Just a few minutes ago, we elegantly slid our Technohull SeaDNA 999 into a narrow gap between two fishing boats in the harbour of Naoussa on the island of Paros and moored it there. We don't need any fenders as we have a thick inner tube. After a few steps, we are already sitting in the cosy harbour bar "Mediterrano" run by Petros Tsounakis.
Before we know it, a bottle of homemade marc brandy is on the table. Culinary fireworks follow. In short, there could be no better way to start a cruise through the island world of the Cyclades.
We set off in the morning from Lavrio, south-east of Athens, just 30 kilometres from the airport. Here, in a large hall, our charter boat from "RIB Cruises" stored. The company is owned by Takis Marinos, who has been active in this business for around 10 years. Since 2013, he has been running his own company, which mainly deals with the hire of large rigid-hull inflatable boats, which are particularly popular in Greece. There are currently around 80 boats from a good four to 15 metres in length on offer - some even with cabins - which are available from Athens or various islands.
In principle, the company delivers boats to any location in the country and collects them again after the hire period. If you don't have the right licence, you don't have to miss out on the fun. Skippers can then be booked. For some boats, such as our Technohull 999 SeaDNA, this is generally required. However, exceptions are possible with appropriate proof of experience.
We have quickly loaded our luggage and are hanging on the hook of a large pick-up, which drives us to the ramp in the bay. And off we go. The most efficient speed for the Technohull, which is powered by two powerful Yamaha F300s, is quickly determined: It is a sporty 32 knots, with the engines operating in the moderate range at 3300 rpm and consuming a total of 58 litres per hour. That sounds like a lot, but it is no more than 12 litres per hour at just under seven knots with a displacement boat. You just reach your destination much faster.
This time, we'll leave tourist strongholds like Naxos, Mykonos and Santorini to others. We want to explore the secluded world of the Cyclades with lesser-known small islands such as Iraklia or Pano Koufonisi.
But there are also busier destinations such as Paros and Milos. Because a beautiful bay beckons for a stopover, we head for the south-eastern tip of the island of Kea after 20 nautical miles. Here we get a foretaste of the highlights the week has in store.
We are alone in the cosy bay and run up onto the sandy beach with the bow. It doesn't get any better than this. On the way to our first destination, the town of Naoussa on Paros, we also stop by the "Natural High" water ski and wakeboard school at Paros Parc. The school is located in a popular, sheltered part of the northern tip of Noussa Bay. After around 70 nautical miles, we moor in the harbour.
After the aforementioned binge, we quickly change our plans to go to Antiparos. We like the atmosphere and spontaneously put up at the Hotel Madaki, right by the harbour. You have to be flexible in Greece, as this first day of sailing shows. The clocks tick differently on the islands!
The lively Saturday evening ends with cocktails in the trendy "Art Café Fotis", right by the harbour in the old town. We are certain that we have made the right decision. After all, tomorrow is another day.
Antiparos
The next morning we continue on to Antiparos. Less than half an hour later, after just 13 nautical miles, we dock in the natural harbour of the island village of the same name. Christos from our hotel Kouros Village is already waiting for us. A few minutes later, we arrive at our pretty domicile on the other side of the harbour and are greeted warmly by his wife Iliada. Her parents founded the resort, which is now run by their daughter. There are plans to install jetties in front of the hotel.
In the coming season (2018), guests may be able to board the RIB of their choice directly in front of their room, regardless of whether they are only planning a day trip or have rented the boat for a longer period. Spacious and stylishly decorated rooms await us. However, the inviting pool and our dinghy will have to wait, as a fresh wind and dark clouds mean we have an unplanned afternoon ashore.
As the weather doesn't improve the next day either, we take a trip to the stalactite cave in the centre of the island. This is easy to do by bus, quad bike (from €15 per day) or hire car (from €20 per day). On the way, we get stuck at a junction due to a lack of signposting and ask at a petrol station. The petrol station attendant can help. Instead of petrol, he kindly offers us a schnapps. These people are in a good mood, we think to ourselves, but thankfully decline.
Spilion Agiou Ioánnou is one of the largest caves in the Cyclades. The entrance is on a hill. From there, you walk past huge stalactites and stalagmites for around 100 metres and countless steps downhill into the huge cave. Although centuries of intensive exploration have left their mark, the visit is still impressive. Back in daylight, we explore the 35 square kilometre islet a little further. Apart from scattered houses, pastures with sheep or goats, and the occasional grandiose villa of wealthy contemporaries who probably only rarely relax on their estates, the landscape is predominantly unspoilt.
Back in the main town, a walk here also shows that the island has been spared from mass tourism. There are less than 1000 inhabitants, most of them in the only settlement. In winter, there are probably only a few hundred. The harbour is characterised by small fishing boats. Some fishermen sit on the wall or on board and mend their nets. However, the pretty village is well prepared for guests.
Many small taverns and bars invite you to visit the quaint alleyways. Small hotels, guesthouses and private accommodation are waiting for level-headed guests without a penchant for hustle and bustle. If you are looking for peace and cosiness, this is the place for you. Tom Hanks and Brad Pitt probably thought so too, as the two film stars are said to own houses on the island and often spend their free time here. We enjoy a delicious dinner just a few steps from our domicile in the restaurant of the Argo Pension in.
The next day we explore the bays around the island. But to be on the safe side, we want to refuel first. However, this works a little differently on the Greek islands than usual, as there are no petrol stations in the harbours. The petrol is brought in by tankers. An appointment has to be made for this. However, the charter company takes care of the procedure. The guest just has to be at the right place at the agreed time.
If you are looking for pretty places to anchor and swim, you don't have to travel far on Antiparos. However, you need a boat to visit, otherwise you can't get there. This limits the number of visitors. So again, not for mass tourists. Boaters, on the other hand, can enjoy the crystal-clear turquoise waters of Tigani Island after just four nautical miles. The sandy bottom at N 36° 58.6', E 025° 6.8' is ideal for anchoring.
In addition to swimming or snorkelling, there is a unique dive site called "The Dome" in the south of the neighbouring island of Pantieronisi. At a depth of around 10 metres, there are several entrances to a stalactite cave. You can surface in the air-filled upper part and admire the stalactites. Board sports enthusiasts can enjoy themselves outside the shallow water areas between the islands and then return to anchor to chill out.
Less than three nautical miles away to the south-east is another marvellous bathing bay. At N 36° 56.787', E 25° 4.371' you can anchor or put the bow of the RIB on the sandy beach. Be careful, however, as shallow areas can jeopardise the propellers (so trim up the engines!) and the hull can suck on the sand, making it difficult to push it free. You will also be rewarded with crystal-clear water and usually absolute peace and quiet.
Another highlight of pretty bays awaits just three nautical miles away on the south-west side of Antiparos. The small bay for swimming at N 36° 57.7', E 025° 2.8' can be reached through a cave-like arcade. Lateral access from the north is also possible. If you want to plan a meal after the swimming stops, you will find anchorages immediately to the north at N 36° 58.4', E 025° 1.6' and the excellent Fish restaurant "Captain Pipinos". Anyone who anchors directly in front of the restaurant and waves to attract attention will be picked up. The fishermen's small private jetties are very shallow and dangerous.
We make our way back in the evening light. This is done quickly, so we sail another two nautical miles north past the harbour of Antiparos to the uninhabited Spiridhonas Islands and enjoy the colourful scenery at sunset.
Koufonisia
Next, we want to visit some of the islands in the secluded and very quiet Small Eastern Cyclades. The journey takes us past the south coast of Naxos to our first destination, the tranquil and hardly touristy Koufonisia group of islands. The northern main island of Pano Koufonisi has only around 400 inhabitants. It was already inhabited 5000 years ago, as evidenced by graves from the Bronze Age. During Ottoman rule, pirates are said to have found refuge here, followed by hippies in the last century. The inhabitants live mainly from fishing, some agriculture and moderate tourism.
First we explore the large anchorage in the north-east at N 36° 56.7', E 025° 37.3', which offers good protection against northerly winds such as the Meltemi, which is omnipresent in midsummer. We then moor in the new private harbour in the village of the same name, Koufonisi, to explore the island. The old marina in the south-west is reserved for locals. A walk leads along the sandy beach of the promenade to the south-east side, where hippies still pitch their tents in summer. Before continuing our journey, we decide to visit the Lefteris restaurant directly in front of Ammos Beach in the centre of the bay. Here, too, we enjoy an excellent meal.
Our next destination is the uninhabited island of Kato Koufonisi, as there are ideal bays here for a swim. One of the spots is in the north-east at N 36° 54.8', E 025° 35.4', the other in the south-east at N 36° 54.1', E 025° 34.5'. We then head for Schinoussa, which has around 250 inhabitants and covers an area of just under nine square kilometres. There is a harbour on the south side of the small settlement of Mersini in a sheltered bay.
In summer, superyachts occasionally anchor here. Good restaurants await guests on the promenade. Anchoring is also possible in the two bays to the south-east. However, caution is advised due to the numerous stones and shallow areas. In the first, the Tsigouri beach bar serves Greek specialities and in the next, the Livadi Beach Studios await hungry or tired guests staying one or more nights.
Iraklia
We continue to Iraklia, the largest and most south-westerly island of the Lesser Eastern Cyclades at around 18 square kilometres, which was demonstrably already inhabited 5000 years ago. Only around 140 inhabitants live here. They have so far shown little interest in tourism. The island is correspondingly quiet. If you are looking for a retreat, this is the place for you. A few small restaurants and private accommodation make a stay possible.
The harbour of the village of Agios Georgios offers good protection from wind and waves from the west and north and opens up to the east. We explore the village and decide on a Greek coffee in the "Akathi Cafe Bar Restaurant". The impressive Agios Ioannis stalactite cave with a total of six chambers and a depth of 80 metres can also be visited here on the south-east coast.
Another treat awaits snorkellers and divers, along with many other underwater destinations off the island. In the bay of Alimia in the extreme south-west lies the wreckage of a German Arado 196 seaplane that was badly damaged by gunfire in 1943 and sank after an emergency landing. The curious catch was netted by fishermen in 1982 between the islands of Ios and Iraklia at a depth of over 90 metres, who then towed it into the bay to its current position at a depth of just 11 metres. Unfortunately, we don't have time to explore the two highlights. We have to make our way back. After a total of around 70 nautical miles, we return to our domicile in Antiparos to enjoy the evening in a taverna in the centre.
Milos
The next day we visit Milos: The large island is by far the most tourist-influenced place on our programme. There are around 5000 inhabitants. Inhabited for at least 7000 years, Milos was already an important island in ancient times. The "Venus de Milo", a marble statue of the goddess Aphrodite, was found here in 1820 and is now in the Louvre in Paris.
On the 50 nautical mile journey, however, we don't want to miss out on a visit to the neighbouring island of Kimolos. Around 1000 inhabitants still live from fishing here. Tourism is still in its infancy. We find beautiful bays with a pretty backdrop for anchoring and swimming near the harbour of Psathi and in the bay to the north with the beaches of Rema and Karas.
Next, we call at the harbour of Pollonia on the north-eastern tip of Milos. Here, too, restaurants and the Milos Diving Centre. On the way to the harbour of Adamas in the large bay of Milos, you will inevitably pass the picturesque fishing village of Klima. The syrmata, brightly coloured fishermen's houses built directly on the shore with their boat garages, are characteristic of the island.
They form a marvellous backdrop before the entrance to the bay of Milos. We moor in the harbour of Adamas. After the tour, we enjoy lunch in the traditional Greek restaurant Trapatselis right on the shore before setting off on the return journey. It takes less than two hours. We then spend the evening in the cosy cocktail bar "Smile" in the centre of Antiparos.
Around midday the following day, we set off on our return journey to Lavrio. Halfway along the route, a large ray waves its wings right next to us as we say goodbye from the mirror-smooth waters of the Aegean. We are left with impressions of wonderful bays and tranquil villages that are still characterised by their original way of life. It is a difficult farewell, because in this beautiful corner of the Mediterranean you could let your soul dangle for longer.
THIS TRAVEL REPORT APPEARED IN BOOTE-EDITION 12/2017
