As with many waterways in Europe, the heyday of the Rhine-Marne Canal, which opened in 1853, was in a bygone era. Until the completion of the canalised Moselle in 1979, at
315 kilometres, it was the longest canal in France.
A total of 154 locks and other canals create connections to Champagne and Burgundy as well as to the Moselle, Saar and Rhine. Today, the now
293 kilometres of waterways is now only used for tourism.
The large number of locks that were too small meant the end of modern goods transport, but water tourism is booming.
Most of the highlights can be explored by boat over short distances in just a few days. The hydraulic engineering highlights of the route we travelled include two ship tunnels and an unusual hoist that transports the boats to the other level by means of an inclined lift.
A technology that was used for the first time with this structure and only exists once more in Europe in the form of the Ronquières boat lift on the Charleroi-Brussels Canal. In the short journey time between Hesse and Saverne, there are many spectacular things to discover.
Le Boat's base, where a new Horizon is waiting for us, is located in the small village of Hesse at canal kilometre 241.
If you want to stock up on food for the trip, you should do so in one of the supermarkets in nearby Sarrebourg. But the villages on the banks also offer the opportunity to do so. When we take over our boat in the late afternoon, we don't have much time for a big blow. However, the four kilometres to Niderviller are quickly mastered. We moor in the harbour basin of the Kuhnle-Tours base.
The centre of the village of 1200 souls is just a kilometre's walk away, but the choice of restaurants is meagre. In addition to the "Auberge Tannenheim" with regional cuisine right by the harbour, the excellent "Restaurant M" ( www.restaurant-m-niderviller.com ) to guests.
It is located right next to the traditional porcelain and earthenware factory Faïencerie de Niderviller, which was founded in 1735 and is known far beyond the borders of France. A museum, the traditional workshops and the listed factory building can be visited. Ceramic art is still produced here today.
The next morning, after just two bends in the waterway, we reach the entrance to the 475 metre long Niderviller tunnel. The traffic lights show green and we can pass straight through. It is pitch dark, with only the occasional lamp lighting up the walls. The charter boats are actually fitted with headlights, but our Horizon still lacks them. But it works just as well. However, maximum concentration is required.
Tracks can be seen along the old towpaths, because after horses and donkeys had served their time, the barges were towed through the canal by small electric locomotives. As soon as you return to daylight, the entrance to the 2.3 kilometre long Arzviller tunnel follows behind the next bend. The tunnel of the Paris-Strasbourg railway line runs parallel to this. The traffic lights change to green as we approach.
However, the tunnel lighting has failed in several places. We reduce the speed because it's really narrow and we can see almost nothing. A powerful torch works wonders. But the journey through the tunnel drags on. Without a doubt a unique experience with a very special atmosphere. After twenty long minutes, we finally reach the exit.
A good three kilometres further along the canal, the next attraction is already waiting for us: the Saint-Louis/Arzviller lift (www.plan-incline.com/de). A traffic jam is normal here, so we first have to moor in the waiting area. A shore leave to explore the facility should definitely be planned. Guided tours are also possible. Transporting the boats in the more than 40 metre long trough over an inclined plane with a 41 degree gradient and a height difference of almost 45 metres is a special kind of "nautical experience".
The spectacle should first be viewed from the viewing platforms. Counterweights pull the basin up or down in just four minutes, so that only minimal assistance from two 120 hp electric motors is required. Since 1969, the inclined lift has replaced the dreaded Arzviller lock stairs with 17 chambers over just four kilometres of canal. At that time, it took a whole day to pass.
If you have time, you can moor up in the valley basin afterwards and spend the night. For dinner, the "Brasserie des Éclusiers" in Henridorff, just 750 metres away.
Now the lock work begins: four automatic barrages still have to be passed before the next stop in Lutzelbourg is reached. After the third lock, you can moor at the Locaboat base for a fee (if space is available). From here, there is a marvellous view of the ruins of the medieval castle. However, mooring is more central and free of charge on the left bank directly in the village. Electricity and water are paid for at a coin-operated machine.
In the evening, we head to the well-attended "Bierstub d'Eselbahn" in the village. The name is reminiscent of the long since demolished narrow-gauge railway, which got its nickname because it was as slow as a ride on a beast of burden. Unfortunately, it is too late to climb up to the castle in our case.
The following day, we have another nine locks to master before we enter the large marina of Saverne in the early afternoon. The town has a long history and has existed since Roman times, when it was a military station known as "Tres Tabernae" (Three Taverns), which is also still remembered in its current name. There is hardly a better place to moor than in the marina in the large basin of the Rhine-Marne Canal with a view of the façade of the Rohan Castle.
Built between 1780 and 1790, the building was intended to serve as the seat of the prince-bishops of Strasbourg. However, before the interior work was completed, the French Revolution put paid to the prelate's plans. After a long period of vacancy, the building only became the city museum in 1858. Today it houses art and archaeological collections.
The town centre is just a few minutes away from the harbour. In the pedestrian zone, visitors can expect historic half-timbered architecture from the 16th and 17th centuries as well as a rich gastronomic offer, ranging from the typical wine bar "Taverne du Katz" in the city's most famous half-timbered house to the starred restaurant in the "La Staeffele" is enough. Unless, like us, you come on a Monday, when most restaurants are closed.
The next day, the weather is awful. But we only have the return journey to do. We decide to drive the 28 kilometres back to Hesse, as the boat has to be handed in at 9am. Despite the many locks and the waiting times at the boat lift, it's easy to manage. Fortunately, we have the option of switching to the lower steering position on the Horizon. In the comfortable, well-heated saloon, the journey is still fun even in the constant rain - and in the two tunnels it is dry anyway.
tunnels are dry anyway ...
