The northernmost part of the Spanish Mediterranean coast lies in the autonomous region of Catalonia and begins right on the border with France. Due to its location and easy accessibility, the area has long been a popular holiday destination.also with German skippers a popular destination. Portbou is the first harbour that can be called at in the north. Around 60 nautical miles to the south, the "wild coast", as the section is called in direct translation, ends at Blanes.
In between, the mountain ranges from the hinterland partly fall withrugged cliffs in rough landscapes into the sea. Again and again lined with beaches that invite you to linger. In the small anchor bays andpicturesque old fishing villageswhich line the banks like a string of pearls, there is plenty to discover. Since the mid-1960s, tourism has become the dominant industry in the region, which is associated with a number of architectural sins. However, large sections still appear in their former splendour.
Especially in the north and around the Cap de Creus with its natural park, there is plenty of unspoilt countryside with original settlements such as the picturesque Cadaqués or the wonderful bay of Portlligat, where Salvador Dali lived.
Theeccentric artists was very much in favour of keeping everything here in its old form, and this is still noticeable today. Instead of marinas, there are large fields of buoys. It is almost impossible to lie here with a beautiful view. Of course, these idyllic places are also tourist magnets, which is particularly noticeable in the high season.But you can easily escape the hustle and bustle by boat. There are small beaches along the coast as well as excellent diving spots that are often inaccessible from land. Stages of several long-distance hiking trails, such as the GR 91, also run here.
In theBay of Roses is followed by a flatter section. Long sandy beaches tempt you to stop for a swim at anchor. Shortly after the Greek-Roman ruins near the medieval settlement of Sant Martí d'Empúries, which are well worth seeing, and the pretty old town of L'Escala, the route becomes rockier again. Between the Medas Islands near L'Estartit with theirUnderwater nature reserve and top-class diving sites as well as the well-known fishing centre of Palamós, rocky sections alternate with small sandy beaches.
Here, too, there are numerous opportunities to sail into bays and then make your way back to a marina in the evening and indulge in the region's undoubtedly excellent culinary offerings, including the top products of local winegrowers.
The range extends from simple butdelicious specialitiesfrom the Catalan tomato bread Pa amb Tomàquet or the Mediterranean fish and seafood stew Suquet de Peix de Roses to delicacies such as the extraordinarily aromatic, bright red prawns from Palamos or the anchovies from L'Escala.
The region is also known for its Michelin-starred gastronomy from numerous top chefs. The most famous representative is Ferran Adrià, one of theCo-founder of molecular cuisinewho once had his world-famous restaurant elBulli in the bay of Montjoi near Roses. His culinary ideas still inspire many restaurants today. Incidentally, the very varied Costa Brava cannot only be explored with your own trailer boat. We found in all the marinas we visitedMoorings for boats you bring with you and for permanent residents as well as numerous charter offers from dinghies with outboard engines to larger motor yachts.
Cadaqués
TheFishing villagewith the winding alleyways of its old town and the snow-white houses offers a marvellous sight with an unspoilt backdrop. That is why tourism dominates here. Restaurants, street cafés and small shops alternate in the streetscape. The centre is dominated by the church of Santa Maria, which was rebuilt in the 16th century in the late Gothic style and is also the town's landmark.
The original, documented as far back as the 13th century, was destroyed by the Ottomans in 1543. Salvador Dali had a close connection to the place, as he spent part of his childhood here and later settled nearby. This attracted many other artists. Art and culture still play an important role in Cadaqués today. There is a large and well-protected bay in front of the town centre, where countless boats await their next departure.
Anchoring is prohibited in the bay. There is a large field of licensed buoys that can also be hired out for short and longer stops, usually with a shuttle service. The Charter offers range from inflatable dinghies to Llaüt, the classic fishing boats.
Port de la Selva
TheNatural harbour in the west of Cap de Creus consisted of tool sheds belonging to local fishermen who lived in Selva del Mar in the 18th century. Today, the community of 1,000 people makes its living from tourism. But there are still fishermen. There is also a beautiful marina and marvellous beaches. The Marina has guest berths, slipway, crane service, trailer parking and also offers charter boats in a small fleet.
Port ligature
The bay of Portlligat follows to the north of Cadaqués and is located inalmost untouched condition. The artist Salvador Dali, who lived here, successfully campaigned for this. The house, which he lived in with his wife Gala, is now a popular museum and, in addition to the nature experience, theHighlight. Anchoring is possible outside the authorised rental buoy fields. A dinghy is a must. There are no service or charter boats.
Empuriabrava
The Retort city has been developed for boat tourism since 1967. There are around 5000 moorings in the 23-kilometre-long artificial canal network. This makes the town one of the largest marinas in Europe. The majority of the properties are privately owned and have their own moorings. Moorings and flats can be rented. Comprehensive services are available on site, as are charter companies.
Roses
TheFishing harbour is one of the largest in Catalonia. It also includes a modern marina. The town has been inhabited since the Neolithic Age. Even the Romans used a harbour here. The sandy beach and good infrastructure attract tourists. There are numerous anchor bays in a northerly direction. In the Portroses offers a complete marina service with permanent and over 100 guest berths. Charter yachts are also available here.
Palamós
OneRoman settlement was the basis for the construction of the harbour in the 13th century. Palamós is home to one of the largest fishing fleets in the region. A visit to the auction halls and the Fishing Museum is well worth a visit. The town is famous for its tasty prawns, which are also available in numerous restaurants along with the other fresh catch. Long sandy beaches with many hotels along the south coast attract many tourists. The hustle and bustle in high summer is correspondingly high. In the north, however, there are quiet cliffs with cosy little bays.
ThePort Esportiu Mari Marina Palamós is a large marina with its own entrance, located to the north of the industrial harbour and the town. A full range of boating services is offered here. Over 50 charter boats are available.
Numerous anchor bays are located in the north off Palamós. In the marina in Llafranc and at the buoy field of Aigua Blave you can stay overnight on the way north in the low season. In summer, everything is overcrowded.
L'Escala
Thepicturesque old townof L'Escala is also complemented by modern buildings on the seafront promenade. To the north, the ruins of the Greco-Roman settlement of Empúries and the medieval town of Sant Martí await visitors. The Club Nàutic (www.nauticescala.com) offers a full service with its own shipyard and has over 1000 berths for permanent residents and guests. The Charter offer ranges from RIBs to day cruisers.
L'Estartit
Former fishing village and now a tourist resort, L'Estartit has a modern marina and a long sandy beach. The offshore Medas Islands are a nature reserve and a highlight for scuba divers. The Club Nàutic is an ADAC base and offers a full service for visitors. Trailer boats are also welcome. Charter boats between four and eight metres, including a classic Llaüt, are on offer.
Nautical info
General information In summer, moorings are scarce and expensive. The early and late season is much cheaper. The buoys are free of charge from 16 September to 14 June. At the ADAC information on marinas and bays with detailed videos and information is available. There is a wide range of campsites, flats and hotel facilities.
Charter On the Costa Brava, there are also local charter offers in almost every town with a marina. On the supra-regional Website from Nautal, some can also be booked directly. Argos Yacht Charter arranges a Beneteau Monte Carlo 37 from Roses.
Weather Depending on the weather conditions, very dangerous currents lurk on the rugged shores, for example from the Gulf of Lion in the north. Good maps and precise knowledge of weather developments are essential. Information is provided by El Tiempo or the free Eltiempo.es+ app. Wind and wave charts with forecasts show the trend.
You can find the district portrait in the February issue 2019 from BOOTE.
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