With the water running out, we head towards the city centre of Hamburg. In front of us are the mighty bridges of the Norderelbe. Behind the characteristic arches of the fish-bellied girders, the skyline of Hamburg becomes visible. First the long-term construction site of the Elbphilharmonie concert hall on the left, St. Nikolai and St. Katharinen on the right bank and in the middle, just as it should be, the "Michel". After all, the baroque church is the true landmark of the Hanseatic city and need not fear competition from the Elbphilharmonie for the time being.
As soon as we pass the Elbe bridges, the previously calm Norderelbe begins to churn. The waves caused by shipping, which until then had found an outlet on a natural bank, now break on quay walls and are reflected in many places. This will remain the case on the Norderelbe in the area of the Port of Hamburg for the next ten kilometres or so of the river and will become quite unpleasant when approaching launches, tugs, pilots and ferries. I don't want to dramatise this, but choppy water a good metre high is not everyone's cup of tea.
This also applies to the moorings in the City Sports Harbour Hamburg (Elbe km 622.5 RU), which rewards the constant rocking with such an exceptional city location that even the weakest stomachs can't help but moor here for a few nights. Because there's no better place to discover Hamburg than from here: the underground is right on the doorstep, at the foot of the Elbphilharmonie concert hall and the adjacent harbour city.
The "Portuguese Quarter" begins just behind the railway tracks and stretches from the Landungsbrücken to the Michel. Hamburg is close enough to touch, even if the restaurants here are called "Sagres", "Galego" or "Benfica". After all, you are right next to a lightship built in 1952 (now a bar, restaurant and hotel) and within sight of the "Rickmer Rickmers" and the "Cap San Diego".
With so much maritime flair comes a little swell! The water depth in the marina is at least 2.50 metres at NW. There is water and electricity at the floating jetties with side jetties, and showers and toilets are located in the floating container. There is no technical service, but there are boat chandlers at the nearby Rödingsmarkt and two bunker boats just below the City Sporthafen, which also refuel sports boats with diesel.
Away from the city centre, into a completely different Hamburg: opposite the sports harbour, a branch of the Elbe flows into the Norderelbe: the Reiherstieg. It branches off from the Süderelbe at Elbe km 615.8 (opposite the Harburg inland port), cuts through the western part of the Elbe island of Wilhelmsburg and flows into the Norderelbe after seven kilometres at Elbe km 615.00.
The tidal current in the Reiherstieg is low, and as it can also be navigated at low tide (min. WT at NW 2.1 m), the tide does not play a role when navigating. However, we have something special in mind and therefore have to take into account the operating times of the Ernst August Lock as well as the draught of the Ernst August Canal and its clearance height (see info box). We can only enter the Ernst August Canal and the adjoining Wilhemsburg Dove Elbe via this lock.
Don't you know it? Never mind, 90 per cent of Hamburgers wouldn't know any different! Malte H. from Hamburg writes on yelp.de: "It's inconceivable that this corner has not yet been taken over by the hustle and bustle of Hamburg's relaxation-hungry residents. The ignorance about this place and the [bad] image of the place name Wilhelmsburg probably protects this oasis. For now." That could hardly be said more aptly.
Just before we turn off the Ellerholzbrücke bridge from the Reiherstieg to port towards the Klütjenfelder and Spree harbours in the direction of Ernst-August-Schleuse, we start to wonder: a golden calf stands on an unused bridge pier between the Reiherdamm and Ellerholzbrücke bridges. It was modelled and erected by the artist Elisabeth Richnow. A quote from Christian mythology against the false worship of wealth and power. However, Hamburg's pepper sacks, who are actually concerned, should rarely pass by here.
The Ernst-August-Schleuse is brand new - built especially for the International Garden Show in Wilhelmsburg in 2013. This show brought little to the district, but the city of Hamburg lost around 40 million euros.
Around 2 kilometres above the lock, under a railway bridge, the narrow trough of the Ernst August Canal merges into the Wilhelmsburg Dove Elbe. Our destination is immediately to the right: the jetty of the Motor-Yacht-Club Dove-Elbe-Wilhelmsburg nestled in the splendid sea of flowers of the neighbouring allotment gardens. What an idyll! The much-maligned Wilhelmsburg shows its most beautiful side here. The club offers water and electricity at the jetty, shower and WC in the clubhouse.
Wilhelmsburg is not only the largest of all the Elbe islands, but also the largest inland island in Germany and the largest district of Hamburg in terms of area. Of the more than 50,000 inhabitants, more than 50 per cent have a migrant background. And that is what makes this neighbourhood so exotic. Anyone who has seen the film "Soul Kitchen" (the Soul Kitchen Hall is located in Wilhelmsburg - but its future is uncertain) knows what we are talking about. It is just under 2 km from the harbour to Stübenplatz, the centre of Wilhelmsburg, via Vogelhüttendeich.
As the Wilhelmsburg Dove Elbe is a dead end, we return to the Reiherstieg. We head south towards the Süderelbe, which we reach via the Reiherstieg lock, a current lock that has no lift but only influences the current and bottom conditions in the harbour. Mooring is not necessary during the "lockage", because as soon as the entrance gate is closed, the exit gate opens.
A short distance eastwards on the Süderelbe (the tidal current sets in here again!), then the entrance to the Harburg harbour lock is on starboard.
It takes us into the Harburg inland harbour, on the north bank of which is the harbour facility of the Harburg Inland Harbour Water Sports Association, which only came into operation in 2011/2012. The floating dock with water and electricity as well as an attractive clubhouse with a lounge, kitchen, sunny terrace and proper sanitary facilities was built to compensate for three former club harbours in the Neuland nature reserve on the Süderelbe, which had to be abandoned due to nature conservation. It is around 1.5 kilometres to Harburg's old town with its colourful pub scene around the Lämmertwiete. On the way there, the ambience alternates between a listed half-timbered ensemble (Schloßstraße) and post-modern architecture (Schellerdamm). Stark contrasts are the hallmark of Harburg's inland harbour anyway.
Compared to the hustle and bustle and swell on the Norderelbe, the Süderelbe is a cosy little river. Leaving the harbour lock, we follow it downstream, naturally with the tidal current running out, the huge boilers of refineries on either side. Above the Katwyk Bridge, the new Moorburg coal-fired power station on the port side. And then: containers! First the Altenwerder terminal, then Waltershof. In between, the spectacular Köhlbrand Bridge, which is often referred to as Hamburg's landmark. Köhlbrand is also the name of the mouth of the Süderelbe into the Norderelbe, which are reunited at Elbe kilometre 626.
Below the Lotsenhaus (Elbe km 629 LU) at the latest, the swell caused by the hustle and bustle of the ships calms down and the trip on the Elbe can become really cosy (in good weather). The fantastic backdrop of the upmarket Elbe suburb of Blankenese (Elbe km 633 to 635) is a perfect accompaniment.
A little later, we pass "Willkomm Höft", the popular ship welcoming facility at Schulauer Fährhaus (Elbe-km 641.2 RU, www.schulauer-faehrhaus.de). "Steuermann lass die Wacht": the famous bars from Richard Wagner's Flying Dutchman can only be heard if you pass Willkomm Höft at the same time as a seagoing vessel of at least 1000 GT. If you want to experience several welcomes in full (with flag parade and national anthem), you should take a little time on the terrace of the Schulauer Fährhaus. You can do this by mooring in Hamburg's marina (Elbe km 642.8 RU) and walking or cycling the almost two kilometres to the ferry house.
With 2000 berths in the water and 750 on land, Hamburg's marina is the largest pleasure craft harbour in Germany (www.hamburger-yachthafen.de). However, it is not the people of Hamburg who can claim this superlative for themselves, but the town of Wedel in Schleswig-Holstein. Hamburg because the Hamburger Yachthafen-Gemeinschaft is the operator of this gigantic boat parking area. It goes without saying that a harbour like this, which guarantees a water depth of 2.1 m even at low tide, offers a complete all-round service for boats and crew, including WLAN, a petrol station and catering. "Tonne 122" - located in front of the two harbour entrances - gives its name to the harbour restaurant, which particularly impresses me with its delicious fish dishes.
Altländer Yachtzentrum: That sounds tempting and that's why we want to make a stopover there. Just five kilometres down the Elbe from Wedel, the jetty is located on the southern bank of the Lühesander Süderelbe, well hidden (and protected) by the large Elbe island of Lühesand and the small "Möwen- oder Pionierinsel", which is not named on the nautical chart. Mooring is alongside the solid, 400 m long aluminium floating jetty. There are water and electricity connections. According to the operator, the water depth at the jetty is between 0.6 and 2.5 metres at low tide. Showers and toilets are located in a building at the jetty companionway (numerical code). Local skippers praise the boatyard's comprehensive boat and repair service. Otherwise, the industrial park is not very interesting for visitors. However, it is an ideal starting point for walks or cycle tours along the Elbe dyke or into the Alte Land (Grünendeich, Steinkirchen, Lühe).
Tidal navigation is the order of the day before we set off for Stade. The city harbour can be easily reached via the Schwinge with a draught of 1 m up to two hours before and from two hours after low water. So we have to plan our start time for the eleven-kilometre trip accordingly. The 160 m long guest jetty of the city harbour is on the port side and, according to harbour master Joachim Schönwälder, is not dry at the moment. Modern residential and office buildings, including the family entertainment centre with cinema and restaurant, are located on the shore above.
But it gets really colourful and beautiful on the other side of the harbour towards the old town, which we reach via the Salztorschleuse lock and the Salzstraße with the historic pedal crane at the old fish market. Beautiful half-timbered houses on both sides of the Old Harbour. It's just a shame that the extensive restoration of the historic Hudebrücke bridge at the fish market between "Wasser West" and "Wasser Ost" is currently spoiling the romance a little. Countless cafés and pubs make the old town a popular destination. On nice weekends, the air really burns here.
It's around 20 kilometres along the Elbe from Stadersand to Glückstadt. It goes without saying that we'll tackle this with the water running out, so we'll start in Stade an hour after high water at the earliest. Apart from that, we don't have to calculate much this time, because the outer harbour of Glückstadt on the eastern bank of the Glückstadter Nebenelbe can be called at any water level (regardless of the tide). It would be different if we wanted to enter the inner harbour, which is only accessible via the Glückstadt barrage. And this usually only opens once a day from two hours before high tide to high tide. For exact opening times, see www.stadtwerke-glueckstadt.de
In the outer harbour, you can moor comfortably in the ups and downs of the tides on floating jetties (water and electricity) with side jetties. However, if these are occupied (which can happen at weekends), you have to moor in front of the sheet pile wall on the north bank (without service and possibly in a packet). It is then much better to moor in the picturesque ambience of the inland harbour. The harbour master's office and sanitary facilities can be found on the north bank of the inland harbour in the restaurant "Zur Alten Mühle" next to the boxes of the Glückstadt Sailing Association (300 m from the outer harbour). Boat and repair services are offered by the Glückstadt boatyard above the lock on the south bank of the inland harbour (www.yachtwerft-glueckstadt.de)
Apart from a few unsuccessful "modernisations" in the 1960s and 1970s, Glückstadt's historic old town has been largely preserved. This alone makes a visit worthwhile. The most important bait, however, is a tasty "silver bullet": the "Glückstädter Matjes". The "Glückstadt Matjes Weeks" have been dedicated to this widely praised speciality since 1968. They begin every year on the second Thursday in June and keep the town in a state of emergency for four days.
When the Glückstädter Nebenelbe leads us back to the Elbe fairway north of the island of Rhinplate at the mouth of the Störmündung, the river has become a mighty stream. There are almost two nautical miles between the dykes and when the wind blows from the west as the water runs out, i.e. when the wind is against the current, the Elbe becomes a hefty "piece of sea" that motorboat drivers are better off avoiding from 4 Beaufort at the latest.
But we are lucky: a breeze from the NNW accompanies us from Glückstadt to Brunsbüttel. We need just under 1.5 hours for this 25-kilometre passage, which is planned so that we arrive at the prickly entrance to the old harbour a good two hours before low tide. As we have registered with the harbour master of the Brunsbüttel Sailing Association, the agreed guest berth on a side jetty is free. Water and electricity at the jetty. The inner part of the harbour is dry. The sanitary facilities are around 200 metres away behind the dyke. Nearest supermarket: Kaufhausstraße, 700 m.
Brunsbüttel is not an exciting little town, but offers a special spectacle with the locks to the Kiel Canal: seagoing vessels can be admired up close from the viewing platform in the lock area. Distance from the Old Harbour around 1.5 km. This excursion can easily be combined with a stroll through the town.
Once again, we only have a short stage ahead of us: it's around 15 kilometres along the Elbe to Otterndorf. We leave Brunsbüttel around two hours after high tide, cross the Elbe between buoys "58 a/NOK2" and "57" and, always sailing outside the buoy line, reach the prickly entrance to Otterndorf town harbour around three hours before low tide. This gives us enough space under the keel to moor to starboard at the guest jetty without any problems. At low tide, approaching this jetty can end in soft mud with a draught of just one metre.
The harbour is nestled in the green foreland of the dyke in the Medem estuary. At the eastern edge of the harbour is the Otterndorf lock, which leads into the Elbe-Weser shipping lane and thus opens the way to Bremerhaven. The harbour master has his office in a container above the jetty access. The sanitary facilities are located behind the dyke in the "Seglertreff", a mixture of bistro and kiosk. www.seglertreff-otterndorf.de
It is around two kilometres to Otterndorf, which is well worth a visit. If you don't have an on-board bike and don't want to walk this distance, you can take the hourly "Strand-Express" directly from the harbour to the historic town hall.
"Old love never rusts", as the saying goes. In Cuxhaven, the proof is in the pudding. This is where the "Alte Liebe" is located, a two-storey wooden viewing platform that can rot but cannot rust. The town at the mouth of the river is the final stop of our cruise on the Lower Elbe. The water level doesn't matter here, as all harbours are tide-independent and accessible at any hour. Four marinas offer guest berths: Motorboot-Club Cuxhaven (www.mc-cux.de) and City Marina Cuxhaven (www.citymarina.de, behind the bascule bridge, after access via the outer harbour and Alter Hafen, south of Alte Liebe). The bridge opens when required. Request via VHF channel 69.
The Cuxhaven Sailing Association (www.svc-cux.de) has its approach directly north of Alte Liebe and south of the Seebäderbrücke. The tank container on the southern tip of the Seebäderbrücke is a prominent approach. Diesel can be bunkered here. The Cuxhaven yacht club with its jetty in the ferry harbour is located to the north of the Seebäderbrücke.
We opt for a harbour that lives up to its name: the City Marina, which is really "right in the middle" and yet quiet. Just a few steps across Deichstraße and you are in the "Lotsenviertel", a pleasantly spruced-up neighbourhood with exquisite specialist shops, as well as pubs and restaurants (www.lotsenvierel.de). We found what we were looking for with delicious Italian cuisine at "Il Borgo" (Schillerstraße 5).
If you walk towards the bascule bridge, you will quickly reach the old fishing harbour. In the preserved fish halls III to VI along Präsident-Herwig-Straße, the names of the restaurants still speak for themselves: "Altes Fischkontor", "Fischbörse", "Seeteufel". The finest fresh fish is guaranteed. And the "Alte Liebe" is also only 600 metres away from the marina.
Let's take our leave with a view of the Elbe from Alte Liebe, which merges with the North Sea one nautical mile further north at the unmistakable Kugelbake. And the semaphore at Alte Liebe still shows skippers leaving the harbour today which direction and how strong the wind is blowing at Borkum and Helgoland.
