What would happen, asks BOOTE editor Christian Tiedt in issue 11/2015, if the twoDahme and Spree waterways connect navigable in its upper reaches would? The answer: "The Green Dream" would be created, a 160-kilometre round trip that is already very popular with paddlers and canoeists as the "Märkische Umfahrt".
For them, boat tows are enough to overcome the height differences in the area. Experienced motorboats, on the other hand, would need hoists or locks to make the "green dream" come true. This is the goal of the Brandenburg South-East Water Tourism Initiative working group:
"The creation of the continuous bypass with recreational boats ... up to 13 metres in length and the creation of the accompanying tourist infrastructure were ... as the most important measures for the development of the area"( ag- wiso-brandenburg )
As long as the realisation of this project is delayed, the motorboat faction will have to limit itself to parts of this dream.
"Our" part is the Neuhauser Speisekanal, the Middle Spree from the Neuhaus lock to the Glower See and the Schwielochsee. That's just under 40 kilometres, which you could easily do in one day. So the question arises as to why we didn't continue along the Spree from Glower See towards Trebatsch, Kossenblatt and Alt Schadow to Neuendorfer See.
We were planning to! But: Last year, the Brandenburg State Office for Construction and Transport ( lbv. brandenburg ) before "Diving depth restriction to 0.50 metres in the underwater section of the Kossenblatt lock". We didn't think it was wise to go through anyway, although some local "area experts" told us:
"If you know how to do it, you can do it."
But risking propeller or wave damage, which would not have been covered by any insurance company in the world in view of the official warning published by the LBV, was out of the question for us. This would have made the Middle Spree a dead end just twelve kilometres west of Glower See and not only after around 25 kilometres at Neuendorfer See. So we skipped this section of the Spree completely.
And not just us! This raises the question: does nobody go there because there are infrastructural deficits, or do these deficits exist because nobody goes there? This is a problem that cannot be solved in the short term.
The Neuhauser Speisekanal 1 branches off from the Oder-Spree Canal at kilometre 96. Its water is crystal clear, and at an official depth of just 1.30 metres, the bottom becomes visible towards the bank. After a good two kilometres comes the Neuhaus lock. There is a waiting jetty on the port side, so you can contact the lock keeper personally.
"Get going right away", he says, "when the bridge is up, you can drive in". A Dutch-style bascule bridge in the depths of Brandenburg.
The assumption that the Speisekanal could be an estuary canal of the Spree is wrong. It is a genuine connecting canal between the Spree and the crest of the Oder-Spree Canal 2, whose water level is around 1.25 metres higher than the water level of the Spree.
So it's "down" for us in the lock before it releases us into the Wergensee, an umbrella-shaped bulge in the Spree with quiet anchorages. Here you can take your first dip in the clear water...
The narrow exit towards the Spree lies at the south-western tip of the lake. Hard to starboard, it leads into the area closed to motorboats.Drahendorfer Spreeat kilometre 89 into theOder-Spree Canal which here also"Fürstenwalder Spree" is called. We keep straight ahead and enter the green gorge of the Middle Spree: meadows, forests, fields, pond roses and reed beds are now our constant companions. Pure nature. Encounters with other boats are rare. And this despite the fact that we are travelling in the middle of the high season (20 July).
Only inBeeskow buildings become visible again. In the underwater section of the Beeskow lock, behind a pedestrian bridge (clearance height at least 3.50 m), there is an unadorned harbour basin measuring 70 by 35 m, which is "Marina Beeskow", but does not have much to do with what is commonly understood by this term:
Short stub jetties on the bollarded north-west bank, an incompletely developed south-east bank. Instead, there is a well-designed slipway that is suitable for all trailerable boats. Sparse stone slabs surround the quays and there is a caravan site on the north-western edge.
The upper water of the SB lock at the guest jetty of the "Wasserwelt" is a more beautiful spot. Both the marina and the jetty are operated by André Rädel. Here you can moor comfortably alongside with water and electricity connections. The sanitary facilities are just a few steps away and the nearest supermarket is around 300 metres from the harbour. www.marina-beeskow.de
But the highlight is the café and restaurant "Water world" with good regional cuisine and a wonderful terrace with a view of the Spree. When you've had enough of the water, walk into the town: Between St Mary's Church and the oldest house in Beeskow (museum) is the restaurant "Church hermitage". Those who stop off here enjoy "heavenly food". www.kirchenklause-beeskow.de
"Beeskow is not as bad as it sounds," wrote Theodor Fontane in his diary in 1862.
He did not want to bestow more honour on the small town with its castle and medieval town centre, although this had little to do with the place, but a lot to do with his wife: Emilie was born in Beeskow as the illegitimate daughter of a preacher's widow and the local garrison doctor and was "advertised" for adoption at the age of three. At the time, this was considered highly dishonourable and Fontane tried to cover up her origins.
But I don't want to hide the fact that Beeskow is the only town worth seeing and mentioning along the entire Middle Spree. The "rest" is sparsely populated villages or pure nature. An area for skippers and crews looking for relaxation away from the hustle and bustle and urbanity.
Nine kilometres south of Beeskow on the Spree we pass theHand cable ferry Leißnitzthe only one of its kind in Brandenburg. Warning signs point this out. Above the ferry we reach theLake Leißnitzon the north-east bank of which theMarina Leißnitz in idyllic tranquillity. 25 boats up to 12 metres long can be moored on the wooden jetty
on dolphins in front of bow or stern anchors at a water depth of 1.20 metres. Water, electricity, showers and toilets are available, as well as a washing machine and tumble dryer and a faeces extraction system.
There is nothing going on in Leißnitz. The nearest shopping facilities are in Beeskow, and the "Schur" restaurant 500 metres from the harbour is rarely open in the evenings, according to the marina operator. Contact for the harbour: Jeannette Neumann, Tel. 0172/392 13 73. Here too, the question arises as to why a jetty is called a "marina", which is usually used to describe a "full-service harbour" for boat and crew.
But the clocks tick differently on the Spree and Schwielochsee:All the facilities that trade here as "marinas" are exaggerating.
Leißnitz describes itself as "Gateway to Lake Schwielochsee", and indeed, after the Leißnitzsee, there is only the two-kilometre-long Glower See to cycle through before reaching the Schwielochsee. But wait: the "Krumme Spree" flows in from the west at the south-western end of the Glower See. If you followed the course of the river here, you would reach Kossenblatt after twelve kilometres - but we've already covered that topic ...
The southern exit of Lake Glow and the navigation channel of Lake Schwieloch are well buoyed in a north-south direction. But already at the third pair of buoys of the Schwielochsee we turn to the north-east and run into theNiewischer Bayin. The solid floating dock of theSchwielochsee Campings Niewisch is hidden behind a headland on the southern shore. The boats only become visible once you have rounded it. 60 berths with water and electricity connections for boats up to 10 metres in length. Slipway for all trailerable boats.
And of course, the four-star campsite offers everything the crew needs: Shower, WC, washing machine, tumble dryer, wellness area with sauna, children's playground, "Seeteufel" restaurant with terrace (the boss himself still cooks here), bread roll service and WLAN. A holiday oasis that is suitable for more than just a short stay. www.camping-niewisch.de
TheWater skiing Eldorado of the Schwielochsee lies in its south-easternmost bulge. When approaching from the north, note the north cardinal point and the shallows to the south-east and south-west of it. The yellow buoyage quickly becomes visible, whichthe water ski course of the motor yacht and water ski club Schwielochsee marked. TheHarbour facility of the MYWSC is located about 300 metres above the mouth of the Doberburger Mühlenfließ into the Schwielochsee. 50 berths on side pontoons for boats up to 12 metres in length with water, electricity, shower, WC, washing machine and dryer as well as a 6.5-tonne crane. The inn "Zur Linde" in Speichrow is 1.5 km away, the butcher there also sells bread rolls. The nearest supermarket is in Goyatz (3 km).
"Camping and boating" or "boating and camping": that's the big thing on Lake Schwielochsee. There are two very large campsites with jetties to the north-north-west of the small Rohrberg island on the western shore of the lake, which is a nature reserve:the Schwielochsee marina in the Ludwig Leichhardt holiday home and camping park and the Zaue marinaaround 400 metres to the south. The Schwielochsee marina is more of a "camping and boating" concept: the location of the modern floating jetty for 25 boats on accessible side jetties with water and electricity is easily recognisable by the "yellow wave", the 100 m long sandy beach to the south of the jetty and the holiday homes hidden in the forest. The campsite provides sanitary facilities with showers, toilets, washing machine and tumble dryer, while the "Waldklause" café provides refreshments. There is also a kiosk with a small mini-market.
Marina Zaue stands for "Boot und Camping" (boating and camping).skippers' needs even better: A combined fixed and floating jetty with 60 berths on accessible side pontoons for boats up to 15 metres in length. Water and electricity at the jetty. The sanitary facilities on the campsite are (still) relatively far away from the jetty; a new building is being planned. Well-developed slipway, suitable for all trailerable boats. At the foot of the jetty is the "Yachtklause", an inviting restaurant with a terrace.
Like plugs, the two Easter Islands block the south-western bulge of the Schwielochsee and the direct view into the "Hals", the connection with the Kleiner Schwielochsee, which is only around 100 metres wide.
TheEaster Island may only be passed to the west: simply follow the navigation channel! In the Kleiner Schwielochsee, first round the restricted area marked with yellow buoys to the east, then the large harbour facility of theSeesport and yacht club Goyatz visible on the south-west bank. The white club buildings with a hall and a square, tower-like building with four large mullioned windows are unmistakable.
The club quite rightly describes its yellow wave harbour as aone of the most modern on the Schwielochsee. It has 120 berths for boats up to 3.50 metres wide. Guest berths are designated at the head of the centre jetty. They are alongside with water and electricity connections. The only boat filling station in the area (diesel and petrol) is located at the head of the north-eastern jetty. There is also a faeces extraction system here. Slipway for boats up to 7 metres in length, 25-tonne mobile crane, 20-tonne rail slip.
A club room is located in the "tower", the sanitary facilities in side rooms of the hall. Washing machine. Six double rooms, ten pitches for motorhomes or tents ( www.seesport-yachtclub-goyatz.de ). The supply possibilities are also perfect: The supermarket (Netto) is 350 metres away. Fresh bread rolls are also available there on Sundays from 6.30 am to 11 am. The cosy café-restaurant "Am See" is only 150 m away.
But if you want the best view of the lake, walk 500 metres to the "harbour terrace". If a place is free, you can also moor directly at the modern floating jetty with water and electricity: Tel. 0178/8 48 05 51. You can also be served on board on request! Shower and WC 100 metres above the jetty. www.hafenterrasse-goyatz.de
It's 22 July 2015, 9 a.m.: a northerly course on the Schwielochsee. Not a breath is stirring, it's oppressively hot. Not another boat for miles around. The lake is in bloom. It lies flat and bright green in front of us. Green is the hope, and green is the dream. Will it ever come true?
