORMATION
Journey
Piaski is about eight hours' drive from Berlin. We flew non-stop from Düsseldorf to Warsaw in about three quarters of an hour and took the "Masuria Shuttle" from there to Piaski (journey time about 4.5 hours including a break). The bus service also runs from Warsaw railway station and Gdansk airport. Transfer costs for Kuhnle Tours customers: 10 euros per person (return journey).
Cruising tips
The Great Masurian Lakes are a natural paradise on the one hand and a water tourism centre on the other, which can be lively during the holiday season. But even then you can still find quiet corners and dreamy anchorages. The only two locks in the area are located in the south of the chain of lakes. The movable bridge in Giżycko can become a "bottleneck" (closed 1.10 metres high, six openings a day in high season). Our charter boat was able to pass under all the fixed bridges. Speed restrictions are usually marked with signs. Weather reports can be obtained from the harbour masters
Supply
The infrastructure is mostly good to very good. In addition to the mooring options described, there are several others. The mooring prices for our charter boat ranged from the equivalent of around 3.50 euros (without service) to 14.50 euros (plus shower) per night. The Polish currency is the złoty. Credit cards are a common method of payment.
Cruise literature
