Nature gave it beauty, history gave it a soul. It was impetuous and yet at your service, it divided and connected: the Eider. Today it meanders good-naturedly through the north of Germany. Via the Gieselau Canal, it is connected to the world's busiest artificial sea route, the Kiel Canal. We went in search of traces. Our companion: charter boat "Charisma".
Untereider, Obereider, Binneneider, Tideeider, Außeneider - the Eiderstrom seems difficult to grasp. Its length too: some give it a length of around 200 kilometres from its source to its mouth, others just over a hundred. The source is in the district of Plön, maybe there are two or more, who knows. The Eider would happily flow into the nearby Baltic Sea if it weren't for a 40 metre high terminal moraine, the Hornheimer Riegel. All right, then towards the North Sea.
You could feel the ebb and flow as far as Rendsburg
The Eider used to meet the harbingers of the sea near Rendsburg, the ebb and flow of the tide. In their rhythm, it travelled to the sea, called the "Lower Eider". Nowadays, the Kiel Canal (NOK) enters its bed at Flemhude. In Rendsburg, the two go their separate ways again - he departs as the NOK, she begins a new life, fed by other sources (Ei-km 0). At the confluence with the Gieselau Canal (Ei-km 23), the "Obereider" then becomes the "Binneneider". The river is now also a federal waterway.
The Eider, which is still tide-free, is labelled "Binneneider" until the Nordfeld lock (Ei-km 78). This is where the rhythm changes: the tide begins to ebb and flow and the waterway becomes a "tidal Eider". The Eider federal waterway ends at the Eider barrage (Ei-km 110). Beyond this, the so-called "Außeneider" runs for 20 nautical miles through the mudflats as far as the Eider buoy.
We pick up our charter boat in Wrohm, Lexfähre (Ei-km 26). It is about 3 km to the Gieselau Canal. The Nordfeld lock is around 52 kilometres away. Our plan: First we want to go downstream. Then we want to go back and up to Rendsburg - preferably via the Obereider. Jens Edler, our charter company owner, shakes his head: "You won't get through there." Above the confluence with the Gieselau Canal (Ei-km 23), there is no longer an official fairway.
On the section to Rendsburg, the minimum water depth is a modest 30-40 cm in many places. "Only navigable for kayaks," confirms the responsible WSA Tönning. With our "Charisma", we therefore have to take the Gieselau Canal and the NOK to get from the Eider to Rendsburg. Across the NOK, side by side with the really big boats? That's something. But first we want to travel down the Eider and get a taste of the North Sea.
Get a taste of the North Sea
The "Charisma" slowly pushes out of her box at the Yacht-Club-Eider Lexfähre. The harbour, beautifully situated in an old arm of the Eider, is a good address, as is the inn "Zum alten Fährhaus", which is about ten minutes' walk away (shopping facilities about 4 km). After casting off, the Lexfähre lock awaits us, or rather: it doesn't - double red.
We give a sound signal. "You must be on the phone!" someone shouts from ashore. We would, but our mobile phones go dead. And now? After what feels like an eternity, a small bar appears on a mobile phone display, delicate and trembling - we have a network and can register with the lock keeper. He responds immediately. But the network weakness stays with us for quite a while.
Between green banks, we follow the fairway, which is marked with poles and buoys where necessary. It doesn't get really narrow anywhere. The Eider is a wide waterway and, according to the map, at least 3 metres deep in the Lexfähre-Nordfeld area at normal water levels. We take river bend after river bend, pass fields of water lilies, hear curlews and redshanks. Sunlight dances on the water, making it sparkle and glisten. How cheerful it is to cycle here.
From Vikings to sports boat skippers
The Eider has become irrelevant for freighters, but not for pleasure boaters. If you want to get out on the water after work, you don't have to look far for dreamy spots. And for touring skippers, the Eider is part of an atmospheric route between the North and Baltic Seas: through the lock at the Eider barrage, then via the Eider, Gieselau Canal and NOK to Kiel-Holtenau. The Norwegian coming towards us with his sailing yacht will take this route.
His ancestors, the Vikings, had a much more difficult time of it. They steered their ships inland via the still unbridled
inland via the still unbridled Eider, then took the Treene tributary as long as there was enough water under the keel. Finally, they manoeuvred their ships almost 20 km over land to the then trading metropolis of Haithabu on the Schlei near present-day Schleswig. A tough job, but much better than the only alternative at the time, the Skagerrak.
At kilometre 34 we discover an island surrounded by an oxbow lake. We will visit this idyllic spot, equipped with two mooring facilities, on the way back. Just 2 km further on, still above the mouth of the Sorge, the Hohner Fähre water sports club and the Lührs Hohner Fähre water sports club maintain their harbours. Practical: close by is an attractive restaurant with a terrace and a view of the water, the "Hohner Fähre".
Mooring in Pahlen and Delve
We are accompanied by canoeists, for whom the area is also ideal. Anglers wait in their boats near the shore, the Eider is full of perch and zander. Some have even landed pike as heavy as French bulldogs. And again and again we see attractive moorings. The bascule bridge at Pahlen (Ei-km 46, clearance height closed 3.50 m at MW) does not have to be opened for us.
The village is well laid out, but has all the facilities for a rest stop - moorings, catering, small shops. At Ei-km 50, we come to the Erfde/Bargen marina (restaurant nearby, supply options approx. 3 km). The jetty is well maintained and borders on a bathing area. The authorities gave it a "very good" water quality rating in 2013. There are always small beaches like this.
Silence envelops us in the medieval St Mary's Church in Delve (Ei-km 52). Legend has it that a horse, which was given an image of the Virgin Mary and then sent off, led the way to the building site. In the semi-darkness of the church, we spot three votive ships, evidence of a past that we would not have expected here: Delve, almost 60 kilometres from the coast, was once an important port of call for sea and merchant shipping.
From the Eider Canal to the Kaiser Wilhelm Canal
The rise began in 1784 with the inauguration of the Eider Canal, which led from Rendsburg to Kiel. For the first time, the North Sea and Baltic Sea were connected by a reasonably comfortable waterway system. The challenging passage through the Skagerrak was a thing of the past, as was the arduous overland transport as in Viking times. In 1889, 16 seagoing vessels were registered with Delve as their home port. A number of residents had a licence for long voyages.
An even more profitable waterway, built between the mouth of the Elbe and Kiel Fjord, ended Delve's success story in 1895: the Kaiser Wilhelm Canal (later NOK). Delve's boat moorings are located next to a campsite with a restaurant, shop and swimming pool. There is also a café just a few steps away (other amenities are around 1 km away).
Below Delve, the Eider appears wider. Dykes increasingly come into view. At a bend in the river, the echo sounder signals 16 metres of water under the keel for a moment. The NABU nature reserve "Delver Koog" stretches out on our port side, then, in a wide bend, we reach our next stop: Süderstapel (Ei-km 61).
Süderstapel on the Eiderschleife
Guests can choose between two proper moorings, at Eidercamping and in the municipal harbour. The latter will be our accommodation for the night. In Süderstapel, you can stop for a bite to eat and go shopping, as well as sunbathe and swim - the local beach was also certified as having "very good" water quality in 2013. We come across beautifully restored buildings, gnarled trees and a fortified church from the 12th century, St Katharinen. The "Eiderschleife" inn (Chinese restaurant and café) is elevated on the shore and offers a marvellous view.
Another 17 kilometres of river before the Eider reaches Nordfeld. Beyond the lock, its character will change completely, as it is now accompanied by low and high tide. On its way to the sea, the "Tideeider" encounters two gems: Friedrichstadt (Ei-km 84) and Tönning (Ei-km 99). Both places are at the top of our "wish list".
Friedrichstadt and Tönning remain favourite destinations
Friedrichstadt on the Treene estuary was built at the beginning of the 17th century by Dutch religious refugees. The new arrivals laid out canals and built their houses in the Dutch style. However, they shaped the town not only with shovels and mortar, but also with what religious freedom usually brings: Tolerance. Thanks to a lock, Friedrichstadt is tide-free, as is the Old Harbour, where you can moor close to the town centre.
The tides still go in and out of Tönning harbour. However, guests can watch the action from the comfort of a floating jetty. In 2013, the picturesque harbour of Tönning has existed for exactly 400 years. What a coincidence that this anniversary should coincide with it: 40 years of the Eider barrage. The colossus lies 11 kilometres southwest of Tönning. The water flow can be regulated via five openings, each 40 metres wide. In the event of a storm surge, the openings are closed and the land behind them is safe. A lock is available for shipping traffic between the Eider and the North Sea - and this is exactly where our tour should take us.
Nordfeld lock as a turning point
However, a stormy depression has robbed us of sailing days that are now missing. In Süderstapel we have to make a new plan: "Tideeider" or Rendsburg, there's not enough time for both - unless we hurry and miss out on one or two interesting detours. We decide in favour of Rendsburg. The NOK also has "sea bears" to offer.
Before we head back, we stop by the Nordfeld lock, which marks the end of the "Binneneider". The chain of mooring options continues, with the Lunden Water Sports Club (Ei-km 78) already offering a view of the lock. A good idea: from here, cycle over to Friedrichstadt (approx. 7 km).
But now to the mountain. The island at Ei kilometre 34 had already impressed us on the outward journey. Above the cosy island, the Tileburg Water Friends maintain a neat jetty (without sanitary facilities). We are, admittedly, only green. But in such a pleasant way that the pub and discounter become a minor matter.
Across the Gieselau Canal to the NOK
The next morning we change above the Lexfähre lock to the approximately 3 km long Gieselau Canal, which leads to the Kiel Canal. At the Gieselau lock, we have to pay our navigation fee for a section of the NOK: 7 euros (pleasure craft up to 10 metres in length). The lock chamber opens and soon there are less than a thousand metres to go. All at once, a ship's side as high as a house passes right in front - a seagoing vessel. This is exactly the kind of drama that people on the NOK expect. But actually, the sight of ocean liners is almost the only thrill on the canal.
We are there from NOK-km 40.7. In a moment we have to give way: The ferry from Oldenbüttel wants to pass. Such trajectories cross the canal at a total of 14 points. Encounters with the ferries travelling back and forth at a brisk pace are generally relaxed. Things are livelier where two ferries shuttle back and forth - in our case at the Nobiskrug ferry point in Rendsburg. At the famous floating ferry under the Rendsburg railway bridge
The only "danger" lurks at the famous floating ferry under the Rendsburg railway bridge: you look out your eyes when the one hundred year old "Iron Lady" sets sail and glides gently across the canal at a height of around three metres.
On the road with big pots
But we're not there yet. It's a good 25 kilometres from the mouth of the Gieselau Canal into the NOK to Rendsburg. The "Charisma" doesn't quite reach the permitted 15 km/h, so we will need about two and a half hours travelling time. Freighters pass by again and again, and we soon get used to the unusual rendezvous. In 2012, an average of 95 ships a day travelled the 98.7 km stretch between Brunsbüttel and Kiel-Holtenau, not counting pleasure craft.
At the time, it seemed impossible that the canal would one day make such a career for Spökenkiekern: during the first cut of the spade in 1887, the tool in question was broken in two, which fuelled gloomy forebodings. Fortunately, however, a replacement spade was at hand, reports the WSA Kiel-Holtenau. In the end, everything went well. In 1895, the new waterway replaced the old Eider Canal and went online as the "Kaiser Wilhelm Canal".
In 1948, the waterway was given the name "Kiel Canal". Internationally, it is known as the "Kiel Canal". For a waterway of such high standing, the NOK has remained quite pleasant. However, a farmstead we see on the bank no longer relies on cattle and rye; the owner has something better. His barn is packed to the rafters with holiday flats, each with a view of the canal. There they sit on their terraces, the people from the NOK.
Hunting ships with a telephoto lens
Soon we notice them everywhere. Old, young, individually, in groups. They mentally hitch up with each passing ship and set off, free and clear, on an imaginary journey to the other side of the world. For some, a glance through binoculars is enough. Others have pulled out cameras with super-telephoto lenses - the SD card as a memory of longing.
The gentle giant that has just overtaken us stops. We are at NOK-km 57 and experience another spectacle: points. These are the places where the really big freighters can meet. There are twelve of these sidings in total, with the one at Schülp now in front of us. The captains handle the manoeuvre with aplomb. They all know their trade on the NOK, which is probably why we find navigating this waterway so pleasant.
At NOK km 62.7 we reach 19,000 tonnes of riveted steel: the Rendsburg railway bridge with floating ferry. Right next to it, on the left bank, is the "Ships Welcome Point". We leave the canal at NOK km 66.1 and turn into the Obereiderenge, which ends in the Obereidersee after about 3 kilometres. There we moor at the Rendsburg Regatta Club. This excellent facility (with catering) is located close to the town centre and is therefore connected to all amenities.
"Border town" Rendsburg at the end
It's fun to stroll through Rendsburg's cosy old town. We chat about the weather at the bakery and the shop assistant whispers: "They've predicted tornadoes!" Immediately afterwards, she looks embarrassed: "But you're not tourists now?" We are, but Rendsburg really can't help Peter's capers. We continue our stroll through the town, which was once a fortress. For many centuries, the Eider also served as a national border between the Danes and the Germans.
The road we are now standing on is called "An der Schleuse". This is where the Upper Eider once met the tidal Lower Eider. Today, the flow is interrupted at this point. But how can the Eider, cut off from its upper course, still continue to flow towards the North Sea? Because the lowlands around it supply it with fresh water, allowing it to be created a second time, so to speak. A phenomenon that continues to amaze us for a long time on our return journey to Lexfähre the following day.
Incidentally, there were no tornadoes, just a heavy downpour.
TERRITORY INFORMATION
Charter
You can feel it straight away Boat hire Jens Edler are all there with expertise and passion. "We started out in 2009 as a small family business with the 'Cormoran'," explains Jens Edler, "and over time the other boats were added." In addition to the "Cormoran" (8.25 x 2.85 m, 36 hp diesel) and "Captiva" (10 x 3.45 m, 54 hp diesel), the "Charisma" is also in the programme - we went on tour with her. Info: Jens Edler boat hire, Lexfähre 2, 25799 Wrohm, Tel. 04802-606.
The boat
This summer was the first charter season for the "Charisma" (built in 2012). The Passion 880 steel yacht is ideal for two people. There are two fixed berths in the forward cabin (1 x double bed, 1 x single bed possible). Amidships there is a seating area and a generously sized galley with fridge, gas cooker and sink. The sanitary area (WC, shower, washbasin) is also sufficiently large. There is a cosy seating area in the cockpit. The equipment includes bow thruster, chart plotter, 220 V converter, hot water, heating, TV, radio with USB/SD MP3 player. Charter price per week: 745 Euro-995 Euro depending on the season. Diesel, gas and oil consumption: 7 Euro/hour. Final cleaning: 60 euros. Deposit: 500 euros. All information as of 2013. Further details from the company. Technical data: Length 8.80 m, width 3.00 m, draught 0.75 m, 1 x 62 hp Solé diesel.
Driving licence
The SBF See was required to operate our charter boat, as the Seeschifffahrtsstraßen-Ordnung applies on the Eider, Gieselau Canal and NOK.
Maximum speed
Ei-km 22.6 to Friedrichstadt railway bridge: 15 km/h, Gieselau Canal: 10 km/h, Kiel Canal: 15 km/h
Bridges and locks
The bridges on the route we travelled are all movable except for the Rendsburg railway bridge (42 m). The use of the Gieselau, Lexfähre and Nordfeld locks is subject to a fee. Operating times and information: WSA Tönning
Harbours
The harbours we visited generally had the usual level of comfort. We paid between 5 and 13 euros per night. There are other moorings in addition to those mentioned. For details on the infrastructure, see the cruise literature.
Tide eider
The tide is constantly changing due to the tides. In case of doubt, the fairway markings should be given priority over the nautical chart. The designated fairway should not be
be left. Caution is advised at the approach to the Friedrichstadt lock: The pricks there and the red spar buoy indicate the fairway of the Eider and not the approach to the lock.
Kiel Canal
Recreational craft may only be used on the NOK in clear weather and at set times during the day (e.g. 1 June to 15 July: 2.30 am to 2 pm). Certain light signals at access points and switch areas must be observed. The right-hand traffic rule applies (observe minimum distances from the shore). Pleasure craft may only moor at special moorings. All regulations relevant to recreational boating are summarised in a leaflet, which is also available to download from the WSA Kiel.
Cruise literature
