While the white cliffs of Dover, the English coastal towns of Brighton, Portsmouth and Southampton and the Jurassic Coast to the west of them are very well known, the Alabaster Coast on the French side of the English Channel, just 50 to 100 nautical miles to the south, leads a more tranquil existence.
Only a few people are familiar with harbours such as Le Tréport or Fécamp. However, there are more similarities than differences: the two coastlines share the harsh Atlantic climate, the huge tidal range, the white cliffs along the coast and much more.
But things are quieter on the northern shores of Normandy. But there is something for every taste here too. Those looking for big city flair will find it in Le Havre. This is also where the Seine, the largest river, flows into the English Channel. The area can therefore be reached on its own keel via Paris (BOOTE 2/2020). In contrast, Saint-Valery-en-Caux offers a more village-like harbour idyll and the tourist stronghold of Dieppe is more hustle and bustle.
Need more information? The portrait of the Alabaster Coast with many photos, service information and a detailed map can be found in BOOTE issue 9/2020 ( available here ).
A stay in the region is therefore never boring, as the harbour towns all have their own character. Seafood lovers will enjoy their stay in the region, as local fishermen are at work everywhere and the daily catch can still be bought quite cheaply at the ubiquitous markets or directly from the cutter. You are more likely to find a wide range of culinary delights in the more touristy towns. There is less choice in the quieter small towns.
LE HAVRE
Its location on the Atlantic coast and at the mouth of the Seine, which provides a navigable connection to the capital, was the decisive factor in the founding of Le Havre as a war harbour in 1517. The city later became the home port of the French West India Company. Trade in colonial goods and slaves flourished. However, there are no historic walls in Le Havre, as the city was completely rebuilt after its total destruction in the Second World War.
Today, it is home to the country's second largest seaport and the cityscape is a mixture of functional post-war architecture with modern highlights, embedded in dominant harbour basins. In the middle of it all is a lively centre with a large selection of bars and restaurants that stand out for their variety rather than their culinary delights.
Art lovers can visit the Musée d'Art Moderne André Malraux. Fans of modern architecture will enjoy the city centre, which was built according to plans by Auguste Perret and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Maison de la Culture du Havre, designed by Oscar Niemeyer, is also located in the centre.
The numerous harbour facilities include the Port du Havre Plaisance ( www.lehavreplaisance.com ) on Boulevard Clemenceau with 1150 berths for yachts up to 18 metres. It is possible to launch via the slipway, a crane up to 4 tonnes or a travel lift up to 30 tonnes. A water filling station and car parks are available. A tidal range of up to 7.2 metres and a current of up to 3 knots must be expected here. The new marina in the heart of the city is called Port Vauban and is under the same management.
FÉCAMP
The history of the harbour town begins with the founding of a monastery in the 7th century, which the Vikings put an end to around 200 years later. Reconstruction began in 990. Today's Sainte-Trinité abbey church has Romanesque to early Gothic origins and was built between 1170 and 1220. The Palais Bénédictine is also worth a visit. Built in the 19th century, the headquarters of the liqueur factory of the same name also contains an art collection. A tour to explore it is well worthwhile. Cosy restaurants can be found in the centre.
The harbour of Fécamp ( www.portdefecamp.fr ), which is used for merchant ships, fishing boats and as a marina. The fishing museum is well worth a visit here. In the Avant Port de Fécamp, the front part of the harbour, there are 510 berths up to 40 m, 75 of which are for visitors. If you want to stay longer, you can ask for a berth in the Bassin Bérigny behind the lock with 230 places. Watering via a ramp or a travel lift up to 20 tonnes is also possible, as is the supply of fuel. Parking facilities for towing vehicles and trailers are available.
SAINT-VALERY-EN-CAUX
If you are looking for peace and quiet, this is the place for you. The pretty village, which is mentioned as early as 990 as the property of the Benedictine abbey of Fécamp, is easy to explore on a walk. The old half-timbered house Maison Henri IV was built in the 16th century by a wealthy shipowner. Today, the listed building houses a museum. The gastronomy is concentrated around the harbour basin, which is a central part of the village.
The outer part of the Port de Plaisance Saint-Valery-en-Caux ( www.saintvaleryencaux.fr/port-de-plaisance ) falls dry. There are 560 berths for boats up to 22 metres in length on the jetties in the inner harbour behind the lock. Sanitary facilities and two cranes of five and 16 tonnes are also available. The harbour does not have its own website and the harbour master's office is not permanently manned. Contact can be made via port@cote-albatre.com. The Club Nautique Valeriquais located in the harbour ( www.cnvaleriquais.fr ).
DIEPPE
The original natural harbour was settled from 900 and destroyed in the 12th and 17th centuries. The last reconstruction in the Baroque style is still clearly recognisable today. Just like its transformation into the first French seaside resort modelled on the English style in the 19th century, which attracted many visitors thanks to the new rail link to Paris. Dieppe is a tourist stronghold. Gastronomy is omnipresent. Fish soup is a speciality.
The castle, which dates back to the 12th century, is well worth a visit. The present-day complex with the city museum and a collection of paintings was built from the remains in 1435. The Gothic Saint-Jacques Cathedral and the Cité de la Mer museum ( www.estrancitedelamer.fr ) with aquariums and a marine exhibition.
The Port de Plaisance ( www.portdedieppe.fr ) has 410 seats in the front pool, 50 of which are for visitors. Maximum length 160 metres. The Capitanerie with sanitary facilities is in the south-west. Despite a tidal range of up to 9 m at spring tide, the front part of the harbour does not usually dry out and can be navigated even at low tide, at least by motorboats with a shallow draught. If you want to stay longer, you can ask for a berth in one of the basins behind the lock with a total of 120 berths. Arrivals and departures must be announced on VHF (12), moorings on VHF (9).
LE TRÉPORT
The small town, which has existed since at least the 11th century, lies at the mouth of the Bresle. Stairs and a cog railway lead up to the cliffs, from where you can enjoy a spectacular view of the alabaster coast. The town thrives on tourism and is therefore adorned by a large number of fish restaurants, particularly on the promenade. Specialities: Herring, seafood and omelettes. A fish market as well as a casino - which is standard in the region - complete the offer.
Port Le Tréport is under state administration and is a mixed harbour for commercial and leisure shipping. There are 95 berths up to 28 metres, ten of which are for visitors. There are also buoys in the outer harbour, which is dry. Showers and toilets are available. The harbour does not have a website. Contact the harbour master: ddtm-dml-capt@seine-maritime.gouv.fr. or VHF (12). Information also available from the Yacht Club du Tréport ( www.facebook.com/Yacht.Club.Du.Treport ).
