Where are we anchoring tonight? Where are we going to eat? The debates about the most beautiful bay with the best restaurant fill entire pages in logbooks, specialised magazines and forums. As BOOTE employees, Bodo Müller, Siegrun Scheiter and Jürgen Straßburger have been travelling along the east coast of the Adriatic since the early 1990s and have got to know (almost) every bay and dozens of restaurants. Now they have summarised their culinary experiences in aBook collected:"Gourmet cruises in Croatia". 66 places to go for hungry crews are listed, from Umag in the north to Cavtat in the south.
Umag in the north to Cavtat in the south, from rustic taverns to gourmet temples. The trio has selected ten tips for us, which we present on the following pages. So get ready to enjoy!
1st island of Brač, LuKa bay: "Pipo" restaurant
The "Pipo" is located in the wide bay of Luka in the north-east of Brač. Božidar Eterović began building the restaurant in 1996 and it opened at the turn of the millennium. The family also set up a seafood farm, a vegetable garden and a jetty. The chef's older brothers supply ingredients from their own production.
Location and berthsGuests can moor at the hotel's own jetty or anchor in the bay.
The kitchen: Head chef Božidar Eterović aims to bring the flavours of the island to the table. Fish is landed by his own boat or supplied by fishermen from Pučišća and Povlja, seafood comes from his own farm, island lamb from his brother Ivica. Vegetables, herbs and spices grow in their own organic garden next to the restaurant. Oil is extracted from the family's olive trees. Winegrowers from neighbouring islands supply the grapes for the home-made wine. Specialities include traditional dried fish fillet in oil and onions, sea urchin roe and lamb grilled over a pinewood fire.
Contact usRestaurant "Pipo", Povaljski zaljev, Luka Bay, 21400 Brač, tel. 021-784 5495 or 098-781 358, www.pipo1.com Operating hours: 15 April to 15 October from 07-24 hrs, reservation recommended
2nd Poreč: Restaurant "SV. Nikola"
In 2004, the building on the harbour pier overlooking the island of Sv. Nikola was converted into the "Sv. Nikola" was remodelled. The current chef Nikola Bijelić returned from Austria in 2007, where he had run a restaurant for twelve years. He seized the opportunity, rented the restaurant and turned it into the gourmet address in Poreč within just a few years.
Location and moorings: Yachts moor at the town pier of Poreč on the pier stern to the pier directly in front of the restaurant.
The kitchenThe "Sv. Nikola" impresses with its top location with a view over the harbour bay to the island of
Sv. Nikola. The owner and chef offer the finest Istrian delicacies with an Austrian twist, such as homemade gnocchi with shrimps and courgettes or cold-smoked swordfish. The homemade desserts are also an irresistible temptation. The ambience of the restaurant and the quality of the food are outstanding.
Contact: "Sv. Nikola" Restaurant, Obala M. Tita 23, 52440 Poreč, tel. 052-423 018, mobile: 099-315 42 95, www.svnikola.com Operating hours: All year round
3rd island of Cres, Valun: Gostionica "Na Moru"
"Na Moru" is the oldest restaurant in Valun and is located on the best square in the picturesque village. 1909
by the Krivičić family, it was taken over by their son Giordano and his wife Karmen. Their children Martina and Ivan are now the third generation on board.
Location and berths: Yachts moor at the outer pier of the small fishing harbour. But beware of the bora!
The kitchenThe cuisine offers Mediterranean dishes based on old island recipes. Junior chef Ivan grills fresh catch from Kvarner, which is traditionally dabbed with a sprig of rosemary dipped in olive oil. Whether it's a mixed fish platter, devil fish, scorpion fish or lamb from Cres - everything here is a treat for the palate. The day ends perfectly with sorbet and pine schnapps and a view of the sunset.
Contact usGostionica "Na Moru", Valun 65, 51557 Cres, tel. 051-525 056, opening hours: Easter to 30 September, from 11 am to 2 pm, reservation recommended
4. island of Lošinj, Mali Lošinj: Restaurant "Baracuda"
The "Baracuda" is located on the southern promenade of Mali Lošinj's town harbour, where chef Drago Rančić runs the restaurant with a young team of creative chefs and friendly service staff.
Location and berthsGuests moor in the town harbour of Mali Lošinj. With a bit of luck, you will be moored directly in front of the "Baracuda".
The kitchenThe restaurant mainly serves freshly caught fish and seafood from local fishermen from Kvarner. The menu also includes typical local meat dishes. Local spices, vegetables and fruit are used imaginatively. Specialities include octopus salad with field beans, tuna with sea fennel and olive oil, minestrone with Kvarner calamari or sweet baked almonds with orange peel.
Contact usRestaurant "Baracuda", Priko 31, 51550 Mali Lošinj, tel. 051-233 309, opening hours: 1 March to 31 October from 10 am to 2 pm, reservation recommended during the season
5th island of Ilovik: "Amico" inn
The "Amico" is located on the harbour pier of the flower island of Ilovik, directly on the channel between the islands of Ilovik and Sv. Petar. The friendly Elza Stojšić has been spoiling her guests with Mediterranean delicacies since 1980, and her son Žjelko has been steering the restaurant's culinary course since 2010.
Location and moorings: Yachts moor on the south side of the Ilovik harbour pier or at a buoy in the canal. It is only a few steps from the pier to the guesthouse, and from the buoy field you can take a dinghy or transfer service to the terrace.
The specialityThe "Amico" cultivates traditional island cuisine according to old family recipes. It serves freshly caught fish and seafood from the Ilovička Vrata as well as vegetables and olive oil from the local archipelago. Cuisine specialities include fish from the oven, octopus salad, scallops au gratin, fish stew, grilled fish and pancakes with fig or orange marmalade. When the excursion boats have left in the evening and it is quiet, you can enjoy the view of the canal from the terrace.
Contact usRestaurant "Amico", Ilovik 29, 51552 Ilovik, tel. 051-235 912, mobile: 098-962 87 14, opening hours:
01 April to 31 October from 09-24, reservation recommended
6. island Dugi Otok, bay Kruševica: Konoba "Kršovica
The rustic konoba "Kršovica" is located on the northern shore of Telašćica Bay in the lower bay of Kruševica. In 1995, old hippie Goran Jagić built rustic tables and benches under the pine trees, built an outdoor barbecue and lovingly landscaped his small garden by the sea. From a distance, you can just make out the letters KRŠOVICA hanging from a wooden pole.
Location and berths: Yachts anchor in Kruševica Bay or moor at a buoy. Take the dinghy to the dinghy jetty in front of the "Kršovica".
The speciality: The "Kršovica" tavern is not a gourmet temple. But it offers rustic Dalmatian grill cuisine in a rustic ambience. Owner Goran Jacić is the master of his black cuisine. Fish from local fishermen and meat from Dugi Otok are prepared in front of the guests.
This creates a good atmosphere among the crews, who eat and celebrate together at long tables. A marvellous konoba under a canopy of pine trees with an unobstructed view of the sunset over Telašćica Bay. Incidentally, Goran's son Sebastian runs the floating "Toni's Supermarket". He visits the moorings in Telašćica in the morning and sells fresh bread as well as fruit and vegetables from the island.
Contact usKonoba "Kršovica" island of Dugi Otok, Telašćica Nature Park, Kruševica Bay, tel. 098-1607 902
7. island Žut, bay Žut: Seafood restaurant "Fešta"
The "Fešta" is located south of the ACI marina in Golubovac bay. In 2000, Krešimir Mudronja had little more than an old stone house by the sea and an overgrown olive grove. Today, his restaurant is one of the best seafood restaurants in the Mediterranean.
Location and berthsFešta private marina has 40 guest berths in water depths of 2 to 7 metres. South of the 60 metre-long floating jetty, large yachts can moor alongside by prior arrangement.
The speciality: In addition to traditional island cuisine, the restaurant offers a wealth of its own creations made from fish and seafood. Young top chefs conjure up veritable works of art - both visually and in terms of flavour. Fish and shellfish come from local fishermen, oil from the restaurant's own olive grove. Specialities include Seafood on ice with lemon, braised lobster with spaghetti or fish baked on a bed of salt. The restaurant's own creations include swordfish tartare and gilthead bream carpaccio with truffles and capers.
Contact: Fish restaurant "Fešta" ,Island Žut, Kornati islands ,Tel. 098-425 229, www.zut.hr
8th island of Ravni Žakan, Žakan bayRestaurant "Konoba Žakan"
The "Konoba Žakan" is located in the south of the Kornati islands on the island of Ravni Žakan. It is owned by Marina Hramina in Murter. Since 2011, the former fish loading point has been completely redesigned as an architectural gem with a stylish interior and top-class gastronomy.
with a stylish interior and top-class catering.
Location and moorings: Yachts can moor at the piers in front of the restaurant "Konoba Žakan". Advance booking is recommended. If there is no space available there, the crew can anchor in Žakan Bay.
The speciality: Head chef Zoran Gajić combines the traditional cuisine of the Kurnatars with international cuisine to create state-of-the-art cuisine. His team creates culinary delights using fish and shellfish fresh from the archipelago. Meat and vegetables from the region are combined with local herbs
and their own olive oil to create culinary works of art. One speciality is Kornati lamb with its unique flavour, as the animals graze on barren land. Other house specialities include octopus salad, fish stew, monkfish and lamb peka and lobster with spaghetti. The pancakes with wine cream are irresistible. Croatian and international wines are on offer. The ambience and service are excellent.
Contact: Restaurant "Konoba Žakan", island of Ravni Žakan, Kornati National Park, tel. 091-377 6015, www.marina-hramina.hr
9. Skradin: Konoba "Vidrovača"
Konoba "Vidrovača" is picturesquely situated in the shade of old trees in the bay of the same name in the canyon of the River Krka, just under a nautical mile south of the village of Skradin. Since 1998, Vlatko Petrović has been running the konoba on an old hillside property surrounded by lush nature and not far from the famous Krka waterfalls.
Location and moorings: Up to 26 yachts can moor at the marina's own jetty. Alternatively, you can moor in the nearby ACI Marina Skradin. A boat shuttle between the konoba and the marina can be arranged by telephone.
The specialityFish and shellfish for the kitchen from the freshwater river Krka and the Šibenik archipelago. Specialities include octopus salad, fish soup, grilled or baked fish, lamb peka, scallops au gratin, spaghetti with mussels in buzzara and fresh or baked oysters.
Contact: Konoba "Vidrovača" Vidrovača Bay, 22222 Skradin, Tel. 098-757 281 ,www.vidrovaca.com
10) Island of Hvar, Sveta Nedjelja: Restaurant "Bilo Idro"
Founded in 1986, the Plenković family's winery is now one of the largest in Croatia. National and international awards crown the excellent white and red wines. Winemaker Zlatan Plenković lives in the village of Sveta Nedjelja on the steep southern coast of the island of Hvar. In 2005, he built a harbour with a restaurant, which is now the village's main attraction.
Location and moorings: Yachts moor in the harbour in front of the "Bilo Idro". It is dangerous to enter and leave the harbour at Jugo. Be sure to book!
SpecificsThe traditional art of preparing fish and seafood and the large selection of excellent wines make the "Bilo Idro" a top address. Local fishermen deliver fresh catch from the sea near Hvar. Meat, vegetables, herbs and olive oil come from neighbouring farms and fields. Specialities include grilled fish and squid, mussels in white wine sauce and seafood risotto. Zlatan Plenković is happy to show his guests around his underwater wine cellar or present his best wines at the table and has plenty to say about them. The service and ambience are unique, the wines top-notch.
Contact usRestaurant "Bilo Idro", Island of Hvar, 21450 Hvar, Tel. 021-745 703, www.zlatanotok.hr
The book to the article
" Gourmet cruises in Croatia "
66 top restaurants on the coast. Bodo Müller, Siegrun Scheiter, Jürgen Straßburger. Location and contact information, harbour plans and overview map. Edition Maritim: 168 pages, 225 colour photos, 71 colour plans, format 15 x 20.9 cm, gatefold brochure, ISBN 978-3-667-10433-5, €19.90 www.delius-klasing.de
