TerritoryMetz / France - Golden splendour

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 · 29.09.2019

Territory: Metz / France - Golden splendourPhoto: Dieter Wanke
We explore the city of Metz, which is crossed by several branches of the Moselle and whose façades gleam golden thanks to the region's Jaumont sandstone
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Photo: Dieter Wanke

Recreational boaters based in the south-west of Germany will be familiar with the "Sauerkraut Tour" in the border triangle with Luxembourg and France.
with Luxembourg and France. It covers around 750 kilometres of the Rhine, Moselle and Rhine-Marne Canal.

In addition to other French highlights along the route, such as Strasbourg or the Saint-Louis/Arzviller boat lift, which we presented in BOOTE 01/2018 and 02/2017, this time we explore the city of Metz, which is crossed by several branches of the Moselle and whose facades gleam golden thanks to the region's Jaumont sandstone.

A stay of several days is worthwhile, as there is so much on offer. If you don't want to do a round trip, you can limit yourself to partial stages. Shorter versions across the Saar Canal - also known as the "Little Sauerkraut Tour" - are popular. Charter companies in the region offer cruise suggestions that include Metz as a destination.

If you want to launch your trailer boat, head for the Port de Mazerolle in the town centre. There are moorings for guests in the Port de Plaisance right in the centre. A water ski course, which is also used by the local Ski Nautique Club de Metz, should appeal to board sports enthusiasts who, in addition to having fun on the water, may also want to enjoy the city's wonderful ambience on a long weekend.

The various historical epochs still characterise the architectural flair of the Lorraine metropolis today. The beginnings of colonisation date back 5000 years. The Celts arrived 3000 years ago, followed by Roman conquerors.

Divodurum Mediomatricorum, as it was known at the time, became one of the largest settlements in Gaul due to its location at a crossroads of important trade routes and had more inhabitants than Paris. Many rulers came and went, which characterises the architectural structure to this day. A multitude of churches with the outstanding cathedral show the influences of the powerful religions.

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During the period of German rule in the imperial monarchy between 1871 and 1918, Metz was developed into the strongest fortified city. Buildings constructed at that time, such as the new railway station, the post office and the Temple Neuf, are striking contemporary witnesses. There are therefore many historical traces to follow. The best shopping opportunities and the omnipresent gastronomy provide a welcome change of pace.

Saint-Étienne Cathedral
Construction of the current Gothic-style church began in 1220 and the building made of Jaumont stone was completed around 300 years later. Metz has been a bishop's see since the third century. This was later followed by a Romanesque basilica, which served as the basis for today's church. Remarkable is the large window area of around 6500 square metres, where stained glass by many artists, such as Marc Chagall, is installed. This is why Metz Cathedral is also known as "the lantern of God".

Marché Couvert
A visit to the market halls is a must in Metz. From fresh fish and seafood to cheese and vegetables, the stalls offer everything that is part of good French cuisine. There are also several bistros where you can treat yourself to a snack or a drink.

Old Town
Today, the historic centre is essentially a pedestrian zone with well-kept medieval buildings. Most of them are located around Rue Taison, above which hovers a large sculpture of the dragon Graoully - a legendary figure that is said to have wreaked havoc in the ruins of the Roman amphitheatre - which probably also influenced the naming of the street. Just a few steps away is the Place Saint-Jacques, originally a market square, which today attracts many tourists with its huge range of restaurants and cafés. In the Middle Ages, money changers lived on Place Saint-Louis, which was built from the 13th century onwards. There were 60 bureaux de change in the arcaded houses. Many of the buildings still retain their original character and are now mostly used as restaurants. In summer, there are numerous street cafés and beer gardens here. At the Porte des Allemandes, there are remarkable remains of the town fortifications from the 13th and 15th centuries.

Port de Plaisance de Metz
The marina is located right in the heart of the city with a view of the Moselle bridges and the city centre. Pontoons A, D and E and the fixed jetty are reserved for guests. There are green meadows on the banks, which are often used as sunbathing areas by sun-seekers in summer. The old town centre of Metz is just a few minutes' walk away.

Les Îles
The district is located to the north of the city centre on the islands between the arms of the Moselle directly in front of the harbour. The most striking building is the Protestant city church Temple Neuf, built under the influence of the German monarchy. The opera house on Place de la Comédie follows directly behind.

Parc République
The park starts at the floating docks and is just a few steps away on foot. The Arsenal and the oldest church in France, the Gallo-Roman basilica of Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains from the 4th century, are located in the neighbourhood. Both buildings are now used as exhibition and concert halls. Shopping centres and the pedestrian zone are also adjacent to the green spaces.

Imperial Quarter
The villas and commercial buildings built from 1903 in the German period are located on Avenue Foch and extend as far as the new railway station with its striking architecture. The area is characterised by the neo-Romanesque architectural style favoured by Kaiser Wilhelm II.

Centre Pompidou-Metz
The new centre for contemporary art with constantly changing exhibitions was built in 2010. The eye-catching architecture with a translucent plastic roof on a wooden structure was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban and his French colleague Jean de Gastines.

You can read the full district report in the September issue 2018 from BOOTE. Or you can download the PDF below.

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